M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on April 07, 2021, 11:17:00 AM
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Looked at a '35 Dodge 2.5 ton yesterday. needlenose trucks have really caught my attention...
Talked the seller down to a grand, after telling him I thought 6-700 was fair. he thinks he's got 800 into it but has no time for it and knows it's coming close to scrap time. so I might be able to work him. No one else has looked at it yet.
Around the rain gutters and above the windshield there are issues with the cab skin; the crank-out windshield frame is hopeless and $$. Door jams are in bad shape all the way around. Most of the trim and small pieces including hood and side panels are there though, the grille is in great shape, the frame is excellent. The running boards will need to be rebuilt, big holes but the edges are all there. all the structure at the [wooden] floor is close to gone to the point of the cab sagging. Would need to make new structure at all the cab to floor structure tie-ins.
This is probably a bad one to be a first. And probably a bad one to try to do cheap. I did find a perfect chassis to put it on that's also too expensive and too old: '91 Chevy 4x4 3500 with a plow and 13' flatbed with lift gate. Asking $4k for it. frame looks great from limited pictures, cab corners present - might be southern originally? Haven't talked to them.
Otherwise I'd want to look for a crew cab long box to give nice long bed length.
To keep width close to original, it needs to be a SRW width front axle with dually wheels. outside of tire measurement is 63-64"
I don't have another set of 19.5 8 lug but there are several options there, but 34x9.5 on 16 could work pretty well? I bet that '91 is on 16.5 though.
Bad idea all around.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/466547327828150
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/342906413485811
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and as smike pointed out, just maaaaybe I should work on a backhoe first ::)
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Oh, and the door hinges are cracked off on one or both sides.
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Last on the road 1986
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Dont bother IMO. There's better bodies out there.
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few and far between in the 30s crowd. Found a couple dozen 40s trucks but mostly west of the Mississippi. A couple that could be with the trip if one had the time and dedication and inspected registered vehicles.
this needs to go on an Arie box truck
https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/carroll-1947-international-kb-dump-truck/7294682307.html
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I agree with Matt. That is lawn ornament status.
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Visit my cousins and drive it home lol
https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/d/colville-1935-dodge-truck-restore-or-rod/7302701486.html
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Visit my cousins and drive it home lol
https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/d/colville-1935-dodge-truck-restore-or-rod/7302701486.html
MUCH better!
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that price tag just makes it no fun. need a sub 1500$ one
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that price tag just makes it no fun. need a sub 1500$ one
Truth. But depends on objective... keep or flip?
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so its more enjoyable if you know its an upside down project from the beginning?
that makes no sense.
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Even if keeping is the objective it's SO nice to be right side up on things.
Given how hard a time I have parting with anything though, it may not matter.
That one is in eye-poppingly good shape, but either a 3+ week fly & drive roadkill, a 2 week haul, or $1500 in shipping? bah.
that bumps the OH/VA and closer price to more like 6k. and I want the thing done for 6k. The thoughts that have put the brakes on is thinking about the rotten 4x4 frame on that one smike did and not loving the idea there. if there were severe shortcuts that could be taken, one of Tom's current scrap donor trucks plus this cab could be something, and the end result might be fun enough and may be right-side-up on price, but I think would be lacking. I'd have to skip on some of the things that I want it to be able to do. I want to pull a brolite on the bed and run to Attica at very least, and be proud instead of embarrassed at shortcuts at a car show, and be warm and reliable plowing the lot and drive in the winter.
I have only looked at the snapshot of the market in the past 3-5 days, but from what I see, anything worth saving that's under $1500 is 1950ish and newer. Older than that they get too rare to be cheap AND good enough.
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so its more enjoyable if you know its an upside down project from the beginning?
that makes no sense.
