M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: JEEPWERX on April 04, 2012, 06:27:11 PM
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So a few weeks ago or maybe about a month ago when Smike and I went to rausch creek in the snow, I snapped my cable shifter on the first trail of the day. Managed to finagle a set of vice grips onto the lever and working that's all weekend through the floor. It definitely made for some interesting wheeling considering I could not use my shoulder harnesses because then I would not be able to reach the vice grips.
So a couple nights ago while looking 4trailers parts to make a solid link mount shifter... I realized that the second lever above the shift lever on the transmission was for a throttle pressure linkage and not kick down cable.
Having not ever had hooked that up I've been running low pressure in my transmission since day 1. Anxious to see how it will perform when is connected to the throttle.
I've never heard of a throttle pressure linkage set up on a transmission before has anybody else?
This is a torque flight 999
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Yes..
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th400 with a small block, just give it up already! ;D
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Haha.
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sorry i forgot...
:o
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I ordered new Rod Ends From Summit In the hopes of getting some new linkage built this weekend. But The 5/16" Stainless Threaded Rod i received Was mistakenly Labeled as the 3/8" i had ordered. :-\
But Summit is awesome and said keep it, we will send you the 3/8" ASAP.
oh well,
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Threaded rod in stock at Fastenal?
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Im stopping by today. I wanted stainless but at this point ill settle for zinc coated.
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i grabbed a 10' chunk from surplus last time for stuff like this...
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So I'm starting to think that all this breakage is contagious.
Or more specifically lack of maintenance on my part. I guess you can only leave your Jeep in the shop for 3 months... never touch it, throw it on a trailer and go wheeling with no issues a limited number of times.
Broken / Messed up Parts List
All wheelbearings fried ( too much creek wheeling)
3 broken high steer arm bolts
Steering heims shot
14 bolt diff cover leaking (bottom 3 bolts missing or not recognizable)
60 diff cover just refuses to hold fluids anymore ( even the chocolate milk)
Powersteering pulley has begun to slip on the pump shaft. Hydro steering almost being negated. Saginaw no keyway
3 out of 8 front johnny joints ( hosed)
Exhaust down pipe cracked (again)
Passenger front Bogger (RIP) ¹¹ years old
Front drive shaft - death wobble (dirty dancing with too many sharp rocks)
But thanks to Dan @Ruffstuff having a sale on hiems last week... I have a BIG box coming.
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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sounds about what i did in two laps this race, haha
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Did some long overdue maintenance yesterday and installed some new front axle joints.
Driver side install went smooth as glass.
The bushings in the joints on both sides of the axle were hosed.
During re installation of the passenger side hub and drive flange she needed some persuasion with he LFH to align the splines of the drive flange, hub and stub shaft.
Nothing major just needed a nudge to get started.
Now she wont freewheel by hand in nuetral.
Bearings and races are all relatively new and in good shape and all repacked.
Keep in mind...
Second to last trip we did "Kiss" a 4ft tall bridge pier with that side wheel while attempting a muddy hill climb at full throttle. Prob 10mph
Sheared a grade 8 - 5/8" dia bolt in one of the steering heims.
Opinions?
Bent knuckle
Bent stub shaft
Bent spindle
All of the above
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most of those components break and dont bent. i think your fine
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If it was fine why won't it spin?
I guess you'd need to pop the drive flange to check anything
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id guess twisted splines. Im not sure i understand "wont free wheel in neutral by hand"
F'd spindle needle bearings will do this, id inspect the inner (stock?) shaft for spine twists ect. i have twisted / broke 4340 shafts with only spicer joints before.
give the knuckle a good look around the arm for cracks. was the nylon bushing hosed from the bidge hit?
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Everything spun fine B4 drive flange went in.
Just thought I should prob rule out brakes by removing caliper also.
Maybe throw it in FWD while the lift, watch and listen.
IDK she is gonna get run regardless.
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could be something as simple as brake drag too.
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hah, slow typer
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Not sure about twisted splines... the flange wouldnt even start w/o hammer.
But still why would that affect spinning.
Chromo in and out
Did not disassemble passenger knuckle. Seemed fine.
Driver side got all new parts and I used your trick welding the top cone to the knuckle.
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I bet it's just brake drag unless you were able to spin things before the R&R
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Sounds broken, burn it. ;D
Does the other side spin?
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welded diffs in that unit I believe
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I honestly didnt notice if it spun freely or not before.
Yes welded diffs.
I better check my insurance policy.
1985 CJ 7 kinda sorta thing with no title?
Covered
Lets burn it.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/uzyhaqa8.jpg)
RV Ghosts
Anyone able to explain the overall functions of this little control module?
Does it have remote capabilities? No visible antenna. All we have is a hard wired switch to operate it.
At random times the rear 12v electric roll up door goes up by itself. Ive never seen nor heard it first hand. But it seem to happen more when plugged into the shop. We did find it up once while traveling. But cant confirm if it was down when we departed. Maybe a garage door opener interference?
Planning to call the manufacturer next week.
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Lets burn it.
;D
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C:-)
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Anyone have an extra Hawse Fairlead available?
I bought a new synthetic winch rope for my warn and opted not to purchase a new hawse fairlead because I remember having one sitting around the shop.
But as luck would have it I cant find it.
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Hf doesnt have any and nothing listed on website.
I swore they used to sell them seperatly.
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Can one of the Buggy guys give me recommendation on material thickness for aluminum roof and side panels?
Thanks
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1/8“ roof. 1/16" sides.
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I used some. 040" sides on mine. They are very thin and just don't hold up.
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Cool.
Thanks
Not sure why I didn't just do a roof in the first place?
I always wheel w a bikini top anyway.
::)
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I used whatever was free mine is 1/8" on top and sides are made from ski view signs with ad removed.
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Lol
Ryan that new supplier down the block from you is open I assume?
You check them out yet?
Other wise Pacemaker in Manchester gave me some good prices on DOM Tube figured I'd compare both prices.
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Not sure if they are open yet, I dont see much going on there anytime.
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Check the grade of the roof aluminum. Stuff on 571 is way stronger than what we just got for the two cars.
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Ryan only leaves the house when the keg runs out lol
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Ryan only leaves the house when the keg runs out lol
Or to dance class.
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Check the grade of the roof aluminum. Stuff on 571 is way stronger than what we just got for the two cars.
K
thanks mike
I don't want it peeling back on the interstate.
LOL
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Haha like the mattresses on the tops if cars
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Yup
Or foam insulation boards from Homedepot.
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Went to Pacemaker steel in manchester today to pickup some tube and Aluminum sheet.
I took Mark "skippy" with me. And we got the facility tour with the VP.
