M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: TrailTamer on August 16, 2016, 11:23:43 AM
-
My third cheap XJ acquired last night.
Ran like shit. Ignition tune up, runs perfect now. Still need a good battery and driver seat mounting rebuilt. The seat is all over the place. :o
I'll like to build it to similar to my first XJ. Long arms lift kit, fab HD bumpers, rocker panels replaced with square tubing as rock sliders, 33x12.5 mudders and then some.
I'll focus on get it's mechanically to 100% then mods will start.
-
It's current status.
-
Nice!
-
Now you will have some wheels for Attica.
-
i have new or used SCRs i could sell if you are looking for some cheap 35s!
-
Now you will have some wheels for Attica.
Yes! When's the next time we can wheel there??? ;D
-
i have new or used SCRs i could sell if you are looking for some cheap 35s!
Texting ya
-
(http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1785.0;attach=2780;image)
-
Iron Rock Off Road 5.5" long arm lift kit ordered
8)
-
With the wonky adjuster doodad on the upper link?
-
Yes.
With the wonky adjuster doodad on the upper link?
My XJ Heep 1.0 had the IRO long arms without that thing. I'll see how it works.
-
mine seems to have a coarse 1" thread thing on the uppers.
-
mine seems to have a coarse 1" thread thing on the uppers.
This is the IRO thingy, rather controversial on the interwebs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/4493de799ac1bb2ca7261aa0ff20493a.jpg)
-
mine seems to have a coarse 1" thread thing on the uppers.
This is the IRO thingy, rather controversial on the interwebs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/4493de799ac1bb2ca7261aa0ff20493a.jpg)
I'll weld/mod it if it become problematic I guess.
-
o god, WTF is that mess
-
o god, WTF is that mess
thats what i was just thinking..
-
Not even sure of the theory behind that. Assume the upper link is fixed to the bracket and the bracket is allowed to slide on the axle-side bolt?
-
Not even sure of the theory behind that. Assume the upper link is fixed to the bracket and the bracket is allowed to slide on the axle-side bolt?
The silver thing seem like it's for to keep adjustment as the main part of the control arm is slotted (black color in the pic)
-
Why even put a complicated thing on there? Why not delete one side upper altogether?
-
i thought it was for pinnion angle adjustment, website says 7degrees adjustment available
-
Why even put a complicated thing on there? Why not delete one side upper altogether?
Bad idea. The passenger side "upper control arm" has already been "deleted" on this lift kit ;D
-
i thought it was for pinnion angle adjustment, website says 7degrees adjustment available
It's mostly for to adjust caster.
-
So that upper arm should be fixed...
-
So that upper arm should be fixed...
I think the same thing. I'm gonna put it on as-is and when confirmed the caster/pinion angle is correct then I'll weld the bracket thingy solid to the control arm but I'll know more once I have it in my hand. If it's not some thin sheet metal.
-
I never understood why this exists. Its no different than a normal adjustable upper arm. One of the reasons I raised an eyebrow when I read you ordered the IRO kit. ???
-
I never understood why this exists. Its no different than a normal adjustable upper arm. One of the reasons I raised an eyebrow when I read you ordered the IRO kit. ???
I had it on my first XJ (pictured in the first post in this thread) and it didn't have this thing (fixed). I was very happy with this lift kit so I got another one.
-
run it!
-
Fuck rust. ::)
-
:o
-
Holy cats
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Wow. MEME worthy!!
Can I share?
-
Go ahead. Just let me know where you share it haha.
-
looks like you might need some of the frame rail i bought for the XJ pickup!
its only metal, just cut it back till you get something good enough to weld too!
-
So, it has began
-
I can't wait to finish the dirty part of cutting out bad sections and the prepping for new frame and floors. It didn't look that bad before I start but my needle scaler kept on find holes.
-
hole > jeep
ouch!
lmk if you need more steel :)
-
i have a 5' peice and a 2' piece i can spare 2.5'x3.5" 11gage
cost was about 3$ per foot
-
Thanks Smike, that's going to help a lot on to make the driver side frame solid again. It's weird on how passenger side is still solid. We think it's all from driver's salty and wet boots.
I just ordered the following and some notes;
1) rust-free used fuel injector rail with injectors
found them on eBay and they're coming from Florida. $23 shipped, yeah! Mine is pretty rotten and I absolutely don't want any fire so it's getting changed out
2) mech fan shroud
why it seem like all of them are always found broken?
3) water pump pipe to heater core hose
rusty and it broke when we was replacing the water pump...
4) valve cover gasket (typical....)
5) intake and exhaust manifold gasket
cheap and I get to pull them to weld up small cracks on exhaust manifold and give me room to do other work
6) fuel injector O-rings
7) power steering pressure and return hoses
they're rusty and I also want them changed due to fire hazard if they leaks.
Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?
-
I cut out brake lines (old original one and 'newer' but rusty) and pulled EVAP pipes and fuel line to work on driver side frame. I also drained and pulled the fuel tank, mostly because it's straps are bad anyway and to not start a fire from working on the jeep.
I was blown away on how the jeep still ran! The harness at the fuel pump was chewed through by mice and they're full of green corrosions! I'm glad that may be why my fuel gauge don't work. I will cut and splice together and rock out.
