M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 02:24:38 PM
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I figure I will keep a thread going on here so I can tap into this wealth of knowledge. ;D
Plans:
Ball Joint D60 front, 4.10s, lunchbox. Narrow 4" to 65" WMS. Keep my current 3 link.
C&C 14B rear (63" WMS), 4.10s, welded, simple 13 bolt shave. Chevy 3/4 ton discs.
Picked up a set of 36" Swampers on pre-Superduty Ford factory 8 lug aluminum wheels for cheap. Will run those until I'm sick of the ground clearance, then upgrade to something larger and regear to 5.38 down the road.
This is going to be a very budget minded build. The main objective is to get my Jeep into harder terrain without fear of breaking front shafts like it's my job. For where I'd like to be next year, 44/8.8 would have probably suited my purposes well, but I don't plan to stay there so tons it is. I'm hoping 36's, 4.10s, and 6.36:1 low ratio will be doable for a while (math says it should be close to where I'm at now).
I don't have many pictures to post, I'm hoping starting this thread will motivate me to do something in regards to this project that's worth of photographing.
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First off... Smike mentioned re-splining shafts is relatively cheap. It appears that I have non-neckdown shafts so I'm hoping this is possible.
Does anyone have any idea where I could take/send my long side to have 4" whacked off and splines put back on?
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weld the front, spend the locker money on 35 spline outers and drive slugs
do some bushmechanic welding and plate your ford nuckles
dont bother with shaving, thats what wheeling is for.
with your goals a stock form 60 is pretty stout, but seems like the WNO guys that run tons on 37"s ish at big dogs break more ford knuckles that shafts.
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I'm keeping plates on this hog, so it's either welded front and lockouts or locker and drive flanges. Spencer found a dude on Pirate selling Lockrights for $305 or something.
Barnes4x4 sells a 14b cover that's pre-shaved. You cut off the bottom to match it, weld a plate on and call it a day. I watched Ryan wedge his lip a couple times at Big Dogs with 40"s...
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yes,the ford knucks are notorious for breaking (read: i bought an axle and didnt look close enough and the driver side is cracked :mad3:). it seems that generally that is when you are running high steer though, and he has BJs
we are both keeping them on the road. so locker + drive flanges or welded +lockouts would be needed.
i'm going with welded and lockouts now because its cheaper. when i gear i'll go to locker and flanges.
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thoughts:
Hope the lockouts are schrong, welded is lots more stress on them (cumulative time-wise) than a locker since it never unloads. unlocking is probably a two person job too to saw the wheel back n forth to unload the splines.
balljoint knuckles don't fail as often it seems. and with low steel my Ford KPs have been "fine" so far
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Hope the lockouts are schrong
35 spline warn premiums?
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you know I broke one... :shrug:
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special case
8)
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weld the front, spend the locker money on 35 spline outers
This. And lockouts. With spares. = cheap fuse.
Or change to slugs for wheeling trips.
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Hmmm. I was planning to run a lunchbox on the stock 30 spline outers and stock lockouts. I was thinking it was reasonable to run them with 36s. I have no interest in running 35 spline lockouts, so when I do that upgrade it will be getting drive flanges.
Who has broke a 30 spline outer? What size tires were you running? I tore the 60 down last night and must say I was not impressed with the outers when I laid one of my many broken D30 shafts next to it...
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i cant imagine you will have any issues with stock shafts, new joints and 36"s
i ran stock shafts on my CJ5 and the buggy for a while with <200hp 42"s
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I think I will stick with the lunchbox plan then for street manners. I will leave it until last to order and if Big Dogs is around the corner and I need the money for gas... The welder may come out.
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Tires. $275 for all four on rims.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Looks like a score on the tires.
I forgot you guys aren't doing 38s+, even stock 30sp outers and lockouts will probably be fine.
I broke both my 30sp outers at once doing a front dig. First shafts I broke, stock inners lasted a long time after that.
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Any ideas on shortening a 60 shaft? Or just go custom chromo inner?
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There's one shop I know and I will NEVER do business with them again.
I bet Doug at Extreme knows who to talk to.
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i still am against shorting axles
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
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Vic has a splining machine
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i still am against shorting axles
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
Any reason other than added time/cost? I'm planning on an afternoon and an additional $200 at most. I was thinking it would allow me to stay somewhat narrow without limiting myself to two wheel options.
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Vic has a splining machine
Who's Vic?
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Wider is better, font you remember the commercials
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Any reason other than added time/cost?
unique parts that NEED to be made that stock replacements will never be found at a junkyard for is what I'd assume
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i still am against shorting axles
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
Sorry Smike. I was so busy disregarding women and acquiring currency I forgot to take your advice. Hahahahaha
[attachment deleted by admin]
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I think something fell off there?
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More things happened.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Time to sweep the floor yet? :o
Looking good!
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Doesn't really look like it, I can still see concrete.
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looks like time for a blue box soon :)
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go to Harbor Freight and pick up a needle scaler for ~$50.. they are awesome for knocking off scaley rust in places that are hard to get a grinder into..
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looks like time for a blue box soon :)
You hating on my stick welds?
I've been looking though. I only have 220v stick/TIG capabilities. Your dual voltage MIG is a nice machine...
go to Harbor Freight and pick up a needle scaler for ~$50.. they are awesome for knocking off scaley rust in places that are hard to get a grinder into..
Good idea... I've used them before but didn't think about it.
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I wanna get a needler.
And I like your stick work there!
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Thanks Mike. Root pass with 6010 and a cover with 7018 if anyone was wondering.
I should snap a pic of the factory weld I cut off. No penetration at the root and a decent amount of porosity. It erased any doubt I had about how my welds would hold up!!
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Got some trimming to do. Yep, those are 14b spindles in there. Buying more jackstands tomorrow and getting the 60 slung under.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Sure do the easy one first. And don't you own a power washer? I hate working on dirty junk. :-X
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I hate working on dirty junk. :-X
me too!!
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I spy an XJ...
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/IMAG0916.jpg)
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I do not have a pressure washer, and Rausch mud does not yield to a garden hose.
Both axles are out so I can turn them into currency. I really didn't want both ends on stands so I just clamped the 14b in using the Ruff Stuff swap kit.
The 60 would be sitting in place as well had I not run out of stands.
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Ok, been pecking away at this and finally got to a point where it seemed worthy to take some pics.
Really happy with how it's going so far. Trackbar mounts on both ends are not done, but I wanted to get something on so I could see how it all worked together. Oil pan is mighty close to kissing the trackbar at full bump. Might need to bumpstop a little more and get stiffer springs. These are whooped, I was hitting the bumps cruising green trails at Rausch.
Finish up trackbar mounts, weld in the threaded bungs, and fabrication on the front will be close to done. Need to order locker, shortened shaft and rebuild parts still.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/eqyhu2es.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/ty4ynamy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/anubuzap.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/uhy5yvug.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/yru7a9un.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/4umy2uru.jpg)
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put a little bend in the track bar?
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put a little bend in the track bar?
Maybe, but that's last resort. I would worry about it clunking around with heims on both ends. I need to add a little more bumpstop anyway to keep my shocks from bottoming when it flexes.
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60 is ready for paint.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/unuduqu2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/dyqyba9a.jpg)
The TRE flip inserts required me to shave some meat off the arm on the knuckle so I wrapped some 1/4" around them to beef them up.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/myra7una.jpg)
Scored a used Lockright for $200. Once that is installed and the 60 is painted, it will be going under for the last time.
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..., it will be going under for the last time.
:-X
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:-X
I was expecting a comment on the condition of the floor from you. ;D
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Sorry... Don't you ever sweep?
How's that? ;D
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looks like the inside of his jeep ;D
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looks like the inside of his jeep ;D
Kinda looks like my whole life hahaha
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In my Jeep parts trading, I came across someone who is interested in unloading one of these:
http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-1012-1.htm
He said price would be negotiable, had it up for $800 and no one wanted it.
What do you guys, especially those with tube experience think? I was thinking I would tie it into my tube rockers and tie them to my stiffeners. Eventually make the tube extend out to the front and tie into the front bumper and unibody plating. Also, make a halo that the follows the roof line on the outside.
Or buy a bender.
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Strip your interior out and drop it off to M4.
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Strip your interior out and drop it off to M4.
Thought about that. But I'm in the wrong state, and I wanna do it myself... or at least be able to participate haha
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weld in,half the price and a good start
http://www.dandcextreme.com/product_template.asp?pkID=126
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Once I have the custom inner I can finish assembling the front. Placing a Summit order Friday and all parts will be had to finish the rear.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/10/u3amypu3.jpg)
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I missed this
Looks good. I love the high roller paint job!
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/16/epedajeq.jpg)
Fun.
Since the 1/4" side to side the caliper slides will be the difference between the banjo hitting my leafs and not... It will be slid all the way to the left in this pic, correct? Seems like that will be the way it moves when the piston pushes out. Might be able to shave a little off the banjo head...
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What's a leaf? :o
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thats what you get for running that narrow shit :flipoff2:
looks good. caliper will move to the right as the outer pad gets worn. keep that in mind.
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Sorry I don't want the trackwidth of an H1 on my XJ :P
It looks like the banjo will interfere with the leafs about 1/8". I think I might be able to do some creative grinding to deal with that.
Someone suggest u-bolt elminators to deal with the caliper bolt removal issue, wish I had thought of that before I half welded the perches on.
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could you clock the caliper bracket the other direction for better leaf clearance?
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could you clock the caliper bracket the other direction for better leaf clearance?
Tried, perches are nearly square with the bracket bolt pattern so it's close to symetrical. Essentially gains me nothing.
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A caliper with a top banjo like the Ford twins have would be mighty nice.
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are our purches burned in yet? just squeek them in 3/8"s on both sides
it will be fine
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Re drilling the holes on the brackets, found a sweetspot where it all works.
Smike, do you have any connections on Solid diff covers?
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yes, and i am about to order a bunch of shit-
you need front and rear 60 covers?
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Awesome! 60 front, 14b rear please! Lemme know what I owe you.
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man they are cheap, even 65$ on the site.
my freaking cart is at 2K right now- waiting to here from Matt G if he wants to blow real coin also.
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blow real coin
$130 on diff covers! High roller! They just offer you a discount on whatever you plunk in your cart? Just wondering about discount, if it's not much I'll just ordermyself. They are cheap
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i will let you know if i dont hear from him tonight or tomorrow ill call-
Matt and i just placed a 3K order in an email-
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Look at those new parts Arie!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/enebuda7.jpg)
Front done.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/dybumu6a.jpg)
New dilemma about spending money I don't have: will I be pissed at myself in a year for splurging on new 37s?
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BLING!
Hey can I get a pic of the lower bump stop / coil retainer setup?
Keep in mind 37s = new wheels too
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I'm aware of the wheel situation...
The bumpstops are nothing more than hockey pucks on top of the coil retainer the brackets came with. They sit 98% flat when you tighten them down.
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more trimming required...
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more trimming required...
Definitely, even to run these 36s.
40s means gears, 35spl outers, shortside chromo inner... cage... all stuff I should do but was thinking I could get away without on a smaller (relative) tire. For a while.
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bomb proof on 36's sounds fun
it will self trim for 40's after this year :)
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bomb proof on 36's sounds fun
;D I'm looking forward to it. A lot.
I'm not expecting much from these tires though. Was trying to decide how quickly I wanted to be on 40s. I'm sorta hoping 3-4" more tire and real axles would keep me satisfied for a while, but I also know myself. :-\
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i will let you know if i dont hear from him tonight or tomorrow ill call-
What's the deal with the covers? I will be in town for the night on Feb 16th
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thanks for reminder- i will call right now!
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thanks for reminder- i will call right now!
Great! Let me know! Thanks
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ordered an on there way- dont think i did much better at 50$ a cover, so either way let me know or ill hang on to them if thats easier for you to just get them on your own.
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Dammit, miscommunication from Spencer and I ordered them myself. $150 shipped, oh well.
Do you have any use for them? I know Spencer needs a front cover...
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no problem- probably my fault i didnt think we were going to get back with him- thought they were only 54$ on the website?
happy to stock them, you can never have enough solid diff covers!