Nice company. Eager to please.
Pricing for future reference
.125 X48X96 3003-h14 aluminum sheet
$116.00
.125X48X120 3003-h14 aluminum sheet
$180.00
.063×48×120 300 3-3 14 aluminum sheet
$80.00
1-1/4 × .095 × 20 HREW Tube $20.00
1-3/4 × .120 × DOM back ordered price TBD
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$3.90 per ft for 1-3/4 × .120 wall Dom
From Pacemaker Steel
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Build a race car. Make 2015 KOH during LCQ. ;D
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LCQ looked pretty easy compared to any of the other qualifiers lol
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I guess it's too late to add the neutral safety switch option.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/28/9agumaja.jpg)
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What are used Sway Away Air Shocks worth?
2-2"×16"
2-2.5"×16"
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i got 700 shipped for my four 2.5 airs and one needed a shaft and end.
id ask 400 for the 2.5's
300 for the 2.0's
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K thanks
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http://www.davesoffroadsupply.com/Maxxis_c_100.html (http://www.davesoffroadsupply.com/Maxxis_c_100.html)
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http://www.davesoffroadsupply.com/Maxxis_c_100.html (http://www.davesoffroadsupply.com/Maxxis_c_100.html)
Hmm not bad pricing! You won't need those for RCROCS or line mountain though. Maybe the 37's??
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Not stickies but for rock crawling
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BFG are $1000 less......
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For 4. So I guess $500 less for 5
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Ok good to know. What about Kr2's Ryan
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id like some BFG projects for this year to beat on
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You know... like the bald ones smike drives. But with tread.
;)
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just you wait, when you spend 2000$ on tires, and then one weekend later they look like all of my tires.
o wait, you didnt put a real motor in yet, so you will be fine. 8)
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Lol
touché
Yea Boggers seem like they have a much longer life expectancy.
hey wait... i did just spend over 2k on tires
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tires in the sub $100 range is where its at!
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my brand new boggers are already showing right foot wear pretty good. they are not a rocks tire at all. even took some serous hits on your tree roots and in corning.
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Ok good to know. What about Kr2's Ryan
KRT? $500 per tire
Just priced some 42" Krawlers. Ummm, not cheap. $750 tire
But 42" KR are $400
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Ryan what are you gonna run on the new jeep? 40.5" or 43"
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Pit Bull Rockers so I can go anywhere with a stock Jeep. ;D
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picture of the 42 KR? is that a sticky for only 400$?
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Yes what is this super cheap tire you speak of?
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Pit Bull Rockers so I can go anywhere with a stock Jeep. ;D
LoL
>:D
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Its the real name for "projects"
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but a 42? i didnt know they made a 42 project- are they a 17 or 20?
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Its on the secret website. 20" wheel
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I don't think the kr is a sticky. It's a desert race tire.
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Copied form the website
OFF ROAD RACE
42x13.50-20 KR
PART #: 16611
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Link to them on BFG
http://www.bfgoodrichracing.com/desert-racing-bfgoodrich-baja-ta-kr/
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I'd run the 39's for rausch creek races. And save the boggers. At that price
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When are you going to race this hawg?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Soon grasshopper soon
Not gonna be this spring
But maybe I can rent a car?
::)
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He already told me "no"... ;)
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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We could always call it a test drive after a non-refundable deposit;D;D
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its 20hrs of labor to get it to as clean as it is right now with a zero mile trans, 2 brand new rear shocks, and brand new tins.
thats a rental fee you would be better off buying the car...
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Smike I had no idea.
New tins?
You feeling ok?
Well that changes everything
Polish that girl up!
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i worked on the car for a week straight last month while i had some down time between customer work. It was stripped down to the bare chassis motor / trans pulled, and power washed for 2 hours. entire chassis was wire wheeled and stripped of rust / debris. All welds inspected and only tree bar areas found cracks and repairs made. Chassis painted hammer black New fresh build trans installed, 2 new rear shocks installed, and new tins. All exterior tin hardware changed to new stainless steel allen cap. roof stripped, might build a new hood.
underside / drivetrain is race prepped with 20miles on it. Has big boy brakes now. needs nothing to race. has 4.10 gears currently and yukon super shafts with beat KRTs on H2's. GPS and Radio have been pulled. New Lifetime LED tail lights to install. Bumpers meet line MT rules.
have 4.56 gears to swap in or put 5.38's in. bolt the seats back in- other wise its a new car ready for race season or or wreck it for 10 years.
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it will go up for ~$25K when its nice outside and get some good pics I can make that number go down $5K or up $10K in a day of bolting or unbolting stuff on or off depending on the deal....
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Just read a recent post on line mtn rules...
My orbital needs to be outside my firewall?
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is that what it says?
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Gotta look it up.
Busy plowing white crap
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Official Rcrocs Race Series 2014 COMPETITION RULES AND REGULATIONS
http://www.rc4x4.org/rcforum/index.php/topic,20913.50.html
As for the orbital. it needs to be behind the cowl and not in the cab. Safty reasons with the hot oil incase something happens.
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I'm all set! I can do 0.2 laps/hour lol
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You guys have recommendations for shops to do service on our RV?
Looking to have the Duramax cooling system flushed and Allison transmission serviced for the new season.
Ballantyne won't service the transmission so they recommended Tracey in henrietta.
I know Mike has had experience with Regional.
I'm obviously more concerned with quality service over price with this machine!
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Cant any Chevy/MD truck dealer do that work?
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From previous experience... no.
It's too big for their shops and lifts.
That's also why Ballantyne won't touch it.
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Sorry i missed the MD in your post.
I don't know of one
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I took my junk to Smith Heavy Equipment but I wouldn't recommend them for the RV.
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I was thinking about Jared shop... but it's a long drive for me especially if I need to leave it for a day.
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you could try Dave's Towing in Honeoye 585-229-2070, I am pretty sure they do MD stuff.. just don't expect great customer service.. Dave can be a grumpy asshole.
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if you want/can do the work yourself.. I could ask Shea if you could use the lift in his shop.
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I would but I don't have the time. Cabinets to build and install for waiting customers. ;)
I last changed the oil in Vail Colorado in a Walmart parking lot on our drive back to NY in September.
I don't know the status of the coolant. It could be original. Only 17k miles on a 9 year old RV. :/
Same with Transmission. .. i don't know the status. I assume all is original.
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Forgot about Farmington Service
Gonna check w them
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coolant changes suck on those. the hose isnt at the bottom of the radiator and its burried.... if its anything like a truck 06'
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Called a few more places and no go.
Tracey equip sent me to east Syracuse Chevrolet. .. :(
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Seems no one will touch GM diesel.
