M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on May 14, 2012, 10:27:09 PM
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Do we go with position A...
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...or position B?
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#2?
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I'm leaning towards B. There's no useful horizontal space between box and tank - they'll probably rub actually; I should remember to put a piece of rubber between - so I gain nothing useful there. I think it looks a little better, and gains me just a smidge more trailer turning clearance. That said if the shit hits the fan it may be smarter to have a trailer tongue crunch a toolbox than a fuel tank. That's the only down side I can think of.
I don't think that 10" rearward move will have much if any impact on maneuvering whether it's the full bed rail width of the toolbox or the 60" width of the tank that is rearmost.
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Another pro to B is no need to poke more holes for toolbox mounting, and no uncovered holes from pervious mounting.
I never remove the toolbox for large loads anyway, so it really matters not that it would work out better tank-only in A.
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Reference:
need one o' dese
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cim-Tek-60001-Fuel-Tank-Fill-Cap-Lockable-Prevent-2-NPT-/110767802016#ht_500wt_1032
and one o' dese
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200315501_200315501
and something like this for my depth tank would be the schizzle, or even better if it was electric and I could have in-cab.
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Transfer-Flow-070-GA-32538-Tank-Mounted-Fuel-Gauge-Camper-Trailer-RV_p_8312.html
this is my tank, by the way.
http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/89-552-fuel-transfer-tanks/fuel-transfer-tank-l-shaped-105-gal-684977.aspx
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Found a good price on the rds tank kit, 63 and change shipped from Union Hydro. Just made a bung, and TSC has the fillers for a dollar cheaper than anyone online sells them, so I think I'll make a hardware and filler neck run.
now need to drill and weld the tank, mount it, and plumb it when stuff gets here.
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I would go A.
Just for the thought that if you had to hook up to Smikes or Ryan's trailer, you could remove he tool box for more clearance when turning. Just my 2 cents.
I would love a setup like that but with the camper I can't have anything stick above the bed.
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Hmm, that's a good point. I'm sure Smike's would be no problem, but Ryans's or Gif's could potentially be - those necks are squarely constructed with low front corners.
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are you just looking for more amounts of fuel to lose when you blow another set of lines?
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nonono, we're planning on that being an IF now not a WHEN
Hate NEEDING to stop for fuel twice a day, and also looking to be able to buy cheap fuel in NC or NJ or OH.
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I wish I had your bladder
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catheter
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wouldn't you rather spend 3.79 for 120 gallons in the morning, stop every 3-4 hours to stretch or nap or beat your meat or eat WaHo as you desire, than pay 3.79 in the morning for 30 gallons, then $4 for 30 gallons and be stuck with McD's because that's what's there, then $4.40 for another 20 gallons because you filled up when you had to stop to offload the 3 big gulp sweet teas anyway, and get home with an empty tank again?
I guess if you've never driven something with a 700+ mile range you may not have the concept down of how it works. I do from billy big riggin with my dad, and from long haulin' in the Jetta. of course the big truck experience was a bit different, since dad's prostate has to be about the size of a bowling ball and any 8 month pregnant woman would have twice the range he does after his morning coffee ;D
but still it's nice to stop because you want to, where you want to - not because you can go no further and NEED to wherever you may land.
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I wish I had your bladder
but yeah you probably do anyway. I can have the morning big gulp coffee and outlast my 34 gallon tank, sometimes.
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http://www.upr.com/Racing-Catheter-p613.html
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that would be FAR from the worst idea in the world for RCQ.
The thought actually crossed my mind during the last race that it would really take some practice to intentionally piss myself.
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i had to pee so bad second lap
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And not the last 2? Lol
I don't have time to read that novel you wrote, I'm just saying I have to pee a lot and it blows for trips haha
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i get pee shy..... i could never do it with you sitting shotgun
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I like rolling out with 70 gallons of veggy in the bed hell of a lot cheaper than 3.79
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we were stopped at a bottle neck so we both got out and pee'd ha, had pleanty of time to get belted back up before we were able to get through.
there was probably 3 trucks on their lid in our way.