Not saying to get so deep that you're upside down but good sheetmetal is worth some more budget. But I hate body work... ;D
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in my experience, its not worth the up front premium for the 10K hot rot buyer
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marks old truck in the background?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/411017846617711/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A3c47ed41-50ee-4ce5-8ddb-7598a725862e
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Yup. He long since sold on...
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https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/mansfield-1938-dodge-pickup-project/7301681391.html
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you will never find running boards, grill insert, or bedside fenders. probably much more missing, id walk away
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Already gone.
I think fabricating running boards wouldn’t be awful. They won’t be a perfect match but they’d be functional and not $500 for the pair.
Rear fenders get mismatched for that reason I’m sure. Many are missing. Sell bed and flatbed the truck.
Still thinking of trying to get the original in this post for 500. Could part it and cover that if needed but it would certainly be a hundreds of hours sort of cab. But almost all narrow nose seem to be either that, cross country, or already restored.
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or wait and have some patience for something better to come up?
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This 51 Chevy isn’t a needle nose 30s truck but it’ll be mine Sunday when I pick it up. If I’m lucky, owner will get it out of their backyard ahead of time.
It’s good enough that I’m absolutely going to evaluate brakes and bearings if the springs and mounts are and maybe drive it original until I find the right donor.
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Bottom passenger dash is the worst rot on the truck, from a drip at top of windshield.
All glass new. Windows need felts. Door latches work. Needs door cards and head liner and pass fender signal.
I agreed at asking price of 2k if they can find the transferable reg. 1900 if it’s lost.
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Most if not all the missing trim is in that cardboard box on the passenger seat
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nice work!
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I didn’t look close at the wheels. Probably 20†split rims if I had to guess?
If it rolls on original running gear that’ll be an issue.
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other than fun factor to move between bays or drive around block for engine resale, i wouldn't bother thinking the thing will be tolerable or useful with that engine, frame, suspension, tires.
35mph hay wagon and bring a pillow to sit on.
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I was expecting 45? We’ll see!
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3rd gear was exciting in the 55 on nicks street! thing was hawging! (@22mph)
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https://youtu.be/piF-pBdqNJU?t=1233
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I'd bet it has the 2-speed rear (6.13/8.10). On a good day with a good tailwind, you'll be lucky to see 45mph. I think 35mph is a reasonable expectation.
Tires will be an issue. The split rims will be fine.
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awesome!
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It is two speed rear. I assumed deep, that sure is deep.
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Good potential donor chassis. 230k 4x4 6.0 Chevy 4x4 truck. Probably needs trans.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1076276562873556/
I still like that 13’ flatbed 4x4 with plow I posted earlier, but 3rd/4th gen engine and way cheaper.... I really do want a Brolite-sized bed and dually though. Looked over its pics again and it’s bed is rotten as fuck. Likely doesn’t mean good things for inner frame and frame horns. Probably looks a lot like my plow truck. Boo
I spent a lot of time in an 87 and 91 Ford 250s. I wouldn’t mind that generation vehicle’s driving experience at all. But common engine platform sure is nice for working on things.
In the already long frame market there are a lot of really overpriced fords and a lot of diesels. I’d rather go gas for plow abuse and for sake of sitting. I did see one duramax part out that seemed interesting last night. I don’t know a thing about those though. I think it didn’t have a trans in it? Seems potentially annoying or expensive to source.
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Lb7 roller. Can’t tell if 4x4
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/682667659050130/
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It is 4x4. I see buttons on the dash.
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It is 4x4. I see buttons on the dash.
yep
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only missing a tans :o
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smike'll say too old. I say too 2 wheel drive. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/758300835059392/
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smike'll say too old. I say too 2 wheel drive. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/758300835059392/
cab swap to "fix" it.
You have Ford D60 housing on your rack, use outers from the dodge D60 (from dumpbus) to convert it to 4wd (with t-case swap of some kind).
if you do the cab swap.... soup up the 460 by to delete all of EFI with better flowing heads, intake manifold and top it off with carb, to simplify on electronics' side during the swap lol
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first id say its a ford, and i wouldnt take it if it was free.