Internet search for medium duty gm service gives no gm results
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I have seem them for sale at Ballentyne........
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Yea they have had 2 recently. But won't service them. Wtf.
Calling camping world
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thats why I went with a gas motor in the Nu Way NPR..
no good HD Diesel in Rochester..
DiCarlos maybe..
smaller guys might do it..
Diesel Haus?
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Camping world said they will do oil change coolant flush and trans service but can't flush trans.
Waiting for email quote... :/
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thats why I went with a gas motor in the Nu Way NPR..
no good HD Diesel in Rochester..
DiCarlos maybe..
smaller guys might do it..
Diesel Haus?
I was about to call Di carols... but the two previous calls told me no,
so I was getting discouraged with local shops.
Need heard of diesel ha us
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conway beam?
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No called yet.
Went back to work for a while.
Prob a necessity to pay for massive amounts of fluids to be changed in this beast.
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I'm assuming Regional won't do the GM side but I know they do work on Alison trannies.
I think Ryder on Jefferson does service.
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I used this small shop in Williamson that just does big stuff like dump trucks and semi. Steve's truck repair it's on railroad street in Williamson. Give him a call he might not have a problem doing it.
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Also try JME here in Ontario right on 104 I have seen some decent size stuff there a lot of new bigger stuff.
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M4
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M4 shut down- time to go racing
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M4 shut down- time to go racing
Kim has Spanish tomorrow, I'll bring some beer over and see if I can stop progress - assuming you'll be working.
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I'm down for a night out wed
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if you want/can do the work yourself.. I could ask Shea if you could use the lift in his shop.
Thanks Aaron forgot to say,
I really appreciate the offer.
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Thanks for all the advice guys.
Caledonia RV came highly recommended for diesel RV work.
Preliminary Appt scheduled. Waiting on price quote.
Camping world quoted just oer 1200.00.
Individual prices were reasonable... im on the fence about being the Dick that shows up with all his own parts. :l
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if you want/can do the work yourself.. I could ask Shea if you could use the lift in his shop.
Thanks Aaron forgot to say,
I really appreciate the offer.
yeah I know you are busy... have you got any figures for us yet? no huge hurry just wanted to make sure we did not miss them somewhere...
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Was planning to work up something before the end of this week.
I have time avail next week to get working on it if the boss likes the price!
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Off to Caledonia RV
They quoted almost 500 less than camping world for same work.
And came with better recommendations.
The sun is shining... let's go wheeling
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my tech stores his camper there, he was pleased with service and cost.
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these were the switches i ended up with
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5513pt
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Cool thanks mike
Found them on amazon also
20 amps
275 +12 shipping for pack of 25
Don't need 25 and Summit shipping is awesomeness
Circles are way easier to cut then rectangles.
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i need one that's 3 position with center off for my radiator control, not so important cause it switches ground to a relay pack.
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Yea thanks for reminding me.
I heard you switch fan speeds over the weekend and I had wanted to do the same.
And same one for winch control
Momentary switch for starter also.
I'm gonna continue with what I have now and replace as needed.
Can LIFETIME supply any waterproof rockers?
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I just have the same style you got before.
I could order waterproof in 100 qty from my switch people, It would be cheaper than $14 each....
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I have these
http://www.larsonelectronics.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=49817&gclid=CKSDzOT0uL8CFbNzMgoduyQAUw
among others
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I get my rectangle-hole Contura switches from Waytek. I keep some in stock. None momentary, idk if they are available. They do have on off on.
Tapatalking in traffic
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We have the contoura style, have dpdt, and also momentary spdt for winch. Also some snap together "panels" for the switches.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/yjepy7eq.jpg)
Should I be concerned or should I just click ok as usual?
Lol
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I dunno but its a link to that
Cole Hersee Waterproof 25A PVC-Coated Momentary On General Usage Toggle Switch for LED and HID Light
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I assume these babies are not in Farmington?
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I'd have to look. On way to b-low
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http://gasketdeals.com/# (http://gasketdeals.com/#)
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What's the general consensus on guage of battery cables and winch power cables?
0 or 1 ga?
I'm looking at about:
6 ft batteries to master switch
8-9 ft winch to batteries
Anyone use welding cable?
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Welding cable is usually more expensive. 2ga is probably plenty, it's what most winches come with. Are you planning to run your winch through your master? What is it rated for?
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No I wasn't
Winch direct to batteries
I was figuring going heavy to compensate for extra distance.
Most winches come with 5 ft of cable not 8.5
I have 2 ga to get me up and running. I guess I'll upgrade later if necessary.
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welding cable has more, smaller strands of copper and more HD jacket, more bendable. For a winch the cables not moving, no real benefit.
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Agreed
Not worth the extra price tag
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get the HD moroso disconnect- 1000amps continous. its like 90$ there is nothing else cheaper that will keep up with the draws of racing fans / coolers/ ect
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My 3rd HF one has been holding for a while now :P
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I still want to put one of these at my battery
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/files/littelfuse/technical%20resources/documents/ch%20docs/littelfuse_d-647.pdf
I don't know if it would really handle winch load, and it's about a $70 experiment
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Littlefuse is quality
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i burned up a 500amp continuous 5 finger discount unit already on that car
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did the winch go through it back then? no way starter load fried a 500a switch...
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no winch ever has gone through
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Random winch look up Warn M8000: 435 amps @ 12V
I did not know they drew that much
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/15/uhuna9um.jpg)
Looks like mine is good.
1500 amps @ 10 seconds
775 @ 1 min
500 @ 5 min
300 continuous
I wasn't planning to run the winch through it... don't see the purpose?
Is it requires for racing
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not required, the winch may bypass the shutoff - and most do.
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my opinion only 300 amp continuous will fail.
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I dont understand why the failure with these things, piece of copper with a bolt in the middle. Make it better! lol
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i would venture they are not made to deal with temperature, moisture, dust, ect.
300 amps in an AC controlled test lab is diff than on a race car that gets power washed lol
i will say the ones that give you data for different loads are typically higher quality, that have actually be tested / validated.
they do not list the duty cycle recovery time however.
HF units are like 100 HF amps :D
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100A @ 3 sec
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100A @ 3 sec
1% duty, 5 min recovery.
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I went with a marine shut off specifically because of the moisture issues we encounter.
My best guess after looking up my old switch on summit is that it's the Moroso 300 amp 2k surge model.
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in 572 the two batteries are in the back- i ran ground to chassis, power up to disco supply. power for winch is then connected to disco supply also. keeps wire lenght down, only big "hot wire" running around you.
