M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on December 04, 2016, 08:37:35 PM
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if I count the green machine as 1.0, the silver Golf will be 2.0. plan to put the green machine up as a winter beater at 2500 and not take less than 1800. if it doesn't go I guess I'll race them and sell whichever goes first?
I cut out the bad parts of the rear end, and confirmed that the shell isn't badly tweaked. front of the wheel arches touch the doors but the frame members were missed and the strut towers are true. I'll have to play a bit of a game at the tail light opening on the driver side to get the light to sit right since I don't have dead straight tin from either car. the rest should be "easy" and will come after it drives. all work should be hidden behind lights and bumper aside from a very small dent above the LR tail that I may just leave.
Need to pull trans and either replace entire unit from the other left side wreck, or feed it a new clutch. it's either got a completely failed dual mass flywheel or a broken shaft. My bet is the former. Once that's back together, the donor's ass gets cut out and patched in, and then I drive it.
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No trans pull needed. Sadly I did break loose one pair of torque to yield bolts before I got underneath to pull axle shafts and found one broken.
Should be able to test drive tomorrow or day after to verify trans is good. Then take care of rearend damage next nice day.
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Everything back together, just need to install axles and test drive. If it goes well I've got some cutting and welding before plating.
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the dates on this thread just speak volumes to me as a Wonder creator.
finished putting tin together like a year ago. decided it's not gonna get bondo and squirted some silver last week. plates today, and dropped for inspection because the 1.8t wouldn't set readiness.
definitely needs rear shocks and probably strut bushings. rumble might be tires or bearings or alignment or god only knows.
needs a tensioner pulley, and one rad tank has a drip. I have a rad out of the donor car on the shelf.
having an alignment done too, be interesting to see how bent it is. Hit was square and most of the shortening was behind the wheel wells so I'm expecting good news. Be good to be able to keep the beam from the other car if this is super bent though.
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Stickered and aligned and a fresh starter!
Can’t wait to see the alignment printout and how bent it is/was/wasn’t.
Still has slight radiator drip (used part on the shelf at home) and a bad serpentine tensioner pulley (parr’s enroute) then DD status to see what else is wrong!
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Back home with High Miler stopped for a sticker.
Drives pretty good. Gotta chase low power though, which I don’t remember from initial drives.
Start with fuel and air filters. I shoulda had Scottie’s do an oil change and just thought of it. Oh well
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Drives well. Did some logging and I think VG turbo may be stuck or actuator goofed up. I also think low power is due to lack of fuel so hopefully filter fixes. Demands 23-25mg/stroke of fuel at full go, but no changes in butt dyno past 13-15mg/s.
Intake is clean.
Didn’t check timing, but belt is on the way so that’ll get reset anyway.
Hopefully I can get the hatch to close a bit further or make the weather seal bigger to knock down some wind noise. That and some shocks and rebablance the tires and it won’t even feel like an unknown history twice rebuilt wreck!
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New filters were no help. Oldies didn’t look bad. Have an overboost code. I bet the turbo vanes are jammed up, or the goofy actuation system is fuckered, and it’s throwing me to a limp mode once it overboosts which is why I didn’t notice until a highway run.
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Lost the serpentine belt just as I was getting up to Greece for turkey.
Everything spun free. Back side of belt looked like hell though. Pretty sure the tensioner locked up while under tension. Knew it was bad but didn’t think it’d vacate before Sunday’s planned wrenching.
Battery recovered to 12.0 after starting and killing the DRLs. Still at 12.0 when I got home.
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Timing belt job done. Found 2 finger loose bolts.
Serpentine failure was the idler disintegrating, not tensioner locking.
Pulley was gone entirely so I missed it as root cause in situ.
Code set for overboost. Vacuum lines look good. Have a lil hunting to do on that. Daily status as a slow car in the mean time, see how she does.
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confirmed turbo vanes are sticking. didn't remove the actuator, but I do feel the actuator try to move and confirmed solenoid func.
only goes into limp for overboot when sustained (read:highway - it's fine around town). I'm not going to touch that until fixed, could probably lift the head on stock fueling maps if I let it think it was boosting properly while actually pushing far past the 15psi that the stock MAP sensor can read to.
Last known issue worth caring about. Only other thing is rear hatch doesn't lock or defrost. Probably wiring disconnected.
If I keep it for a while I might swap traction control into it at some point, and probably heat the seats, and investigate the AC situation.