I am heavily considering to do the gas tank tuck while I am at it. Make the bottom of the tank flat to bottom of frames, to make it easy to make and install skid plate there. Move EVAP box up and next to the tank, then build frame and close up the tank and EVAP. I am not sure yet on where to move the gas filler to. Move up on the body? I think I prefer to keep it simple and just open the hatch to fill in the tank directly.
-
Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?
If you are going to wheel it, then yes.
-
Since my XJ is manual, so my radiator have unused auto trans cooler. Any reason I shouldn't use it?
-
You don't want to pre-heat your fluid to 190*. It'll generate enough heat of it's own.
-
You don't want to pre-heat your fluid to 190*. It'll generate enough heat of it's own.
Trans cooler on the radiator is on the cool side so it's not heated to 190*.
Also liquid to liquid heat exchangers beat liquid to air heat exchanger all day long. And power steering fluid temperature get up to operating temp quickly. If it's enough to keep the auto trans cool, I don't see why it can't for a small hydraulic system.
-
I don't want you to think I refused your answer, I just shared my thoughts. More or less it's to save money unless someone have tube and fins cooler to donate to my build :)
-
by paper physics, internal coolers are more effective and simpler when sized for the application and duty.
however your internal cooler and stock radiator are not sized for aggressive off road duty and i would not recommend this type of cooling with current radiator cooling system.
the comment about "cold" side is true but we all know XJs can barely keep up off road cooling with out improvements. id slap a 40$ copper fin external cooler on over any other solution.
-
and put the cooler in front of the mechanical fan side, not the efan side so its always pulling
-
I wired my stock e-fan to a switch and leave it running all the time on the trails. Little more complicated on OBDII Jeeps if you don't want a CEL light but there are lots of write ups over there.
My Jeep never gets over 210-215 on the trail, even under multiple WOT assaults on obstacles. Clean rad, fresh 50/50 coolant and fan running.
-
I wired my stock e-fan to a switch and leave it running all the time on the trails. Little more complicated on OBDII Jeeps if you don't want a CEL light but there are lots of write ups over there.
My Jeep never gets over 210-215 on the trail, even under multiple WOT assaults on obstacles. Clean rad, fresh 50/50 coolant and fan running.
That's what I did on my '95 XJ I had. I also plan on to add hood louvers in the spring when it's warming up again.
-
Little at a time tackling this rust disaster.
-
Torn the engine down some also.
Welded the crack on the exhaust manifold. It was just small crack so I figured I'll save it.
Also found one of freeze plug rusted through and leaking so they'll all get changed too.
-
A lot of new floors will be going in at some point as well :o
-
Center section frame repair almost completed. Need to cut off lower control arm brackets to gain access to finish the repair.
Both axles pulled. Found out they're 3.07. I ASSumed they're 3.55, I'll run them for now.
To my surprise leaf spring bolts came right out! A lot of grunt to turn bolts. Driver side leaf spring out. Passenger side almost out when I called it a night last night.
Front and rear sections of frame prep (and more rust repair as needed) for frame stiffeners and shackle relocator brackets install.
-
I can't decide on the limit on building (or turd polishing) the D30
-
In my opinion...
$459 chromo kit from Dan
Gusset/replace LCA mounts, cheap/easy
$65 Solid cover
$250? Aussie
That covers all the bases without breaking the bank, and you could probably hoard stock shafts and see if you even have a problem. Anything more and I think you're getting solidly into turd polish territory.
Edit: and gears depending tire size...
-
I'll be running 35x12.5R15 mud tires on steelies. I'm tempting to buy Artec's truss/brackets as they're on sale. The deal ends tonight
-
shafts and locker, front lower control arm brackets done!
-
My axles currently have 3.07. I will find out if it's tolerable when I'm done building the XJ.
-
Aussie or full replacement locker? I think a full locker will help ring and pinion to live a lot longer.
-
Unless you're jumping it, you probably don't need the truss.
3.07s will be annoying with 35s.
Otherwise, what Harry and sMike said...
-
full locker like a spool?
spool id imagine would help the 297s but kind of annoying in a jeep.
-
full locker like a spool?
spool id imagine would help the 297s but kind of annoying in a jeep.
I mean like a Detroit. Not the little locker that replace the spider gear
-
I have read many times that adding things like truss and full case locker helps reduce deflection and gears live longer... seems like splitting hairs on a D30 to me. If you have 3.07s, full case and Artec money would be much better spent regearing.
-
Having a bling D30 and 8.25, I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gears are about the furthest you should go if you plan on keeping stock axles for a while. I had 3.55s in mine and it was awful with 35s. Cruising at 70 on the 90 in second gets really old. I also wouldn't bother with a full case, aussies are plenty good enough.
-
I have read many times that adding things like truss and full case locker helps reduce deflection and gears live longer... seems like splitting hairs on a D30 to me. If you have 3.07s, full case and Artec money would be much better spent regearing.
I've seen few D30s taco'd in front of me in Midwest. My thought was to make the D30 housing a good baseline then upgrade it's gears, shafts, locker, etc. later. It's hard to straighten a pretzeled housing haha
It's going to be a trail rig and I'm not going to be racing with some rice burners and it's 5 speed so I think 3.07 will be ok for now. Big pinion gear 8)
I was asking about locker thing because I don't want to pay things twice and work on it twice when I could've done it once and forget it.
