Post by: Callelle on October 04, 2016, 10:08:56 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/AkWmZOh.jpg)
So I guess I'm finally starting what I've been talking about / wanting to do for a while. This won't be anything that happens quickly, probably going to just acquire and build through this winter and next while running on stock axles for 1 more year. Unless everything happens to either fall in my lap or my budget gets a sudden massive increase. Anyway, the plans for this are stupid simple, and probably don't even warrant a build thread, but I'm bored so what the hell. Suspension works as it is and I like it, so it will stay radius arms in the front and leafs in the back, possibly going to add a bit more lift to account for increased tire size. 14 bolt is said to have 4.10s, if it does and if what ever 60 I find has 4.10s, I'll just run those gears for now so that I can get it wheeling sooner (and cheaper). I don't know what 60 I'm going with, probably an 88-91 KP with a shortened passenger side tube, not opposed to a ball joint 60, what ever falls in my lap first. Lockers will be an Aussie in the front ( I think they have a 60 locker now, if not test bed ? ::) , Rear will be a detroit since Cora doesn't have a 14b locker (yet). Front will be trussed to make link mounts easier, rear will just be getting a pinion guard and a shave. Tires will probably be 37s or 38s, what ever I can find cheap and used. Nothing fancy, I just want to have bigger stuff so I don't have to pucker out of trying things because I'm afraid of my 30 exploding if I look at it wrong. Long term plans would be ORIs front and rear, 5.13s, selectables, after I get a cage on it as well.
Post by: Wingman on October 04, 2016, 10:14:13 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 04, 2016, 10:19:10 PM
Post by: Wingman on October 04, 2016, 10:35:33 PM
Post by: jacel86 on October 05, 2016, 07:02:38 AM
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Post by: rejeep on October 05, 2016, 07:29:16 AM
Post by: wnyjpgy on October 05, 2016, 07:29:27 AM
When I was searching for that axle (which there aren't a lot available reasonable), I found a lot of duramax ones with the non removable pinion support which have a 11.5" ring gear, they don't have as much aftermarket support as the 10.5" ring gear stuff.
Post by: Callelle on October 05, 2016, 08:32:41 AM
Until you break a 30 you don't know what they can't handle...
I've broken an 8.25 shaft, really don't want to deal with that 3 hour mess on the trail again, I'd rather just do what I'm going to do in the future anyway.
Yes, it's a 10.5, same as is under my 6.0 3/4 ton
Post by: rejeep on October 05, 2016, 08:49:56 AM
when my Jeeps saw more trail than garage miles, it was never a D30 that slowed down the group.
I think they get a bad wrap for no reason..
but i love a good axle build :)
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2016, 09:11:09 AM
daily driver tires
key point.
they will last incredibly well on 35s (Keith) and a little while on 37s (MikeO) too. but once you're wanting 37s or 38s: it's time.
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2016, 09:39:02 AM
You and I have discussed this before but aside from the fact that it means my Jeep fits between my enclosed trailer fenders (which is REALLY nice) I do not think I'd narrow a front axle again. At least not with aspirations for 40s, I'm making it work but they rub everything. Dan's fit with less lift, no way I'd get away with less than what I have now.
How wide is the rear anyway? My guess would be 67", in which case it's only 2" narrower than a front 60 will be. I made my 60 65" wide and my rear C&C 14b is 63" wide.
Post by: Wingman on October 05, 2016, 09:42:27 AM
Golden Goose still rocking a D30 (35s)
Whatever still had a D30 (35s)
Post by: Callelle on October 05, 2016, 10:02:57 AM
but once you're wanting 37s or 38s: it's time.
This. I'm still going to be rocking another year on my 30 w/ 35s, but I want bigger, I want to try harder stuff. More specifically, I want to try harder things without AS MUCH fear of breaking. I know a 30 isn't as much time to repair, but the 30 isn't the only axle in question. Everyone who saw me break the 8.25 said it shouldn't have, but it did, meaning it can happen again. Also, maybe I'm just getting tired of balancing an egg under my right foot ::)
The reason I want to narrow it a bit is I don't really want one side sticking out more than the other, and at some point I would like to run enclosed. I haven't even come close to acquiring a 60 so plans may/can always change with it. If it's too much of a hassle with no return, then I wont bother.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 05, 2016, 11:43:26 AM
what a complete pain in the ass that was on the stupidest trails.
