M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2012, 11:43:44 AM
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First things first: see if it'll run.
- get hood open (stiff latch, don't want to break the release handle like Red's is)
- check oil
- borrow a battery and replace neg clamp or cable
- gravity feed carb from pop bottle of clean fuel
- capture fuel pump output in another bottle to see what it looks like
sound like a plan? first step will be the hardest, I regretted latching the hood as soon as I did it.
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how do you know its white? :P
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door jams, behind the front bumper...
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haha
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your names suck
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all right I'll stick with saint michael then, be that way.
someone on the nest decided white is 'swamp thing' - I think I can live with that.
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1st
pull plugs and clean.. dont attempt a start without doing this..
squirt some oil in cyl via the spark plug hole
used starting fluid.. not gas to try and kick over the first time..
if your really going to get serious prime the oil pump via a drill (just pull the distrib)
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It's already been turned over recently by others who looked at it and tried to get it to start, but they never let it draw clean known good gas, just flooded it by pouring gas down the throat.
thanks though, good things to remember and check
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Took lunch and came home. 45 minutes to open the hood (stif cable, latch is free...) 2 minutes to put in borrowed Aveo battery and put on neg clamp, fired right up on starting fluid. I disconnected the fuel line before the filter, gas is brown but smells barely passable.
Fuel gauge is on E. no clue if it works.
Has oil has coolant...
Best way to drain gas? Wish I had an electric fuel pump sitting around.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898a86-4944-5fb4.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898a86-4951-67ae.jpg)
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I had someone contact me about a 4.2 for a YJ, would that fit? Interested in taking it out?
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Took lunch and came home. 45 minutes to open the hood (stif cable, latch is free...) 2 minutes to put in borrowed Aveo battery and put on neg clamp, fired right up on starting fluid. I disconnected the fuel line before the filter, gas is brown but smells barely passable.
Fuel gauge is on E. no clue if it works.
Has oil has coolant...
Best way to drain gas? Wish I had an electric fuel pump sitting around.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898a86-4944-5fb4.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898a86-4951-67ae.jpg)
Harbor freight fuel syphoning pump?
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didn't we make something to pressurize the dump bus tank with the air gun? just put a hose on to it in to a bucket and a couple psi on the filler neck?
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Same 4.2 as a YJ..
Im willing to bet its got a bad head
Easiest way to drain tank is drill a hole in the bottom of it...
Or...
Dump 5-10 gallons of good gas in the sucker and run it till it mixes...
Brown gas is more likely due to rust sediment in the tank than it turning to varnish...
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i think "was white" is the best name ever
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I got a 4000 psi pressure washer... Could make it "bare metal"
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chips tan XJ looked about that bad, i bet it will clean up
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Most of it will clean up w water pressure. Some will require some scrubbing. The chrome is pitted in places but overall once washed I bet it'll look not bad.
I kinda want to drive it to delta sonic as-is :)
What's a running 4.2 worth to your guy, Ryan? I think making this a non-driver before I've collected any parts for a tdi or LS or any other swap is folly, and I'd need healthy motivation...
I was thinking that pressurizing the tank with the fuel pump disconnected would be the easiest route too. Not sure if there's a pickup sock/prefilter in the tank that I might be clogging via that method. I kinda doubt it but don't know.
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Oh, or I could run a line out the filler neck. Duh.
Pressure in, gas out. No need to run through the fuel system at all.
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Siphon it out. :o
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right so after you flush out all the fuel the wrong way you and fill it up with gas you find your tank is full of shit, plugged, and fresh fuel you have to take all out again. :)
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Well if the tank really is full of shit, there's only so much that would be washed out with the fuel anyway regardless of exit path
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It may need to bet dropped anyway. Either for full clean out to go diesel or just for a shot sending unit - unless it really is near empty.
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fill it and run it clean...
chevron with techron will do it
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Gas gauge works. Has a quarter tank of premium in it now and a half a can of Seafoam.
I couldn't get any old stuff out, it was near bone dry. I didn't bother to blow it through the feed line.
It will catch and fire off gas but not quite actually run on its own. Could need plugs cap and rotor. Could be timed a bit off plus bad fuel. Could be carb is gunky.
All sounds completely right when cranking but I want to hear it really run, and see that the trans is good too. I did make a note it was JUST over the full mark on oil when I started, I should check that again. Would be sad to wipe out bearings.
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change oil FWIW..
fill with 5-10 of good gas
fuel filter is right @ engine.. easy to swap..
clean plugs.. don't bother replace.. same with cap and rotor..
there not land rover engines.. but 258's will run as long as there is compression.. ive seen some that run without too..
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Smike used to have one of those (without compression) :)
I'll clean stuff... I could certainly buy weak spark as a cause with crappy gas and questionable crb tune too
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(http://smellslikescreenspirit.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/swamp_thing.jpg)
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i would consider a million cracked vacuum hoses also im sure it has a shat ton of goodness all over....