As of now my axles' plan are;
stock shafts with new spicer joints with snap rings
Open front, weld rear
Inner C truss
Sleeve tubes
Ruff Stuff covers
Artec's lower control arm mounts
Later;
Chromo shafts. if I break them... I never broke any D30 shafts with my XJ Heep 1.0 on 34" pizza cutter Swampers
Lockers
Gears
Phase 2;
1 ton axles? 8)
-
Having a bling D30 and 8.25, I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gears are about the furthest you should go if you plan on keeping stock axles for a while. I had 3.55s in mine and it was awful with 35s. Cruising at 70 on the 90 in second gets really old. I also wouldn't bother with a full case, aussies are plenty good enough.
2nd gear at 70mph? Lol
-
Anyway here's some pics. I suck at to remember to take some pics. Front sections are on but didn't take pics. Rear section almost all prepped to be welded on.
That white dust on the floor is from bondo'd over crumbled area.
-
.....
-
.,..,.,..
-
Beefing it up
-
Yes I am a bit tired. :P
-
3.07s with a 5spd is going to be clutch burning impossible to crawl anything crappy. Even with 4.56/4.88s I still see people struggle until they get t-case gears.
Man that's a lot of tires! Almost worth the effort to go steal Spencer's tire machine for that!
-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revolution-Gear-Package-4-56s-W-Master-Kits-for-Jeep-XJ-96-01-C8-25-D30short-/172403610326?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item28240e52d6:g:T-oAAOSwubRXF9UU&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-2001-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-DANA-30-FRONT-END-USA-4340-CHROMOLY-AXLE-KIT-NEW-/331143938319?hash=item4d19b7810f:g:kWUAAMXQbjxRDBK3&vxp=mtr
or get Dan at DMR for shafts
Cora for a locker
-
need to check carrier breaks too. think you need a front, not sure about rear.
-
There is carrier break in the D30. No carrier break for the C8.25
The link you provided is for low pinion D30. I have the high pinion.
How this one looks?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-CHRYSLER-8-25-DANA-30-4-56-RING-AND-PINION-MASTER-GEAR-PKG-/331578304051?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253Df643e7c7f3e54276a462f3d5818cab45%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D25%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D172403610326&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
-
I suck at remembering to take pics. I just finished the D30. It's being POR-15 painted now.
-
POR in the shower? :o
-
LOL. that'll be a huge disaster!
The axle was in the shower for degreasing, metal prep treatment prior painting which was done in the dining room.
-
still not as bad as tire grooving/siping in the kitchen with a grinder.. right SMike?
-
Should I go for 30 spline or stay with 27 spline inner axle shafts for D30?
Anyone actually broke a D30 stub shaft beside the yoke?
-
yoke and u joint is the only failures i have ever seen on a 30.
in my CJ after chromo shafts- hubs then rings gears were the weak link
-
Rockauto apparently have good price on them
-
30 spline inners for $50 more
-
yoke and u joint is the only failures i have ever seen on a 30.
in my CJ after chromo shafts- hubs then rings gears were the weak link
I want to say I concur. I don't recall see anyone broke axle shafts, only yoke/u-joints.
-
Last time I checked, Dan's chromo shaft/Spicer joint kit was $459. I will be home for Christmas, could grab from him and save you shipping
-
With the xmas around the corner I'm not sure if I'll have enough time to finish the build (or at least enough to be in wheeling status) for new year :(
I wondered will anyone come help me to finish the build next week? I'll provide beers and food? Haha
-
Small updates....
Rear section frame stiffeners half way welded on. I am so glad I opt'd to cut out entire floor! made it so easy to work on rear section of the jeep.
Plasma'd cut entire stock fuel filler door, tunnel, etc. to have it relocated to inside. My plan is to have it mounted in rear on driver side by the D-pillar.
Plasma'd out factory rear shackle brackets to install shackle relocate brackets
yesterday I took my ruff stuff covers with me to work. I counter sunk bolt holes to use flat head bolts. they came out really nice to have no bolt sticking out! although flat head bolts I got use 3/16" allen drive size so I am not sure what torque I will be able to crank it down at. I am anticipating to order Torx-Plus flat head bolts from McMaster-Carr. The one I found, 5/16-18 with IP40 drive size. I found a chart online claims the IP40 is rated to go as high as 60.5 ft-lb. I highly doubt the 3/16" allen wrench will achieve that torque value without stripping or breaking. I will find out soon...
https://www.mcmaster.com/#94414a588/=163eh5x
-
those tork plus bolts are nasty! big pain on 4l60e bell housings!
-
down side to any flat bolt like that is it's damn difficult to get a vice grips on them when the head gets narfed
-
I have found that everything ends up getting smeared on the underside. At least with normal hex head bolt you can always get something to grab on the outside
-
Smeared is a great word for what happens under there!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Axle parts ordered
YGK003
Yukon gear package. HP30/8.25 4.56
YGLD30-4-27
Grizzly Locker D30 3.73+
YA W24110
Yukon D30 4340 axle shaft set with Spicer joints
I still need to decide what to do to lock the C8.25
-
I'd just run an aussie in the stock axles. I barely notice mine other than the random clunking.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
-
I'll start do some skid plate/armor work this weekend.