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Decided to grab a turbo for this pup to send it if I don’t use drivetrain to reposed something else. Received one empty and open envelope and turbo manifold sticking out of box. Amazon is slipping. Hopefully it’s in better shape inside. Impossibly cheap Chinese unit with all gaskets included.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210614/5521c2afd0b6b9d592c3bdb7e4aca87e.jpg)
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starter warrantied last week and just installed. I'd had to borrow for the wagon. both were alread carquest remans.
fired up immediately. no smoke no hesitation. this is a better motor than the one in the wagon....
power steering pressure line failed while it was sitting.
theoretically prepping for sale to eric and abbey, but I kinda just want to keep as drivetrain and chassis spares.
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theoretically prepping for sale to eric and abbey, but I kinda just want to keep as drivetrain and chassis spares.
Ahem. Wasn’t selling one of these part of the Z4 deal?
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if the parts go into the Z4 it doesn't count!
new turbo skipped the down pipe mounting studs, which always break and are never removable if they don't. Weird skip when it came with gaskets I figured it wouldn't. I don't have those on hand. Ordered. As long as the drain tube comes off whole, should be half a days' work and done. then it will hopefully just want brakes from sitting. Maybe a dressing will get them happy. Didn't seem like anything was stuck. Nothing else noticed.
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Wrapped up. Radiator drip upon return from test drive though
I forgot how slow a stock ALH TDI is. Good thing that’s easy to remedy.
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rad tank has a drip.
Still has slight radiator drip
Radiator drip upon return from test drive though
:P
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I knew I wrote this crap for a reason lol
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Registration in hand. DMV Canandaigua is actually open :o.
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Radiator replaced
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...DMV Canandaigua is actually open :o.
Been open for months
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I had just assumed with the current incompetence of our government that it drop box only.
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side marker lenses ordered from RA, $1.49 each and I had a 10% discount lol.
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Nice!
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New battery (holy shit on battery prices :o)
Call to mike to figure out how to put it in reverse ;D
Tint removed
Headliner glue failure, too cold.
Brake pedal feels good after some miles. Check brake pad light still on.
Power steering dumped all its contents on the garage floor out of new line banjo bolt at rack. This was after several drives. Loosen and re-tighten looks to have fixed it. Odd.
Air bag controller replaced, needs reprogram.
Current issues:
1. Squirters have very little pressure and it runs out of the front of the hood. Must be a leak in the line that runs inside the hood. Just noticed last night and didn't feel like investigating.
2. Interior lights do not come on with drivers door open, but it does register that the door is open on the dash.
3. Hood needs upward pressure to release. 1x1 block of wood shoved under does the trick lol.
4. Fender lights don't work. I replaced one of the bulbs. The other side is a self contained unit. Are these running lights or signals?
Random observations:
-No parking lights option. All lights or no lights.
-Awful power steering res cap. Need a giant flat blade to open.
-No lights on HVAC controls, which are at the very bottom of the center console.
-Horn honks when you start it sometimes. Haven't driven enough to figured out the pattern yet.
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this is def a wonder!
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wonderful!
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lets see some pics of this fine machine ;D
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horn honk and interior lights are related. long explanation of VW locks sometime.
bottom line is the door open switch doesn't work, and it'll try to re-lock and that re arms the alarm. super common failure. I have doors that always think they are closed or open on the wagon too.
that's the OEM light switch. aftermarket with park light position do exist. I removed 2 of them from this car, they were failing. I had a good one in my very first mk4 that was good. I have killed 3 of them between this golf and the wagon, they seem to be trash now. I forget the failure mode, I think the park or dash lights will go out after some time.
brake pads have a wire in them that wears through. when that connection breaks the pad light goes on. I suspect this has pads without that wire. can bridge connection in fender well. annoying.
lmk what I owe you for the battery.
HVAC control bulb is behind the fan control switch in the center. I'll look up the bulb.... it's a tiny one. need a good hemostat or small needle nose to change. all are just straight in and straight out.
the front bumper lights are running lights, the fender lights behind the tires are signals.
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hvac bulb is n0177512
prices are ALL OVER the place. from 70¢ to $6 with free shipping. good hunting I guess. I don't have any in stock.
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and here's our instructions for air bag module coding. 🤞🏻
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Airbag_Coding
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2 codes set in SRS system. Pass seatbelt tensioner and pass side airbag. light will be on with those codes.
Driver door key is fine. Door always reports closed and locked. Power unlock. I suspect it doesn’t power lock because it thinks it is locked? Unknown.
Right rear wheel bearing decimated. It and abs sensor swapped. Had left rear abs sensor codes set. Abs light was off when it left. Bet it came back on.