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$65/piece on the site, $20 shipping.
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i'll take the d60
14b is no good to me unless i want a 2" super fast drain plug on the bottom ;D
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http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/3617997518.html
Do these work?
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PITA to install i hear, and most racers dont have the tolerance for them, but yes thats an awesome price- you probably can flip them even
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Thought seemed cheap. I'll do a little research.
http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/3548781848.html
Also those... Beadlocks and useable tires. Could probably recoup close to half that selling what I have. Buy 38-40" Creepies eventually. I'm worried the radial TSLs I have now are going to really bring the suck... Even more than Iroks will.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/11/ja4ere4e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/11/a7yhegu2.jpg)
Left to do:
Lengthen front driveshaft
Rear axle shock mounts
Runs like shit
Setup rear bumpstops
Ãœber squishy brake pedal
Not sure if the brake pedal is bleeding or stock master related. Going to bleed again, by I'm guessing I just need a master with a larger bore.
After those things
Make doubler stop popping out of gear
Rebuild belly skid
Trim and hack to make tires fit
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That trimming part looks important.
Stance is nice, I like the wheels.
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I like the heart.
FIFY
;D
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Front needs washer bottle removed and fenders trimmed as much as possible. Rear will probably get trimmed/hammered a little more and bumpstopped pretty aggressively.
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I like the heart.
FIFY
;D
Ha yeah, Hannah snuck that in somewhere between install the diff covers ;D
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I like the wheels also, what are they?
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Wheels are stock 16" Ford
Probably looking to get into beadlocks ASAP. Thought about welding aluminum rings on these.
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Left to do:
Lengthen front driveshaft
Rear axle shock mounts DONE
Runs like shit O2 sensor heater circuit fuse blown from MIA downstream sensor, FIXED
Setup rear bumpstops 3/8 plate setup on leaf pads, DONE
Ãœber squishy brake pedal new master installed, SWEET.
After those things:
Trim and hack to make tires fit
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Sweeeeeet!
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Sweeeeeet!
Pretty much my feeling, thanks. Jeep, truck, and trailer are all getting a pre-BIG DOGS shakedown up in Mass this weekend.
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Took this hog for a ride down the road last night. It's a got a couple noises and clunks it didn't before, but all in all not too bad. I am pleased.
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Very cool can't wait to see it in a week and a half
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specs on the red 2 door tahoe/yukon?
I used to have one, I miss it :'(
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It's actually a 94 2500 Burb. Big block, barn doors. Roomie's tow rig.
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Got this thing out on some rocks today, didn't do too bad for a shakedown. Definitely was not pushing the limit though. The front locker works about 50% of the time. I did not reuse the side washers per the instructions PDF I found online, but I'm guessing that may have been a mistake. Rear driveshaft is also fully compressing so I plan to add an inch of lift and another half inch of bumpstop.
Should be a reasonable amount to get done before the 24th. I was able to get the fenders trimmed up some more Saturday and all seems well there, no significant rubbing other than on the links.
Couple pics from today.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030586_zpsf0616aa0.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030586_zpsf0616aa0.jpg.html)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030639_zpsc7d9c512.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030639_zpsc7d9c512.jpg.html)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030696_zps5af63e1e.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030696_zps5af63e1e.jpg.html)
It was good to be out!!!
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Noice!!
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Short shakedown list. That's great!
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The front locker works about 50% of the time. I did not reuse the side washers per the instructions PDF I found online, but I'm guessing that may have been a mistake.
So glad I thought saving $150 by buying used was a good idea. Anyone have any insight on this? It is a NO-SLIP which is apparently a little different than the Lockright/Aussie design. The PDF I got says to remove the thrust washers, and says nothing about reinstalling them:
http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/8221003.pdf
Steps 9, 10 and 15, 16. I actually tried to install the drive gears with the thrust washers in and it would not fit. I realize that sometimes you need to clearance the carrier a little to make them fit though. I suppose the first thing I need to do is find out what the dimensions of their 'test block' (step 32) is. Bah
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It's been too long ago for me to remember my No-slip install in a D35.
Call or email tech support and ask your questions. I'm sure they'd be helpful.
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Might do that, at least to get the dimensions of the test block.
This came out of a GM 60, same part number is listed for Ford/Chevy on the Powertrax site. They do have a different listing for limited slip though, but it seems to me the LS locker would be smaller?
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How much would a welded front (just spiders so I can get a locker in later) suck without hydro steering? On smallish tires and high backspacing?
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i ran my scrambler with 42" tires and a welded diff with a stock CJ power box and what i was told sketchy tie rod angles and things
it was fine
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good luck cutting spiders out so that you can get a lunchbox in later. I'd say don't count on it.
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Mostly just worried about being able to turn, period.
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sell your sole for a locker now and avoid mucho hassel 2X
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sell your sole for a locker now and avoid mucho hassel 2X
This was my first thought. I spent two hours of axle disassembly time tracking down what ended up being a bad engine-chassis ground on my car so it would start last night, awesome. I will check clearances tonight. If they are out, I think it's worth a shot to get them back in and hope for the best. Else, I will order a new locker.
Lesson frickin learned.
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when your rippin down the access trails it gets a little sketchy lol. But its fine on the trail, I'd do it again in a second.
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when your rippin down the access trails it gets a little sketchy lol. But its fine on the trail, I'd do it again in a second.
Even pre-hydro? Hmm...
Smike, do you have any connections on lunchbox lockers?
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Yeah I was welded for 2 years before hydro. I just unlocked the front when needed.
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no locker connections, bill doesnt make a 60 yet.
lock right has treated the dakota well and i think they are priced ok
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sell your sole
fucking shoes
;D
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lock right has treated the dakota well and i think they are priced ok
yup
sell your sole
fucking shoes
/me likes this
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i meant sell everything including the dirt you stand on! duh!
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Build your credit! lol
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Spec is .140-.170. I'm at .160
I unmeshed both side gears. Held the driver hub while spinning the driveshaft. Pass side teeth would lock right up, drivers side just glide over each other. If I spin the driveshaft in reverse, they lock right up. That's pretty consistent with what I experienced wheeling Sunday. Staying locked after that was iffy, sometimes resulted in unlocking with banging noises.
What would cause that cam gear to not align the teeth? Worn teeth? Worn center pin? Weak springs? It's not like they even tried to lock, just glided over each other like they weren't aligning. Meh
Seriously considering wedging a piece of metal in between the cam gears and welding in place in such a manner that would be easy to remove later... When I buy a new locker. If steering blows cruising around, rock unlocked hubs until I get on the trail.
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loco CJ has a front D60 welded with NO hydro. We just bumped up the power steering pump pressure. He used to drive it on the road.
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Seems like you have time to order the new locker and get it put in... ???
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Thanks Gif, good info. A friend made the same suggestion about boosting the power steering pressure. I think that's what I'm going to do.
Mark... I do have time but this and DB3 have been rather financially abusive in the last few weeks and I still need to get to VA and back! That $350-400 would be coming out of my oh shit fund. I'd rather just weld it for now if it will work.
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there is no more permanent solution than a temporary fix
;D
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I do have time but this and DB3
you have an aston martin?
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Wrong crowd
Dump bus 3
They can be almost as expensive as an Aston though!
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I'd still rather have a DB than an Aston!!!
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/18/vu2a7aty.jpg)
Spooled front done. Get some more lift/bumpstop in the rear and the rest is cake.
As far as boosting steering power steering, I read that drilling out the orifice sends more volume, shimming puts more pressure on the relief valve spring and increases pressure. Seems that I'd be looking for pressure more than volume?
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http://comancheclub.com/topic/6649-ps-pump-modification/
Looks like I can skip the drilling out part and get either the #4 or 3mm washer to put inside the regulator under the spring.
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http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/708701-best-power-steering-pump-modifications-pressure-flow.html
yes, you want pressure.
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what did you do to that locker?
is that a lockright?
probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims?
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what did you do to that locker?
is that a lockright?
probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims?
It is a No-Slip, supposed to be a quieter and smoother version of a Lockright.
Spec is .140-.170. I'm at .160
I unmeshed both side gears. Held the driver hub while spinning the driveshaft. Pass side teeth would lock right up, drivers side just glide over each other. If I spin the driveshaft in reverse, they lock right up. That's pretty consistent with what I experienced wheeling Sunday. Staying locked after that was iffy, sometimes resulted in unlocking with banging noises.
What would cause that cam gear to not align the teeth? Worn teeth? Worn center pin? Weak springs? It's not like they even tried to lock, just glided over each other like they weren't aligning. Meh
Seriously considering wedging a piece of metal in between the cam gears and welding in place in such a manner that would be easy to remove later... When I buy a new locker. If steering blows cruising around, rock unlocked hubs until I get on the trail.
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how did the cross pin look? was there 4 marks two on each side but opposing?
when you check them, the DS should be locked, and do the "spin test" hold one wheel back, turn the other forward, switch and repeat all 4 directions.
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The crosspin did not show any visible wear. Did the spin test before wheeling on Sunday, passed without issue. The test I did was to simulate driveshaft spinning with resistance on the driver's tire... and it showed the same results I experienced Sunday with teeth not engaging.
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#4 washer and orifice drilled to 5/32 blows the end off the steering box.
Awesome
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:o
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Sounds messy.
I saved the steering box off the dump bus...
I bet the mounting pattern is bigger though, I don't have stock jeep/dak to compare to.
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(better here than there!!)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/22/2u8ybeqy.jpg)
Reid had a box from the frame donor TJ he got. It's in, washer removed, back together and running. No issues going lock to lock now. I locked the hubs and it seemed to steer fine. Wonder if smallish tires and lots of backspacing make it tolerable.
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Hmmm, would not have thought that would be a fail point. ???
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She dun straight blown up!
Good it did it pre BD
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that is a good trick!
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a direct bolt on and larger box is a 98-99 durango with the snopackage,iirc
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I have read about the Durango box, may do that. Steering power was very acceptable all weekend. Pitman issue us going to have me scratching my head, plan for now is to replace with a factory Waggy arm and see what happens.
Needs the D20 either rebuilt or replaced, new trans pan, exhaust unsquished from belhousing before wheeling again. Bonuses would be full rear crossmember for a full belly skid and D20 to mount to as well as a skid from the crossmember forward (like Smike builds for TJs) to protect trans pan, exhaust, and oil pan.
Overall, I am very pleased with how this thing performed this weekend. Being out with the buggies made me realize that putting my Jeep on 40s is not necessary because it is still not going to go where they go without a lot more power and a lot less body, two things I'm not interested in changing at this point. I would rather start over with something with a frame (frame on body with added tube or just a buggy) if I ever want to run 40s.
I really like the width I'm at, so I am going to scoop up my buddy's stock Ford steel wheels and weld beadlocks on them, throw my current 36s on. When they are chunked bad enough/get sliced open/I get sick of them and have cash I would like to spend good money on some 37s (blue labels, Creepies, maybe kevlar MTRs, something along those lines) and be done with it.
Tons are fucking awesome. ;D
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looks awesome. made my buggy look bad on insanity.
made nicks 30 look terrible on KGB
:) i like it
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Tons are fucking awesome. ;D
QFT!!!!!!!!!
this thing did work.
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(2) races, (2) bearings, (2) seals for a 1975 Bronco D20 are about $55.
Smike, based on your experience, is that likely all I need?
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i have never serviced, just bolted on used stuff from spare cases. seems like you could get another D20 for 50$ at least thats what there were back in my day of collecting them.
if the output shafts are hosed or galled up new bearings might not help.
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D300 and done..
but yes about what said and what smike said...
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Ok, guess I need to do some disassembly before I order anything.
Granted I haven't looked very hard, but I don't see many Bronco D20s on the market. My wanted ad on Pirate got deleted.
Why would I get a D300? The D20 is already twin stick and ACTUALLY a driver's drop case... no silly flipping required
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didnt know you were driver side drop...
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Yep, Bronco 20s are driver drop. It came with an Advance Adapters Jeep conversion and was bolted to a doubler. Works sweet, but was used hard for like 8 years or something before I got it.
Was hoping I could get parts here before the weekend, but whatever. I need to finish my truck and get it out of the garage first so I can get that thing in and figure out what it needs.