my 0.02$ lol
Post by: rejeep on October 05, 2016, 01:17:15 PM
both effective and cool in their own respects... (coming from a non hunter)
my .02 cents. ;D
Post by: TrailTamer on October 05, 2016, 01:41:50 PM
On the other hand I did toyed with an idea to find a 94-99 Dodge Ram D60 (ball joint and unit bearings) and try to graft it in because 94-01 Ram 1500/2500/3500 have very close to same front suspension set up as ZJ/TJ/XJ
I was thinking to do two different possible routes eventually, if the D30/C8.25 starts to break on me every time I take it on the trail....;
1) cut the long side off at where the CAD cast is to delete it and re tube it to whatever length to use either chevy or ford passenger side inner shafts (to narrow it some) and run it
2) no tube cutting and just modify suspension brackets where needed to bolt it in and run the cheap stock H1 wheels (no recentering) bead locks as the dodge D60 is one wide sumbitch at around 72" WMS-WMS and its (unit bearings) hubs are flush so it wont be sitting way out to get smashed when running stock h1 wheels like either chevy or ford D60s will.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2016, 01:53:33 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 05, 2016, 02:27:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2016, 02:44:37 PM
Post by: Wingman on October 05, 2016, 05:00:34 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 13, 2017, 11:12:39 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 13, 2017, 06:00:34 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 13, 2017, 06:15:22 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 13, 2017, 09:28:18 PM
There's going to be an interior hoop behind the front seats bolting through to the roof for mid support and harnesses.
(http://i.imgur.com/xrTTPbz.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2dYgV1W.jpg)
Sorry for huge pics
Post by: Callelle on April 13, 2017, 09:03:04 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/6ME6OOi.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/R72QNcK.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/V3VnGxM.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/T6jKZPV.jpg?1)
Post by: Callelle on June 03, 2018, 07:39:42 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/oBbnvQ1.jpg)
Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 05:43:04 AM
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Post by: dubt on June 07, 2018, 07:29:06 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2018, 08:04:54 AM
Post by: Wingman on June 07, 2018, 08:06:39 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2018, 08:18:54 AM
I think this came out pretty good. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180607/055467c2c4d2267c05a480080a995626.jpg)Weird. It’s a Tapatalk hosted image. Broken for me in Tapatalk too.
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Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 09:10:50 AM
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Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 10:10:51 AM
Original one uploaded through tapatalk works on my PC browser, but not on my phone. Hopefully this one works.
Post by: dubt on June 07, 2018, 10:13:37 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2018, 10:13:56 AM
Post by: Wingman on June 07, 2018, 10:22:39 AM
that's some toob.
Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 10:33:14 AM
that's some toob.
I can't tell if that's good or bad XD
Post by: cracker on June 07, 2018, 10:39:36 AM
Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 10:40:23 AM
seems like a lot of exposed area by the doors, but that is hard to cover with keeping all 4 doors operational
Doors are off when I wheel
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2018, 10:47:51 AM
Post by: cracker on June 07, 2018, 11:07:13 AM
seems like more of a reason to have some protection there.. if you feel the need for the rest of the protection, seems like you would want to keep yourself protected if you lay it on its side on a rock..seems like a lot of exposed area by the doors, but that is hard to cover with keeping all 4 doors operational
Doors are off when I wheel
Post by: Wingman on June 07, 2018, 11:09:33 AM
Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 11:16:22 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2018, 01:25:59 PM
Post by: Callelle on June 07, 2018, 01:28:28 PM
Yeah, I have an X inside.
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2018, 01:59:46 PM
Post by: Callelle on June 24, 2018, 09:58:28 AM
Post by: Wingman on June 24, 2018, 10:24:12 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2018, 10:44:12 AM
::)
Post by: Wingman on June 24, 2018, 10:46:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2018, 11:16:45 AM
My bad idea
Just gear the tons right and it’ll be fine. You won’t likely want to do 70 for long stretches anyway.
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Post by: Callelle on June 24, 2018, 02:45:14 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2018, 03:27:02 PM
I think Harry might be able to weigh in on expectations...
Post by: Harrison on June 24, 2018, 08:59:59 PM
I agree with Mike. It will not be fast (never was) but that sounds like you may need to do some poking around.
I also vote for getting tons and big tires on the thing and wheeling it. Wheel it!!! Lots of trail seat time in a rig like this is what 1) makes you understand much more clearly the future mods you want/need to make and 2) is the only ROI you get for the dumb amount of time and money we dump into these things. Use it and use it as often as you can.
