Time for Tons

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loco CJ has a front D60 welded with NO hydro.    We just bumped up the power steering pump pressure.    He used to drive it on the road.

[Wingman]

Seems like you have time to order the new locker and get it put in... 

[Harrison]

Thanks Gif, good info. A friend made the same suggestion about boosting the power steering pressure. I think that's what I'm going to do.

Mark... I do have time but this and DB3 have been rather financially abusive in the last few weeks and I still need to get to VA and back! That $350-400 would be coming out of my oh shit fund. I'd rather just weld it for now if it will work.

[Wingman]

there is no more permanent solution than a temporary fix

 

[rejeep]

I do have time but this and DB3

you have an aston martin?

[mr.mindless]

Wrong crowd

Dump bus 3

They can be almost as expensive as an Aston though!

[Harrison]

I'd still rather have a DB than an Aston!!!

[Harrison]

Spooled front done. Get some more lift/bumpstop in the rear and the rest is cake.

As far as boosting steering power steering, I read that drilling out the orifice sends more volume, shimming puts more pressure on the relief valve spring and increases pressure. Seems that I'd be looking for pressure more than volume?

[Harrison]

http://comancheclub.com/topic/6649-ps-pump-modification/

Looks like I can skip the drilling out part and get either the #4 or 3mm washer to put inside the regulator under the spring.

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http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/708701-best-power-steering-pump-modifications-pressure-flow.html


yes, you want pressure.

[M4wdFab]

what did you do to that locker?


is that a lockright?



probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims? 

[Harrison]

what did you do to that locker?


is that a lockright?



probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims? 

It is a No-Slip,  supposed to be a quieter and smoother version of a Lockright.

Spec is .140-.170. I'm at .160

I unmeshed both side gears. Held the driver hub while spinning the driveshaft. Pass side teeth would lock right up, drivers side just glide over each other. If I spin the driveshaft in reverse, they lock right up. That's pretty consistent with what I experienced wheeling Sunday. Staying locked after that was iffy, sometimes resulted in unlocking with banging noises.

What would cause that cam gear to not align the teeth? Worn teeth? Worn center pin? Weak springs? It's not like they even tried to lock, just glided over each other like they weren't aligning. Meh

Seriously considering wedging a piece of metal in between the cam gears and welding in place in such a manner that would be easy to remove later... When I buy a new locker. If steering blows cruising around, rock unlocked hubs until I get on the trail.

[M4wdFab]

how did the cross pin look?  was there 4 marks two on each side but opposing? 



when you check them, the DS should be locked, and do the "spin test"  hold one wheel back, turn the other forward, switch and repeat all 4 directions. 

[Harrison]

The crosspin did not show any visible wear. Did the spin test before wheeling on Sunday, passed without issue. The test I did was to simulate driveshaft spinning with resistance on the driver's tire... and it showed the same results I experienced Sunday with teeth not engaging.

[Harrison]

#4 washer and orifice drilled to 5/32 blows the end off the steering box.

Awesome