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that was roll plus broken wheel and then roll into rollover with recovery wasn't it? what a clusterfuck.
that trail should be called CF
or maybe CG - double meaning for center of gravity and one past CF
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I like rolling out with 70 gallons of veggy in the bed hell of a lot cheaper than 3.79
good for that too. I've been reading up on results of folks running WMO and I like what I'm reading...
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WMO baby!
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filler doohickey will be here tomorrow. Took them near a week to ship it, but $65 shipped instead of $80 plus shipping from anywhere else I can survive.
Haven't touched the tank aside from taking it back out.
I had another thought on position. If I wrap a hauler bed around it later, I'm going to want the tall part against the cab. and if I put the fitting over the existing stack hole it might be right against the stock fuel tank when flipped around; I need to look at that.
and think harder about building that bed before the right side of mine vacates :)
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WE have ran about 20 gallons of motor oil with no side effects. It is just hard to come by the quantity that you need for a truck
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i just dumped 8 gallons of it
i have some "Clean" gallons i have been keeping aside at the new shop, or there is 50 gals or so under my deck that one or two may have atf or glycol in them so you would have to filter / settle them
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All needs settling and filtering anyway, nbd...
Shops apparently usually sell it for a dollar or a bit more per gallon too, could be a cheap way to get decent quantities.
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Like used oil?
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WMO Waste Motor Oil
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I got 10 gal I've been too lazy to return if anyone wants it
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All needs settling and filtering anyway, nbd...
Shops apparently usually sell it for a dollar or a bit more per gallon too, could be a cheap way to get decent quantities.
If you can find a big shop that could almost keep up with your quantity that would be a score. The problem is a lot of them use the oil in the winter for heat. If you can find someone out there who has a connection with someone with veggy that is the way to go. A small lunch place with use about 15-30 gallons a week and if you get two lunch places you will be set. If you have to pay them a dollar a gallon or something around there it is worth it. Next time you are out by me you should swing by and take a look at me and chads contraption
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i will help load the shat under my deck that is about it
ha
lol
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Next time you are out by me you should swing by and take a look at me and chads contraption
definitely
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when is the first annual lake party!
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It is coming up soon! The water is still really cold tho
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The water in the pool is nice, we will be in this afternoon if anyone is interested.
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Bung welded in, tank mounted, toolbox remounted. Went with tank forward. If I remove the bed the aux tank doesn't need to be screwed around with.
My filler neck isn't the size it was supposed to be so it's not plumbed in. Ford and Dodge are supposed to be 1.5", GM is supposed to be 2". I'm 2". Also found that my filler neck is toting from the outside. Has a pin hole, that'll need replacing. That, along with a working spare tire winch, are on the J&J list.
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When are you heading to J and J?
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i need to go to J&J too. let me know when you are going. i'm shooting for saturday.
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I can do Saturday maybe?
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Me 4. Do they have Toyotas?
Its tooting? lol
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i might be down, maybe look for an ls pan or some petal assemblies
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I'm out for Saturday but if someone would like to shop for me I wouldn't be opposed. I may be able to do the 16th?
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Tested this tonight for the first time and it's a failure :(
I think the rollover valve isn't doing what it's supposed to since fuel started leaking out the pin hole in the filler neck - which is probably 6" above what should be the top fuel level. I shut the valve on the tank, no big deal. I only put 25 gallons in it, I'll open it again tomorrow when I'm below a quarter tank and let it all feed.
Maybe there was schmutz in the bottom of the tank that jammed the float ball? If it doesnt fix itself after running that 25 galthrough, I'll have to pull it apart when I get home. I'll still fill up in VA for $3.48 or so, I think gasbuddy was saying.
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This fucking valve is fucking stupid. I don't see how it can possibly seal against a head of more than an inch or two. I don't see how it can work as intended in any application.
1/8" hole or so, plastic float with a matching pin. Float is Hollow and open on the bottom, roughly 1/4" square, bit over an inch long. Steel ball at the bottom that forces it closed if upside down (it is a rollover valve after all) That's supposed to float and stop flow when level is reached. It doesn't even slow flow when submerged 6" in my testing.
In fairness, I was working on the ground and the tank has 50-60 gallons in it, so it has probably 30-40" of head on it - but it didn't work with only 25 gallons in the tank right off the bat. Way less than I'd ask of it, and probably only 8-10" of head. I gave it a second chance to fail today with a full aux tank and it GUSHED out when level was reached.