Post by: Callelle on June 24, 2018, 09:39:11 PM
that doesn't sound right at all. what's your current gearing and tire size?
I think Harry might be able to weigh in on expectations...
35x12.5 with 4.56 gears.
I entirely agree with Harry, It was just an impulse reaction to how it's handling with the extra 700 lbs of steel on it. I'm not gonna rule it out in the future though. I don't really want to turbo the 4.0 because, well I really just don't have any interest in it. I have a friend that swapped an L33 into his XJ last year, so at least if I do decide to go that route, I'll have someone to help that's done it before.
Post by: TrailTamer on June 25, 2018, 06:01:13 PM
Post by: Callelle on June 26, 2018, 10:05:53 AM
How steep the hill are we talking about?
Fairly steep, but I didn't have my protractor with me, so I can't say for sure.
It's not that I want it to be fast, I just don't want it to struggle. Time will tell after this winter as to what I'm gonna do in the future.
Post by: Callelle on August 04, 2018, 08:05:46 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/ZuPI9gp.jpg?1)
Things are already progressing to making sure this is done for a full season of wheeling next year, not just one trip and done. Got a truss for the 60 from TnT which will make it essentially bolt into my long arms that I have. Going with 5.38s and TORQ lockers front and rear. Gonna run a tapped steering box and factory assist. Stock shafts and hubs are staying for now, eventually I'll be running hardcore hubs. Tires are going to be what ever I can find used/cheap, hoping to find 37s or 38s. Brake master will also be getting an upgrade to a Ram 2500 van as per Harrison's recommendation.
Side note, I definitely jumped the gun on the LS swap idea. Brake was a lot more seized up than I thought it was. Kinda how my brain works in just jumping to the worst possible conclusion there is.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 05, 2018, 09:40:38 AM
Post by: Wingman on August 05, 2018, 09:51:26 AM
Post by: Callelle on August 05, 2018, 02:13:02 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 05, 2018, 02:45:33 PM
Post by: Callelle on August 05, 2018, 02:48:51 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 05, 2018, 10:43:18 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 06, 2018, 08:21:10 AM
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Post by: wnyjpgy on August 06, 2018, 09:14:29 AM
Post by: Wingman on August 06, 2018, 10:05:21 AM
Post by: Callelle on August 06, 2018, 10:59:40 AM
Post by: Callelle on August 06, 2018, 10:52:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 06, 2018, 11:16:33 PM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2018, 08:39:44 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2018, 09:41:55 AM
Also, not all Ford axles had 35 spline inner axle shafts. I wouldn't run a 35 spline outer shaft unless the inner was 35 spline.
I believe ALL front D60s are 35spl inner.
Post by: Callelle on August 07, 2018, 10:11:43 AM
Are you keeping the stock coil/shock configuration in the front? (factory locations)
For now yes, they're staying in the same upper locations, the coil/shock mounts on my truss I ordered with being able to stretch the front up to 3"
Post by: wnyjpgy on August 07, 2018, 10:22:29 AM
I used these for my coil/shock/ lower control arm mount and couldn't be happier. I pushed mine ahead as well.
https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/collections/link-brackets/products/xj-tj-jeep-combo-bracket-upgrade-kit
Who's truss are you using? Artec I assume?
Post by: wnyjpgy on August 07, 2018, 10:27:00 AM
https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/collections/link-brackets/products/link-bracket-coil-spring-and-shock-mount-combo
Post by: Callelle on August 07, 2018, 10:44:31 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on August 08, 2018, 09:13:53 PM
Post by: Callelle on September 30, 2018, 08:53:01 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/CKvKcIt.jpg?1)
Don't know why my picture didn't upload yesterday.
Post by: Callelle on October 29, 2018, 02:39:42 PM
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Post by: Callelle on November 30, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
Post by: Wingman on November 30, 2018, 11:14:43 AM
Post by: Callelle on November 30, 2018, 06:31:24 PM
Post by: Callelle on December 26, 2018, 04:21:11 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/fnA0wxfl.jpg)
Post by: Callelle on January 06, 2019, 05:56:21 PM
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Post by: Callelle on January 07, 2019, 11:31:26 AM
"Yes you will need to cut away roughly 2 3/8 inch of the casting. To weld the lower control arm mount on you will weld on the inside of the lower control arm mount for the side next to the casting. I have attached a few pictures of a cut dana 60."