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ohh i know the broncos are DSD...
I just used some of the bronco sites for parts since they have nice catalog options... I though thats what you were doing..
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Gave the rear yoke nut 1/4 turn and that tightened up enough for me to consider it "ok". No such luck with the front yoke.
Got the front yoke and seal assy off:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/29/u5amebuh.jpg)
It doesn't come out like Smike described. I'm guessing I will also need to take this cover off:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/29/5u7u5e8u.jpg)
But that's not going to happen without either taking out the crossmember to drop everything a few inches or dropping the t-case altogether.
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i think there is just a snap ring behind that. ill pull the cover on the one i have at home tomorrow. i just looked at it. i also have a loose rear output assembly if you want it. my loose front assembly now that i think about it i gave to a kid a RC one weekend.
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My friend Chris (tan early Bronco) is making a run to some guy down in Philly with a ton of EB parts, said he'd grab a case for me if he had one. I'm considering throwing this back together, maybe removing a shim somewhere if I can? to tighten up that front output and rocking it one more weekend.
I'm lazy and am more interested in getting my WMO setup going right now haha ::)
We'll see how it goes
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Removed that back plate. There were shims that set the preload on the bearings on the front output. I removed the thinnest one and reinstalled, mint. Hopefully that will buy me some time.
Kinda unsquished exhaust from the front of transmission pan. Trans pan still has a big dent, might just leave it. Doubt I'll have time to build a skid before Rausch, but it's on the list.
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the dent improves clearance. less chance of damage now, it's fine!
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Nevermind, read the ad wrong
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New to me Waggy arm is holding straight and true. Guess I'll chock that up to bad manufacturing...?
No issues all weekend. Thing walks down Rock Creek like nothing now... almost too easy... almost 8)
Nothing like wedging a front tire and just using more gas.
Needs a rear crossmember to support the D20 and full belly skid. Needs trans/engine pan skid. Heims clunk. Shafts need to be ground for full circle clips and axle seals need replacing. Hydro assist would be nice.
Tires are chunking bad. They're hard and suck anyway. I may have a little cash coming my way... debating Creepies or MTRs. Creepies come in 16" and would therefore fit my current wheels. That's a plus.
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I'm also realzing that I need a cage. Preferrably sooner than later. Even if it's something basic for now to keep everything together and to be expanded on later.
Considering these options:
Strip your interior out and drop it off to M4.
weld in,half the price and a good start
http://www.dandcextreme.com/product_template.asp?pkID=126
Also, what are everyone's opinions on internal vs exo? There is something about building an exo around something with body damage that I don't like. Also not in love with the exo look. That being said, it's hard to deny their functionality. Another option would be an internal cage with a halo of some sort. Body is already getting kinda bad, and I almost wouldn't care if it looked like a Dakota as long as I knew it was structurally sound.
Meh
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Exo is great for rubbing on trees Done right they look great. The one on the samurai was awesome.
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Do an internal and plate the outside where it would rub, to keep glass in tact...
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hybrid. it's a unibody so you can do "both"
give it a halo and some rub rails below the back glass.
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I could be talked into a full exo if I was in the right mood. Sometimes it seems like the way to go with something that is only going to continue to grow and be pushed harder. Also seems like it would be easier to build.
Smike? Any thoughts from the master toob bender?
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The stars look like they could align...
Anyone have an opinion on Creepies vs MTRs?
MTRs are $200 cheaper a set, but Creepies will fit on my current wheels or the free 16" steelies I get from Troy.
I have a feeling the Creepies may be worth the money... probably closer to the sticky end of the spectrum. Since treadwear isn't a concern...
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if this thing sees any more than 10% road id go MTRs if this is trail duty id go creepys
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Don't settle. Go with your optimal choice and don't look back.
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10% road is probably about what it will see.
Leaning towards the Creepies.
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For the duty it sees I would do creepies.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/tybu6ysy.jpg)
Spicer'd and full circle'd. Also installed new axle seals I have little confidence I didn't ruin on install.
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Still can't get over the size of those joints. And the Spicers are BEEF
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Bah
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/nu4ededy.jpg)
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No good. Uni-body fail?
Time for cage.
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Blew front driveshaft off yoke. Need new u bolts. 571 attempted to extract rewards but rock I had been dragging wedged itself in between rear axle and has tank skid tore that crack. Plate for now, just a reminder I really do need a cage.
Also need new rear caliper, broke on the first obstacle of the weekend and wheeled with soft line clamped off.
Hoping weird noise I heard post driveshaft issue isn't ruined t-case.
Torquing from doubler is getting serious. Need crossmember for that.
Trans pan is more fucked. Need skid for that.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/dy6aru4a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/taruvuhe.jpg)
Rear plated on outside and underside. Plate on inside where crack is. Just reinstalled the gas tank and skid.
Left to do before returning to Rausch: rear caliper and transmission skid. Truck needs hitch installed.
Good weekend to have no plans, because this took all of it! Been a while since I spent a weekend immersed in metal burning world. Kinda fun :) but I'd kinda be OK never plating another unibody.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Who would have Creepies in stock as opposed to drop ship? Seem to be backordered almost everywhere.
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check ebay? verify with sellar
we could check with doug or campbell who have a maxxis hookup also
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Ebay no go.
4wp, Pirate vendor, 4x4 Group Buy all say the same: 1 in stock in Texas, backordered until begining of August. Going to keep trying find other places.
37x12.50r16
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/27/uruhugej.jpg)
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Beefy
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/06/jumupata.jpg)
Picked up heim steering, ram, lines, tapped box for $300 from a friend. He has a full width ball joint 60 so I just ordered new tube adapters and shortened. Traded covers with him since it mounts to the cover (counter sunk bolts.)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/06/yzu9ydeb.jpg)
Creepies. Still need to trim a little more.
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Damn, that's a lot of tire on a tinfoil box!
Tapatalking in traffic
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I got $5 on this looking like the Dakota in another year :)
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I got $5 on this looking like the Dakota in another year :)
Isn't that the goal? :P
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nice!
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I was thinking it would be "wrinkled" by now, actually. Must not have wheeled enough this year. Bah!
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"getting skinny"
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Anyone know the part number for the u joint u bolts we use when cutting down the 14b yoke to eliminate straps? Or remember what thread it was in
Looked through some of the threads from Spencer and I, can't find it
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Looks like Precision 330-10
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Is it not just a regular 1350 u-bolt?
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yes, standard 1350 ubolt.
Manufacturer: Spicer
Manufacturer Part No: 3-94-18X
Product Line: Strange U-Joint Girdles
Summit Racing Part Number: STR-U1610
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Google says the 330-10 and 3-94-18X are the same
I didn't feel confident that walking into the store and asking for a "1350 u bolt" would net good results
Thanks guys
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depends on what store, Fleet pride you can actually walk in and the guy even knows where they are on the shelf lol
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How do you like the creepy's so far?
With the wheels your running do they burp at all at low pressures, I see they're $388 a tire at 4wd right now.
DOT trps are only a few dollars more, just curious what you thought so far.
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This weekend will be my first time out with them. I have high expectations, we'll see if they live up to them. (I think they will.)
The guy I got them from was running them on 16x7 TJ Rubicon rims and said he broke a wheel smashing the tire into a stump (at low speed) with 5lbs in them. And the bead didn't break, just the wheel...
If you are close to ordering, call 4wp and ask if they are in stock. These were on national backorder until the begining of August when I tried to order in July. No idea if they still are, but I'm always weary of those estimated dates. Just talked to someone else this weekend who wanted to order some 40s and found them backordered, too.
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Thanks for the info.
Are those the older factory ford alcoa wheels?
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Yep, pre-superduty F250 wheels
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Few little things I need to tend to. I'd like it to be something I can feel ok driving a 30min radius. Doesn't need much to get there.
Transfercase needs a mount, doubler torque has things moving around a lot
Install stiffer detent in doubler to keep from popping out
Need spare driveshafts (current rear shaft is shot)
Replace lower link joints: $165 from Ruff Stuff, $175 for JJ???
Cage
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is there anything better than bonding steel with electricity? :)
Yes, there are. But very few things on the list ahead of it. 8)
Transfercase skidplate with integrated mount to prevent torquing from doubler. I'll get better pics with the mount when installed.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/7erysu2u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/ahymydeg.jpg)
Also pic of steering adapter from when I was doing the hydro assist.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/atezyqyp.jpg)
Stiffer detent in the doubler now, shifts feel much "crisper". Hoping between that and extra mount, I won't have anymore issues with it popping out of gear... assuming that was caused mostly by the drivetrain jumping around. I could see the D20 twinsticks moving back and forth as the drivetrain would load in F or R.
I can't wait to drive this thing to work again!!!
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Put a few miles on the road on this guy. 4.10s aren't cutting it. Needs gears this winter. Otherwise, not bad for what it is. And by that I mean drivable, but wouldn't want to very far.
Did some local wheeling today. Creepies are starting to really shine. Was on a 4ft+ wall and really heated them up. Backed up, bumped, walked up it. Seem to get better as they get used more. Very happy with the purchase.
Blew another rear driveshaft (at the furthest away point from tow rigs) and was FWDing back with a strap from rig ahead. Going around a turn, pass side loaded weird and popped either hub or stub. Guessing hub, will check tomorrow. Flanges and 35spl outers coming soon. Just missed the Solid order, dammit!
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actually i got tied up. got prices, but didnt place order. let me know if you want a set of slugs either kind
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Sweet, PM sent
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/01/nyhyma6y.jpg)
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again.
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I think that's Harry's first but Spencer, on the other hand... :o
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you still need 30 spline locking hub? I have one to unload
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you still need 30 spline locking hub? I have one to unload
Going flanges and 35spl, thanks though!!
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Chromo 35spl stubs and chromo short side inner ordered! Gonna be a chromo'd and drive flanged machine soon!!
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Does anyone have a good source for full circle clips?
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Going to try these I guess:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Snap-Rings-Basic-External-Retaining-Ring/_/R-SER1348_0293957739
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matt just ordered some for his super joints i believe
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/8e3uhatu.jpg)
Getting started
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Stand alone or integrated cage?
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Integrated. Staying inside and making as tight as possible to the roof. Tying to the pillars with plates. Tying feet to stiffeners/sliders.
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Good call.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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Do you have a picture of your jeep from the front showing how much tire is outside the body?
Or an outside of tire to tire measurement?
I just found a set of those alcoas with decent tires for $200, and I'm strongly considering it.
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i would guess they are 8" wide with 5" BS
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This is probably the best I have. I really like the width a lot. This is with a 65" wms width axle. With the 36" TSLs, it was 1" wider than it was with 33" TSLs and 3.75" backspacing on the D30. I'd guess the Creepies are pushing 1" wider on each side of those 36s I had (even though they are both 12.50s!)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/23/uqu3apeq.jpg)
Cage progress has been slow, life and work get in the way the important things too much. The dink in the middle is a little off, this was the first piece any of us have done in a long time. Hopefully the C pillar is right on and no one will ever know. Except for you guys.
Progress should be coming faster now.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/23/ajuzehep.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/25/zy6eqena.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/25/gyha8eve.jpg)
Keeping it nice and tight!
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lookin good
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kit or bending your own?
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Couple friends with previous cage building experience are getting into doing some sidework. They need startup cash, I need a cage...
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cool!
id be interested to know total man hours invested in it when done
talked to mike and DnD this weekend about XJ cages, he said run away from them they suck. Or convince customer to do a hybrid cage, way more functional and easier, more room also.
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At this point, we are 15hrs. We screwed up a couple pieces and spent a lot of time getting notches on the A pillars right. A, B, C pillars and front halo done. A and B pillars are tacked together in place, cutting holes in the floor to drop through for full welding. C and D pillars will most likely not be able to get fully welded (small I welded portion on the top.)
I debated doing a hybrid. Call me picky, but I just could not find a single one I liked the look of. The outside halos just look really doofy to me. Each tube pillar will be tied into its respective unibody pillar with steel plates 12-18" long. If I flop/roll, its gonna get fucked up. Hope is that it will mostly maintain its shape (see recent pics of the CrawlerReady ZJ) but that A pillar tie ins will preserve windshield frame shape mostly... Or enough to be massaged back to hold glass if damaged. I may regret keeping it all inside, but meh. My unibody and I will both feel much better about the abuse it sees now.