What's sheet metal minimum thickness I should go for? I am thinking to use what I already have; ~0.15" and I'll have back side braced so it won't cave-in as much. Upgrade skid plate material later if it become a problem?
-
4.56 ring and pinion installed in C8.25 with Smike tonight. Smike said it was a stubborn axle.
-
threaded caps wer not cooperating. usually you can loosen the bolts 1/4 turn and they move and when you tighten them back, the backlash is not affected.
that thing was a pain. all good we got it and got an acceptable pattern.
also reminded me, its really easier to set up gears when axle is in a jeep. i guess i need a fancy axle table sometime soon :)
-
Some progress over the weekend
-
Looks good Brett! Keep it up!
-
Wanted to play a little
-
i would just do a tuck and trim on the fenders like i have done on many
this was some tube work i did on Wonder 1.0
(http://www.m4wdfabrications.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_949220027.JPG?t=1473873643)
-
i would just do a tuck and trim on the fenders like i have done on many
this was some tube work i did on Wonder 1.0
(http://www.m4wdfabrications.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_949220027.JPG?t=1473873643)
I would but there are too much rust rot to do that, as you can see on passenger side rear fender. I am thinking to have tube/flat fenders made with tubes welded straight to sliders and bumpers.
I'll figure something out later in the build.
-
Steering box de-greased and removed broken bolt.
good steering shaft stolen from Tom/Smike's old red XJ
installed steering box with new-ish bolts and hooked up the steering shaft. It's almost steerable!
I have the Chevy 1-ton steering kit from Ruff Stuff. I don't think the tie rod will clear the diff cover. I ordered the offset TRE from Ruff Stuff so I can complete the steering.
I'm debating on should I relocate the axle side track bar mount or leave it as is for now.
-
I am debating on should I bother to try 'upgrade' the upper control arm mount bolt (on top of the pumpkin). I have 14mm bolts in everything else; lower control arm mounts, frame side mounts, leaf springs, and shackles.
Only one tiny ass bolt is this axle side upper control arm mount. M10 10.9 seem to be asking for trouble?
-
Easier to upgrade now but there are a lot of TJs and Cherokees on the trails with that stock bolt.
-
Easier to upgrade now but there are a lot of TJs and Cherokees on the trails with that stock bolt.
I figured, I'll look into it later since I have other stuff to do still. IRO's "Y" control arm have the cam for caster/pinion adjuster which I'll need to modify to accept larger bolt and put a different bushing with larger bolt hole.
-
Top link sees much less load since it doesn't see impact loads. that said, easier now than later if there's a replacement bushing that's easy to do to upgrade that bolt
-
uppers do see a component of forward impact because the lowers on a D30 are below the center line of the axle.
with that said, i bet it sees a lot more load because of the stupid semi - triangulated 4link setup and a track bar
-
Rock sliders mocked up. Thoughts?
-
Passenger side slider welded on solid.
-
Whole hog. Looks great.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
any proplems with the doors opening and closing with that much of the jeep gone?
looks good-
a piece of HDPE would be slick on the under sides of those supports to boat side it almost
-
any proplems with the doors opening and closing with that much of the jeep gone?
looks good-
a piece of HDPE would be slick on the under sides of those supports to boat side it almost
Doors open and close fine but the b pillar is floppy. I'm going to reattach it all back to the rock sliders to make it solid again.
It's kinda boat side as I did cut into doors. I went high as I can without getting into door seals.
I was going to skin them with sheet metal from MikeMike. Not sure about ponying up on some HDPE sheets.
Also, I got replacement floor pans in the mail from Rockauto. I hope they'll save me a ton of time to put floors back in it.
-
I never really like welding thin sheet metal. I think this will do.
-
Looks great!
-
Looks great!
Thanks. The "LET'S DO THIS" orange bucket is directly under the rock slider. I'm really pleased on how much more clearance this 'mild' boatside is turning out.
-
Almost time to fire it up.
New valve cover gasket.
Newer intake manifold and reuse exhaust manifold (I welded a small crack)
-
Donor's head ports look bad compared to my XJ's head ports even with more miles on the odo
-
o boy, changing things that dont need to be changed!
-
Too easy to not to. Original intake manifold have crack though.
-
Will it be at the picnic Saturday?
-
Will it be at the picnic Saturday?
Yes, that's my goal to take it out wheeling at the picnic this Saturday. I have Thursday and Friday off from work for in case things get really #lastminuting
-
8)
-
O god. It's like the flip side of #Millering
-
A little gas down the throttle body she fired right up. Looking good so far 8)
-
May need alternator. All 3 alternators we have are seizing.
-
Engine is 99% ready to go. Brake lines ran. Down pipe to cat exhaust installed. 3 out of 4 fender flares re-mounted (for now). Driver side rock slider almost done.
Go look at/buy car trailer tomorrow then meeting.
Thursday/Friday
finish rock slider
plate over between frame and rock sliders
mount gas tank and rear upper shock mounts (gas tank will be mounted to it)
install brake calipers and finish brake lines
install fuel line from gas tank to fuel rail
weld in floors
Install bumpers
wash
paint everything where needed
reinstall hood
annnnnddddd go wheeling on Saturday.
Maybe replace the alternator if it's not charging once it's running.