Guess I'll get back at it this weekend. It looks like they just used a cut off wheel to cut the chunk of the housing out. Anyone have any better ways to do it or is that going to be my best bet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/3d0e82ee8b4ded789bf59bda781025b8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/c60de003f3ff4432cdb9caeca52cc9a6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/1657de2ec549dab5ba519d01c1b4d05c.jpg)
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Post by: wnyjpgy on January 07, 2019, 11:47:48 AM
I'm surprised you have to cut that much, I run a 91 housing (less short side showing), and had to cut significantly less to make it work, but I didn't utilize a truss. (But I am in the factory coil/shock location)
Post by: Callelle on January 07, 2019, 11:57:56 AM
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Post by: M4wdFab on January 07, 2019, 12:56:03 PM
Post by: Callelle on January 07, 2019, 01:13:33 PM
Post by: Wingman on January 07, 2019, 01:23:00 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH4EcR1rrMA
Post by: wnyjpgy on January 08, 2019, 07:47:28 AM
My 91 kingpin style had 3" ( I had to trim just a little)
The 78-79 has 6" which I would have thought would be plenty of room.
Post by: Callelle on January 08, 2019, 07:56:03 AM
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Post by: Callelle on January 08, 2019, 07:58:08 AM
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Post by: Callelle on January 13, 2019, 08:11:50 PM
Post by: Callelle on January 18, 2019, 11:58:15 AM
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Post by: Wingman on January 18, 2019, 12:48:36 PM
Post by: Callelle on January 20, 2019, 05:12:43 PM
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Post by: Callelle on January 20, 2019, 05:13:55 PM
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Post by: Harrison on January 20, 2019, 11:34:02 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 16, 2019, 06:09:08 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on February 16, 2019, 06:38:10 PM
The heim joint on pitman arm seem like it may bind when passenger side drops, driver side stuffed. Gonna put a high steer on passenger side knuckle at least?
Post by: TrailTamer on February 16, 2019, 06:41:10 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 16, 2019, 07:32:09 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 16, 2019, 09:05:28 PM
Track bar mount may deserve plating/wrapping the frame under/around it?
Fought bolt wobble all KOH on Jon’s bronco d44 under the 4632. Same on pitman arm. His seems to have enough room to move with similar misalignment spacer setup.
Post by: Harrison on February 16, 2019, 10:36:02 PM
My steering has been single sheer for the last 6 years of wreck wheeling with this 60. Used to loosen up and need tightened at the knuckle every couple runs. Switched to fine thread and top lock and not an issue since. Wreck wheeling is infinitely easier on stuff like that than racing.
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 01:20:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 17, 2019, 03:58:45 AM
Plating side of frame is exactly what I had in mind.
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 07:19:07 AM
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 11:37:24 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 17, 2019, 02:17:37 PM
give you guys credit for jaming this shit under unibodys. i dont have any experience chasing bump stop issues from track bar / drag links.
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 03:02:05 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 17, 2019, 03:13:34 PM
its really not that expensive, even more so with single ended ram.
find an orbital on ebay 100-200$
single ended tsc ram 100$
surplus hoses / fittins 100$
Post by: TrailTamer on February 17, 2019, 05:00:43 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 06:33:56 PM
** bump steer not bump stop
its really not that expensive, even more so with single ended ram.
find an orbital on ebay 100-200$
single ended tsc ram 100$
surplus hoses / fittins 100$
Is that really all it is? I thought I would be dumping close to a grand because even surplus center orbitals are like $4-500 (last time I looked) and thought I would be needing a double ended ram. Oh well, lesson learned, I'm somewhat committed at this point.
Post by: Wingman on February 17, 2019, 06:36:57 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 17, 2019, 07:05:06 PM
"bump fitting" from a hydro shop to make your steering pump to AN6 is like 12$ then a couple 20$ hoses from surplus to the ram. the orbital is the part you need to source. being a trail rig it really doesnt matter what one you get so thats easy.
quick ebay search looks like there are a dozen for around 100$ but you need to look up the PN and make sure its something load reactive
Post by: Harrison on February 17, 2019, 08:07:45 PM
Josh - unless you’re willing to have uneven turns lock to lock and a steering wheel that’s never straight [things that don’t matter for wheeling] I’d not suggest the budget full hydro setup.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 17, 2019, 08:11:44 PM
Post by: Wingman on February 17, 2019, 09:21:02 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 17, 2019, 09:42:33 PM
Three spoke wheel and it never matters
That's kinda something I was thinking if I decide to go that route.