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first id say its a ford, and i wouldnt take it if it was free.
HAHAHA
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price seems too good on this but doesn't otherwise smell scammy. that would be a sweet setup
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/491616765374310/
97 ram cummins auto, $3500.
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Cheap Cummins saw message but didn’t reply.
This guy says frame has no holes but is scaly. Would look if it were close but I bet it’s bad. Priced right
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/741378649879070/
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I’ve determined in a few days of hunting why I’m quick to buy. I don’t really like shopping around that much. I think looking for a donor truck might make be batty. The 2500/3500 longest wheelbase 4x4 is tough to find cheap. So many extended cab short bed trucks out there.
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Found a crew/long SRW 4x4 8.1/ Alison in Attica. 2006.
More than I want to spend. ASKING 4500
Looking at a 2000 club cab 454 dually 4x4 when I pick up the 51 Sunday. $2500 and intake mani coolant leak.
The scaly crew dually 4x4 454 in PA is asking 1200. 199ish
Club cab short bed 6.0 in canandaigua asking 1450. 2002? Iirc
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the no-transmission duramax guy picked up a trans. would do $3500 for a 2002 lb7, it's a crew cab long flatbed dually 3500. I get the feeling he might move a little on that price. a large part of me says I know nothing about duramax. a large part of me says a duramax chassis could make this a pretty desirable resale.
Slightly concerned about powertrain width between inner fenders on the '51.
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inner finders will need to be trimmed with any swap. but it can be done cleanly.
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leaning very heavily towards the duramax. motor has 150-160k on it, the trans he got has 200k on it. starting at 3500 with a little wiggle possible doesn't seem terrible
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/682667659050130/
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how about skip buying things and just fix this for less since you want a disel and are ok with last century running gear
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/207238497479792/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A3a92b554-30c4-4e3a-ad4f-46fa5f6f2e1d
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mostly no on that one because I want earmuffs to be optional. It's cool and cheap.
seller confirmed 4x2 but wouldn't say the year of square body, so... 1973 or newer. Id as soon run a 1950 frame and 1995 axles as I would a 1973 frame and axles. I think.
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I wouldnt buy anything with a 454. Yes, it's an awesome powerplant but not as good as something more modern.
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lol I've always loved 454 SS pickup when I was a kid. Then I stomped one at the track with my stock Integra GSR.
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lol I've always loved 454 SS pickup when I was a kid. Then I stomped one at the track with my stock Integra GSR.
Me too! I absolutely loved that. Cousin of mine had a 454SS and it was wicked awesome back in the day. He tubbed the bed and put wide ass tires. Looked like 2 feet wide each, no idea the actual size - obviously likes to go on drag strips.
A 5.3 nowadays run circles around a 454 in stock configuration.
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those tires probably added a second to his 1/4 mile haha
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lol I've always loved 454 SS pickup when I was a kid. Then I stomped one at the track with my stock Integra GSR.
Me too! I absolutely loved that. Cousin of mine had a 454SS and it was wicked awesome back in the day. He tubbed the bed and put wide ass tires. Looked like 2 feet wide each, no idea the actual size - obviously likes to go on drag strips.
A 5.3 nowadays run circles around a 454 in stock configuration.
I don't think MikeMike is looking to build a race truck lol. sound like hes into building a multipurpose truck, a shop truck, plow truck, parts getter, scrapper, (possibly a flatbed/rollback?) whatever.
and you can say same thing about a 5.3 run circles around my clacking 12v Cummins for spirited driving, but that come to a screeching stop when trucks doing truck thing.
I thought 454SS was cool when I was a kid too. but they're an embarrassment after comparing its specs to other stuff. GMC Typhoon/Syclone for example.
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my first Dually was a 454 gasser.. loved that truck, was a true "Cowboy Cadillac" full wood center console, captain chairs, mood lighting.. that truck rode smoother than my current dually.. but it could not pass a gas station!