All monitors set, hope for successful sticker tomorrow.
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Home, Wegmans, home abs still off
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Sticker achieved. They hit me up to fix the fender signals.
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Sounded like a hit-n-miss engine this morning :D
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Wife reported no start at 7:30am lol. Haven’t tried myself.
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Wife reported driver side window disappeared while at work today. Drove home window down lol. Took door apart and reseated the window. It literally just sits into two cradles that go up and down. It appears she rolled it down while it was frozen (auto down) and it fell down into the door when it thawed out.
I'm really liking German engineering, door panel was very self explanatory to remove, all electrical connectors easy to separate.
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iirc there are some screws below those cradles that tension them on the glass. tightened? otherwise may repeat. apparently a maintenance item on these cars after 20 years. I have to be careful with the driver window in the wagon too. passenger has been good.
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I did not notice that. I'll have to do that next time its warm. Passenger was separated as well, rolled it up and heard it seat.
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Wife reported no turnover at work Thursday evening. I went over there, battery good, solenoid clicks, no engagement. It was cold and dark so we abandon it. Seems like the starter Mike replaced in 2018 is shot already ???.
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How's the wife unit liking this car so far?
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She says it stinks and it's cold ;D
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oh it's much worse than that - starter was NEW exchange weeks before delivery. I'd had to flip starters between wagon and golf and finally did the warranty exchange getting it ready to go to you!
it is an easy swap, I did one in a snowy parking lot once, I think maybe the 2018 unit referenced. which is still starting the wagon today.
I think those carquest starters might just be complete trash. failure mode on the factory starters is always corrosion of the solenoid to motor wire. failure on the carquest that I swapped was a bad bushing and it would fall out of engagement. What you're seeing now is new experience... And embarrassing.
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Oh my, that is indeed, much worse
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Replaced and started. Old unit engages but no spin. Weak engagement and doesn't disengage all the way.
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She says it stinks and it's cold ;D
Speaking of, thinking about getting one of these http://www.frostheater.com/
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They should make good heat once warmed up but it does take longer to warm up and below about 10f they don’t always keep up. At least they have mechanical blend doors. I sometimes think the Allroad sticks half cool.
Cold weather folks swore by frost heater a decade ago when i spent time on TDIclub forums. I’m sure they’re still good.
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This gave us a new one today. Absolutely certain it had a broken left rear spring. It was water intrusion into a blown shock absorber that froze and held the car at full compression. Bad shack was known, only had one in stock earlier and other was waiting for better weather.
New springs installed anyway along with the new shock.
I’m going to label those old springs and shelve them in case the replacements are too stiff. 2 more coils, larger OD, and thicker. Have to be close to 20% more spring rate by eye
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It’s good. I like the forward rake haha.
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Hatch struts replaced. HVAC control bulb replaced.
Oil is at the low end of dip stick range. What kind of oil do I put in this unit?
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15w40 diesel oil.
I like mobil delvac 1300 or shell rotella
change at 5k or so, takes a gallon.
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Purchase a sweet new tape deck to aux cord adapter lol. I’m surprised they’re still available.
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Drove yesterday. Brakes are real bad, low pedal, bad pulsing. Ordering pads, rotors, ebrake cables. Mike do you remember if the calipers are ok?
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they were...
the e brake uses the normal pads, need to rotate the pistons as they retract. can't just push them.
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And there it is, right there ::)
New pads and rotors. Front passenger lower caliper bolt hole is stripped out which makes it real hard to get the bolt out the way the caliper floats on this particular vehicle. Rear pads were metal. Insides of all rotors hosed. Stops real well now but still bad pedal feel. You can feel brakes start to grab when you touch the pedal but the stoppage does not increase until almost floor. Fluid is full. I did break them in properly.
Mirror glass fell off. Ordered used off ebay $10.
I really enjoy driving this unit, but no AC makes it hard to use in the summer :(.
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Worth bleeding a bit when ebrake cables get done. Probably will help
Ebrake use adjusts the rear calipers too iirc so that could also be a factor after having been all the way backed off.
I wonder what it’d take to get ac fixed on these. I never tried. Idk if it works on the two I just got. It’s getting shitty in the Ram again for the ~4th time. It was gone in the allroad when indrove that last. Works great in the z4 and the equinox though!
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everytime i kill a GM with good working AC, it makes me wonder how much hassel it would be to make a swap run with good AC.
lol, nah
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Just one more thing in a heater box and a couple sensors & a switch? Maybe?