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tried to get this fired again tonight. failed again.
when I first hit it, it ran for half a second and died, would not refire. I bypassed the ECM and it will now nearly fire consistently so that's probably shot. I pulled the stepper motor off the Carter BBD carb and ran the needles all the way out as suggested, but it's possible it would need further turning from there. Tried to pull the cap to look at the rotor and can't get the more difficult rear screw to break free. Turns over a little slowly with MUCH electrical load (judging from cable heat and interior lights going almost completely out even with battery charger connected on 'start'), seems the engine doesn't turn over well/ starter issues/ something. I pulled the easy belt and the AC and alt spin freely. Would have to be water pump or PS pump if it's accessory related.
Will probably pull the other belt and check that out next and I expect to find no issues.
Haven't pulled plugs yet, that's probably after to see how it spins with no compression.
Don't want to pull a starter on a CAR that I can't drive up onto ramps, but that may be something to do too after that.
I should check the oil for fuel again, haven't done that lately.
starting fluid doesn't help it out.
Tried it again just now after a good 2 hour cool down and it was still a little sluggish cranking. It's right about at that speed where you start to worry about things not starting.
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I tried quick OMW to work, it cranked fast and damn near (again) started. I think the starter is weak and excessively prone to heat soak or has an internal issue causing overheat and poor performance.
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maybe you should try pull starting it?
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it field tested so well, after all.
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HA HA That was a valiant try on your parts.
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hiking and getting it done would have been the actual valiant thing. I'm almost pissed I didn't just do that. I didn't have a pack to put the battery in though, and 3-4 miles is a loooooong hike with 50# in your hands.
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Shifter linkage is really stiff. I think it was partly in reverse, hence very slow and worrisome cranking. Carb is probably still way out of adjustment and I should bench test or swap the starter because I question it too. Just cranks slower than it should.
Swapped door handles around and it has a functioning driver door handle now so it's much less annoying to fuck with.
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Still could not get it started. Swapped coils with Saint Michael since it was really warm... But St.M fired right up and ran smooth.
Checked firing order, matches Michael.
Compared timing, itwas about 2*BTDC and that should be golden oldies; swiveled the dizzy around while cranking... No dice. Saint Michael appears to be like 15-20* ATDC at idle but the computer is still active on that one and I didn't unplug it when I looked. It doesn't crank for long enough to see where it is when cranking.
Got the other cap screw broken loose with my big impact screwdriver; cap looks out of the box fresh. Rotor had the tinies bit of Carbon, I cleaned that up. Pulled three plugs last time and they look very fresh too.
Made sure it was all the way in park on the transmission end of the linkage as best I could manage. Seemed it was already there.
Carb definitelyhasfuel, it will spray a a little mist up out of the bore when working the accelerator linkage.
Battery cables and solenoid get very hot when cranking. Bad grounds? Weak spark and slow crank from that equal no start? I bet swapping starters would change nothing too. I'm running out of ideas though. This is seeming like de ja vu from the damn WJ.
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Does it have spark?
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Yup.
But GOOD spark? Eh... Good question I guess.
If I had no spark my timing light couldn't trigger.
Carb could be FUBAR I guess. It's not even catching though. When I had fuel unhooked after I first brought it home, it fired on ether. I guess that would be a clue.
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If it ran on ether it is fuel related
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I need to unhook the fuel line and try that again. could be clogged jet, bad needle and seat, leaking bowl or a dozen other things.
I think an LM7 5.3 would be a good fix.
I think I want to finish fixing up the CO car and sell it (seats, head liner, px fender swap, flares swap, and either swap tires or do a little more fender trimming), keep this one and drive it. or vice versa - but if major drivetrain work is happening it's going to be on the keeper.
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does LM7 stand for "Line Mountain 7 miler"
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engine code. like LS1, but not.
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yeah I knew that.. just trying to be funnay
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I caught it after I typed. I wanna keep glass :)
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Unhooked fuel, no interest in firing on ether.
Starter is fucked and cranking weakly with high draw, engine is fucked and hard to turn over, or trans is fucked and hanging in gear. No difference in cranking with belts loose so it's not a tight accessory.
Guess next step is swap starters, then once that fixes nothing, scratch my ass and buy a cheap Express van from Arie.
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FYI ,metallico is paying .11c a lb.
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silly question, are you using a shit battery and or your charger on "start" to fire this hog?
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good battery plus charger to keep it up. not tested but holds charge sitting for a week plus.
I should get it load tested and make sure it's actually good when I test the other three that need it.
Cables getting hotter than shit would indicate too much draw as opposed to not enough supply, no?
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Somebody complained about Swamp Thing. Time to make it go!
Have till 7/20.