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that's the true height of conversion van aesthetic there! boy does that bring back memories.
the do-all is the plan for sure. base intention is run around town, Brolite on the bed, plow in the winter. be extra nice if it could dump dirt, but shoveling a couple yards out of the Ram isn't bad at all.
the length of those 3+3 Chevies is what I keep thinking about. not much to be found in 185" wheelbase that isn't that old.
if I open myself up to extending a frame it totally changes what I'm shopping around. many more options in shorter trucks. many options in 4x2 trucks if I think about using a divorced 205 as part of the rear driveline.
I've got axles on the shelf, could put the pair from under the Mule under the existing frame with the flathead for a minute and think about engines.
Could just plan to fabricate a frame, or use a straight truck frame. Could get factory frame length from an Arie box van and use a 205 and solid front axle.
Too many options. not enough cheap trucks in the configurations I'm actually looking for. the LONG 4x4 exist, but are well over donor budget.
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Maybe I missed it, what is the goal of this project?
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Maybe I missed it, what is the goal of this project?
Hahahaha
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base intention is run around town, Brolite on the bed, plow in the winter. be extra nice if it could dump dirt, but shoveling a couple yards out of the Ram isn't bad at all.
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2008 6.0 with an oil pressure problem? $3k 4x4 10’ cab n chassis. Frame scaly.
Similar fears to the can’t hear it run duramax. How long run with low oil pressure and how bad hurt. It’s almost like signing up to roll new bearings in at least while changing the oil pump.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2861113130823185/
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i bet you would get a year out of it with 20-50 and lucas in it.
id still probably pass on it though.
cats might be big spendy ones though
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So what model would be 16k gvwr in a Chevy? The emblems don’t have a model, just “Chevroletâ€. The serial number tag is a little rough, hopefully not too difficult to get a good rubbing from.
Steers on it are 7.5-20, 35-36â€. Drives are 8.25-20, 37-38â€. Will be hard to get modem running gear narrow enough for my taste but I will try. And may sacrifice turning radius for it. Maybe.
First donor truck I looked at in Marion right after picking up the truck was kinda crap. Lots of frame scale and one rotten crossmember. Also 4x2, accidentally. Would be easy to put a coil spring axle under there the way the coils pockets are in the frame. Didn’t check width for spacing of those spring pockets though.
Need to pull some other dimensions off things for frame height and spacing. I love the proportions and want to stay close.
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So what model would be 16k gvwr in a Chevy? The emblems don’t have a model, just “Chevroletâ€. The serial number tag is a little rough, hopefully not too difficult to get a good rubbing from.
6000 series, past that depends on wheelbase and cab options.
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180†wb
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lots of things on google with the vin
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November 1950 build. Either a 6100 or 6500. Depends if it’s a V or a Y and they damn near stamped through the plate on that character. Tough to tell.
Idk if that makes it a 50 or 51. Sold as 51. Papers were not located.
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Wikipedia design notes tell me the cab is a 1950. I have the driver side cowl vent with flat steel actuator. Load emblem-less hood indicates 1953. I think I’m understanding that tappet cover design on engine indicates 1955(?)+ 261 cid i6, not the 216 that would have been stock until 54 (at least in the light duty trucks.
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Accidentally deleted this post, guess I'll have to start from scratch. there's no way to recover a thread.