In my opinion, this is too much work for a cookie cutter pound it out and get paid kind of job. It's labor intensive getting things to fit just right. We agreed making a simple cage strictly for safety that fitted more loosely would go together much faster.
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The outside halos just look really doofy to me.
From what I've seen, it's hit or miss. Some look well done, others look like tacked together scrap. I'm actually glad I get to see yours done first, I'm thinking I want a cage within the next year and have been flip flopping the idea of internal vs. external. Now I know for a fact that I want to stay exo for the simple matter of head room, and the fact that my XJ's body is for the most part, unscathed. Side question, is there a fair amount of space on the roof once the head liner is removed? I've heard that you get an extra inch or two and have thought about taking it out (at my height, every little bit of head room helps).
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I can guestimate better the next time I'm at their shop, but I'd say at least 1" of room was gained, maybe more.
If my body was as clean as yours, I would have seriously considered doing an almost full exo, those look better than just the halos sitting on top in my opinion. But mine also departed DD land long ago. I asked Smike his opinion on that, "she's a little haggard to go outside at this point", I agree
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I will give you $5 cash to come do my jeep!! :)
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Made some good progress the last couple days. Really happy with how its turning out.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/8uby3y5u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/4ypebama.jpg)
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Looking great!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
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Getting back to this after a hiatus.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/24/2ehyhypu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/24/a4y6e2eg.jpg)
Rotted floors provided some convenience for this :)
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I need to brace my rockers at some point as well, looks good.
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These are mostly serving as cage tie-in points. I don't love them, but I wasn't coming up with anything better in my head. Considered having them go up thorough the floor and be flush with the bottom of the rocker, but that would reduce how much of the tube could get welded to the rocker and stiffener.
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Give them a ramp on the bottom of the slider...
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/jebabe2e.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/una8avuj.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/gy6emy8a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/anazuses.jpg)
All but some small stuff left.
Trailer bearings inspected, repacked and given an "emph"
Truck got new driveshaft carrier bearing, rear wheel bearings inspected and drums adjusted up and all fluids topped and checked.
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Looks good and stout. How long before roll-over testing? ;D
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Friend that helped me building said I had to do a roll over test...
Those Solid drive flange snap rings are no joke! Took giant channel locks and prying with a screw driver to get it in.
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Looks good harrison.
No roll over testing at BD.
We already did that with nicks dad and dog few years ago.
good times. :/
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Gas tank skid was starting to frown, so I relocated the tank today. Talk about a bang for the buck mod!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/azygapa3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/dubybe7y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/ypa8ybuv.jpg)
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The best every was the bronco (Chris?) with the ratchet straps holing a fuel cell to the back seat. I think you win for safety if not for brazen ballsiness.
The amount of space back there makes the Cherokee-to-TJ size comparison painfully clear.
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I think Chris finally made some real brackets for his fuel cell. Though he mentioned something the other day about hitting a tree and putting his fan through his radiator. No good!
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Boy that cage is ugly...
Sent from my SPH-L600 using Tapatalk
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Yeah that thing pretty much sucks
5.38s and reg renewal coming soon! One ton XJ DD status!
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lol. That thing will be a different animal with gears. As much as I want to see it geared just beats how much I dont want to lay under it and install them ;D
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Sweet new hilift mount! Should have had that in VA... Was entertaining watching Chad climb that tree though
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/byve9edu.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/deruvary.jpg)
806 carnage!
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806 carnage!
Tire was wedged and being forced to full lock with bumper pinned hard as I tried to back down a steep line. Kind of a "special case"
Side of joint that didn't break tweaked the ear on the stub and wollowed it out. Miraculously, the office had a Spicer 806 joint in stock. Installed with old caps in the stub and welded them in. Gonna order a new stub, cut the ears off the welded one, and install new stub with fresh caps from the new joint. Should be OK. Adding material to steering stops to prevent this in the future.
Trying to get this thing through emissions so I can renew the reg... and of course, CEL comes on halfway through this weekend. Extension from failing only gets me 60 day from original test due date which was back in November. Fawk!! Anyone have any experience with how long it takes for all the monitors to reset on ODBII 4.0s?
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It usually depends on a drive cycle (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?381712-OBDII-Drive-Cycle-Process), not time.
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Trying to imagine if I can do the listed set of operations with my rear wheels on jack stands... :-X
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I've always heard this but I had an O2 sensor replaced and inspection same day, 0 miles were driven so...
05 WK
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1.5 tanks of gas on a 2.5 based on my daily drive.
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I have cleared codes and driven to the inspection before, 5 miles.
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It depends on year too for how many systems need to be in their "Ready" state. I think the cut-off is 2002 for 3 vs 4 (or something like that).
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I tried twice but didn't make it lol
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I have cleared codes and driven to the inspection before, 5 miles.
Similar for me. Last year I failed mine because of a bad 02. Drove it home, picked up a new sensor, installed/cleared, went back the same day and passed. About 15 miles from my house to the place I got it inspected. Mine's a 97 if year means anything.
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o2 replacement is different than an emmissions ready ness test.
there is many bs on the web about drive this and that speed.
some tips i have learned for emmissions readyness pass:
a 10 mile anything drive we reset all with two important things: gas tank must read 1/2 full or less, must be a cold start. ie collant cloose to ambient.
there are 5 or 6 on my zj i had a cracked canister hose that fixed the last two tests.
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Honestly, have not even checked the code yet. Mostly concerned with the miles necessary to get it to be "ready", since it is not currently road legal.
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shouldnt take many miles. just speed- i had to go one 390 to get the last one.
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P0500 - VSS
Resetting does not work. Will require further diagnosis. Bah!
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speed sensor- you have goofyness with your doubler?
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Yes, there is a goofy adapter to go from Bronco to Jeep VSS. Seems to read on the speedo when moving, but bounces around sometimes when driving. All in close proximity to exhaust, need to investigate for shorts. Unplugging, cleaning and plugging connector back in made no change.
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Dan's busted D20 output has me thinking. $500 to upgrade rear output from coarse 10 spline to normal 32. Seems I could probably do a 205 and 1330/50 driveshafts for that much.
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4443009878.html
I'm sure a C6 is worth almost nothing, is that a decent price?
My doubler has a baby intermediate shaft between the 231 and D20. Assuming I'd just need to source the correct shaft to go from 231 to whatever a Ford 205 input is? I read that the Ford case has 6 studs on a slightly larger circle than Jeep stuff and holes can be drill a hair to make it work.
Hey Mike... do you have a Ford 205 on something going to scrap?
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i broke alot of dana 20's
once you get them mounted right and dont have your yokes over extended, the cases break last.
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Coarse 10 spline outputs even? CJ and Bronco D20s are not quite the same internally... Though splines may be the same.
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I have a scout D300 if your interested in making it strong!
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I have a divorced 203-205 doubler with 1350 everystuff and a new rear CV shaft that would be the beefiest strength upgrade there is for a "cheap" 3 speed setup.
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Ideally I would keep my doubler box and throw the 205 on it.
Maybe I need to give my setup more of a chance. Research shows CJ cases share the same 10 spline as Bronco. Dan was hopping pretty good with 4:1 in front of it and 39" stickies...
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ya mine were all coarse spine. i broke 2-3 rear outputs, a front output, and cracked a case once.
used to bring a spare to big dogs with the CJ after 10 min into a RC trip it snappered.
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DMV person was wrong, imagine that.
Failed emissions yesterday, granted a 60 day extension period from yesterday, stood in line and renewed reg today. Success!!!
Sucks my reg still expires at the same time in December 2015... but at least I get two more summers out of it! They don't revoke your reg if you don't pass emissions in the 60 days, just means you can't renew next time around until you pass and you don't get a free retest.
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What's your emissions no-pass issue? Fixable, or not so much? I'd guess evap failures with the fuel cell if nothing else
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Vehicle speed sensor. There's an adapter from the Bronco D20 speedo gear thingy, sure the issue is surrounding that. Seems to read on the speedo though.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/udymevem.jpg)
No more chasing down stock housings. New harness ordered.
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Nice
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side markers?
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Sweet back window!
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side markers?
Didn't even think of that. Does it need to flash with turn signal as well? Or just tail light.
We don't have safety inspection, seems unlikely a cop would get me for that. I suppose I may attract attention of a cop looking for someone to give a ticket though...
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I ran side markers for visibility and safety, screw inspection... Flush mounted tail lights give you no side profile at all.
I just grounded mine through the bright circuit, so it flashed with the turn signal with lights off, and against the turn signal with lights on. Made it go out with brakes applied and lights on, but I was happy enough since I didn't have a just-signal light to work with back there on mine (though you do - you could put a light between the tail light and the signal. If it's an LED you need a rectifier since polarity will run both ways)
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eagle eye from ryan and a rectifier from radios shack (or make one if you have the diodes) per side. Only need a 3/8" hole for the EE to "screw" into. A little bigger and the included nut can be used to hold it in.
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Or a side marker light with a built-in diode like I grabbed from wherever and ran inside the old tail light housing
Should do the same with The Mule.
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5.38s installed a couple weekends ago. Really nice now that I've gotten it out a couple times with them. Kept the D20 in low, and switched the doubler between ranges for crawl/wheelspeed needs. Really nice compared to just low/low with 4.10s.
Converter is smooshed, definitely killing top end performance (little I have) and needs shocks. Then I can... kinda street it?
Blew out another rear window. Smooshed the roof into the cage in a couple spots. Only a matter of time before that's the entire thing, I'm sure. Need to get the unibody/cage tie in plates done before it's too late to do anything. Also needs tube tied into front unibody plating/bumper. Leaf mounts on both ends need rebuilding this winter, assuming they last that long [knock on wood.]
Creepies really bring the suck when any moisture is involved. A little disappointing. Thinking I will do some weld on beadlocks on some stock Ford 8 lug steel wheels. Eventually thinking Krawlers and nice beadlocks.
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Dans crawlers work pretty good. they wouldn't last a mile on my car at that pressure though.
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On a positive note, this thing had an awesome weekend. It just keeps taking everything I throw at it. Did trail 5 hill climb and steep stepped climb to the right of the v-notch on crawler ridge. Two things I've been attempting for years unsuccessfully. No carnage other than Hannah getting stung by one of the bees who's nest a disturbed on my way up.
Looking to quiet it down a bit though. Hollowed cat and 12" glass pack leave some muffling to be desired. 28" glass pack and turbo muffler are within $5 of each other... Thoughts on which will be louder?
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Thought has crossed my mind to sell all things tow rig and use the money for Atlas, 1350 driveshafts, more tube and just hawg this thing everywhere UA style. Drove it to gas station down Molleystown Rd and back and was pleasantly surprised.
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Don't do it!
but I'd love to see you do it. It's just a huge commitment... and fraught with even more room for trouble than the tow rig.
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Looking to quiet it down a bit though. Hollowed cat and 12" glass pack leave some muffling to be desired. 28" glass pack and turbo muffler are within $5 of each other... Thoughts on which will be louder?
I think a glasspack will always be louder since it's straight-through.
Thought has crossed my mind to sell all things tow rig and use the money for Atlas, 1350 driveshafts, more tube and just hawg this thing everywhere UA style. Drove it to gas station down Molleystown Rd and back and was pleasantly surprised.
In theory, this sounds cool. Fiscally, very appealing. But reality will hurt when you have that breakage you can't or don't want to fix in a parking lot.
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reality will hurt when you have that breakage you can't or don't want to fix in a parking lot.
Now that you mention that:
I remember one of my last trips driving the Dakota before I got a tow rig, when I spent the weekend running for parts and then cobbling together a driveshaft in the parking lot instead of wheeling...
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Agreed.
Keep the truck.
Find something else to sell.
Glass pack is louder... i know that's what I just installed.
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Don't do it!
but I'd love to see you do it. It's just a huge commitment... and fraught with even more room for trouble than the tow rig.