Post by: Harrison on February 17, 2019, 10:52:09 PM
o who cares where the wheel is or what it does, meh
I would if I had a nice steering wheel with cruise control and was committed to street driving.
My Jeep has an old school pre airbag Jeep wheel and I don’t care where it is.
Post by: mr.mindless on February 18, 2019, 12:20:49 AM
I miss license plates and 40s.
Post by: Callelle on February 18, 2019, 07:15:50 AM
That being said, I ordered a new axle side mount, gonna see where I can work that in to fix track bar/drag link length issues, and hopefully I can use the original track bar bracket as a mount for the assist ram.
Post by: Callelle on February 24, 2019, 02:16:16 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on February 24, 2019, 04:00:21 PM
also do you have misalignment spacers, or sometimes you can cheat and clearance the bolts, add cone washers ect...
Post by: Callelle on February 24, 2019, 04:45:17 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 24, 2019, 04:52:20 PM
i guess i still would like to steer in a jump or in a hill assault when the front end is light close to limit but again, mostly ignored in 99% of any trail rig use.
Post by: Wingman on February 24, 2019, 05:19:30 PM
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html
Post by: Callelle on February 24, 2019, 05:47:43 PM
Something like this would help, no?
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html
I've already got heims for the steering and what not, I don't really want to spend another $500 on a different steering set up unless I have to.
Post by: Wingman on February 24, 2019, 05:50:05 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 24, 2019, 06:11:01 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 24, 2019, 06:59:51 PM
Something to keep the tie rod from rolling freely is needed when you tie the drag link to it. Some ways are breed than others - the Hack Shack rigs both run what I might consider the worst possible incarnation of it that I’ve seen but it works a charm. There’s just a tab off the top of the tie rod above the heim. It keeps the tie rod from rolling and it works. Proper loading and wear be damned.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 24, 2019, 07:48:13 PM
cant wait to see another 1 ton XJ hawging on the trail!
Post by: Callelle on February 24, 2019, 08:11:26 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2019, 03:25:04 PM
Post by: Callelle on February 25, 2019, 05:31:28 PM
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Post by: Callelle on March 04, 2019, 10:06:23 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190304/232069c047af523c3d81df4e74d2d6e8.jpg)
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Post by: M4wdFab on March 04, 2019, 12:48:33 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 04, 2019, 01:16:20 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 04, 2019, 01:34:17 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 04, 2019, 01:42:51 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 04, 2019, 02:55:20 PM
the more up you have, the better it'll ride. I'd expect to see 2" to fender at full stuff, leading to zero or minus a half at full twist? You may need to limit droop to keep shaft angles happy too, that can certainly be a thing on occasion depending on geometry.
Post by: Callelle on March 04, 2019, 03:45:35 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 04, 2019, 04:02:38 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 05, 2019, 09:31:56 AM
I maintain that the high steer arm is not needed and making things closer to pan than they need to be. But, it’s all speculation until you do what I suggested above.
I ran 37s at 4.5†lift with 2-3†of up travel and did not have oil pan clearance issues even running a flat, non-drop Waggy arm and TB mount much closer to the body than yours.
Post by: TrailTamer on March 05, 2019, 09:54:40 AM
IMHO a true cross over steering with drag link as close to parallel to ground as possible at ride height is the way to go for on a street driven rig.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 05, 2019, 11:18:24 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 05, 2019, 11:56:04 AM
I did 2" up for a while and it was murder. I don't remember what I had later in dakota's life but that 2" was just absolutely awful.
Post by: Harrison on March 05, 2019, 12:09:20 PM
You will definitely be sky high if you want 5†of up in an XJ with 37s that actually gets flexed.
Post by: Wingman on March 05, 2019, 01:35:18 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 05, 2019, 02:27:06 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 05, 2019, 02:31:25 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 05, 2019, 02:50:56 PM
full disclosure: I'm completing nothing other than boring DD maintenance/neglect. I'll just keep throwing stones while the buggy quietly rusts in the garage with tcase and spare mount and maybe fuel system issues, still in need of a looser converter and tuning.