1950 chevy 16k gvw. 180" wheelbase and 180" bed. steers, rows gears, rolls and holds air. new glass and seals. trim nearly if not completely complete. needs driver floor work, needs door hinge work, needs window felts and door seals and a driver cab-side latch strike. haven't looked at wipers. has newer heater present but no ducts. brake linkage siezed.
motor free. after some work has compression in 1-2-3- -5- . Suspect burned exhaust valves in 4 & 6. some mildly bent pushrods. Pushrod dimensions indicate motor likely a '54 car 235, but not definitive yet. I may continue to poke at that and see if it'll run. Should just list it for sale and send it. Engine work is only impeded by having a cab present, anyway. probably time to separate.
no spark yet either. Have new coil to try. has been swapped to 12v.
cab-side wiring needs to just be gutted, it's scary. so no function check on lights or fans or anything. original gauges present but very cloudy.
currently leaks from center of windshield. that leak rotted the bottom of the dash.
cab corners are bondo but look good. center trim strip on hood has rot. beauty line on cab shows rust. I'll see what gets uncovered when I take care of cab mount and driver side floor, if I can leave the cab mostly as-is for now that's my plan. if big chunks of body filler fall out of it I'll go from there. door bottoms have perforation but doesn't show from outside and isn't at all structural. it feels VERY solid.
picked up donor truck last night, it's rough but I think it's close to good.
2000 ram CCLB 24v auto 4x4
need to shift trans manually due to year mismatch. if in D, will start in 2 instead of 1.
3.55 open/open. needs front-front driveshaft ujoint, rear pinion bearings, right rear wheel seal
scary steering. box broke 2 bolts years ago and pulled the one remaining bolt through frame. strong chances that needs a better repair. probably trash track bar too. maybe also bad drag link or box. it's 2/3 turn of slop.
plow blade needs to be rebuilt. plow frame is fantastic.
truck frame has confirmed rot at the front spring hanger frame section seam. I'm sure I'll find other bad spots. hitch appears good.
water pump bad
fresh alternator
fuel leak at return line from vp44
cable-actuated CAD
$3 in bottle returns in the bed, along with a chrome stack that previous owner was running, and 16" alloys.
power steering very weak - intermittently. hydroboost brakes. that may mean no vacuum pump?
hack-fix lift pump; EFI fuel pump on the frame rail on separate switch; draw straw in the tank. out of fuel at last hash before E on gauge.
Edge programmer. when on highway duty, used to do 24-26mpg calculated.
since I'm going to want 37s or so, I wonder if I'll be wanting a gear swap.
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Accidentally deleted this post, guess I'll have to start from scratch. there's no way to recover a thread.
o snap did i just beat the IT guy!>
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smike hacked the main frame
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What size are those tires on the Ram? They look larger than stock.
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What size are those tires on the Ram? They look larger than stock.
Zeetex AT1000 285/70r17
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Accidentally deleted this post, guess I'll have to start from scratch. there's no way to recover a thread.
o snap did i just beat the IT guy!>
You sure did! I owe the winner a chicken dinner!
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if you are not set on the Dodge.. $1500 2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Long Bed
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1181168769008138/
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i think i have 6 duals with rubber on them downstairs that i have 150$ into i think they were kinda beat but all held air. there is also the 4 on the summer salt ZJ that would be available sometime in the future well within the future of this project.
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I *want* to run 19.5 on it, but not finding any right away. I do have a spare to test fit with. I think I sold the last of my Ram 17" DRW wheels right before I moved.
thinking I'll likely change to SRW fronts for winter, because I'm sure with the tucked look I want, the steering angle will be completely useless.
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I need to test fit some things on the chassis... forgot how small all 19.5 diameters are including 8r19.5. 34-35" when I'm wanting 37-38". Which will surely play hell on 3.55 gears.
If I can get some 9r16 on 16" dually wheels that may be the ticket, but odds on coming up with used tires that size are slim. not sure it will be worth the extra cost to get exactly there when at the right ride height a 245 or 265/70r19.5 would probably do. But all the 19.5s I found looking today are on the wrong coast.
And the bigger diameter I go the worse the turning radius will be. Maybe something H2 level of backspacing could do. Likely a dually wheel with a 1-2" spacer to keep the plain look.
Exact right tires seem like finishing touches as long as it's set up right to fit them later. But it sure is easier to fit other things around things that are present.
