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97 Dodge Ram 2500, AKA Shitty Dodge

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TrailTamer:
I call my truck "shitty dodge"

bought with 199k miles I believe 3 years ago.

now have 230k miles (I had a 94 escort manual to DD with before I came to Rochester for RIT)

I originally bought it to be used as tow rig for my towing needs. Right now I don't really have anything to tow with right now. So it's mainly my DD when the weather's bad or far distance. I ride my bicycle to school whenever I can.

I am running WMO as W85(Waste Motor Oil) in the 12v Cummins. Most alternative fuel user will call it as W85, in meaning of 85% waste oil to 15% RUG (Regular Unleaded Gasoline), if you wonder what it means.

I has been running on WMO for approximately 7k miles now. During that 7k miles I had around three tanks of straight D2 (didn't bring enough WMO with me on one of my road trip). Clogged a fuel filter once. Harder to start when cold and require pedal to fire but will always starts. Will not idle on its own when cold as well so I installed a "pull and turn to lock" kind of cable from NAPA, attached to the pedal for the cold start and driving so I don't need to drive with both of my feet.

I built my filtering set-up to process waste oil into usable fuel for my truck in my garage. I blend my waste oil with 15% RUG to settle out majority of dirt/sludges and water then I pump it through a set of motor oil filters, into centrifuging barrel, using pabiodiesel 55 GPH (I wish I have gone with something bigger lol).

more on that later when I get pics of it.

I built the trans last year. I pulled it out at 210k miles, IIRC, to rebuild/upgrade. The trans looked original but EVERYTHING inside looks FANTASTIC for this mileage. ABSOLUTELY no problem spotted anywhere.  I did the clutch pack upgrade (i used big blue's step by step to do this on compd). I put in billet accumulator piston, second gear servo, and all other small goodies. I bought my $300 single billet disk tq converter locally in chicago, no problem with it whatsoever. sadly no billet input shaft, but that's in the plan in future, with other more goodies to hold up for more power, or 6 speed manual swap. The valve body has been upgraded too. this trans work great, no slipping. I'm running 50% DIII, 50% tractor hydraulic fluid.

The engine are relatively stock, other than turned up pump. The pump have advanced timing to ~16*, gauges (pyro, trans, boost, and fuel pressure), Mack plug, AFC housing mods, and a fuel plate grinded into a 100 profile. If I remove the fuel plate, my truck can make dang near 50 psi of boost at WOT, but of course EGT are pegged hardcore. I am running the 100 fuel plate in it to limit the boost to ~35 psi boost max and no HIGH egt.

I am planning to do some upgrade to the front end in near future. I found a set of ford ball joint knuckles with the bolt-on calipers on pirate4x4 and should be here in mail soon.

I'll need to get everything else.....

-spindle
-hub
-35 spline stubs
-yukon hardcore locking hubs
-78/79 ford D60 driver side inner shaft, 35 spline
-99-04 ford D60 passenger side inner shaft, 35 spline
-an axle shaft seal of a kind for the passenger side of the pumpkin
-brakes (calipers, rotors, and pads)
-and some small pieces... as usual.

I am still not sure if I should ditch the D70U for a D80....

In the next few weeks I'll put on new flip out towing mirrors to replace my stock floppy mirrors and put on the door panels i got from mr.mindless (thanks!) and upgrade trans oil pan to goerend's unit and some kind of bigger oil cooler up front, possibly with a fan to help it to stay cool this year when I go on the sands again in silver lake. last year my truck's trans temp rose to around 275'ish IIRC  :o





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TrailTamer:
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Harrison:
Hmm, if yours is "Shitty Dodge", Idk what mine should have been called haha

Nice rig. I'll definitely be interested in seeing the centrifuge setup. I'm starting with sock filters (today actually) and running 30% to see how it does, 3 tanks of D2 in 7k miles is impressive!

KingtheZJ:
complete BJ D60s have been had recently for $300. So keep them in mind when piecing together the spindles/hubs etc.

see discussion here about the Yukon blem shafts which are marketed as USA standard. Skip to post 44 for pics with the joints installed.
http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?topic=769.0
Rock auto sell the 35spline USA Standard 4340 stubs for $60 each ($138 shipped/pair). check the pirate vender i linked in the first post of that other thread.

Is the 78/79 ford D60 driver side inner shaft commonly used for the CAD delete? I have one you can have. Its a stock neckdown shaft. Yukon Hardcore Lockouts are the way to go. They are $270 shipped from a vender on pirate (afaik, thats the cheapest).

Nick:
Hi ho to another alternate fuel Cummins guy!

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