-
That's a sizable list
-
that is a big list haha
-
that is a big list haha
I left out a bunch of stuff, including important stuff LOL.
install rear aussie locker
install front ring and pinion w/ locker
install front axle shafts
fab and weld in front seat mounts
(most likely no rear seats for now)
Install muffler and tailpipe, but I may just have it dumped right after muffler temporarily
Hack-N-Tap SYE
Install Driveshafts
Test flex on ramp
adjust rear shock mounts as needed
cut where needed for more clearance
-
o i missed the part about thursday and friday off.
that would be no prob then :)
-
Front axle and suspension all done. Tie rod and drag link built and installed. Brakes, axle shafts, etc. installed. Wheels will not clear the offset tie rod ends. I tried Smike's 2" spacers and worked but tires really get into fender well. I will revisit this later when running and testing on the ramp.
-
running offset to keep away from the diff cover?
-
running offset to keep away from the diff cover?
Yes. This is another thing to try. I'll try put normal tie rod ends on and see how 'bad' it hit on the cover, possibly grind/cut the cover for clearance if feasible.
-
Gas tank cradle and upper shock mount tacked in place. I'll weld it all in solid tomorrow. A bit overkill I think
Not sure on how much shocks should be extended at ride height. I'm thinking to give them a go.
-
Shackle set up right now for reference. I think there'll be more down travel than up travel.
-
Pics of front end. I know track bar is 'wrong'. I'll redo it later.
One pic is with 2" spacer, other without.
-
looks like those shocks are 10s or 12s? I'd aim for at least 4" up if you have the room. as far inboard as they are you may need a bump stop further out to keep the tires out of the body when articulating.
you have the ramp home, if you have time I'd leave them tacked until it's moveable and check out the flex.
I'd watch for how close you get to shackle inversion depending on how soft those rear springs are too. Probably be OK but worth a look.
cradle looks really good. solid.
-
go with regular heims so wheels fit, use stock front diff cover or put small bend in tie rod to bump away from cover?
-
my pipe kinker will bend 250 wall DOM shallow bends no prob FYI
-
my pipe kinker will bend 250 wall DOM shallow bends no prob FYI
msg sent, I think regular TRE with bent tie rod will work good.
-
looks like those shocks are 10s or 12s? I'd aim for at least 4" up if you have the room. as far inboard as they are you may need a bump stop further out to keep the tires out of the body when articulating.
Look like 12s
Part# 8368
Ext. 29.5"
Comp. 17.35"
Travel 12.15"
4" suspension uptravel or 4" shock uptravel? I think they're right about there at 4" uptravel as-is. I can move the gas tank cradle's vertical supports up, up to 1.5" with new tubes made that go from horizontal tube to floor.
FYI my plan with this XJ to be streetable and to replace my Daily Driver Chevy Blazer.
-
FYI my plan with this XJ to be streetable and to replace my Daily Driver Chevy Blazer.
important detail there!
4-5" suspension uptravel, squeeze a bit more if you can as long as it stays low. 3" or less is where it starts to really get intolerable.
I think your current 4 is probably a decent place to start as long as shock dampening and spring rate are adequate.
Anything to keep the tie rod straight will help it not kink in the future. if it's something like 1.5x.25 material you should be fine anyway though I'd expect. agreed on ditching the offset TREs unless you go to 16s or 17s.
-
Offset TRE chopped down worked. Yes! Wheel spacers can stay off. ;D
-
Gas tank cradle fully welded in. Upper shock mount moved up 1.5" and only tacked on for now.
-
get her done!
-
get her done!
Trying!
All 4 calipers' brake hose installed and mounted.
Brake hose from frame to axle mounted.
Last piece of frame repair prepped to be welded in tomorrow.
Tomorrow & Friday:
Weld in the frame repair we made tonight
Install front drive shaft and adjust front axle's caster
Hack n tap the t case
Install rear drive shaft
Run brake lines & bleed
Install gas line
Add some gas
Start??
Install muffler with turn down
Install floor
Mount seats
Test on ramp
Finish rear shock mounts
Install bumpers
Paint
Optional:
Plate over gas tank
New floor in cargo component
-
Muffler is optional for you too ;D
-
no mufflers in the back of the trail line! haha! nice.
-
no mufflers in the back of the trail line! haha! nice.
You still belong in back of the trail line with smoke screen you have going on!
-
touche'
-
Offset TREs chopped down to allow lock to lock steering.
I think they should be ok as I'm not going to drive at full lock in circles for miles.
-
these are what i was thinking to help you- i have seen them at local autoparts stores for cheap
https://setgroupusa.com/products/1-wheel-spacers-8mm-or-5-16-thick-fits-all-5x4-5-5x4-75-5x135-5x114-3?dfw_tracker=14498-14652565639&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLDMBRDFARIsACNmiX-LpARdsVuX7ooLh_-VQy4T6pZnVbbM5PRM2j77G4EyNs4nX_II64QaAlSbEALw_wcB
-
these are what i was thinking to help you- i have seen them at local autoparts stores for cheap
https://setgroupusa.com/products/1-wheel-spacers-8mm-or-5-16-thick-fits-all-5x4-5-5x4-75-5x135-5x114-3?dfw_tracker=14498-14652565639&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLDMBRDFARIsACNmiX-LpARdsVuX7ooLh_-VQy4T6pZnVbbM5PRM2j77G4EyNs4nX_II64QaAlSbEALw_wcB
I had poor experience with them. They're probably OK with aluminum/alloy wheels because they usually have flat mounting surface.