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thats it,only one complaint
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that sucks, now someone is watching your shit, best be time to take the self elected neighborhood watch bitch lady a bowl of cookies
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What about the rest of them?
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I can store it till the winter when old lady retires indoors
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Self appointed bitch lady can eat my dick. Though apparently a couple other have made mention of the mud my trailer sometimes leaves on the road. Tom told me that last year.
I think I might make a trip to 12 corners with Swampy and the Dakota and get them registered. Out of sight doesn't work well for me, it'd just sit there forever. I should either make it run, or execute an LS/tdi swap and then sell Saint Michael since he's best of breed.
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i have a compression guage now if you need...
ls swap sounds like fun, but you have a tdi in your posession...
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you have a title for one of them? ill throw an LS motor in one for fun, you can buy it back or not haha
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Swamp thing is really actually mine, signed and notarized PA title in hand.
LS an IFS aren't easy. Wider block means adjusting the front diff mount significantly.
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ill cut a hole in the fucking hood
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"was white" is so much better of a name
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Well that's no good!
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Hahaha
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Let me know when you want to make a gravel area to park the trailer and you can always keep stuff here add it to the pile of random shit lying around!!
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Don't forget to bring your office chairs!
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Thanks arie & nick
I may be in touch... Gonna test the starter this weekend and see if it's shot or if it's the moor that does t want to spin. Smike you don't have access to a borrowable bore scope do you?
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nope
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I have a fiber optic scope...
will fit in a spark plug hole.. not the best.. but better then you can do without one..
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you are not going to see anything that will help you
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likely - but if I do see that they're scored to shit I'll know not to care.
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$200/yr to insure this pile to put plates on it. that's just enough to actually make me think twice about it.
I love how it can go up that much when there's only one fucking driver on the god damned policy!
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Reread the included statutes. If they want to be picky (and they might) plated and inspected isn't good enough. It cannot be ANY of the following:
- Unregistered/ expired for 32+ days
- Uninspected for 32+ days
- Not operable/ not in condition for highway use
So I guess I'll probably drag it up to Nick's Friday on my way out of town. Looked at it again tonight and I'm pretty certain it's the engine not the starter. Turned over St. Michael via crank bolt and ratchet and it was "difficult". I couldn't move this motor at all, even with a short cheater. It's stiff as can be without being totally seized so I bet bearings are toast. It's gotten worse since I've had it so I doubt it's rusty bores. Any other thoughts on the 4.2?
Still thinking of selling St Michael after i finish it and getting this to DD status. LS V8 versus TDI/ Toy would be the question then, assuming this 4.2 is shot. I've really been enjoying DDing the other car lately, but it's a slow lump and gets shit mileage for it. Yes I'm an idiot blah blah blah, please focus on the maybe dead 4.2 for a moment
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i could put a 5.3 in it for you
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258s don't die....
They get rebuilt or swapped out.
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rebuilding motors is for the birds
258's have their place, 40 years ago
300hp LS motors are the new 400$ fix
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I'm sure it "needs" a married tcase for packaging. Not sure that makes for a $400 fix, but with the right wrecked truck it could be close.
I'd rather swap than rebuild too. Should "bolt right in," it's way smaller overall and there's no vehicle systems to tie into. Let me know your thoughts maybe I'll bring it there instead...
I'm sure the IFS mounts could be made to work.
I just remembered that Michael has the only IFS front of the three that can be geared though. It's 3.23 now. With an OD trans, 3.73 would probably be what I want. The other two cars are 2.92 and need a custom thickness spacer to run any other ratio. The D30 IFS housing used different pinion offsets than all other D30s. Easy center to swap any time, and rear would go 8.8.
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i could put a 5.3 in it for you
price?
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i might still need the head out of that fucker
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That's the other fucker - not that it seems to matter now. And this is to store not scrap.
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i got storage...
dont I have another one of your piles next to one of my piles..
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Pile storage, yeah... Damn things.
Attn Eric: I may be realizing the scope of my issue. FYI :)
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You clean out that garage yet? Or need it done? :)
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no way.. dropped the trailer off there yesterday..
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You have a very large issue with too many projects. Sell them all. And do not put a LS in a Eagle.
Build a buggy.
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i could put a 5.3 in it for you
price?
500$ for motor / trans
100$ for ECM tune
100$ for exhaust
100$ for fuel pump
100$ rear shaft work
200$ for radiator
500$ install labor
on your own for 4x4, gages, ac ect
make it an even 1700$ with fluids ;D
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Turn it off!
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hahaha
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Summering at the lake!
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You have a very large issue with too many projects. Sell them all. And do not put a LS in a Eagle.
Build a buggy.
THIS!!!
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http://jalopnik.com/the-ten-best-enthusiast-cars-for-under-1-000-1459422601/@matepetrany?utm_campaign=socialflow_jalopnik_facebook&utm_source=jalopnik_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow
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