That's what I've been telling myself for a long time. But I was extremely lucky my truck let go 30 minutes from home. If it was further, I'd have been really stranded and really stretching a favor from a friend to come rescue my Jeep on my trailer. If I just have my Jeep and it totally shits at Rausch, I ride home with someone else and borrow a truck to get it later. If it shits on the way home, I just hope I'm within 100 miles from home and use AAA or cheat and string a couple tows together or something. Seems simpler to me...
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Forget the diesel and buy a cheap, reliable gasser. Or a RV camper! Hannah will thank you...
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wheeling tires on road is no good for 500mile+ trips silly
fix your hawg, bank on money saved with fuel source
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Old diesels are nothing but trouble.
Should have kept the Suburban... ;D
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The thing is, with the exception of the headgasket and subsequent motor replacement that I actually made money on, I had all of the "old diesel" and transmission (assuming single Jeep towing) issues mostly sorted out within a few months. It's everything else around it that's been a headache.
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Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
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Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
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Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
And keep Hannah.
Between wheeling, cookies, and truck advice I think you've hit the jackpot.
;)
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Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
She is, and she is right. I'm just disgruntled and need it off my radar for a while.
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Burn it
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(http://www.radioitalo4you.net/forum/images/smiles/flame.gif)
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Shoulda bought rywans class C!
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1/2 ton gasser is where's it's at!
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Give it a week you'll be back lol
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1/2 ton gasser is where's it's at!
(http://www.radioitalo4you.net/forum/images/smiles/flame.gif)
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Give it a week you'll be back lol
Maybe.
Probably.
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My buddy Caleb came and got me in his 2500 7.4 Burb. They do ride nice, and honestly don't pull half bad. But all I could hear were dollar signs going out the tailpipe heading up the onramp at 3300rpm!
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My next door neighbor wants to get rid of one of those. Has a knock. Put your cummins in it and rid yourself of the problem chassis surrounding your motor?
And exchange it for a whole new set of problems!!
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Duraburb FTW!
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just leave it out side and let it think about what it has done for a while. thats what we do with cars / trucks / trailers when they are bad
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just leave it out side and let it think about what it has done for a while. thats what we do with cars / trucks / trailers when they are bad
HA HA!
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No swaps, no new trucks. Either option just opens potential for more and unknown problems! At least 80% of the parts on my truck are a known condition at this point.
It's been very bad and I have apparently not need good about disciplining it. Now go sit in the corner of the lawn facing away from all the other trucks and jeeps!!!
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That is one sweet ride!
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Such a sweet ride.
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Driving this thing around. Feels like a dog. Not what I was expecting with 5.38s and 37s. Speedo isn't functional, but my buddy's with 4.88 and 35s pulls really well and his doesn't work either.
In addition to 0500 for the speedo, I'm getting:
0122 - usually tps?
1694 - usually crank sensor? but it runs so Idk
0705 - usually NSS, weird because it always works
Would any or all of those things adversely affect performance? It could probably use a tube up as well.
So about that UA wheeling thing.
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coming to Rochester any time soon? we are looking for daily D60 35spline trucks for locker testing soon!
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probably general tuneup. any vac leaks? clean air filter?
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probably increased its GVW by 1200 lbs with axles, tires, tube lol
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Smike, definitely will not be in Roc anytime soon with my Jeep.
Going to do TPS, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and air filter. Go from there. Has a slight hesitation when you hit the gas and feels gutless over 2k. Also haven't done an oil change in a loooooooong time...
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Off to a good start being on par with the trucK
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nono, it's gonna be WAY BETTER than the truck ;)
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sweet back window!
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Tune up tonight, we will see how that goes.
Other issue is ride/handing which I'm going to attribute mostly to shocks, somewhat to surely softened springs from years of crawling. When I hit whoops in the road, it feels like it almost wants to become airborne, then comes back down and I feel like I'm going to lose control.
I had a set of 8" Bilstein 5150s donated that have the body eyelet broken off. May be able to make a weld repair and get a little more out of them. Same friend has a set of good condition 12" 5150s he's willing to sell for $100.
Having been a white body shock guy my whole life, I feel these will offer a decent improvement in handing in all conditions. Is it worth springing for another couple 10" or 12" 5150s at $120/ea? Or would I be wiser to use the 12"/8" combo I'm getting dirt cheap and spring for something nicer like a 7100 or Fox emulsion or remote resi shock down the road.
Can someone (Ryan?) school me on all the different shock construction types? I'm obviously not setup to go fast, but it would be nice to not smash my bumpstops on pole line road and feel more in control on the road.
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Power washed, new heims installed, 5150s installed all around with rears through floor. Took much longer than I'd hoped, always a pain getting shock mounts set with bumpstop/ride height.
Drives WAY nicer now. Sweet 55mph machine
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/11/qu6eqahy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/11/qy4aveju.jpg)
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That looks like a nice tight hole for the shocks (nuts nudge wink wink). it really clears all the way through travel? That almost looks close enough that you could even put a rubber boot around it to seal to the floor
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The pic doesn't show it well, but it's centered in the opening. Not much room to go either way bigger, unibody on one side and pinch seam on the other. We'll see...
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Wax paper and great stuff!
It's all you need to keep the skeeters out!
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needs less fluxcore 8)
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I bet you'd be impressed what's under that layer of slag!
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Will has been holding a series of fun races for the CT crew at some local spots. Lots of fun. But went a little too hard yesterday.
I've ended up in second the last two races we've had by less than a second each.
This race was a lot of high speed with mostly 6-12" dia rocks with minimal technical terrain. 5150s were miles better than the old white bodies! Rear end still kinda hops around but much better.
First stage of the race I was 1:21, my buddy Andy ended up with a 1:18. Second run I was trying to make up time and NAILED a tree with my passenger front tire head on doing probably 15mph or so with probably 1/2-3/4 throttle. Felt like a car accident.
Took out:
Steering box
Upper ball joint
Caliper
Appears to have exploded the nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle
Broke welds that hold sleeve for heim bolt into knuckle
Was fun to steer the 1.5 miles out of the trail with no power assist and a broken box. Cut the pressure line to the box and looped it into the top of the res to keep the pump from running dry.
No evidence of any unibody structural damage. Lower link mount would have take the brunt of the impact and that appeared unscathed.
This things needs more tube and money thrown at the front end... or for me to stop driving it like an ultra4 car :-\
What is the upgrade for spindle studs? Smike, did I read you drilled and tapped knuckles for 5/8 gr8 bolts?
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That's pretty cool. Will G?
Where's the vids? :)
Whatever you do on spindle bolts, I would suggest keeping fine thread. Not sure what's been done to our cars on those. Dakota was still all stock stuff up there.
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Yes, Will G. Just stopwatch/two way radio timing style. Casual but a ton of fun.
There's vids from the Rausch crawl daddy comp last month, but not the first race or this past weekend. He says vids are coming... Though I am afraid he sadly has higher priority video projects :)
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http://youtu.be/4tB7ChDsoVE
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That's awesome harry!
smike has solid inner C's so I assume their stronger than stock.
Not sure any stud would hold up against that type of impact.
Trees are unforgiving @ Speed.
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Cool video!! Did he do everyone's?
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Hannah... I definitely showed you that
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Don't think so...
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VERY cool!
Tapatalking in traffic
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i see a stock limited something class racer in the works!
tap and drill to coarse thread 5/8" bolts will then fail a Chevy knuckle in half rather than strip off the high steer arm. it was worlds of upgrade from half inch stock studs.
next is what 571 and 928 have, solid knuckles. after that, what 572 has, solid knuckles, solid C's and knewly added Artec tied in arms. I can head on bounce a 28PSI tire off a 12" oak at 20 mph and no care.
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Stock spindle bolts on all three cars though, right? Just high steer is stepped up.
Tapatalking in traffic
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solid spindle studs and locking nuts. not sure if they are an ARP or not, but they are upgraded on all three cars. Matts and Mine studs have a heavy tack on inside to knuckles
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Thought I remembered seeing Smike post about 5/8 bolts. I may just replace with new quality stock and gr 8 nuts. I think the nuts are what failed... Those may have been sourced from Lowes with unknown quality
I need to look at rules and figure out what class I'd be in but I'm afraid my cage isn't going to pass inspection without an engineer signoff... Based on a convo with other friends here that are looking to get into it. I can't remember if it was wall thickness or OD or both, but I'd qualify under the 4000lb class but not the next one up.
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Things like rcrocs racing don't have that stringent of tech like u4 does for cages.
Tapatalking in traffic
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def could hawg that guy in 6cyl class at Line mountain and have a blast
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Oh that's right he is 6 cyl.
He'll yes dude!
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/20/y3yvavyb.jpg)
Apparently ball joints are not tree-impact certified
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/poly-performance/944903-new-dana-30-dana-44-dana-60-ball-joints-synergy-suspension.html
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/poly-performance/944903-new-dana-30-dana-44-dana-60-ball-joints-synergy-suspension.html
These are what I run in the JK, solid units for sure.
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Pricey though. How much Solid knuckle/inner c can I get for that money? Dan can get Spicers cheap, planning to see how long those last. We know there is a distinct metallurgical quality difference between Moog and Spicer u joints...
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you will have $1100+ into C's, knuckles, arms, king pin parts, king pin caps
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Accordingly to PBB, nobody have completely broke a ball joint. I'll get the one I linked to whenever I do the 2013 Ram 2500's brakes.
I currently running XRF ball joints and it cost me $300 If I remember correctly.
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Taking Brett's tube bender as part of the deal on the 5spd stuff, so this hog's gonna get some more tube this winter!
Need to get the front tied in. Plan is to straighten front bumper and have a piece run from A-pillar straight forward to bumper. Tie into stiffeners on front of unibody, particularly to tie in steering box and trackbar mounting sections (on both sides.) Probably add an engine crossbar.
Was thinking about doing exo for this stuff, but I think I'm going to stick with the "let the sheetmetal conform to the tube" idea the rest of the Jeep is destined for. Should be fun keeping all that stuff mostly behind the fenders and under the hood. Will's Jeep has the cage poke through the front fenders in a couple spots through ovalized holes, thinking that will be necessary for what I want to do.
This thing did not get out on the trail enough this year :'( Need to change that next year! Right, Mark? ;)
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/e1d44b7f4eccbce04f658b085741369f.jpg)
I don't hate this. I suspect I'd not like it as much if the tube didn't match the fender color. Meh
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More carnage found on removal of steering box
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/f794dd6d285741c3b2511dc2c001ccfd.jpg)
At least between all the Jeeps we've had in and out of our garage I've never had to actually pay for any of those boxes I grenade.
Broke the tap off inside the new box fortunately there is another one kicking around here.
Who has a good link on the forklift orbital/TSC single ended ram steering stuff? Or part numbers? Might start keeping an eye out for a deal on an orbital. Seeing the writing on the wall and am having a hard time swallowing $1500 for PSC...
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Smike, what were you running on the CJ when you were "daily driving" it? I think that would fit the bill for what I need.
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Getting this pile back together, install steering box and cycle steering. Way uneven turns on each side even after centering box before install. Look underneath and pitman as bent and twisted. I guess I don't blame it this time. Was looking for another a Waggy donor but am thinking my time might begetter invested straightening mine and sandwiching with 1/4" rather than laying under a greasy Waggy fighting with a pitman puller.
Should have made the decision to go with ram and hoses immediately after this happened. Oh well
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Considering what you did to the old box, I'd get some sector shaft support on there along with beefing up the pitman arm...
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Not sure how I'd do that. Would need to find a bearing that fits that shaft I guess? In any event, once I'm passed this pitman ordeal I'm definitely done investing anything else in this steering setup.
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Here's an overcomplicated and accordingly priced example
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_0104_07.htm
nut with a stub on the end, into a bearing on a mount. Essentially double sheering the pitman arm mount with the box on top and a strong bearing on the bottom.
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my CJ was stock power steering swap on street- went right to full hydro and no street when it was ton'd
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Interesting. Even if I could just get that nut and buy a bearing myself and can something up, I'd rather just have a ram and hoses haha
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Got mine straightened back out. It took getting it orange to twist and bend back... Hotter than I had wanted to get it. Any advice on how to treat it? I'm thinking I will just sandwich it with some steel like I mentioned before.