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I like the idea of not running winch cables all the way to behind the passenger seat. (New location)
Thought it would help transfer some weight to the rear of the Jeep.
I'm focusing on getting jeep up and running now. Swapping battery cables and or shut offs can be done later I guess if it becomes and issue.
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I'm not even gonna post the size of my current ( no pun intended) disconnect switch.
Let's just say it must have been very inexpensive.
Same model worked fine in both our jeeps... no winch.
I'll give the new one a try can't be worse than the old one.
But def gonna need bigger power lead from battery to disconnect if I attach the winch.
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the HF unit does not list a rating
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real radiator fans that draw 26amps static plus 4 other fans in the car is probably our difference :)
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True true
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I guess I should order some springs for my coilovers... Prob work better that way.
Where are you guys getting springs?
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Looks like summit has QA1 for 33 dollars.
7" listed in catalog No 8"
Catalog doesn't list inside dimension either.
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Current set up 16" in front
14" in rear
I may swap fronts to 14" but figured I'd decide after I test.
Found 8" in both 200 & 250 but No listing on site for 7 x 200
Was going to start with 200 over 250.
Unless you guys advise otherwise?
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for 16" shocks you need a 18" and 16" spring
For 14" shocks you need a 16" and 14" spring.
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What diamenter coilovers do you have?
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I still have my accounts at blue coil and viper coil.
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he has toooos
you should start with what mike has in 571, basically same setup- you are probably within 300lbs car weight
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I would expect very close, probably 300-400# heavier with Jeep frame bits, heavier body work, and iron heads.
Do you have access to any race scales? If you do, you can just get it right from the beginning instead of guessing. I don't know my car well enough yet to rattle off spring rates. Some of many things I have left to learn :)
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No scales between now and the weekend.
I can reinstall my air shocks for a test run this weekend.
Prob won't have True weight #s until I finish the build. Winch, front bumper, air tank, rear storage, tools etc.
But i appreciate all the advice. I was doing carpenter math... 7+7= 14.
:)
Getting anxious to move this pile out of the shop.
Trans and steering Coolers, fittings and hose will be here tomorrow.
She is 90% wired (we shall soon find out how good my memory is)
Fuel system is plumbed
Rear brake lines need to be reworked.
Wrap passenger exhaust (buy more wrap)
Thanks ryan. I'll put an order together as soon as I get some weight info.
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Not sure what may be around for spare 2" coils between us, but you can do the math on sit-in to get rough weights too.
I'm pretty sure my coils still have readable numbers, but I'd have to look hard since I haven't washed the car yet. I won't be home tonight so I wouldn't have rough guesses for you until tomorrow night.
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No worries. Thanks
Air shocks sound like a good plan for this weekend.
Then I can focus on testing mt or and cooling and electrical systems and not new suspension too
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i believe 571 rear is 16" 150 over 16" 150
front is 16" 150 over 14" 200
i would recommend buying all 16" springs so you can swap them around as long as the threads go al the way up to the upper eyes.
for that car i would get 3pairs of 150, 1 pair of 200, 1 pair of 250
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I'll check the shocks and verify thread length.
Thanks smike
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/24/re7ubavy.jpg)
I wouldn't consider this all the way?
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hmmm, ya you cant run 16/16 like the profenders can then.
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one thing that would be easy to do is measure the pressure in your air shocks
with some look up and math this would give you your corner weights
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Or I can just call in a favor from my neighbor... maybe she can get me in with DOT?
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well, race scales arent really what you want, you need your sprung weight corners (only what the shock holds up), not total corner weight.
axles / tires are sprung weight. simplified (!), no effect on spring rates.
granted total weight and some assumptions you can get pretty close. you just dont want to be running more than 2-3" of pre load if you guess way light especially without limit straps.
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Race scale procedure: get corner weights with no springs or shock pressure, sitting on bump stops. Then put the chassis on jackstands off the stops to get the unsprung weight and subtract.
That's my thought, anyway...
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the air shock pressure method is actually the best and simplest- because it cancels out any math from the shocks being at angles assuming your C/Os are mounted the same.
say 200psi at right height- your shaft load is 863lbs with a 1 3/8" air shock shaft
so 50/50 droop you want that load about, so 1" preload plus 7" coil compression, that would be a total rate of 108lbs/in
a 200/200 would give you a little less than that, probably be right with a nitrogen charge on the shock.
reasoning for ratio of upper to lower rate choice i dont know. typ lower rate if different is larger number. (only matters if your dual stops are set right)
i could show you the math in 2 min on a white board to get this.
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How else do I figure out the sprung weight then by weighing the entire vehicle first.
Then jack up the chassis to pick it off the bump stops.
Subtract that measurement from total weight.
Race scales sound perfect.
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Race scale procedure: get corner weights with no springs or shock pressure, sitting on bump stops. Then put the chassis on jackstands off the stops to get the unsprung weight and subtract.
That's my thought, anyway...
good idea, add measure angles of shocks at ride height also
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I forgot about angled shocks. very true.
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Different spring rates offer different dampening effects.
100 over 350 would be better for a rock crawler.
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Need some trig to go from the scales to per-inch weights on the shocks but you're a carpenter. You understand angles :)
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This is may all be a touch too technical for this buggy.
she is no Ultra 4 car
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100/300 and 200/200 give the same total rate before the dual rate stop but the 100/300 gives you three times the rate after you hit the stop. much more progressive so you don't crash through your travel.
right? EDIT: no, I think I'm wrong on that. It's not a+b/2 for total rate, it's something else....
I'd think we actually want more progressive on the gofast than for a crawler that wants to end up using all travel.
Things that probably belong in a suspension tuning thread?
-
I do understand angles... ;)
-
Different spring rates offer different dampening effects.
100 over 350 would be better for a rock crawler.
spring rate does not relate anything to dampening
i believe rock crawlers like single rate (no dual stops, and same upper/lower) because they want smooth consistant suspention travel, not like a racer on an O SHIT jump stop my car from EXPLODING on landing
-
100/300 and 200/200 give the same total rate before the dual rate stop but the 100/300 gives you three times the rate after you hit the stop. much more progressive so you don't crash through your travel.
right?
I'd think we actually want more progressive on the gofast than for a crawler that wants to end up using all travel.
Things that probably belong in a suspension tuning thread?
almost, but 100/300 is total rate of 75, 200/200 is 100
-
1/Kt = 1/K1 + 1/K2
-
for that car i would get 3pairs of 150, 1 pair of 200, 1 pair of 250
2.5x14x150 2
2.5x16x150 2
2.5x14x200 2
2.5x16x200 2
2.5x14x250 2
That should cover you for most situations. maybe an 18"x200 but I think 2 16" on those will work just fine.