Post by: Callelle on March 05, 2019, 02:54:31 PM
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Post by: Callelle on March 10, 2019, 05:56:50 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/46cd61573355790be7740a74dd344161.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/b602ea79938ff8df11c0242af462b18e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/5e6f924629e4f105a140c511afd6612b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/3a48ac435d6f2ecd30dbe876aa111c99.jpg)
Totally Safe ::)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/5ca718f95ad1b331a38530188875114e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/55a0e4701feaae2b97378ce6083f131f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/257d293ffce2b83caaa7ab05f53f0eb9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/57d97abe4c9d47745d1fde1e99626aec.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190310/db25f22ec003405c948e108adb3a8ca3.jpg)
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Post by: Callelle on March 10, 2019, 06:06:17 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 10, 2019, 07:57:52 PM
Post by: Callelle on March 10, 2019, 08:38:16 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 10, 2019, 09:36:00 PM
mind that for sure.
Post by: Callelle on March 10, 2019, 10:32:59 PM
full passenger up, driver down. pinion doesn't rotate up at all. exceeds max joint angle at pinion if you have good down travel.
mind that for sure.
It'll be something I have to keep an eye on when I try it. If it does cause issues I'll have to move the upper mount on the long arm, it interferes enough that the pinion wont even spin at full driver's stuff.
Post by: Callelle on March 31, 2019, 10:27:25 PM
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Post by: Callelle on April 06, 2019, 07:41:47 PM
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Post by: Wingman on April 06, 2019, 08:34:03 PM
The spacers on the frame side should handle the little bit of misalignment that will be present through the travel.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 06, 2019, 09:11:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 07, 2019, 02:04:21 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 07, 2019, 08:23:05 PM
Head to the coil, not but. Thin it/round it. Down the hatch.
You watching too much Letterkenny?
Post by: Callelle on April 07, 2019, 08:26:02 PM
Head to the coil, not but. Thin it/round it. Down the hatch.
This just gives me the same problem but in reverse, I'd have to move the mount back further because the nut would still be contacting the drag link.
Can you modify the axle track bar mount so that it is notched in providing the space needed for the nut and shorten or eliminate the misalignment spacers on that end (I think it is important to keep the shoulders of the helm butted up against he bracket to eliminate slop)?
The spacers on the frame side should handle the little bit of misalignment that will be present through the travel.
I'm gonna give this a shot, I'll have to make a mount from scratch. I have some "narrow misalignment" spacers from an idea of using my old frame side bracket that should work. I can't run it without a spacer as I don't have a 7/8" drill bit for the full size of the heim joint. Worst comes to worst I move it over to the driver's side and shorten the track bar some, after talking to some other people it doesn't seem to nearly be as bad of an issue as I thought it was going to be.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2019, 12:01:28 AM
Down the hatch.
You watching too much Letterkenny?
Just enough.
Post by: Callelle on April 22, 2019, 11:41:48 AM
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Post by: Wingman on April 22, 2019, 12:10:05 PM
Post by: Callelle on April 22, 2019, 01:04:29 PM
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Post by: Callelle on April 25, 2019, 09:55:28 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on April 25, 2019, 11:45:05 AM
I feel your pain, I found a ton of thin spots with needle scaler.
Post by: Callelle on April 27, 2019, 08:52:15 PM
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Post by: Callelle on May 12, 2019, 08:23:14 PM
Post by: Callelle on June 03, 2019, 12:12:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2019, 03:55:41 PM
Automotive pitman arm pullers are universally trash. Big 2 jaw puller is where it’s at. Hopefully it fits.
Post by: Callelle on June 03, 2019, 04:19:58 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2019, 10:31:31 PM
Post by: Callelle on June 04, 2019, 06:39:03 AM
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Post by: TrailTamer on June 04, 2019, 01:17:42 PM
I’m pretty sure I have a piece of pipe for this, and I have a bearing separator too. Lmk if you’ll like to borrow.
By the way master ball joint adapters kit double as bearing press adapters lol.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2019, 01:46:54 PM
i do have full setup bearings for any and every axle i would ever work on also.