Waste of $60. Glad I didn't spend $80+ at MSRP.
So I need another solution. Preferably automatic and mechanical as this was intended. I don't want to have to have a damn manual switch and watch the fuel gauge like I did for 2 hours today while driving.
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i think flipping a switch when the dash gage is on E is really not that big of a deal lol
your funny
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On E isn't the issue. Missing it when it's on F is the issue. Duh
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duh?
such i pile i dont even have to produce a come back to that
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With a sealed gasoline application (locking) cap, and a good non-rusted out filler neck, I don't see why I couldn't just free flow into the main tank and let the aux tank do the breathing?
Only down side is not being able to fill just the main tank, and needing to swap back to a vented cap to run with the aux tank shut off
Lack of correct venting gets in the way of this, but i was reading that Some guys run a sediment bowl and fuel filter between the aux tank and the main. Plugging is easily diagnosed when the main tank doesn't fill. Seems like an easy way to never deal with the retarded stock filter again, and there's a TON of room under the bed there opposite the stock tank with the exhaust not being there.
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Oh fuck off. You're being dumb.
If its depending on an electric valve that's manually turned on and off with no blinking flashing "you're dumb" light, being on the phone or hungry or lost or whatever at the wrong time leads to an overflown tank, wasted fuel, diesel soaked trailer, etc. I'm not going to design for that use case, thanks.
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but you have so much experience with diesel fuel soaked trailers and loads haha
no love
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And it's not something I care to repeat!
knew that was coming. deserved.
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With a sealed gasoline application (locking) cap, and a good non-rusted out filler neck, I don't see why I couldn't just free flow into the main tank and let the aux tank do the breathing?
doesnt the main tank need to breathe?
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it would do so through the aux tank, as long as that valve was never closed.
If it made it on the truck from Syr this morning, I'll have a new filler neck today and can think about this with parts in hand.
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if you didnt put one yet id put in a manual shutoff valve, so when gas cap and truck tank start to leak you can shut off the pressure from the aux tank if needed.
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already there, otherwise it would all have dumped out when the float didn't do its job.
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I may be speaking too soon, but It appears that this pup just needs more head on the outflow side to seal up.
I had good enough timing to watch fuel creep up the filler neck. Right when it reached the vent line in the filler neck it slowly came to a halt.
That's about a foot above the float, I only was able to give it 4-6" under testing last night. The pin hole in the old filler was an inch lower than this.
It hasn't moved in 15 minutes now.
Tentative hooray?
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This thread sucks!!!!!
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I know
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No bueno.
It held at that level for an hour or more. Then decided to rise again. The cap held without leaks, but half an hour later the big port on top of the tank was leaking, where the draw and return lines attach and sender lives. Nonspecific, I caught it after it was dripping and it was just all wet.
So close.
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Is that a flesh light?
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No. This is fucking me - I'm no expert, but i'm pretty sure a flesh light works the other way 'round.
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two fuel pumps i have at the shop, either would have worked with a toggle switch, haha
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what part of "I have no interest in a switch that can be forgotten and left on to overfill the tank" don't you understand? Is that a difficult concept? do I have to paint you a picture? I can go get some crayons and we can draw it out if it'll help you :flipoff2:
sadly, I spoke with RDS support and my initial thoughts on this thing are right, it may as well just be a tee into the damn line. Don't open the fuel cap when both tanks are full; extend or cap off vent lines, etc....
so to get what I want, I need to figure out what leaks on the main hole in the tank. The fittings there are rusty and I wouldn't mind replacing the whole unit there as PM anyway - but it's not listed on Rock so I bet it's a dealer$hip part. And I definitely have to drop the tank or lift the bed to change it.