DO you have limit straps?
-
I just checked pricing at VC, looking at about $38 per coil depending on size, Plus shipping.
-
K thanks Ryan
No straps yet I need to order how much shorter then overall shock extension should I order straps?
-
K thanks Ryan
No straps yet I need to order how much shorter then overall shock extension should I order straps?
I think 2" maybe??
-
I'm happy with that price.
-
K
I'll be needing a new rear driveshaft configuration before I can utilize entire shock travel.
Been using center limit strap to help with yoke binding
-
arent your front shocks raked way back?
pressures or scales and math are probably necessary before slapping my accu eye numbers on it. you might end up too light in the front with them racked back that much.
-
I have some blue 18x 325 in stock. :)
-
Some rake =
extreme visual enhancement during transport.
If I only had a flat brim...
-
goto the app store and search profender
-
K
-
goto the app store and search profender
not the friendliest app ever... maybe the android version is better. ios it's pretty unclean what's up...
-
On the lookout for a used set of Race Wheels and tires.
37s?
You guys see anything out there right now?
-
Im ordering more KMC's soon at 265$ a wheel shipped- let me know if you want in
i have seen a few racelines break the centers out, and im not crazy how thin the inner bead is on the methods.
Mikes toyos are pretty shap for 37s Else id go with a set of 39crawlers for what you do
-
Yea the boggers are cool for woods wheeling but rocks are tearing them up.
I'll keep them.
Not sure if my budget will allow new wheels AND tires,
so I was thinking used for now.
When are you ordering?
-
proabably early next week. He is a pirate vendor i found. cheapest i can find and claims to have a good stock.
-
Decker had 85% KRT's on some kind of fancy wheel for sale on the face book yesterday
-
i think those were krawlers on monsters- but no forsale txt that i saw
-
feel pretty sad knowing what race program cost is and people just sell them to public for profit
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels-sale/1727442-4-new-39-bfg-krawlers-sac-ca.html
-
I paid that for 4 boggers
-
sorry
-
I'm not. It's what I wanted at the time.
-
my 44's were blems and 2100 shipped i think
it wasnt what i wanted but i had to do it haha
-
Boggers are stupid and Fun...
Just like my Buggy!
OH I ALMOST FORGOT!
IT LIVES, and it sounds mean as shit!
-
Tonights list =
Steering pump install
Steering cooler install
Rear brake lines
Wire all 3 fans
Air shocks reinstall and pressurize
-
cool!
-
And an alternator.
Apparently I broke the stud off the back of the alternator when disassembling the engine for removal. Got one coming in to nu-way Farmington tomorrow AM . Its only 70 amps so I'll upgrade at a later date
-
Almost as bad as seeing what government pricing is compared to my cost. Makes me sick.
-
Can't imagine
-
Cooler fans wired to ignition or seperate switch?
They will be thermostatically controlled so I don't see the need for a separate switch.
What do you guys do?
-
I say ignition, you can always pull the fuse if you need to shut them off. Unless you want to switch off for deep water fording...
-
I don't have fuses.
I went with circuit breakers
Both fluid coolers are 5.3 amps each
Not sure what the radiator fan is. For now it's a junkyard take off.
10 gauge wires to it so I may wire it to its own switch / circuit breaker.
I don't want to over load the 20 amp ignition switch / breaker.
-
I need to move mine to ignition, you will leave it off! Can put a solenoid or relay in. You have separately mounted fluid coolers?
-
My previous set up had it on a seperate switch. Took some getting used to.
But I'm trying to eliminate fuses on this go around so for now radiator and fluid coolers are on seperate switch with circuit breakers.
I'm running the same type of remote fluid coolers as 572.
Derale 16 pass w 10 " fan on thermostats.
-
Junk yard electric fan draws more than 20 amps.
:(
Even on a relay
-
Junk yard electric fan draws more than 20 amps.
:(
Even on a relay
;D
sorry, this made me chuckle.
20amps is 20amps. no matter the path. the goal of the relay is so the 20 amps is not going through a low current rated switch.
-
Erik.. We sell some Hayden fans I can check specs on them tomorrow..
-
It made sense in my head.
Well 40 amps is where it's at.
She blew a 25 and a 30 amp fuse
-
It made sense in my head.
Well 40 amps is where it's at.
She blew a 25 and a 30 amp fuse
if you want, shoot me a text or call
-
I can help on wiring too.
My plan is fan supply on breakers so they can be individually killed, but leave those on in practice and run the thermostat on ignition power. Plan to have override switches to manually trigger in case controller fails.
-
i like the blacked out buggy look!
looking good erik!
-
Thanks guys.
Got pretty involved with last minute adjustments and driving the buggy outside for the first time in quite a while.
Here's where I'm at...
Junkyard fan wired direct to the disconnect w 40 amp fuse.
Worked for most of the day.
Then blew my only one, possibly during a low battery engine start attempt.
So i bought a Spal from summit. 2000 cfm 20 something amp draw.
Along with the new fan, i ordered a remote coolant Reservoir.
Can't seem to get all the air out.
Seems my cap is much lower than my upper hose.
("Calibrated Eye ball" needs some adjustment)
tightened up a few hose fittings here and there.
And at least got to romp around the driveway and tear up the grass a few times.
What a difference 2 more Cylinders and GOBS more HP makes!
-
Where's the pic of this dark lord?
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/29/7asyny9u.jpg)
what a triumphant day to fire the engine and drive it for the first time.
I'm already making a mental list of changes to make in the future but for now IT WILL BE FINE!
On the short list before coilovers are installed is to rework the rear shock mounts. Those were raked forward more than the fronts... must have been a CJ Body interference issue. I don't remember.
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/29/2a8e4yva.jpg)
I'll post more tonight.
I have more of the aluminum floor and seat panels installed.
-
Complete with Post-it notes!
Lookin' good, Erik!
-
It's been a habit for a long time.
-
571 runs a Red Maxi 50 amp fues for the junkyard fan. would blow 40's after long duration.
switched to 50amp auto reset breakers on 572 and 928
-
Ok good to know.
After I placed the order for the new fan I remember seeing 50 amp circuit breakers at Ballantyne on my last visit.
Might try one before I completely remodel the fan and mount system.
Mike don't you run a variable speed control on 572?
I couldn't find a kit rated over 40 amps.
How does yours work?
-
I'm running the Spal fan wiring kit with a 40 amp relay.
Not sure if that's another issue now. Maybe starting it on a lower speed will help?
-
do you want me to check the fan controls and fans we stock?