Post by: TrailTamer on June 04, 2019, 05:35:07 PM
Big 2 jaw puller is where it’s at. Hopefully it fits.
i have this one. work excellent, zero deflection whatsoever. pricey to buy new tho
(https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/CJ119B.jpg)
https://store.snapon.com/Pitman-Arm-Pullers-Puller-Pitman-Arm-Domestic-Cars-Light-Trucks--P635355.aspx
Post by: Callelle on June 04, 2019, 08:14:53 PM
i use harbor freight chisels to press bearings on and off. no issues ever. with all things involving a hammer, you cant been a moron.
i do have full setup bearings for any and every axle i would ever work on also.
how do you press them on with chisels? Don't you want/need equal pressure around it?
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2019, 11:05:50 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 05, 2019, 10:09:59 AM
its a hardened steel bearing race that does not give a single fuck about what you are doing to it compared to any materials around it
Are you saying you tap it around in a circle? Press fit stuff usually likes to get loaded pretty straight, usually I just take a piece of tube with ID/OD that lands on the inner race and send it home with a hammer or use the press.
Post by: Callelle on June 10, 2019, 12:19:27 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 10, 2019, 01:17:16 PM
its a hardened steel bearing race that does not give a single fuck about what you are doing to it compared to any materials around it
Are you saying you tap it around in a circle? Press fit stuff usually likes to get loaded pretty straight, usually I just take a piece of tube with ID/OD that lands on the inner race and send it home with a hammer or use the press.
get it started and hit it with a chissel, if it get stuck, hit it 180 from that point. usually pinion heads for aftermarket like 4.88 or 5.38 on most axles are small enough you can do the same for bearing removal. stock big pinion heads you need multiple chisels in another prioritary process to remove pinion bearings :)
i dont like those pullers that evenly pull on the cage. Erik and Brett have them i believe.
Post by: Harrison on June 10, 2019, 02:17:49 PM
Dan has had one of these for years. Not sure if that’s what you mean. I think it’s the tits.
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=5277
Post by: M4wdFab on June 10, 2019, 02:45:33 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 11, 2019, 02:43:37 PM
Got it.
Dan has had one of these for years. Not sure if that’s what you mean. I think it’s the tits.
https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=5277
I learned quick after a few of cages blown apart and rollers scattered across the bench. That happen from user error.
I love mine.
Post by: Callelle on July 14, 2019, 11:33:23 PM
First off, and probably the biggest thing, is that I'm losing my shop. Even though I've been off on my own for a while, mom decided she wasn't interested in the house being by herself, put it up for sale, and accepted a good offer. While this is great for her, it's not so good for me. When she told me about her accepting the offer, I was told I had 6 weeks to get my Jeep done and my shop packed and moved out. To most people, that would probably be plenty of time to finish re-assembly, but I'm not most people. First off, the original axle shafts wouldn't fit into the locker, even after getting some replacement side gears. I even tried a friends spare shafts and they wouldn't fit. Cora recommended that I should get new shafts, because of the age of the original ones, they could have been just different enough to be causing the issue. After some hesitation over money, I decided to commit and got a set of chromoly yukon shafts, 35 spline outers, and Yukon hardcore hubs. They were something I planned on doing next winter anyway and I was running out of time and options. Along with that, I was / am having issues with the drag link binding at full droop. My links are pretty much flat while at ride height but it seems like they run out of travel awfully quick. I have some ideas as to what it could be and how to remedy it, I have to do some testing to know for sure, but I may just throw some limit straps on it and deal with it for now. I've also had some issues with brake parts that I didn't know about slowing down assembly such as the caliper guide pin bolt missing, of which was never there to begin with because today when I went to install it, the remains of the shaft were still in there.
Anyway, today she finally sat on all 4 wheels on her own weight. The "to do" list is slowly getting shorter and shorter. What I figure I have left to do is run the brake lines and bleed, install the front driveshaft, order and install rear shocks, get the steering sorted (may be putting assist on hold depending on time just to get it mobile), secure the gas tank in the back, finish welding the steering/trackbar links, and paint the 60. Although it seems like a short list, as of now, I've got 2 weeks to finish it AND pack the shop up. Should be fun, fingers crossed ::)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190715/45711304d002550bec54e951e2b9a089.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190715/363bad3a1fc1ee2c8eaf9ea11c65938d.jpg)
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Post by: Wingman on July 15, 2019, 08:20:07 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 15, 2019, 08:45:58 AM
Post by: Callelle on July 21, 2019, 08:54:37 PM
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Post by: Callelle on July 30, 2019, 11:49:29 AM
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/77421794744b2e1f2bb9337017fa490c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/667eb0b6adf0971ab5b718aba90f6460.jpg)
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Post by: cracker on July 30, 2019, 12:18:51 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 30, 2019, 12:30:30 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 30, 2019, 01:06:51 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 30, 2019, 01:08:08 PM
dont be afraid to get long hydro hoses and run them all the way up the links and then back forward to keep them out of harms way. if you dont know about surplus center check them out 15-25$ hoses any size. my car has all 3 90" hoses that i run with and on board spare to fit any place.