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/21/0e4f12ec6a93604d314cc20f00dae5c1.jpg)
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Gusset the balls out of it. And start buying hydro parts.
;)
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Thoughts for what I should pay for some 16x8 aftermarket steelies setup with inner air locks? I'm thinking $500
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silly.
buy real wheels
i hear inner airs suck for mounting with out destroying them
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I was thinking I'd wait to buy real wheels when I go to 40s with 17" rim. My current wheels are falling apart. Need to do something to get through another year or so
Guy with the wheels and locks is an experienced wheeler and fabricator, someone who's opinion I'd trust. He had great luck with them.
Other option is some free stock Ford steelies with $285 of weld on beadlocks
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Inners are supposed to be better than the others
Tapatalking in traffic
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Staun or Inner air will be fine for wreck wheelin. Racers are mounting/dismounting and changing tires all the time. I'll probably be running them at some point.
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KMCs are 265$ a wheel shipped. there is no better option in my experience.
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/02/d55108eba830d2e5bc89dea7cc07128d.jpg)
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How much they charge
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$10.50 and $2 for any reweigh after that
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You mean furs vey and we vey
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Lol
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Back to looking at t case options. I want this to be my last t-case. Good for sticky 40s.
32 spline output for current D20 $400 (no option to upgrade front)
Source Dodge 205 with 23spl input and figure out mounting to current doubler $noclue and a shitload of fabrication work to support it
Build a 4:1 D300 with 32spl outputs and ditch doubler $1400 + D300 itself (Dan recently paid $1300ish for my identical setup, so could come close to breaking even)
Atlas ($2300-3500 depending on options and gearing)
If I could upgrade my D20 front output I'd just go that route. If I could get a 4:1 205 I'd get rid of everything and do that. Need more shrong with decent gearing but no good, cheap options for me.
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205 /203 doubler from mikes dakota?
sell your stuff?
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Divorced unit, I don't have room for that. Also heavy and huge
Hate to say it but built D300 seems like as good an option as any right now.
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My junk is listed. We'll see what happens.
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stretch it!
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Nah. I'm gonna throw too much money at a D300 I think.
Arie, did you have a D300 with a 4:1 kit in it already?
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It will be fine.
It will still be cheaper than spending min 2500 on an atlas.
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Spent this weekend pulling leaves with broken weldnuts inside the rails. Fun. Broken from flexing of outer bracket, not from attempting to remove bolt. This needed to be done two years ago.
Spare me the fluxcore and 4 link comments! Will probably add another brace of some kind on the front. Not sure what I want it to look like yet and it can be added later.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/11/908cb992567e3d94b83c103e67b2c5fb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/11/1ed33a9f1c50d7f823d30da5e35cabed.jpg)
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Ordered these. I like the built in anti-coning feature. Going to weld these to some stock Ford 16x7 steelies. (courtesy of Troy)
https://totalmetalinnovations.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130&products_id=384&zenid=a1496435d98b8f0ecdf3541096085ac3
Decided I'm going to buy the $400 output for my case. I can't find anyone who is having issues with breaking front outputs on their 20. Found a local guy who does cryo treating, haven't decided if I think that's worth it for the front. Estimating it will run around $20.
Got an S10 pack someone was using for the same amount of lift in another XJ. Same dimensions as the Dodge van leaves I had in there that give a nice shackle angle but the S10 leaves have the center pin 3" further back. So I added about 2" more of stretch. The AA 32 spline output is about 1.5" longer so this works perfectly for letting me continue to use stock XJ front driveshafts.
The S10 packs are significantly less HD than the van leaves. I'm hoping this helps with flex a little, but I was worried about axle wrap so I bought some brackets and bushings from Ruff Stuff and pieced together a traction bar from steel and old heims I had laying around. Went with the "slip and twist" design to save ground clearance. 3/16" wall 2" square tube with 1-5/8" 1/8" wall inside. Made the upper link mount long to hopefully help combat bending. Hopefully it doesn't bend. Had to scooch the exhaust over a little bit to clear it so I'm going to need to go back to glasspack style or maybe relocate the muffler further back though I doubt that will work.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/34fd2d10456482d5be7a4e6cc7085057.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/59942085a9ad1ab0cc02514bf63c457e.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/f54eed160cf3cc6f6168282fbe74f10d.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/85c03a0e47d1ef9c3a22d46abf14c15b.jpg)
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Why couldn't you put the traction bar on the driver's side away from the exhaust all together? Don't traction bars need a shackle on the frame side?
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They're better on the passenger's side to counteract the torque of the motor on the chassis. Probably not a huge deal but it wasn't that hard to get it where it is. I don't need a shackle because the DOM with the joint at the frame end telescopes inside the square tube. Look at my 3rd pic.
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that is some sweet claptrap around leaf springs! cool
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Thanks! I think. Haha. Can't be worse than square tube driveshafts!
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Lot of grinding... Glad its over
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/25/405d5d4a359bed2a6961422f5b871a1f.jpg)
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I bet... but It's not over until they hold air!
;) LOL
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I meant grinding was over. But yeah, definitely. I TIG'd them so hopefully they work OK...
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im confused at your grinding location
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The plates sit inside the rim. Grind the weld off smooth when done.
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o lord what a pain and leak path
good luck with that sir- you are braver than I
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They will get slathered with bead sealer. It has definitely been more work than I anticipated but I'm committed at this point. Couldn't bring myself to spend $1k+ on 16" beadlocks when I know 17s are in my future. Know a few people personally who have had good luck with them. I'm aware Erik is not one of them :)
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Ryans sucked the worse
Jeff and Gif deal with them leaking, slime fixed most.
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Ryans sucked the worse
Jeff and Gif deal with them leaking, slime fixed most.
Slime fixed all my leaks.
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I did not do mine, I bought them already done with the tires on them.
I remember that the coning was the worst part of it. You really do need anti-coning rings welded on as well.
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Mine came with the tabs that bend up for anti-coning.
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3 more to go... We'll see how this one holds air tomorrow
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/27/0c88402f87706f4376aa4730be49efe6.jpg)
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Looks great but I love orange!
What did your bead width measure when completed?
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Looks like I went from 30 to 25 psi last night looks like slime is in my future.
For Mark:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/c56da72f3a1e96d78ef0e46c54b37f11.jpg)
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Thank you
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/01/f5d4603b6d94a61c2bf2582d0ebbd29a.jpg)
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I think you need a taller garage!
Looks sweet!
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Did you use top locks or regular nuts?
I welded up a set last fall from AtoZ, because I too couldn't justify the cost of new. Mine will leak down about 5 lbs over the course of 2 weeks, which is easy enough to deal with. Will probably give all of the bolts another 1/2 turn before spring hits.
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Yep, they came with top lock nuts. The last two I did haven't leaked at all yet... Second one had a leaky valve stem and the first lists 10psi since Friday night.
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Did you do anything with the valve stem? Thinking of moving mine...
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No I left them. Not that hard to access I don't think.
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/05/55bd23e40ef0c1aecc7ed6a0b6b5a20b.jpg)
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Pulled the trigger eh?
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Yeah. About 1.5" longer so it fits in well with my rear stretch. A little piece of mind.
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im wholesale with AA
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Dan gets good pricing through them too, but this is a Wold Horses exclusive part. Cannot buy from AA directly. Dan tried. He got me a discount through Wild Horses though.
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Got a little more done this weekend. Output installed and rear fenders trimmed for stretch. Winter punchlist is getting smaller. Needs glasspack I bought installed. Tie in plates between all cage and body pillars done. Wanted to add tube to front this winter, we'll see if I can fit that in.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/444f75ae3b099702107f70af2aa9f4bf.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/67831b311b0116a6dcf69e4508b2180e.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/afae279928acbef75ad00e6a615c6e42.jpg)
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Haven't added any air to tires since last weekend!
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Any case disassembly required?
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Nope. Unbolt, remove, transfer roller bearings from old to new, reinstall with rtv
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Nice!
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great to hear about no added air
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Really? No case disassembly with AA? JB requires full rebuild. Good to know.
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Erik, this is a Bronco D20...
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Thought it looked different.
Why did I think you had put in a 300? We're you considering it a while back?
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ya i had spare front and rear outputs i carried on the trail after breaking the rear output 10minutes into an RC trip once. after i cracked a case, i actually took a spare transfer case to bigdogs lol
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Yeah Erik, I had laid out a bunch of case options a couple months ago. 300 with 4:1 was one of my options I was considering. Went this route because it was the cheapest and easiest :) Only concern about the 20 is no option to upgrade the front output but I can't find anyone having issues with the fronts. Found a guy locally who can cryo treat, decided against it for now.
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Ahh. Missed the switch to the 20.
Sounds like same as 300 front output... not many guys having issues there.
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20 has been in behind my doubler for a few years now. Picked it all up as a unit. Much easier to just swap the output and keep going haha
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they are pretty tough until you start throwing the weight of the truck on rocks with a square driveshaft.
i think i only broke one front before.
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I broke 2 dana 20's in the same weekend in my CJ5
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/5ECFD9D8-12BB-4BEC-8973-82B09036FF88_zpsud6vy9lh.png) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/5ECFD9D8-12BB-4BEC-8973-82B09036FF88_zpsud6vy9lh.png.html)
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That's awesome!
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The research I did was on Bronco 20s. I know they are not internally identical, though I don't know if there is much difference in strength.
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texas bolt pattern?
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I'm not sure. Mine came with my doubler with a Jeep t-case bolt pattern conversion ring on it. Never took it off
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Oh wow I didn't see the pic the first time. What were you doing when they failed? I have read about people making HD inspection plates to strengthen case. Looks like that could have helped except I still see missing teeth
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What were you doing when they failed?
wheeling
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Wow
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Dan came over tonight and we got started on the front end cage stuff. Everything else will be hidden behind the fenders and tie into that piece and the stiffeners. Will make an engine cross bar with flanges. Credit to Dan for this idea, fits mint.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/ff2c1bea3a70ed69d9b5bc3189127158.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/44b82eb42dcd57f91bc49b0068b0c997.jpg)
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Looks like a clean spot to stick that tube.
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Got the other side fitted up and tacked on. Made sure everything fits behind the fenders. Started on the bracing. Still looking at options for engine bar.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/13/5e4788faa6b0fb8a09ed5bd36772dab2.jpg)
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Looks good. I really like the fact your keeping it behind the fenders
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Done enough for upcoming trip. Basic, but a good starting point. Need to give some thought to how it will tie into the stiffener plates on the front. But for now, the front structure is at least protected if something happens. Hood closes with a little modification.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/d30ac0c870950adc5a870187ce382cb0.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/a706432e5d3d9d0beaac2385614e98d3.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/36f7dab69ebf3aa83400aa30fd282e76.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/37981c988bdb0b7f9c3bb26eec692b09.jpg)
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Nice work dude
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People using recovery winches as suck down: do you ever find yourself in situations where you need to use your winch for recovery but need to keep the front sucked down? Considering something like this:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/0685c47a82050e3f21c574654d16194b.jpg)
Other option I came up with was this. Pulley on front axle. Allows the recovery winch to stay as recovery but is generally kind of a claptrap:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/8dfc1f1d811dea2e24688a51fc11fd3e.jpg)
Leaning towards first option.
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WTF is that rolling over on option 1?
option 2 is the way to go if you want to run a suckdown.
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WTF is that rolling over on option 1?
Piece of DOM. Seems like a good option to me if you're running rope and don't care about giving up the recovery winch during times you need the suckdown.
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once you have a suck down winch you will realize they are for the birds
so much hassel and after you break the cable 3 times you will give up
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Also when you need to recover and the winch line is all fucked and also buried inside itself from being slammed on while loose.
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Alrighty then. Looked, no room for either option at 4.5" lift anyway.
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http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-21294-h66718.aspx?make=Chevrolet&parttype=Brake%20Hose&origin=keyword
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-23350-h38347.aspx?make=Chevrolet&parttype=Brake%20Hose&origin=keyword
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Spent tonight mocking up the ram mount. Really wanted to keep the tie rod over the knuckle which makes packaging hard at lower lift height. Contacts the oil pan about the same amount the trackbar does at full bump.