-
we run the volvo fans on both the cars. they have a factory 70amp relay pack that has a two circuits for hi / low. you switch ground to either of the signal wires. i have a single pull double throw with center off on my dash for hi or low.
wreck wheeling with the fan hawging on high gets annoying. 571 we just hooked up high or low depending on duty. cant race on low lol
-
Ok thanks mike.
Yes please Arie.
Thanks
-
volvo fan is same blade and motor as 2 speed taurus fan, but way better mounting. the found fan flange bolts to the OE shroud, as it bolts to a new shroud.
-
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/Performance_Cooling_Products_Brochure_Flyer.pdf
there are more
-
(http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=310.0;attach=1412)
-
its a massive 12mb flyer page...
works from my PC
-
Got it
Works on my phone
Thanks
I've got some thinking to do tonigjt.
-
Still have coolant air bubble issues
Planning to swap thermostats tonight.
Also,
Running a 2 wire alternator.
I may have wired it incorrectly.
Where does the trigger wire go?
Currently it's run to ignition switch. But when master switch is shutoff engine continues to run.
Ugh
seem to recall having this issue when engine was in Cora's jeep
-
I may have figured it out.
Last night noticed that when I installed the new alternator I reinstalled the connections opposite.
With this GM 2 wire alternator the one is jumped back to main post and the other is a dash light?
-
when master switch is shutoff engine continues to run.
Charge wire has to go to the battery side of the shutoff; it will run off the alt without a battery.
-
his charge wire was correct, but something going on with one of the field wires that was back feeding through the ignition. All GM alternators are not alike. that one appears to be what i ran on the CJ and early buggy motor. one of the terminals jumps to the charge lug, the other is something for an idiot dash light. charge lug goes to batter side of the disco like you have it.
thing looks good and sounds good, couple tweaks and it will be good to go.
your cooling issues is either a gay AMC water jacket thing or a stuck shut thermostat. baffling but motor def has lot of air in it.
-
Just thinking out loud...
Radiator design should matter right?
Stock was top and bottom tanks
New design is cross flow.
New thermostat in hand
Water pump on order from Nuway (JIC, or spare at least)
-
shouldn't matter. your cold draw was on the bottom, hot on the top.
-
Cooling system air lock issue solved!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/a5yse7am.jpg)
-
fancy!
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/a5yhama5.jpg)
This weekends wheeling event made possible by Nuway Autoparts!
Restocked buggy fluids stockpile for the RV.
first day of wheeling went well.
no major issues.
Need better organization of toolbox and fluids storage.
Need heat reflective mat for behind transmission hump where I mounted the Holley computer to help cut down on heat transfer.
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/ajanype8.jpg)
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/qemu9a6y.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/a2eveje4.jpg)
-
Jealous...
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/6atanu5a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/y6eby4ej.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/e9u4y6y9.jpg)
-
First time wheeling with a Duece!
-
This is what Happens when I let DJ spot me on the comp course.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/u7eba5ev.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/9e2u8eda.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/yqehedy5.jpg)
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That's no deuce , that's got to be a 5 ton. Way too big!
-
Is there such a thing?
-
Yup, the heavy haul tractors aren't 2.5 tons. They're bigger. I think there's a rating higher than a 5t too. Tony might know better on that...
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/04/da4a8yra.jpg)
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/04/nubeze8u.jpg)
-
Checked with b-in-law who is motor pool at Bragg. He works on 5t and considers them the bottom of the heavys. Wouldn't tell what "big" is though.
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/ju2a5yta.jpg)
The Buggy Remodel is WIFE Approved!
She found the throttle.
-
RISKY BIDNESS with no belts sir!
-
the buggy defintitely looks sweet, and seems to work well in the picts so far.
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/04/da4a8yra.jpg)
the two smaller things there, behind you, are dueces. aka M35A1 or A2 or I think the latest were A3. Essentially revisions. The bigger stuff to the right is newer and I'm not sure if those are "5 tons" or bigger yet, or what their designations are. That right there is pretty much everything I know about them.
-
m35a is a 2.5
-
RISKY BIDNESS with no belts sir!
My acting skills are better than I thought!
-
They were F'in sweet.
I say we all get one and have some fun
-
So I've determined that I most likely fried the Holley Projection computer.
Forgot to remove it prior to welding.
This is computer #2 that I have killed. Ugh
MY wife was actually quite positive about it. "keep this one for spare. At least it runs,
SORTA!"
-
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/25/1307e5c209a38c8ca46809456f3102a3.jpg)
-
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/25/d23d9032800835b4cfb101f0d95b1701.jpg)
However I did get some bodywork done.
-
Need mesh for venting on passenger side for steering and trans cooling fans
-
Now I need steps, I mean rock rails.
-
Prob work on rear firewall this week while waiting for new computer. :/
-
So I've determined that I most likely fried the Holley Projection computer.
Forgot to remove it prior to welding.
Shitty!
Shame they're not as resilient as the OEM stuff seems to be to that.
-
Agreed.
Hopefully won't make that mistake again.
-
can you get a regular chevy TBI distributor on that thing? just run chevy stuff, get rid of that thing
-
it can be done
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=69362
get rid of the coil and flakey computer. get a chevy TBI on it with an o2 sensor.
how much does a computer cost?
-
new computer is about $400
-
it can be done
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=69362
get rid of the coil and flakey computer. get a chevy TBI on it with an o2 sensor.
how much does a computer cost?
If it can fit in a backpack, not much
-
The new ones on order along with an o2 sensor and associated wiring harness.
If this is a viable option? It's gonna have to be a wintertime project. I've spent so much time learning this system I can't start from scratch now.
Unfortunately the Computer is as temperamental as a newborn baby.
But Cora has mastered the art of covering it with a raincoat when out wheeling.
-
[/quote]
If it can fit in a backpack, not much
[/quote]
It will fit in your FANNYPACK!
-
the GM ecus don't seem to give a fuck about mud, weather, temp, welding, or anything else... I'd be getting rid of that thing if it's that easy to burn out and needs a raincoat, too. booo.
-
GM TBI computers you cant power wash like the LS stuff now.... but they are pretty resistant and dont care about welding.
that alone would be the reason i would toss it.
-
GM TBI computers you cant power wash like the LS stuff now.... but they are pretty resistant and dont care about welding.
that alone would be the reason i would toss it.
true story
and were used in every GM vehicle car/truck
I have a bunch of info if you ever convert to the dark side...
-
Hey no worries you guys have definitely convinced me of at least GM TBI let alone GM drivetrain altogether.
This project had sentimental attachment.
Next one = race car
-
But be careful what you wish for... I'll be bugging the shit out of you guys for help. ;)
-
Throttle Position sensor was the issue.