And condensate drains and high pressure plumbing… hell of a lot harder than heat, that’s for sure.
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there are a lot of "universal" AC kits on ebay.
id like to find something that uses the GM compressor, has a stand along box in cab, two hoses you fit, and a condensor to mount.
havent found such kit.
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I don't know much about AC. For this unit the compressor doesn't engage at all. That means it's real empty or shot correct?
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no-engage symptom only and no pressure readings it isn't worth guessing.
I don't know if VW will spin an empty system or not.
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I have a hose/gauge thingy for R134 cans. I could see if it has any pressure I suppose.
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AC pressure = 0psi
Drove this machine a lot last week. Goes down the highway 80mph straight and smooth which I find impressive for a car with 230k that's had the rear end of the car welded onto it lol.
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7 calls to find Mobil Delvac for this unit. TSC has 1 jug.
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Not even on Amazon unless you want to pay quadruple.
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order cancelled ::)
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Ruh roh
I have some on the shelf but if I can't replace it it's not going to be available.
I last stocked up at BJ's off the shelf in Henrietta for a totally normal price in late spring. Maybe holler at Arie and see if Hahn has stock if it's really limited for some reason?
Pretty much any decent diesel oil is fine, these don't have the fragile camshafts of the later TDIs that need the super fancy oil.
I interchange Delvac 1300, Rotella T, or any name brand that meets the somethingsomething 5 spec
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Yeah, I'll have to look for something else. I have a half gallon of Delvac so I wanted to stick with it.
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Mike found Mobil at runnings as I was on my way to runnings.
Drivers mirror light is permanently on now ::)
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In the sun visor? I don’t know where the switch for those is. Dumb failure!
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Yes. The switch is the mirror sliding door. It flickers if you operate the door or move the visor around so likely a pinched wire in the visor harness. It does shut off with the key luckily.
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Not enough juice to start this morning. Battery @ 55%. It's been getting weaker an weaker for the last month. About a year old. Will have to check for a draw, oy!
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And dip stick tube broke off ::)
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550cca was low spec to begin with if that was true from our texts.
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Yeah, I looked it up on Rock Auto while I was ordering parts and they spec 650 or 750.
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I didn't have any issues with it last winter
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It is 650, I just can't read I guess :P
Charged up to 100%. I'll check it later see if it looses any juice.
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Down to 80% already. I’ll have to grab the DC amp clamp from work.
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Head light adjusters are stripped or inop
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What a sweet machine! :rofl:
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Battery sitting overnight disconnected 85%, connected 64%.
Found blown 50A metal bar fuse that seems to be specific to VWs. Feeds the coolant glow plugs I guess. Had to order online.
Finally got to the parking brake cables yesterday. I had ordered the cables from RA 101 days ago (well past return rime ::)) and they do not fit. This car has a cable guide tube from the handle through the floor and runs down the tunnel and ends under the rear seats. The RA cables had a metal barrel that would in no way fit into the tube. The existing had a plastic barrel. Run to AZ and Finn's (Arie's place in Canandaigua) I secured two of the correct cables. Replaced the passenger side easy peasy. The driver side cable did have a metal end and was solidly corroded to the guide tube. Broke the tube off eventually trying to remove it. Had to order online.
Ordered some headlight housings.
Ordered some hub centric rings for the winter wheels.
Ordered two dip stick tubes from Napa online last Friday, it said they would be here Tuesday. I stopped in to see if they were there yesterday and the guy said he thought it was a mistake that I ordered two so he didn't order them... So I said order two and left abruptly. What a fuckin dip shit.
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Losing 15% overnight while disconnected seems bad doesn’t it? Assuming it’s sat and corrected for surface charge.
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I hope that 50a doesn’t just insta-blow. There’s no symptoms other than the fuse and slightly longer warmup if the coolant GPs don’t glow. Should probably test them. I assume a bunch of coolant leaks when they’re pulled. I’ve never touched them. Harness could be shorted too
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I ordered 3
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New dip stick tube installed. Big day!
Coolant glow plugs tested ok. The wiring was defiantly melted at one point. We'll see what happens when I get the fuse haha.
Losing 15% overnight while disconnected seems bad doesn’t it? Assuming it’s sat and corrected for surface charge.
I was thinking that. These numbers are coming from my battery charger and it charges up very quickly. I'm not exactly sure how it and the battery behaves, idk much about DC really. I was going to try the same procedure on my Frontier but I keep forgetting.
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Frontier overnight connected 67%
Mini at least a week connected 61%
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Seems like weird black magic.