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if you are not set on the Dodge.. $1500 2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Long Bed
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1181168769008138/
That's a sweet goose hitch
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I did some measuring on each truck and without moving anything on the Ram or extending it all I get a 10’ flatbed.
Buggy needs 13’ of space and I think brolite is very similar. Could do a 3’ beaver tail behind the frame, but I think that would screw up the look a bit. I don’t think it could look right without a bit of a wheel base stretch either.
Ram gvwr 8800#, rawr 6084#
I think I need to mock some things up and think a bit.
The overpriced f550 frame is bouncing around in my mind a lot with its 4.30 gears.
The turn into my driveway with a plow on the front is, too, after testing that out even at existing wheelbase. Those gates might have to move back a bit for comfort, and turning around at the house may not be a thing. Long plow truck would definitely be long.
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I was quite surprised how much room is needed to turn the Ram around compared to the Titan.
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insane how much tighter the 4500/5500 does.
my international that was 2wd would also turn on its self more.
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6” stack sold for $50 in an hour.
Good riddance.
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Shame. That stack'd look good on your truck ;D ;D j/k
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Shame. That stack'd look good on your truck ;D ;D j/k
or on the mower lol
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Asking after a 2002 f550 4x2 frame right now. It’s priced like a frame, has a 7.3 power stroke and trans still on it. Current owner was told it ran by previous, so it’s core quality I’m sure. S130 rear with the manual diesel maybe it’s 4.44 or 4.30? Would be nice if it wasn’t 4.88.
Don’t have pictures of the front end yet. Expecting leaf spring TTB? I literally have no idea.
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I don't think TTB was in anything HD
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2002 was before they went back to radius arms though I think so it’ll be leaf spring whether beam or not. Wasn’t return to radius arm 2004-5ish?
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Leaf spring beam axle, reportedly.
I wonder if spring dims match the 95-97 Dana 60 housings I have on the shelf. And if knuckles could just swap like on my Ram between beam and 4x4 axles? Bolt patterns could get complicated to maintain. Rear is clearly 8 lug but i expect bigger than standard 250/350 metric Ford. Along with gear ratio fun.
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this is a sweet project plan with many directions
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Every time I look at the Ram it has more issues. Not unexpected to see it turn strictly into drivetrain donor.
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Leaf spring beam axle, reportedly.
I wonder if spring dims match the 95-97 Dana 60 housings I have on the shelf. And if knuckles could just swap like on my Ram between beam and 4x4 axles? Bolt patterns could get complicated to maintain. Rear is clearly 8 lug but i expect bigger than standard 250/350 metric Ford. Along with gear ratio fun.
Knuckles will swap, but it’ll be a downgrade in brake and F450/550 have wider wms-wms, so it’ll be noticeably narrower if you use 95-97 Ford D60 housing as-is. Although that may work in your favor if that will help line up with 1950 chevy 6400’s fenders. Also, 99-04 f450/550’s knuckles will bolt on 92-97 Ford D60.
I’d keep the metric bolt pattern & either find 99-04 F450/550 D60 or cut up the beam & turn it into D60. But that’s me. Lol
The plow truck I got my donor engine from, was a disaster also. I don’t think I’ll ever consider an ex-plow truck to use it’s chassis.
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Don’t know what knuckle swap you’re thinking that would downgrade anything?
Beam axle knuckles on 97 d60 housing is what I’m wondering about.
Any idea what the bolt pattern will be?
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Don’t know what knuckle swap you’re thinking that would downgrade anything?
Beam axle knuckles on 97 d60 housing is what I’m wondering about.
Any idea what the bolt pattern will be?
F450/550 run big brakes (require 19.5” wheels to clear!). 95-97 Ford brakes sucked for me. I was eating rotors like crazy until I upgraded, fwiw.