The ram breaking off the axle would be a nightmare. Looking for opinions on schrongness of this mount. Seems good to me tying into inner c and trackbar mount, and will of course have some added gussets where useful.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/715f25209f502295f1c2842778620133.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/b5d70d64cd8597b1d2b9f8bc7861c007.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/5414c8b35330b91f888949fe51bfd877.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/7bac4a03e54d305796e18975315c6e32.jpg)
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Looks about as good as you'll get with space constraints. Go with double thick clevis plates on each end?
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also consider those C's are cast and wont hold a mig weld much
how does the tie rod flop when cycled with load? not too bad?
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how does the tie rod flop when cycled with load? not too bad?
That was my second thought, right after "are you sure that isn't backwards?"
This is for full hydro, not assist. You don't want any slop in there. If there's any way you can get that ram acting on a steering arm, do it. Get a bling passenger knuckle, run the ram to a high steer arm, and hang a mount off the front of the axle where you have a TON of non-cast material to weld it to.
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ya pushing on the middle of the tie rod is not ideal. closest to the knuckle as you can, but sometimes you just cant.
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Sometimes if you just can't, you shouldn't. How much slop there is in that setup based on rocking of the tie rod, and how likely the tie rod is to just kink down where the ram ties in when trying hard to steer left against something determine if it's of the not-ideal or of the don't-bother.
If it fits where it is right now, it's got to be damn close to fitting flipped around and connecting to the knuckle.
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alot of guys run the ram mount off the fabricated diff cover. good steel to weld too, more pain for maintance
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Ok, bending of the tie rod while bound up purely from ram forces was not something I was designing for with that configuration.
My original plan was a mount that welded to the pumpkin and tube, but I found that the body of the ram barely fits and once fittings were on they'd be going through the oil pan. Plus it would have to be really long to get where I needed. I figured having the body mounting pin vertical was mandatory and I don't have options for relocating both ports on the ram. I don't think attaching to a knuckle is going to work at all, but I will take another look at flipping the ram around. Diff cover would probably make for the cleanest mount if it's a sound platform, I was reading mixed reviews on that for full hydro setups. Assist ram was mounted there.
The flop of the tie rod seemed to be within the margin of misalignment of the heims with the setup as-is.
I believe the inner c is steel not iron, so successful welding isn't out of the question I don't think. Will require preheating of c and some sort of insulated wrap to slow the cooling.
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This somehow miraculously works at full bump with both hydraulic ports straddling the oil pan. I will admit I like this better, though I am not exactly evenly loading the diff cover. The rocking during travel seems less, though I'm not sure I understand why.
I think the shot of the cover tab shows why I even a 10" tall bracket off the axle tube wouldn't fit with the trackbar where it is.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/07ac64bc47694754befd26b3027bdcbb.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/90fc1b52478418858839d1443f3962f6.jpg)
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I like that a lot better.
Tapatalking in traffic
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run another tab at the dif cover below ram bolt head, or truss up that sing mount- looks much better.
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Right, going to brace that tab up really well.
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you can always add a custom M4wd hydro slop bump stop lol
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haha i forgot about that design fix still doing work !
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..doing work !
When? Prove it.
In and out of the garage bay doesn't count. :P
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flat tire...
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ya still at the shop haven't gotten to it haha
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I did get it to M4 last month, that's progress!
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Ok, credit awarded.
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Ran and bled tonight. Seems great so far. May need to limit the ram 3/4" or so to keep from stressing things. Took about 10min of cycling to get froth free fluid in the res.
Diff mount. I can see the flange pulled slightly away from casting while welding even with bolts tightened. Not sure what else I could have done. May see if a friend can mill it flat again if it ends up being an issue.
I didn't get the 211 dialed in so they look a little goobery but they are hot. I am not much of an out of position MIG welder.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/d13e66d8104c08e1b0106414740eebf2.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/7f8b0e8726c6927d2decb4950854b915.jpg)
Need to pull tie rod off to burn in the mount and paint it. Adjust trackbar 1/4" shorter to keep fitting away from pan and full bump. Grind diff cover a hair more to clear tie rod at full driver lock. Then put it all back together.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/f3723e28acddc4a81153a22d8881abba.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/d6c9d166230199d02cd001fe6e252499.jpg)
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Welds look fine to me!
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I had issues when I welded a limit strap to the 14 bolt diff cover. Never could get it to seal again.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Did it use countersunk bolts? That's the only reason I think I might be ok.
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RTV it, only lightly snug the bolts, let it dry 24hrs, tighten bolts, fill
or belt sand it or grind it if its super off....
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No mine didnt.
I noticed those.
I think your right. That could make all the difference.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Pulled tie rod to burn in mounting tab and paint. Heim galled up in the tube adapter.
I need to order a collar to use to limit the ram. Last 1" or so is unused when I hit the stops. Dan came over and cycled it while I watched, it does start to bow the tie rod down a little. Holy crap, I did not expect that kind of force from that thing.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/19/b3431f558a44b4fa7514d915e8078fb9.jpg)
I see me getting in and out far less frequently during the day now. Haha
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This thing has turned into Dakota 2.0!
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What are the buggy guys using for skin mounting tabs?
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I just got some of these (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRICK1420.html) from Ruffstuff
(http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/trick%20tab%20insert.jpg)
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i get the ones with out nut serts and just weld in my own nut
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I don't think I'll ever use bolt on tins again. You'll want to pull them off for cleanup and maintenance but you'll hate having to undo bolts.
I need to dzues my tins. I'm SO tired of bolts.
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good luck with that and east coast trees
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good luck with that and east coast trees
Bolts or those Dzus things?
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Dzus
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issue being breaking/ripping off the panels.
Agreed it may be an issue but I'm willing to try it.
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id go for them on my hood, but not on side tins
if you order them get me 4 sets of things
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if you order them get me 4 sets of things
I'm gonna order what Mark linked. I'm assuming you meant if I ordered the other Dzus doodas.
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sorry thought this was mikes thread. move along out of towner
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Hahaha I did too
Tapatalking in traffic
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10 years of ownership this month!
Need to get some more tube work done and get it painted.
Atlas, beadlocks, 40s...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/03/93e470d946862515c85d9bb3feaa8475.jpg)
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This hawg become unreg'd today
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Oh boy!
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/ec368b7559e1f58d3248a135ec41cf31.jpg)
Krawlers next
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Nice!!
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nice choice
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ooo, shiny! 8)
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Those are really nice wheels.
Classic and not obnoxious.
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I approve! ;)
Tapatalking in traffic
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best wheels out there. i have 11 or so 8)
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Very Nice
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Thanks guys! Debating painting the rings the same orange as my current ones or having my buddy powder coat them. Or leave them shiny!
Can't wait to have shiny wheels on my wrinkled Jeep.
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Been extremely happy with my hydraulic steering with exception of the cover loosening enough to cause a drip after a day of wheeling.
Two solutions I have come up with:
Ram guard like below but attaches to the diff cover with some kind of flange/bracket welded to the cover that allows the cover to still be removed. Hopefully stiffens everything enough to not loosen. Concerned about building something that bolts together in two different planes, welding distortion may cause issues?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/c0b2b5fa4cf83fd9560987c339d89ea5.jpg)
Buy something like shown below. Concern being whether or not four 1/2" bolts can provide enough additional clamping force over the countersunk bolts to keep things in place. I think so...? Would still build a simple ram guard separate from cover.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/58679bd254e3f6e9469dd0efaa4edbd2.jpg)
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How about a hoop in front of the cover that bolts or welds to yiur mount and bolts to tabs on each tube to help take the left-right force?
Tapatalking in traffic
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So the hoop/ram guard and cover would be one whole assy either bolted or welded together, then the hoop attaches to the axle tubes on either side? That sounds decent as well if I am understanding correctly.
Something like this would probably work well too, though I would probably keep it to one flange facing toward the middle.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/217ec288793b7e10b5303a874594de82.jpg)
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Thats a monstrous version of what I had in mind
Tapatalking in traffic
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After actually taking some measurements I realized I needed about 7-8" to stick out past the tie rod. Found some scrap pieces of tube and came up with this.
Bracing to come. Thinking two 5/8" bolts on the flange. Forgive the fluxcore tacks, big boy extension cord is at Dan's house...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/6565aceaa5d804e18666bb1f5e1e47b4.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/7bf646ff8618d87ab1f00158c653b276.jpg)
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Seems pretty reasonable. I wonder though, thinking about where your ram mounts, if the twisting force that will result might still be enough to want to tweak the cover?
I think I would also put the forward side of that at the tube flush and trim while welding, and have a washer's worth of space against the axle tube, so that it is trying to smoosh the cover on harder rather than having any chance of the brace trying to pull the cover off.
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im confused.
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im confused.
Where the c clamp is there are two pieces of steel that will be a bolted flange. The diff cover side will become one welded assembly so the cover can still be removed
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Seems pretty reasonable. I wonder though, thinking about where your ram mounts, if the twisting force that will result might still be enough to want to tweak the cover?
I think I would also put the forward side of that at the tube flush and trim while welding, and have a washer's worth of space against the axle tube, so that it is trying to smoosh the cover on harder rather than having any chance of the brace trying to pull the cover off.
I do think the twisting is part of the problem, which is why I think the flanges need to be touching with a good amount of preload on them.
I will look at possibly adding a second bolted connection closer to the ram mount, but I think a tightly bolted flange in another plane will be a huge improvement over just 10-12 countersunk bolts.
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Ready for welding. Resealed cover and torqued bolts and re-tacked bent cover tube. Want everything to be in its happy place when it gets welded. Plan is to weld it up just like it is here, paint it, put it back in, and hope it doesn't have to come off for a long time...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/04/96e50c518d6f50c3dfef328f4b41095f.jpg)
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Done
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/08/3343226e9ca89e6af7aec601070d2dd1.jpg)
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i hate those pins with a passion
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Creepies on wheels are for sale if anyone here is interested
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Creepies on wheels are for sale if anyone here is interested
Asking $1300 to the lowballing public
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What are you going to run instead of the creepies
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
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Got 39" Krawlers coming
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Hoping I can get away with trimming my bumper a little and not hacking it up too much but I don't know...
Going to trim sheetmetal a bit more, lift another 1-2", bumpstop a bit more.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/28/a1ceefd75d8a3a045b68a412b7bdd777.jpg)
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damn those are big.. but look very sweet.
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39s but measure 3" taller than my 37s...
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Stickies I presume. nice
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Yep, that red label says it all ;D
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Trimmed bumper, hammered in floor, trimmed fenders, added 1" of bumpstop and 1.5" of lift. At full stuff, steering is somewhat limited but I have worked it so any rubbing surfaces are smooth metal now. Going to need longer shocks.
Moving to rear tomorrow at level suspension. Doubting it is going to need much trimming.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/30/7ea1e1943bb1bdd502abde0b4249a34d.jpg)
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Ooo, shiny! 8)
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Been super busy lately. Definitely behind where I wanted to be by this point in the winter.
Added 1.5" of lift and bump to help clear tires. 10" shocks had to go so it got 12" Bilstein 5100s installed all around.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/14/7af01151b84f82987b897ba6e3c95fcc.jpg)
Driver's seat and harness done. Pass side seat ended up ~1" higher in the back due to ??? Dang unibodies? Needs adjusting then finish welding and all that.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/14/e88df14ec5801c99cb7b3593aac2afcc.jpg)
Still have a long punch list of things to do, but seats/harnesses are the last major item. Until I find my tires don't fit once I actually get it flexed out.
I am starting to tire a bit of maintaining this thing. I could see myself being very happy with a lower maintenance (maybe) Atom/Moose type build but that would require me to emotionally unattach myself from this and then take on a lot more work than just patching or cutting this up until I'm happy.
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The grass is only a tiny bit greener over here - and we can't go get ice cream, ever... :)
Tapatalking in traffic
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Looking more and more like a Dakota... :P
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Raisin Jeep
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build that would require me to emotionally unattach myself from this and then take on a lot more work than just patching or cutting this up until I'm happy.