I really like my big dumb load bank. If it stays over the green line on the voltage based on ambient temp while I suck 300+ amps out of it, it’s good. If not, spend a while on trickle charge and see if it’s better. Otherwise it’s likely junk.
I’d like a procedure to fix the batteries that I think are junk. Probably worth a hundred or two a year if there was a desulfication process with AC, or acid changes, or something that I could do something with. Haven’t made time to look into it.
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Parking brake guide tube and new cable installed. Hub centric rings installed. New headlights installed. 50A fuse installed and didn't blow upon cold start ??? Checked draw on battery after shutdown and 20mA was the max which decreased to unmeasurable after 5 minutes. I'll stop at advance for a load test later today.
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Looks like HF doesn't have the big dumb load bank anymore. just the analyzer type like the parts store will use.
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Starters dead
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Well that’s interesting
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221211/a1a2f61b6f2052f3ee946c5af9c94319.jpg)
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those pieces look extra but semi important
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they work better as one piece, apparently
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Back to starting status. Got a starter from AZ this time, but its the same exact unit as the Carquest. Looking on RA, they all appear to be the same unit. No options for name brand.
I think it's been broken for a while. I've been chalking the extra noise up to cold start and low battery. It all makes sense now. After the car was warm, it didn't make any excessive noise. Flywheel has some chips, but nothing major.
Found the hub centric rings that I though I had for the winter wheels, laying in my back yard ::).
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Inspection achieved!
I would like to fix the ABS. Mike will your scanner identify the issue?
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will identify what faults ABS computer thinks there are, yes. I don't have it with me today so can't do it at the meeting.
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You don't carry it on you everywhere you go? I can't make it tonight anyhoo. I can stop by one of these weekends.
I don't recall if the light has always been on or not.
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I know mine is, as of this driving season. Hasn't been on forever. On that one, I think it's been on since that rear wheel bearing maybe? I think I remember we did one but the other threw an error too maybe? don't think I saved the scan but it might be on my desktop on that laptop.
I do carry it all the time in the beemer since the transmission issues, but this one has been happy so its stayed in the shop
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95% sure the starter has grenaded itself again. Same issue as last time, weak starts, extra noise. Last night, the big noise. I can't find this issue online anywhere.
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Not grenaded. Bench tests ok. Shaft seems a bit floppy to me for how it's designed to work, but I don't recall how it was when I put it in. Ordered a Bosch starter as they are available now. Last resort before something major needs to be addressed. Lots of comments for failed carquest, duralast, no name brand starters online.
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Bosch installed and works as it should. I’d be lying if I said it sounds great, but it’s not skipping. It is much heavier than the cheapos and there is zero shaft play.
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Uneventful road trip to Philly and back. Roads are fucked!
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Another one bites the dust!
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oh no... crash or mechanical failure?
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Starter. Spins, doesnt extend.
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Removed, looks fine visually. Teeth look fine on the flywheel and the starter. On the bench, it extends, spins, but doesent retract. Spin starts slowely and ramps up, maybe because I was using #10 wire... Sounds like it has gravel inside.
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the gravel part doesn't sound good. no retract usually means it wants some lube. Small wire may be the issue on slow start
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Odd, because it wouldn't extend in the car.
New one will be here today. Lifetime replacement through FCP Euro. I confirmed with them that this is the correct starter and there is not a different one for deisel.
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New Bosch installed and it sounds like a normal starting vehicle. Now I think the last one was not right from the git-go.
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Has been a string of that. I still wonder if there may be something funky with the flywheel that’s killing them. No idea what that could be though
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same
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Mikemike are you going to be in the shop this weekend? I'd like to hook this thing up to the scanner, pretty sure theres a wheel bearing going out and all the brake warning lights are on. I don't want to have to fix anything but starters this winter ;D.
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I should be around other than park cleanup saturday. Sunday available for scanning and for lifting and wheel wiggling. I'm 80% sure I have bearings in stock, front and rear. No ABS sensors or calipers stocked though.
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Driver rear wheel bearing replaced. Thanks Mike! I have few of the tool required for this install. Needs a new VSS.
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Getting pretty quick at these things!
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I ordered both side rear brake lines for stock.
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Good call
I may order a set of the fancy rack crossover and see if I can dupe the fittings that adapt to an-4. I should check the other two racks in my fleet, I’m sure they’re just as crunchy as my wagon where they failed and yours didn’t look great. Hundred bucks a set seems pretty proud to me but I bet it is custom machine work.
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New VSS, die grinder and fire to remove ::)