M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on December 04, 2023, 11:19:44 PM
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Landed in my lap, title will be here tomorrow. Been parked for 4-6 months.
2009, AWD, 132,000.
Has some water to the interior issues, probably sunroof drains. Water in the trunk too, maybe brake light? Minor rust at fender edges. Haven’t had it in the air yet. Told it has weeping transmission lines which is why it was parked and left behind in a move. I’m sure that means some other things are crunchy too.
Needs a battery. May have some wheel bearing issues or the tires are out of balance/round but other than a rumble at 45+ it did a quick drive just fine. Brakes feel fine. Has a serpentine squeak.
Probably end up Sarah’s daily if I don’t fall in love with it. I should do the Allroad clutch so I have its peer.
Who could really love a gold caddy though?
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AWD, nice score if you can get it running good.
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trickle charge brought a battery that fits back to life. I think the one that was in it didn't come back but another that came with it did.
oil leak was an o-ring below the o-ring land on the filter cap. was at the bottom of the threads instead.
registering it tomorrow. needs a few things, but should be a good winter drivable rig to keep the truck and jeep out of the salt. will get an order going for all the belt accessory things in the fleet that need doing, that'll be a lot of things. All on this and all on the Z4, they both run 2 serpentine belts with tensioners.
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Did 40ish miles on this today. It’s very GM: serviceable transportation, drives… fine. Why would anyone have spent like 40k on this 15 years ago? It’s not THAT quiet and smooth.
Proper tire inflation got the rumble taken care of. Computer says it’s doing 19mpg.
Driver door lock actuator is dead. That and the belt squeak is it so far, other than cleanup and water leaks. Trunk is WET.
Bet this goes for 5 before the jeep does.
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MIL popped
Code P0008 - engine position system performance bank 1
I heard something like a carrier bearing or rear diff bushing too, if I get on it.
Found maintenance paperwork from the last 20,000 miles. Couple oil changes, MAF in response to a code, three wheel bearings - fronts for rumble at speed and a rear for ABS tone ring rust, and four new tires 10k ago.
Evap and egr monitors not yet set. Clearing codes and will see if that p0008 comes back.
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Bit of reading, and that's a timing chain issue.
I did hear a rattle at idle over the belt squeaks, reasonably confirmed. Apparently chains went early in the early 3.6. Mulling over including the 'extras' in that job of the cam phasers and oil pump. Probably worth it for the extra couple hundred bucks diving deep into it either at resale or being known good for another 100k if it stays around. god knows I never manage to get rid of anything
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Crunchyyyy
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231230/b2badf5c00e533833e9041c695acc3f6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231230/525105594d619d0d0070a346d369ca76.jpg)
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Took a bit to bleed the cooling system right but I think everything is all set. Driveshaft carrier bearing was annoying, had to take apart a CV driveshaft. exhaust had definitely been dropped recently, all fresh hardware and took no effort to drop. I need to put a proper clamp on the driveshaft sometime, I didn’t have a large enough single use clamp in stock and the hose clamp I had to use can be felt at about 50mph.
No lights lit after a couple cycles and 8 miles. Hopefully I can get monitors set and get it stickered.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240101/063b1d271bc9868d8e76f7061656e055.jpg)
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4 warmup cycles and still hasn't passed catalyst monitor, couple key cycles since putting 5/8 tank of fuel in it and evap hasn't set ready yet either.
no codes or pending codes though, so hopefully will be good to inspect in another couple drive cycles...
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Round trip commute plus a lunch trip, same state. Evap and catalyst unset, no codes.
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Catalyst finally passed. Evap not but inspection ready. No codes or pending. Should get a sticker this week. With Sarah’s starter out, it’s in commuter duty so has to wait on vw part to sit for sticker. Lame…
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stick'd
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nooice!
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I need to put a proper clamp on the driveshaft sometime, I didn’t have a large enough single use clamp in stock and the hose clamp I had to use can be felt at about 50mph.
Put it up in the air when I got home with it. I got some stainless clamps and tool, but it's going to be really hard to get into the space next to the bearing. I may need to make a narrower nose to put on the tool for space, hope I don't waste a bunch of bands
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wasted one band. got it done without dropping anything. Hopefully good!
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Do you ever wonder how people live with just 1 newer car that only needs oil changes and gas? ;D
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I do wonder how that is...
The thread for that discussion happens to be Sarah's TDI. That'll be out of daily production real soon, if not already. It's a source of friction at the moment.
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This thing is fuel stinking up the garage.
No gas drip visible anywhere underneath.
Has to be weeping somewhere and leaving a wet spot somewhere. An oil pan of gasoline smells about as much as this does. It can’t be an evap leak unless something is putting gas into the charcoal canister and it runs a purge on shutdown.
It’s always gotta be something.
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Found the drip. Rotten steel fuel lines up against side of tank. Broke in more places at clamps as I touched them.
Replaced with rubber 50psi working pressure fuel injection line from the plastic at the tank to up front where the rust stopped.
Should probably do the trans cooler lines that look equally crunchy, and send this thing. Domestics suck. Aluminized steel fuel lines? Cmon. At least the brake lines still look good. Hopefully they aren’t about to fall apart right at the nuts like they always seem to.
Smike, do you have male to nipple for these quick connects when you’re re plumbing things? I keep the females in stock but I ended up having to just cut these off and clamp over the nylon line. Extremely tight fit and pushed over far enough to double clamp so I’m comfortable with it but unhappy I had to do that. Just didn’t have the right stuff in stock or leftovers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240208/fe2ff1a8e79604e58a3306950bc9b3ea.jpg)
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i dont think i have any male ones that would be use full. usually i just replace the whole line tank to fuel rail with two new females.
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I'd have had to drop the fuel tank to do that on this one.
Layout is a short plastic line from fuel pump ending with a female to the rotten steel line with a male, the rotten steel runs all the way forward and up the inner fender where it's swaged to a flex line that runs to the engine, and an AC-type disconnect that I couldn't take apart when I was doing the timing chains. I ended up laying the fuel rails off to the passenger side using the flex of that line. It wasn't an exact size match to AC lines and my AC disconnect tool wouldn't quite get it.