bring the dakota back

[mr.mindless]

I should do something with my pile. what did a steering ram cost, again? I could strip some ring gears if I could steer without pissing fluid everywhere and see if the rest of everything really is junk or not.

[M4wdFab]

how bad was the ring gear chips? and what was your backlash?


put a new steering box on
put a new pump on
put a speedway 200$ cooler on it
put gears / inner pinion bearing / pinion seals into it  450$

loose the bed, roll some tube with expanded steel platform, mounted tool box / jack, and spare tire mount.  maybe loose 10" out of the rear while you are at it.


1000$ and 3 days in the shop this could be back for another 5 years of wheeling

[etk300ex]

Mine was 1ish ram, 3ish orbital, 2ish lines.  Lessons: does not work so well with TRE's, pump sucks, should of got double ended bolt on kit for 1000

[etk300ex]

1000$ and 3 days in the shop this could be back for another 5 years of wheeling

I agree

[mr.mindless]

deserves a fresh pump. that's as likely to be the leak as anything else.

It has a spin on filter and OK stacked plate cooler already, but on the radiator stack not with a dedicated fan.

gear teeth are pretty bad. it'll strip a spot if it load the area hard once or twice more. looks like the pinion was shallow on the. best pics I have without more than 2 seconds digging.

it'll still ride like SHIT. that's the main complaint (severely oversprung on both ends) - but no motivation to do anything about that without either good parts or a running working thing

[attachment deleted by admin]

[M4wdFab]

is that the a picture from front and rear, or both front?


is there preload on the case? if so move to pinion.  if not put a 0.005-0.010 shim on the OUTSIDE of the pinion race to kick it over

if the case preload is good, put 0.010 more under the inner pinion race and .020 in front of the crush sleeve, re crush it, done



dont run a pattern, it wont help you. 

[mr.mindless]

1) PS pump, DE ram

1.5) gears. 5.13/5.38

2) trans if needed. tcase mounts. legit tcase front input seal.

5) new link bars & larger heims in front. new geometry? nah. either softer/ more progressive coils, or coilovers
5) bob & link rear. coilovers, buggy leaf, or quarter elip. fuel cell

[mr.mindless]

is that the a picture from front and rear, or both front?

I think both front. look at the dates, I don't remember
No idea what preload/ backlash are like. I put fresh gear oil in them then, expecting to just run them until they fail.

[Wingman]

Drop it at M4 and pick it up all ready to wheel.  It's only money.  Oh, and time.

You've been out of the driver seat for too long.  You need to make the call to continue in this sport or bail.  Then act.

[Ryan]

I have a pair of 14" airshocks still. Could be had for not much money.

[mr.mindless]

I've wheeled more recently than Troy! c'mon.

Continuing to get my house in order while I work towards what I really want.

2 or 2.5, ryan?

[Ryan]

2.5

[M4wdFab]

i have lots of broke 2.0 coil overs

[mr.mindless]

james duff progressive coils are $160 for 3.5" or $170 for 5.5"
or dever super flex 4.5 linear rate for $140, much softer than what I have now at 190#


I have 4" skyjacker in it now. they've GOT to be 400+#

14" 2.5s should work really well in back. keep the front suspension as it is with a better spring.

seems reasonable?

could even try just removing the add-a-leaf leaves from the rear. Would lower and soften in a couple hours' effort with no significant changes.

[mr.mindless]

190# linear seems like it'd be a bottoming machine. air bumps would probably make that not suck too much. I don't think I have room for those, unless I put them forward and put the bump pads on the steering truss. That's not so hot for later use of the axle.