F250/350/450/550 use “same” 8x170 wheel bolt pattern unit bearings. Only main differences are in lug studs (srw vs drw) and/or mounting bolt threads (fine vs coarse).
Yes, 450/550 knuckles should bolt right on to 97 D60s housing.
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i just quoted a project out very simlar to this- 70's dodge on a 94 cummins- so looks like you get a head start. picking up 1st half Thursday.
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You’ll finish sooner, job is taking all my brain again!
Hope your 94 is cleaner than this 2k. Should have more pictures of the f550 frame soon
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i just quoted a project out very simlar to this- 70's dodge on a 94 cummins- so looks like you get a head start. picking up 1st half Thursday.
thats awesome. i'll like to follow this, as I want to fix up my truck somehow... I just don't know yet on what body to replace the shitty 2nd gen ram body with.
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im sure its a pile, was put into a ditch. motor already pulled. its a 4x4 with a trans and case thats getting pulled. he has a different 12v with built trans that was put into the 70 chassis but builder bailed on him.
changing directions and im cleaning up the mess with time and materials.
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Got spring measurement on the f550 to compare.
Thing is 24’ overall with 200” wheelbase. That might end up getting shortened a bit, idk yet. Loooong truck.
Will get the body off the ram and make the call based on frame condition once I can see it all I think. But I already know of one pin hole so I think I know the call.
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Ram frame looks usable. Lots of cleanup needed. So much cleanup.
2002 F550 spring widths are wider than the 95-97 f350 axles by about 4”
I think I’m gonna run the Ram frame and keep simple and save money even if it’s not quite a 16k gvw buggy hauler, as long as engine lays out okay. If I’m making motor mounts anyway it may change my attitude.
Engine lengths are a good match between chev and cummins but radiator to front axle is different by 12-13” so that’ll be something. That’s probably where the vans win out with the engine pushed further forward than a modern truck.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/883e8f98b2e64bc52f4f676f1ce5a838.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/c639b5c7c15354a524c2391e5ba2e0a8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/9073def4ff3b0bfb5903509223c4844c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210501/fdc3d134d2558b203e7a5345c5d06497.jpg)
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Key won’t crank.
No start when manually triggering starter. Tightened loose starter bolts
Codes for “CAN bus failure to VP44” and “companion module failure”. I’m thinking I managed to disturb power to the cummins ECU somehow.
Key off isn’t killing dash power either, it behaves like there’s a latching relay that isn’t unlatched. Key on powers up but only pulling a particular fuse powers off. ASD is triggering properly. Did ground the ECU, chassis probably not well grounded.
Want to check myself as I go and see this thing run again.
I do have docs on 24v standalone, may start from there instead of paring this down if I can’t find that fault. Should at least give me which pins to chase if nothing else.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210503/e3366aee59aae655eed8c0343ddba2f5.jpg)
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No crank was neutral safety. Case was in N but trans in 1 instead of P. Dummy.
The power back feed is coming through the fuel system relay. And the no CAN persists.
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Fuel pump relay is not being grounded by pcm. Cause unidentified. Packbrobe at pdc and apply ground: instant start and run.
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this is a sweet well thought out detailed pre-planned project. engine is too far forward in the chassis vs the chevy. I don't think there's any way around moving the engine back about a foot, or moving the axle forward just as much.
now I know why VANS.
back to thinking about that other frame if there's drivetrain moves needed anyway. Zero other advantages to it: the lug pattern on there is useless, it's specific to just f450/f550 of a pretty narrow range of years (99 to 03/04?) so no wheel other than stock 19.5, and unlikely to find used adaptors to anything else. 8x225, rather than the 10x225 of everything else heavy+modern. There are some 22.5 tires that are a very good size match (235/80r22.5 is almost the same as the 8r20 on it now), but 22.5 HD stuff is 10x285. no cheap steel take-offs sitting around from anything.
It would take as much work on the '50 frame to beef it up enough for modern power and brakes as it would to move the engine.