Testing showed it was telling ecu that we are wide open throttle. All better now.
So now I have a spare ecu and a spare TPS.
Should be good for a while. :/
-
hmmf
-
Erik, did you get "performance" series fox shocks or "factory series" ?
-
I'm not sure. I'll have to look into that.
-
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Remote-Reservoir-Shocks-7-8-Shaft-p-30148.html (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Remote-Reservoir-Shocks-7-8-Shaft-p-30148.html)
These are what I bought.
No designation on performance level.
-
Ok those look to be the "performance" grade.
-
Since you reminded me about my new shocks... let's get together some night and I'll take you up on the offer of bending up some quick bro tubing based on your #'s.
And we can calculate spring rates based on Air shock pressures.
I'll buy some cheap whiskey!
-
i dont know, maybe not. this is very confusing! two shaft sizes for 2.0's also. you got bigger ones, good.
my shock pressure filler got broken last rausch trip :(
-
Mine is operational.
-
Bigger shaft is always better. Right?
-
Bigger shaft is always better. Right?
thats what she said....
-
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Transfercase_and_differential_end_yokes.htm (http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Transfercase_and_differential_end_yokes.htm)
Anyone ever deal with this manufacturer before?
I was looking for 1330 yokes for the dana 300. But it looks like they make a 1350 high clearance yoke instead.
I wasn't planning to install 1350 yokes on the dana 300 (figured the stock output is already weak enough)
but this might be a good deal.
I have binding at the rear output if i let it fully droop out.
I've always had an output upgrade on the long to do list. But it most likely won't happen before KOH.
I'll just bring a spare.
-
center limit strap would probably cure all with out limiting flex....
-
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Transfercase_and_differential_end_yokes.htm (http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Transfercase_and_differential_end_yokes.htm)
Anyone ever deal with this manufacturer before?
they made the rear shaft for the J truck (before vic opened his shop)
-
center limit strap would probably cure all with out limiting flex....
Mike,
I've been running a center limit cable, with the plan to replace with a strap of the correct length after new shafts were made.
Actually have new strap and adjustable mount on the bench ( for about 1 year now)just looking to gain as much clearance as possible because my rear shaft is on the short side.
Good to know Gif
Thanks
-
It was a productive saturday:
Finished rear body panels
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/3f599ae8389a6e636ce0721ae0e56373.jpg)
New Ruff Stuff 14 bolt Pinion Guard and Truss Support modified, Bolted and Welded in.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/ddec59dceea0fd2f08803329bf8dd5eb.jpg)
New Poly Performance limit strap and mounts installed in center of rear axle.
New Rear Round Driveshaft made. (Waiting on new U joints to arrive for re-install)
Sunday was less productive...
but still a good day!
Rear Diff cover bolts replaced
Air Bumps installed
Measure and layout Air Bump landing pads
Ordered spare pinion yokes and Dana 300 Yokes, Drive shaft u-joints and u-bolts
(parts bin was empty)
-
Cora was busy working on new wrap design.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/04/52844f1736ba5a03b088bb069dd201f1.jpg)
-
Ooh! I like that one best.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Not that you asked, but the rear wheel "opening" looks too small.
Like the graphics!
-
Good eye mark.
We were looking to get maximum real estate back there.
We photographed it right after I finished installing them. Hadn't fully flexed out the rear yet.
It doesn't need much. 1-1/4 " more gives me enough room.
-
Looks nice.
-
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/14/f3f877bd591734f3d1ad7ebfc780c3df.jpg)
Finally got around to working on narrowing our CJ Tailgate to work with the Buggy rear tube.
Gave us a chance to set up and test out our new Miller Multimatic 200.
Portable Mig, Tig and Stick Welder.
RV / Trailer / Pit Welder
This new welder line up from Miller is amazing. Alot has changed in 4-5 years
Planning to do some testing on our generators tomorrow. See what works.
-
Did you TIG that? Looks great.
-
Some TIG, some MIG. The TIG didn't like the old metal, MIG didn't care. Some grinding was done before the pic. The fan doesn't kick on until needed, so the machine is mostly silent, which is cool. Really word great using 110.
The Pyrex cup was cool, much better visibility. The kit came with all new parts from the torch handle forward, so not just a piece of glass for $27. Plus it looks cool :) we tool picks on my new DSLR. FB & M4 upload tomorrow.
-
Thanks. Still some final grinding left to do. Mount the straps on tabs and catches.
It was a mix of Mig and tig.
And Cora did most of it.
I did the measuring and cutting.
Tig on the clean areas. Mig on the rusty spots and folds where I couldn't grind all the paint 100%.
Got some good Product Placement Shots today also.
-
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/14/6af55f3286ffd34e3a0cc18c08406192.jpg)
Took out 6-1/2 inches
-
Looks sharp
-
Generator testing went very well today.
Connected both of our 2000 watt Hondas via the companion cables and ran the Miller Multimatic 200 machine on the 110v 30 amp outlet.
Made a few passes on a couple of pieces we had already welded in the shop for comparison.
Worked flawlessly.
Turned it up to max output and the results were great.
Passed the vise and sledgehammer test.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/b882ca751359864f915045b553124d98.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/31a8e439e39d3678f11072ca681d046f.jpg)
-
Mobile-ready! Awesome. That mean the readywelder is retiring? This seems much more finish-work level than trail fix level.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
It really was great to have it actually work off the 2 Hondas.
I'm assuming the difference in power consumption between the 200 and 211 is the Internal inverter. The 200 also has an on demand cooling fan which comes on alot less frequently than expected.
As far as the ready welders... all I can say is "Hey we tried!"
We know they weren't contributing to winning the Riddler Award. But they did help many of us get off the trail or home.
They have their place and 1 will be still be carried in the RV for worst case scenarios.
Next welder test will be on the RV Generator off a 20 amp receptacle. Just for shits and giggles.
-
looks good
what wire size using? .030?
-
Yup
-
looks like pleanty power for 1/8" mig work. id like to see how it likes a 3/8" tab welded to 1/4" box/plate.
Looks like there is more than enough power to play with though.
-
That's what is on the left.
1/4" wall square tube with a scrapbook 1/4 plate welded to it.
Took it to the vice and gave it the sledgehammer test. COLD BTW.
Granted I wouldn't weld up new knuckles using the genetators. But I'm pretty satisfied with what it did for track and trail "repairs".
-
And another thing... Smike you always talked about your 211 not caring about super clean steel. Ours is very finicky. It needs well prepped steel to be happy.
But not the 200. I was welding through whatever I found in the scrap pile.
211 had Hobart .030
200 has whatever was left of an old 2 lb roll of Lincoln.