I'm thinking to use old rotors' center portion to use as wheel spacers, automatic snug fit over lug studs and hub centric and free.
-
old rotor sounds great idea, would take 5 min to make on my lathe, rotor steel pretty casty soft
-
could chuck up an 8.8 or d35 shaft then bolt on rotor to shaft to turn
-
could chuck up an 8.8 or d35 shaft then bolt on rotor to shaft to turn
Debating on to have you to cut them for me or bolt rotors on backward on my XJ, put it in gear and cut it down with cut off wheel, finish up with flap wheel. ???
-
If you can drop them off at the shop between now and when troy shows up with dana60 bearing parts i can do them, but as soon as troy gets to shop around 5 we have to hussel on his car to get the front axle rebuilt. all bearings hosed from diff mud.
-
hmm rotor steel didnt like my lathe but we got it done.
how did that fuel rail work out for you?
-
hmm rotor steel didnt like my lathe but we got it done.
how did that fuel rail work out for you?
I had to finish it by grinding them down flat. They're definitely cast iron of some kind. Tough to grind but I got it done.
Fuel rail worked perfect, zero leak.
I'm glad I get to use drive shafts we took from Tom's old red XJ cuz manual trans drive shafts are kinda too short.
Brakes bled and ready.
-
That stinged a little. Progress!
-
Reused original wheel center caps. Look much better.
-
Reused original wheel center caps. Look much better.
Neat!
-
Progress!
-
I am prepared to really like this jeep.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Bumper almost done. Currently tacked on. Hatch area welded on the bottom, locaated & welded the hatch latch. Close nice and solid again. Floors 90% patched, ugly but functional. Fully committed to “finish†XJ by Friday for the FLX spring picnic ‘18 (more like it’ll be a mud bog than picnic? Haha)
-
Tweaked the unibody pretty good today. Landed rockslider/boatside on a Boulder hard.
-
Shit
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
MUST TO DO LIST:
-paint roof white
-add heat shield to keep floor temp down
-close up floor and make tool bag/box tie downs
-cooler mount/tie downs
-
I think shocks I got from IRO (Doetsch 8000s) are WAY too stiff. Bounces pretty hard on bumps/rocks.
-
Too stiff of shocks would be hard hits, zero bounce.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
It’s also easy to confuse over sprung vs too stiff shocks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Too stiff of shocks would be hard hits, zero bounce.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll unbolt shocks and see how it roll over bumps. I remember it bounces pretty easily on jack stands before I installed shocks.
It get tiring at RC/AOAA esp that it’s manual so any bounce get fed through throttle via my leg.
-
I should do something about this.
-
That happened to the upper on mine as well.
-
simple solution, remove the D30 :P
-
You can buy Jonny joints that will replace that bushing. Sleeve housing is machined to lightly press in just like the bushing would. Will take much more abuse than another rubber unit will.
-
You can buy Jonny joints that will replace that bushing. Sleeve housing is machined to lightly press in just like the bushing would. Will take much more abuse than another rubber unit will.
Those are what I'm gonna end up doing when I start working on my truss for the 60. That way if I ever want to take out an upper link, all I have to do is change the long arm side to a solid mount.
-
Replaced both unit wheel bearings
Removed 1/4†homemade wheel spacers
Replaced tie rod ends with regular tie rod end
Trimmed coil spring perches
Notched diff cover
Re-soldered both front door power window switch
Replaced passenger side front window regulator
Replaced steering wheel
Installed cruise control
-
Installed few interior panels.
Fixed lights for the most part
Charged A/C and blow cold now
Found that e fan is in-op
Performance all-aluminum radiator arrived
-
New blingy radiator & e-fan went in. This fan make it the 3rd unit, brand new on this third round and hopefully last a whole lot longer this time. First one in-op, second show evidence it caught/almost catch on fire at some point.
New fan clutch going in while I’m at it.
Stock motor mount on driver side is on its way out. Ordered performance engine & trans mounts. Pulled the drive belt to inspect pulley bearings and found that the alternator is seizing. I’ll get Marc’s spare alternator this weekend at Attica. Just empty every pockets.
Bought a new-to-me front bumper to modify & install.
-
Shiny!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Today’s shakedown at Attica revealed a bad fuel pump. Initially we thought it was the dreaded fuel vapor lock so I removed the hood. This didn’t change anything.
Eventful trip back home as my dodge ran out of diesel. ::)
I got it to act up again at home the filter/regulator felt warm. I put my spare fuel pump in it and it’s way quieter and the problem went away.
Round two tomorrow! 8)
-
Round two shake down today was successful.
The fuel pump restored power and no more random stumbling, stalling.
No more overheating even in this heat with A/C running. The cooling system repair/upgrade also fixed its hot idle oil pressure problem too.
Success
-
Ordered D50 4.56 ring & pinion from RockAuto for $76 plus shipping. Too good price to pass up even it’s the Dorman brand.
-
I think I beated on it more than what it owes me over the weekend.
More upgrades (& repairs) coming.
-
Glad it worked well other than the known (to attendees) damage! Nice to get a project out and about!!