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i think is comical you are going through such an elaborate cluster to complete such a simple task, but i guess what else would i expect from the dumpbus saga. bitching this much about such a simple task, eeek
seriously, what about doing it electrically automatically? does the oem fuel gage function properly with some type of resistance sweep? could you have like 2 resistors, a cap, and other penny cost majic to drive fet to pull a fuel pump relay on and off automatically when a threshold is met on the main tank. could have a manual over ride switch also.
i guess that would not allow you to know your big tank is empty and or run a transfer pump dry.
thought: same thing with solenoid valve electric or air valve that would not run dry
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an electronic shutoff wouldn't have the 'run dry' problem. I don't know enough magic to make something that the fuel gauge would govern, but it does work accurately. something that would supply power to an electronic shutoff with key on, and fuel level at 'full' or below would work well (gauge pins full at about two needle widths above full)
and come to think of it I bet a pump with 30" of head on it would probably flow some and not fix this "simple" problem - but IDK about that.
I found a part number for my tank module, going to see if it's still good and still available. With the rusted out filler neck I imagine the rusty lines on the in tank module are getting kinda thin too. I imagine if I get that replaced, the problem will go away. Or can at least be fixed while swapping it.
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have you tried moving the check valve floaty thing lower than the top of the tank to give it more force to shut off? sure orientation is correct? (assuming i under stand what you have, if not disregard)
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Orientation is correct. No easy way to move it lower since its tees into the filler neck.
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Why can't you get a valve that when you flip the switch it r e routes the return line to which ever tank you have on
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Is that what the problem is? I don't have the patients to read novel posts so I am using context clues from the first sentence.
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Admittedly I didn't read half of this..
But why not just gravity feel the aux (higher tank) to the main (lower) tank...
You can plumb it with brake line and just let it flow...
You would fill the main tank till auto shut off then move the nozzle to the aux tank...
Only one fuel gauge required....
Am I missing something?
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Gravity feed is what I'm doing. Followed up by chasing leaks since the dodad that is supposed to stop flow at "full" isn't. It's stuffing the tank hard and finding all leaks.
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Yep lol
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Why complicate it....
Who needs a do dad... Just plumb and flow...
Your urologist can prescribe you something for that...
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Throw a pollak valve in there and be done with it
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Gravity feed what is this a lawn mower fawwwwkkk
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i need pics to properly ridicule this thread
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Drip drip drip
See if your boys can dig up anything for a fuel tank module for my 97. Diesel specific, not just the fuel level sending unit, and no pump. I think it's dealer only. $125ish retail?
Top looks like so: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/384944-fuel-leak-2.html#post4408580
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You have problems with everything you try to do. Your life sounds hard. ;D
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True story
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Are you going somewhere this weekend?
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VA Beach run instead of wheeling.
Then still have one more VA run and an Ohio run. NY stuff done last night and tonight.
Aux tank will probably be empty tonight.
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Got room?
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/3086435881.html
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needs a head gasket means its over priced scrap?
how is one of your legs going to fit in that hog ryan?
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I have had 2 of those in the past, great little cars.
Yea, I would not pay $1000 for it.
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yeah I do
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I wish I had 8 good tires and wheels. I could do tonight and this weekend with the lowboy. Like that trailer better... Hot fucking day to swap tires :(
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or you could have made some type of plans before the day before i am leaving and i could have helped you so that i could have made 300$ this weekend...
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I thought you'd already settled on your trailer as of a week+ ago. You'd crossed my mind, but I really wasn't considering you a factor at all.
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Thought i posted twice looking for a decision. had to back out of commitments because of uncertainty. If TSC had a coupler in stock i would have gotten one. knew with plans made this week id have no time for bs.
a buggy, tj or XJ and a little tracker would have fit nice, if my 19.5's fit on the trailer.
no big deal, ill appreciate my shade and shower this weekend.
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sure would have. motor would have been a challenge. I swore you gave up on it last week. I didn't know my returns for sure until today anyway, and I did need the wedge last night. woulda been a toughish schedule
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In all fairness it's Romano mazdas fault for fucking it up..
2 cars un available that have been paid for already...
Turned a three car trip to a 2 this weekend...
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Would have been another trip down anyway for that last car if I'm understanding everything right. ciest la vie I guess.
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No leaks since taking apart my fuel cap on Friday. I still don't 100% trust it but at least it's looking promising.
Right now the cap is stock; has a weak spring to let things in and a strong spring to let things out. Seals well. The vent line is somewhat poorly plugged. It doesn't have too strong of a spring.
I could plumb that one into the top of the aux tank (and seal the vents on the main tank fuel cap), or just permanently plug the vent line... So far no need to screw around more though, which is good.