Shame steel is so expensive now. starting from scratch has sudden appeal.
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bummer. that extra 2 cylinders and the intercooler just doesnt help you.
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Even without cooler stack it’s an issue. Front of accessory drive lands about where the hood latch is.
If I continue on the Ram frame, I’m thinking longer control arms, move track bar and steering box forward, probably flip swaybar to behind the axle. Move coil buckets. Seems like a better end result and easier than all drivetrain mounts and having to do both driveshafts rather than just the front.
Frame horns drop quickly and will likely get in the way of adequate uptravel. Assume this will quickly escalate to rebuild of the frame from just ahead of motor mounts. Should help to work around Chevy bumper and front body mounts, and stuffing the cooler stack low and forward.
Could help with track width+steering angle too, but if I really wanted to help that I’d need to move the control arms inboard for better rear of tire clearance. Definitely staying away from leaf springs for that reason alone.
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found some decent pictures of a bare 2nd gen frame, there's a kick out/flare just ahead of the steering box that'll be in the way for both steering clearance and steering box mounting.
the motor mounts and spring buckets are right in line. I'm certain that's intentional, but at least there's that nice full coverage crossmember there to otherwise assist with that twisting moment from the engine weight.
Any time I think about building coil spring mounts, I think about the years of regret I suffered with my Dakota and not immediately going coilover.
And that makes me second guess moving the axle when the engine would be a couple tabs off the frame and fresh crossmember mounting holes in the bottom. Maybe that's not really so bad. one extra bit of driveshaft work and loss of a foot of flatbed, versus coil spring and steering box and swaybar mounts and rebuilding the front bit of frame.
pic
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/cab-swap-help-95-dodge-2500-ctd-to-96-dodge-ram-1500.1663522/post-19137521
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Chad has done two of these recently, 52 and 54. Going to take a look shortly. He did 1st gen so there will be differences but worth a firsthand look for sure.
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https://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/d/rochester-2005-international-420/7317094691.html
i assume too big and too much, but seems relatively cheap
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does seem relatively cheap but I'm certain it's an uninteresting engine and the frontend width would for sure be killer.
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Are the tires any good on the Ram?
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285/70r17 load E on steel factory wheels, matching off-brand all terrains. one each at roughly 65, 55, 20 and 10%. so one good pair and two junk. Haven't checked the wheels closely for rot behind the chrome covers. Seller had seen those wheels fail before on a friend's truck. I didn't know to be concerned about them but it makes sense.
second set of alloy 16" wheels, no tires.
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Ok, never mind
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that 4200 is even less than my 4300 was. probably has the DT360 or detuned 466 like mine at 195hp
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So very jonsing to work on this. Very very.
Need to do the loader to make room for it, and have Allroad camshaft sensor things and a Golf to make sellable first.
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Golf, Allroad, Loader ;)
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my winter driver > your winter driver ;)
unless you REALLY want to overpay?
though given fuel prices lately? worth the overpay. I'm almost considering parking the BMW early. Fuck putting $50 into a 13 gallon tank. I suppose I'll say that until I'm back in a FWD econo wagon... but at least it's a stick. I want to put the TDI into the Z4.
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this would be risky fun
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4248522228579391/
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I didn't know you could get a duramax van
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Mike wolf had one
Definitely a risky unit but could be worth the gamble. Unless someone knew something was wrong and disabled the starter to cover it up…
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there are 2 grounds on the van fender that are important.....
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bump
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13’ bed is the number. Would fit bro or big car. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/9fa3a3d5ef0fa341f7031d875e58101c.jpg)
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Or fit ramps over the cab? Like many trucks I've seen out west with RZRs.
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this frame looks pretty clean
whats the last status of your parts / plan for this?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1032262381541882/
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you could go this route :o
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1069675050855368/
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O god
Or I could, you know, lift a single finger and put a tiny bit of effort into not assembling trash. What a waste