-
Caliper removed and bled air out and capped off with some bolt and nut
Not looking to spend much on a new caliper. I’ll try new pistons and seals from RockAuto if the caliper is repairable (after I remove cracked pistons)
-
I don't think I've ever seen a caliper worth repairing rather than replacing money wise. Not a $35 caliper?
-
I don't think I've ever seen a caliper worth repairing rather than replacing money wise.
This.
-
I don't think I've ever seen a caliper worth repairing rather than replacing money wise. Not a $35 caliper?
You’re right. I was keep on thinking it’s like >$100/caliper (I just put new calipers on my dodge)
$25 each and no core charge on rockauto. I’ll get that one.
-
get a pair of them save yourself the hassel on the other side.
-
get a pair of them save yourself the hassel on the other side.
yup
-
Debating on what to do about the radiator.
1) take it out and bend/hammer it straight-er & apply JB welds if wherever it may need.
2) take to empire for an estimate (& repair if cheap)
-
A/C still fully functional, I’ll just try to straighten the condenser.
I’m gonna look for at least 15†by 36†of steel Expanded mesh to go in between condenser and grille.
-
If it’s not leaking now run it. Carry coarse ground black pepper which you always should anyway for small rad leaks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Surprisingly no leak. I’ll need to do something about it regardless. Mechanical fan is too close to it now.
I just threw a $89 offer to the eBay seller. I paid $89 for it in early June. It jumped to $135 now.
-
looks like the same radiator matt runs in the buggy up top. i think he has a good used unit with minor damage
-
Replace bent mechanical fan
Front axle removal
New oil pan (rusted through)
New high volume oil pump
New rear main seal
Remove stock upper control arms
Upgrade to 136A alternator
Replace radiator
Replace front calipers
Complete the winch install. Need to redo some battery cables
Replace unit bearing bolts
Replace control arm bushing on top of the D30 (honed out stock replacement bushing to accept 9/16†bolt)
Delete the cam adjuster bracket via weld washers to control arm
Change oil in both axles and install magnets. Upgrade bolts to torx-plus
Repair catalyst converter (pipe broke off!)
Install hood
Install header
Install front axle
Replace rear axle u-bolts to 5/8â€
If I have time:
Remove t-case to reseal (leaking at where both halves meets) and to clock it up higher
Finish the floor/cover around the gas tank & shocks (if I have time)
Build skid plates for engine, trans and t-case. Unsure yet about how to protect cat & muffler.
Install the drilled & tapped rebuilt steering box (thank Marc!)
Relocate windshield wiper washer tank
Update: decided to deal with exhaust another time. Stock exhaust hang low. I’ll like to redo exhaust for better ground clearance and to give me more room to build skid plates later.
-
Plated & insures my XJ earlier today. First drive immediately shown there’s two main problems I may need to address.
1) Steering still feels tight (ball joints are still tight)
2) this is the main problem. Gas on or off, it wants to change lanes. I gotta try swap rear tires to have same diameter and see whether this is why, likely is, though
Current Shocks (doestech) are definitely overdamped.
-
Made a tiny tail pipe to go over the axle.
Dramatically reduced in cab noises!!!
-
Did some work on this puppy yesterday and today.
Found D30 pinion bearing loose. It was fine when inspected on ~Aug 21
My guess is pinion bearings are on their way out. I’ll find out soon enough.
-
Pinion bearings & races show containment damage. Bearing kit & u-bolt yoke on way, thank you Arie!
-
glad you caught it!
-
Reused shims
-
Trying to find out why it have darty steering. Driver side steering knuckle is really difficult to rotate. Knocked both knuckles off for better measurement & ball joint inspection; ball joints checked out good, driver side inner C 1/8†shorter than passenger side. Straightened via bottle jack and now both sides are 8-3/4†(top side to bottom side)
-
Threw my XJ back together last night. Massive improvement! No more white knuckle driving. The darty, twitchy steering are completely gone. No more surprise lane merge. Super tight & responsive steering, excellent return to center, stops & goes straight, go exactly where I steer it to. Tested good and smooth at +75 mph
95% sure it’s lane merge attempts were from binding ball joints (ball joints misaligned from bent inner C) and insufficient caster. I modified track bar frame side mount, to line up better with drag link and not to rub on tire on tight right turns.
Need to put in real bump stops. But for now I’ll just let drag link & track bar do it’s self clearancing on the oil pan ;D
-
wonderful!
-
Easily will go over 4,500 once I’m done with the build. Scaled at 4,400lbs
-
I’m 60-70% sure I fixed my XJ’s rear locker drivability problems. Hack n tap SYE’s yoke failed & move back forth on the output shaft, essentially make rear driveline double slip yoke’d. I fixed it via a spacer between yoke and dust plate to hold it in place.
E-fan died, AGAIN. This is the third fan that died in my XJ. The first two were used units. Third was brand new. What gives...
-
I think I've killed that many fans in 571 in 5 years of mud racing. That doesn't make sense.
-
All of 3 efans died after a period of no use. The third (new) was unplugged for the winter. Plugged it in few days ago just to find it screeching, spinning slowly.
-
When I replaced mine, I bought the cheapest one rock auto had and it's been fine for 3 years *shrug*
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
-
36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS on cheapies 15x8 3.75BS black steel wheels.
Drove it up and down at Attica on Friday. Tires are awesome on traction. It just goes, even in 2wd.