Picked up a bunch of new wire from Mahaney's saturday.
IN WELD I believe.
-
Brake lights and reverse lights were one thing we decided to add at the last minute. Thankfully we did. We had no idea how much road driving we would be doing in Moab.
Ruff Stuff Housing
Amazon LED Lights w clear lens
Shop made brake switch activator on the Wildwood pedal assembly.
Reverse lights are manual for now.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/08/5ae56cafec6b0a4dd55984e02cb2d54e.jpg)
-
I think the narrowed tailgate came out nice.
Was so nice having a tailgate again. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/08/5292e0fb6e2422ec874bb9aa224894c7.jpg)
-
did you end up changing up the roof lines for a sheet of alum?
looks good
-
No not yet.
I had too much work to get done before EJS.
-
In an effort to not jack up Gif's thread, I'll post my response here.
Yes Mike.
1 pump is adequate for crawling.
2 for anything involving down hill or throttle applied.
This is what I'm running for MC and Pedal Assembly.
http://www.polyperformance.com/Wilwood-High-Volume-Aluminum-Master-Cylinder?multi=2569 (http://www.polyperformance.com/Wilwood-High-Volume-Aluminum-Master-Cylinder?multi=2569)
Pretty sure I went with the 1 inch bore.
Maybe I can play with the balance?
I honestly didn't really spend too much time setting it up. It worked fine enough out of the box. But performance definetly seems to be declining.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
Bearings are all good.
I suppose I could check rotors for warping. I remember cora had very similar issue on her CJ7.
Turned out to be wheel bearing.
But her pedal would drop to the floor.
This pedal is and has always been consistent. Never a change in feel.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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2 pumps! i get it now haha
-
For Smike when you have a moment to calculate.
Current airshock pressures.
No people
No tools
Front 2.5 Dia 350# @ride ht
Rear 2.0 Dia 375# @ride ht
Recently Added 25 psi at full extension to rear to adjust for tools. so not sure how that translates to ride ht pressures.
Do you need to know shock angles?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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that puts your at front corner spring bearing weights of 520lbs and rear corners at 555lbs at ride
would need more info to add in the 25 psi adjustment, and no angles do not matter for what we are doing since your trying to plop in springs in the same angles / mounts.
next we need what length shocks you bought, how much shaft you want showing at ride (50/50?), and the diameter of the shock shaft
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I bought 14" initially
And then bought 2 more 16"
All are 2.0 diameter
Currently 5.5" shaft exposed front
4.5" exposed in the rear.
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Are you guys running Pac or Viper springs?
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we have mix match. with the 2.5" CO's spring quality is not as important as they dont tend to woble up as much.
Get the best springs you can buy for 2.0's PAC or Eibachs id go with.
most of ours are blue coil and a few vipers.
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What sizes should I order?
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are your air shocks now 14" and 16" or?
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this is how i would set it up
rear: 6" shaft showing, 8" shaft compressed, 1" of coil preload= total rate of 57lbs/in ~ 14" 100/ 16" 150 =60lbs/in
Front 7" shaft showing, 9" shaft compressed, 1" of coil preload= total rate of 55lbs/in ~ 16" 100/ 18" 125 =55.5 lbs/in
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i like running 50/50 shaft showing for racing, so with 2-3" of preload you could get there if you wanted over wreck wheeling status.
another trick, you can actually fit 18/18 on a 16" shock or 16/16 on a 14" shock, but since you have different shocks all your coils can be the same anyway.
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Can you fit a 18" and 16" on a 14" shock? Seems tight.
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are your air shocks now 14" and 16" or?
Air shocks are currently 16" front and rear.
I bought 14" coil overs. But was worried up front it would severly limit my travel in the rocks, so I also have a pair of 16".
I'll most likely run the 14" front and rear.
And sell the 16".
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Can you fit a 18" and 16" on a 14" shock? Seems tight.
oopps cut and paste error, fixed
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oh, so you have 6 shocks... ok ill rerun the numbers.. i would get all 16" springs then
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Why re run numbers?
I was gonna run 14" front and rear.
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i ran numbers for 14" and 16" going to 14/14 in the front will need more rate with less spring to compress at ride
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Ok
What does this mean?
14" shock in front
16" in rear?
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i should just stop over and show you how to run the numbers sometime. your situation is real easy with knowing air shock pressure on a 1 3/8" shaft
i think we are getting confused with what shocks where
if you had 16" on it for wreck wheel shaft showing (60/40ish), going to 14"'s with Race shaft showing (50/50) should work out great, and keep all your coils at 16"s to allow swapping around if you need.
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K maybe tomorrow after j&j?
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i wish it was friday! but ya after J/J i can stop over
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This might help.
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ill check that math after lunch haha
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I have 125/125 on the front of my Yj. 14" saw coilovers. I will take a pic I have about 4"-5" shaft showing. 1" preload.
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I have 125/125 on the front of my Yj. 14" saw coilovers. I will take a pic I have about 4"-5" shaft showing. 1" preload.
what will that accomplish here lol
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Lmao
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Mine has a V8. ;)
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ryans does too lol
but many things would be different, weight, shock mount geometries ect
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Oh that's right.
I was thinking of another YJ.
Just busting balls anyway.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/4d1145c2c947ace7f212f54facca9b30.jpg)
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Our weights should be very similar, Within a couple hundred pounds.
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reran numbers with proper 2.5 shaft dia
Pac can get green springs!
http://www.racingsprings.com/16-Inches-Tall/sku/31
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Those numbers look more realistic for a heavy Jeep.
Viper springs are not the best, but they cost me about $35 each, if you want me to get you quote let me know.
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Green sounds great.
But we may order springs through wayne to help move our relationship in the right direction.
He was willing to consult via email or phone as well for a small fee.
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Thanks smike for all of your help and calulations.
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I don't see a thread for your 4500 build, so I'm just gonna leave this link right here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/2183906-4500-steering-won-national-points-championship.html
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basically a full hydro truck but with a manual steering box.... very interesting stretching the rules
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Yup. Same thing could be done with a bell crank setup to run a double truangulated front [without bump steer] too.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Great find Mike.
But I'll have to re read the rules for our class which is 4600
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Off the top of my head, 4500 and 4600 have the same steering rule. But something like that probably deserves a double check :)
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4600 class is much more strict in regards to the location of steering box and it's orientation.
4500 class rules simply state no full hydro and it has to have a mechanical connection.(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/30/f7fc691023ee69d85a4dcab5bd06d241.jpg)
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I momentarily forgot about the stock suspension design, so you're stuck with a 5 link of course.
The way I read that, the system described would be legal as long as the steering box is within 4" of stock location.