Looking more and more like a Dakota... :P
I told him that last night too! It wont be unattaching emotionally from jeep... It'll be his jeep turning into the look of the Dakota, not necessarily saying cutting up more into his jeep disappearing in a bad way. A new thing would become an attachment too, and a lot of work, but something fun to think about for future when there's time and space. Whatever the jeep ends up being in the future it will still be the same jeep, morphed in a good way. Like everyone, changes with age, and it's just progression and fun shaped into the cage!
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sell it... get a mountain bike ;D
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ha, and i was thinking the other day options for a 1ton street xj meh
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I think Hannah is missing the point with the Dakota comparisons...
I don't feel like I have space that's my own to tie up for buggy build while also maintaining my Jeep. Buggy would also take money - probably doable, but I'd rather spend that money paying off my truck loan ASAP rather than starting another project.
In reality, it will most likely continue to get thin metal cut off or plated over. Body crunching around tube. Maybe an Atlas? About all that's left to break in the drivetrain. That is by far my cheapest and easiest route to getting out on some of these gnarly New England trails on sticky 39s.
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We forgot what it was like to drive a jeep on the road for fun.
Got a few miles in this weekend and it was fun.
Like mike said... it's not always greener on the buggy side of the fence.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Mine is currently off the road. Would not pass emissions, last I checked it was only the speedometer not working. I can only imagine trailering it somewhere and telling the inspector he has to climb into it with no door.
I drove it around a bit last year. Get food, fuel up before loading in trailer, etc. Honestly, it drove terrible and seemed like it was turning out to be one of those things that sounded more fun than it actually was. I think I get off more on driving 30 year old computerless diesel things around more than big tire things at this point. Plus stickies.
There are some really badass trails the further you get into the northeast that are about 1/2 the travel time to Rausch for us. I am seeing the writing on the wall that my mostly full bodied thing does not really belong there. Doesn't mean I can't try, I suppose.
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Some inspiration for staying the course:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/a81e09855cd7a851e7e93c8d45625874.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/246a017272084f2eb179e32c0c40d4f6.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/7eb8f9b37b3ae3f944c0d603de1b24d0.jpg)
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wrinkly
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buggy looks way easier
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buggy looks way easier
From where I am now, I don't think it would be
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Large wrinkle in trans tunnel. Clearly flexing there, enough to work harden and crack along that ridge on a couple spots. Not really a mode of failure I immediately understand the cause of, though I bet it explains my seat height weirdness.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/16/01ef58c74b31cf495077ef152620fbb5.jpg)
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Torsional flex would be my bet. Unibody FTW?! :o
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Wow
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Holy unibody.
Any chance it could have been there pre-cage? Is there a low spreader in front or could the bottoms of the A pillars be coming together with front axle loads on the links somehow?
Tapatalking in traffic
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do you still have the rear gate?
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Pre-cage is possible. This is behind the center console, between B and C pillars. I did notice once before from underneath that the floor was a bit separated there, but it appeared to have take some rock impacts so I didn't think too much of it. I never inspected from the inside, and certainly not well enough to notice any cracks.
Rear hatch is still there and functioning.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/0807c6be97f0af3b46a03e67e4a3f255.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/899d40251dd960f9859726fcfb87f2b1.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/e6b40f9e1fc31fc59032073d0f0e03bf.jpg)
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looking good!
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Don't have full steering at full stuff, but they rub on smooth surfaces so fine for now.
Just about ready for Big Dogs
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Decided to rework bumper in order to make a little room to stretch the front a bit more to get the tire out of that fender tube at full stuff when turning.
Will finish other side tomorrow. Also need to move shock mounts on axle outboard of current mounts, pass side shock was bending from interference with unibody rail at full droop.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/84e3659f458538bf139e9fa32ce27eae.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/92471df8bd9370912bba2a93554b7d6d.jpg)
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Working overtime to keep it Cherokee! ;D
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Reworked bumper tube and 3/4" stretch made lock-lock possible at full stuff on pass side, driver side saw an improvement but still rubs a good amount on the fender tube. Nothing obviously different side-side throwing a tape measure on multiple things. Difference in trackbar arc depending which side is up/down? Not sure, but living with it for now.
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Track bar will change things significantly. Passenger stuff moves the axle to passenger, passenger drop moves axle to driver.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Both front axles torn down and reassembled yesterday. Probably drank two gallons of water and it still probably wasn't enough.
Rear driver caliper bracket had broken so that was replaced and prototype Torq locker was reinstalled for good after being sent out for inspection.
Front end had a Torq unit installed as well. Found backlash a bit loose, driver upper ball joint loose (still Moog junk never changed from initial swap on that side) and pass side wheel bearing sounded pretty rumbly during tightening.
Wheeling the next 3 out of 4 weekends so hopefully <200hp and low speed will keep it alive! Probably looking at a full tear down again this winter to remedy all. Lot of work with steering attached to cover.
On the plus side, I am very much looking forward to being able to steer in driveways or parking lots!
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First pic of this page looks so awesome. I dig it more than any buggy.
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First pic of this page looks so awesome. I dig it more than any buggy.
Thanks M! If only it wheeled like a buggy...
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Some highlights from Field and Forest this weekend. Pretty insane red trails out there.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/904fc433074dc4b28e24014d60efeae7.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/6bd06e92bd35c896a8076671df0bdfa5.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/315bd883249d6767e6541cbff5126def.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/645e582a46671e4f3dd8683711585cab.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/e863432cf6355264527cb1cf6d6573c7.jpg)
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Last hill climb at end of "Easy Street" with a buggy after H for comparison
https://vimeo.com/180681174 (https://vimeo.com/180681174)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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looks awesome
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Last hill climb at end of "Easy Street" with a buggy after H for comparison
https://vimeo.com/180681174 (https://vimeo.com/180681174)
Awesome video. The XJ looked like it had a easier time going through that compared to buggy (was he showing off though?)
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https://youtu.be/WfwnSgePAhs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/f8811ab4d1cdbb9d03e441b899e8687f.jpg)
Will inspect tomorrow, but damage seemed minimal considering how hard the roll.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/958b0d4cbffb9118b7d6dabae8b973ab.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/f07fed08b2d889687c8a965259364376.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/4633e76058fd9b244b13bb275f79346e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/cb9369ff32d74f4e8564f4406672d243.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Shit, son!
Do I spy still-whole windshield glass?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Windshield is still there, little crunched on driver lower section. Actually started cracking along passenger A pillar after fall crawl at F&F, removing and not replacing will be on winter to do list.
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Cage did it's job. 8)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/778e3b1fda9c9bca45f337fc4cede552.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/78237944bcbc5c590018bcd72b16150e.jpg)
Prepping for a large winter upgrade expenditure. But still less than last year's winter upgrade expenditures.
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build a buggy already man
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Knew that was coming. Ha
I will at some point. It's fine. This is an upgrade for anything I build down the road.
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ill build you a budget chassis.... did it for troy
8-9$ a foot assembled is do able. most cars are 180-230' of tube. can always do the hard parts and leave the straight stuff for you to fill in makes it easier for me...
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Klune V to a Ford 205?
I've been looking at options for a twin stick drivers drop case, and that has never crossed my mind...
Details are appreciated..
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It's a D&D billet box (budget Klune from Pirate vendor) with 231 guts and an early Bronco Dana 20 with a Jeep input conversion. Comes to around 6.4:1 in low low. There is a 32spl AA rear output on it but no upgrades exist for anything else including the coarse 10spl front output. Seen many pics of broken in half D20 cases including from people here and do not want that. Been running it for 5 years and it's treated me well but I have wheeled a lot harder this last year than ever before so I'm upgrading to a 4.3 Atlas. I considered running a 205 behind the box but no easy way to get there from where I am and I don't think anything more than a single low range 4ish to 1 is needed for an auto anyway. You can buy NWF or Klune boxes that will bolt to a 205 though.
Wish you could just 4:1 a 205 but you can't. Atlas it is.
Smike, we can talk sometime at Rausch this year. I have been watching a lot of small light 4cyl rigs on big stickies just killing it this past year and have had that path on my mind. Work space is an issue right now for me building something ground up.
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build a buggy already man
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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find a picture(s) of what you want and send it over to get me thinking.
what drives the need for such gearing? lack of hp / trans cooling?
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having driven both 4:1 and 2:1, I'd vastly prefer 4:1 for technical crawling.
For hauling ass, if there's enough ponies to turn the tires 2:1 is just fine. I wouldn't want to try to cone dodge with it or run super technical lines.
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5.38 gears, 2.72 t case gears <200hp and 39s leaves a lot to be desired for slow technical crawling
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I wonder why there's still no "auto" t-case/range box. Shift-on-the-fly for competition purpose.
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That shifts between low and high range automatically? I don't see the necessity, usually a quick operstion
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something powerglide based that would shift on the fly under power would shave some time and be bombproof but probably not worth the weight and driveline length since a transfer case gear or chain drive would still be needed. Would be the size of a 203 or more.
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something powerglide based that would shift on the fly under power would shave some time and be bombproof but probably not worth the weight and driveline length since a transfer case gear or chain drive would still be needed. Would be the size of a 203 or more.
Engineering is a beautiful thing.
tap auto trans's line pressure with a solenoid to flow or release the pressure to the range box. most likely use planetary gear set out of automatic transmission, then use piston and such, and more?
I think this is where the new 6L80, 6L90, the newer 6 speed GM auto trans come in picture, no fancy range box or doubler needed.
6L80 is used in 1/2 ton GM trucks and some cars, so they're going to be plentiful
first gear is 4.027 with double over drive, 0.852 (5th) 0.667 (6th)
compared to the ancient 3 speed TH400 with first gear at 2.48, third gear (direct) at 1:1.
Novak shows 6L80 to be shorter than TH400, even.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/6l80
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/th400/
They're relatively bulletproof in stock form IIRC. 8)
*end thread derail*
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Pleasantly surprised with that weight after it weighed in at 4900 a few years ago.
4.3 Atlas worked great. Front output is now closer to front axle and higher, front driveshaft double cardan not happy even after some grinding for clearance. Ordered fancy Tom Woods offset u joint to run at case front output with single joint shaft. They claim 45* with yoke grinding.
Had issue stalling and backfiring out intake under medium and heavy load at low RPM twice in a row running Gauntlet backwards. Weak fuel pump? MAP sensor or something else that helps engine react to load?
Gauge cluster dead this winter after sitting in trailer for 3 months. Going to try cleaning terminals and reinstall, if no change it's getting my old cheap tablet and wireless OBD reader like Mark and Dennis run.
Got new rear shackle boxes and frame section, some new driveshafts, windshield pulled, cooler stack, fan and shroud, headed panel mounted to fender tube after roll smooshed stock rad support.
Ready for another season of abuse!
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Suckdown winch setup. Need a better way to double strap on itself other than the bolts I’m thinking.
Only real upgrade on the list for this winter. Dozen or so maintenance items and it’s ready for another year of abuse.
I think I have decided a Unimog portal axle moon buggy is the next big move. This hawg is slated for a few more years of fun though.
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Hoping to make things like this a bit more stable.
Still can’t believe I thought committing to that climb was a good idea.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/aa55e4791bcaaeb8c307fbac3865d8c7.jpg)
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Dakota 2.0 is looking good :P
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Indeed!
Pipe/tube with a couple bearings, full of grease in vain attempt to not have it seize up?
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Can I ignore this?
Not ready to build a buggy yet More patching to come!
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Edit: started this thread 6 years ago... dang.
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I’ll probably just ignore it especially if it’ll only see recreational wheeling and you’re going to build a buggy anyhow.
I kinda of made a mistake with my black XJ. Frame looked solid by just looking at it. In the end I probably easily replaced/plated at least 50% of frame.
Use this and give good whack in places and see where else are about to rot through and decide whether to patch or run as is?
(https://surewerx.com/brands/view/images/products/740901_hr.jpg)
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Unibodies seem to hide it well. Definitely shocked me when I saw it.
It’s getting some 1/8-3/16 patched over it. I’m not interested in looking for more work so that’s all I’m doing till the next spot pops up. This thing has taken so much abuse for years that I’m getting to the point where if it hasn’t been an issue yet... not sure I care. I don’t actually thing I could wheel this thing harder than I do. Needs to give me a couple-three more years of fun.
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I'll probably end up plating my inside rails while I have the axles out just to get it done and not have to worry about finding stuff like this later.