Need to get rear fenders cut and add some bump stops front & rear.
Unsure if I have something going on with engine, very underpowered. It was tolerable on old 35s. 5th gear useless unless perfectly flat or downhill.
-
As worn as those 35s are and as big as these iroks are, this is almost like going from 33s to 35s or 35 to 37.
Not sure how marginal power was before though. Sounded fine when you left here FWIW
-
Do you have stock gears? When first went to 35s from 31s, I had no use of 4th gear unless on the throughway.
-
I’m running 4.56 gears in axles. AX-15. Callelle, yours is auto?
Seem to be ok idle-moderate throttle at lower speed, up to around 45 mph and no hill. 3rd gear is mandatory to go up a steep hill when not going any faster than 40-45 mph.
Foot to the floor to accelerate (slowly) up a steep hill at any speed and any gears.
Loaded 18 wheelers go up hills faster than me lol. WOT in 4th gear and unable to hold 55-60 (2,300-2,500 rpm) uphill.
No check engine light or pending codes. Surprisingly still get reasonable fuel mileage despite it see WOT regularly. Approx 250 miles to a tank with mixed of highway and city driving (factory 20 gallon tank).
I was able to hold my cruising speed at or near WOT on old 35s.
I’m fine with lacking of power if that’s what it is, but will want to fix it if this isn’t normal.
-
Can you check fuel pressure under load? Might be dumb and wrong but it’s my first though followed by dirty injectors.
Seeing fuel trim or monitoring a wide and o2 would be the real way to check.
-
Can you check fuel pressure under load? Might be dumb and wrong but it’s my first though followed by dirty injectors.
Seeing fuel trim or monitoring a wide and o2 would be the real way to check.
I might should've mentioned that injectors was fine. I tried to 'fix' it with 4 hole injectors as an upgrade (original only have 1!) before figuring out that the ECM is bad. Marc found me an ECM from a 97 XJ and that fixed it. No power gain or loss that I can notice with old ECM (before it broke) and replacement ECM or injectors.
I will need a scan tool with ability to show fuel trim. Even though usually it'll throw a code if corrections are so large.
I will need to try find my fuel pressure tester, but doubtful it's the problem. A note, my XJ is 98 and it use returnless fuel system, if that mean anything.
-
(https://www.automobile-catalog.com/wykres_power.php)
needs more R's and less brick though wind. if no codes and fuel mileage is on par, drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
-
drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
well put :)
-
hmm power curve link didnt work. but shows 4.0 like >2500
-
drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
well put :)
I am fine with that, as long as this is normal for Jeep's HO 4.0
Doesn't want to 'deal with it' if there's more to be had lol
-
I would suggest going back to 1 hole injectors, especially if they're from Raffi (k suspension). His products are chinesium junk that have a stupid failure rate.
Sent from my IN2019 using Tapatalk
-
XJ have an ongoing shimmy on highway and impending DW between 40-50 mph, DW when slowing down on highway exit ramp.
I finally took the time to inspect its steering components. Nearly all of them are bad!!! All 4 TREs (GM 1 ton), loose track bar heim at axle side, rust seized on frame side, steering box sector shaft (side to side with a clunk). Ball joints are still fine. Approximately 15,000 miles since the build, most are road miles.
I think some of it may have to do with steering stops on knuckles not perfectly matched with box? I welded a little on inner Cs to stop axle shaft yokes from touching each others.
Either way, I’ll tighten the steering box, replace all of TREs & heims.
-
if you're not horsing against the stops, that shouldn't cause issues. seems young, but definitely explains things. off-brand TREs?
-
I do not hold it at stops. I make a habit to back off a little if i touched steering stops.
Heims - Ruff Stuff.
TREs - drag link TREs are MEVOTECH Supremes, which supposed to be decent and is metal to metal. Tie rod link TREs are from Ruff Stuff.
I will be replacing them with $5 TREs. MCQUAY-NORRIS brand, don't know if they're legit, but whatever. I got a few as that brand apparently is being wholesaler closeout'd on RockAuto. I bought all of "1 ton GM TREs" they had a while ago as a trail spares lol.
-
New TREs swapped in. I have 3/4" heims on hand, but need 7/8"s. Ordered 7/8" heims from McMaster-Carr.
Gotta love McMaster-Carr's blistering fast shipping!
The list on this round of preventative maintenance keep on growing...
-All 4 TREs
-Track Bar Heims
-Steering Box Sector Shaft need adjusted
-both wheel U-Joints (Spicer 5-760X)
-
All TREs replaced & shade tree alignment done
1 track bar heim replaced. Second heim scheduled to deliver today.
Steering box adjusted
It cruise at 70 very smooth 😎
-
Great!
-
Anyone have 15x10 wheels laying around to sell? Doesn’t need to be pretty.
I can’t realistically make 15x8 wheels to work. Dropped to 8psi and shoulders still have tits on them.
-
there is a reason no one will ever have 10" wide 15" wheels
because running 10" wide wheels with a 12.50 tire is silly
-
there is a reason no one will ever have 10" wide 15" wheels
because running 10" wide wheels with a 12.50 tire is silly
my tires is 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS
Actual measurement is about 36.8" overall diameter, 14.5" cross section width, per Interco.
-
oh, your running silly tires so i guess you can run silly wheels, carry on