Post by: Callelle on July 30, 2019, 08:03:38 PM
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Post by: Callelle on August 08, 2019, 08:00:11 PM
Got her red 2020 sticker today, twisted things up on the lift while I have it to check over everything. Fenders need to be trimmed more in the front, so that's an easy fix. The rear rubs on a smooth flat part of the cage so I'm unconcerned about that, 39s will require some cage modification and comp cut in the rear. Until then, I think she's ready to go. Shake down at the club picnic and rausch the weekend after. I can't wait. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190809/7efaf361ab3df2a913563db85903b538.jpg)
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Post by: Harrison on August 08, 2019, 09:03:37 PM
Post by: Callelle on September 06, 2019, 01:41:08 PM
I was very happy with how this thing performed at rausch/aoaa, even with the breakage. Starting plans for a few small winter projects: New seats and 5 point harnesses, rebuild king pins and get a good high steer arm to fix binding issue for more down travel, possibly pulling drive line to plate inside of frame rails and clean up nastyness. Maybe gonna start seeing about bigger, stickier tires, though I was impressed with the 37" toyos I have now.
Post by: TrailTamer on September 06, 2019, 03:10:01 PM
Track bar bracket and frame rail borked
what did you do? I somewhat been expecting similar problem on my XJ but it's still going on strong after few trips to AOAA/RC and 10k miles of daily driving and zero issue, whatsoever.
Post by: Callelle on September 06, 2019, 03:41:49 PM
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Post by: Callelle on October 02, 2019, 08:01:29 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 02, 2019, 09:26:51 AM
Post by: Callelle on October 17, 2019, 02:45:12 PM
Jeep is idling at 1500 rpm, won't shift out of 2nd. Most of this I'll probably ignore, I don't go beyond 2nd wheeling. The high idle would be nice to figure out.
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 17, 2019, 02:49:01 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 17, 2019, 02:52:59 PM
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Post by: Wingman on October 17, 2019, 03:49:30 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 17, 2019, 06:10:50 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 17, 2019, 06:43:56 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 17, 2019, 07:42:38 PM
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Post by: Harrison on October 18, 2019, 02:07:46 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 18, 2019, 02:37:51 PM
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Post by: Callelle on October 29, 2019, 08:56:57 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 29, 2019, 09:09:38 PM
Did you replace TPS? Did you see if anything was wet under the hood while it was happening?
Post by: M4wdFab on October 29, 2019, 09:15:32 PM
Post by: Callelle on October 29, 2019, 09:26:32 PM
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Post by: Callelle on October 30, 2019, 10:48:17 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 30, 2019, 11:10:09 AM
Post by: Callelle on December 13, 2019, 04:47:24 PM
I would like to get some new fixed seats, the ones mark has are a lot more comfortable than mine, we'll hav to see if it's in the cards for this winter.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191213/98f3a81184dad7d01073b1a86b70c0f0.jpg)
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Post by: Callelle on January 12, 2020, 05:48:31 PM
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Post by: Callelle on May 27, 2020, 07:35:32 PM
Got the passenger seat in, have to make some new brackets for the driver side.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/34c685a9c3df75d4520fd003d8345222.jpg)
Also got the knuckles taken apart. Used a trick my friend told me where you cut around the kingpins about a 1/16" over where they meet the inner C, then you hit the top of them with a hammer. This deflects the little bit that is left and takes the load off of threads and I was able to spin them out with a normal box wrench.
Ran into a couple issues though, snapped 2 of the bolts on the bottom cover on one side and didn't have any torches to aid in getting them out. My friend is gonna take them to work and clean the grease up and get the broken bolts and studs out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/4ae7eea7a025b030d3b5808ee4997531.jpg)
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Post by: Callelle on June 08, 2020, 09:50:05 PM
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Post by: Callelle on August 01, 2020, 01:44:16 PM
Post by: Callelle on August 30, 2020, 05:04:36 PM