M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: rejeep on January 30, 2012, 04:00:50 PM
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Ford 8.8 ARB purchased today...
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4.56's gears both ends, and chromo shafts for the front?
i can quote the work if you want it done. looking for an excuse to do diff work and by the portable lift i want
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4.56's gears both ends, and chromo shafts for the front?
i can quote the work if you want it done. looking for an excuse to do diff work and by the portable lift i want
keeping the 4:10's... did the math 100 ways... doesn't pay..
I cant go up in tire size with the D30 up front anyway.. and cant upgrade the front axle to something serious without doing the rear... wouldn't want the miss matched 5 x 5 and 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern.
so I would be talking about some serious money in axles..
35's and 4:10's with a 4:1 case and i'm plenty good.
D30 is already "Build" with Moog/Timken everything, OTK 1 ton steering and Chromo shafts..
I just cant stand the rear auto locker..
doesn't fit my driving style and every time if clicks, bangs, or whatever my wife looks at me like im doing something wrong..
If you can install an ARB and set gears i'm all ears..
but I have a call into a few local "old timers"
but I will be enlisting the time and skills of M4wd for the next big pocket expense.. ::)
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built 30 with bling ball joints and chromos can take 37s with talent ;D
just costs in unit bearing wear
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just costs in unit bearing wear
endless supply of those...
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time to talk Hood Louvers....
is there a place locally to get them stamped out?
I know there are several bolt on kits, but I like the idea of getting them done directly into the hood..
My engine runs warm in the summer and I need to get some of the heat out of there..
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ordered today...
(http://www.tntcustoms.com/images/products/display/61307291.jpg)
TnT custom full Tube fender and rear corner guard..
will be an interesting test fitting stage as well as decision on paint options...
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and...
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51KwlRyXGKL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
Prothane 1" body mounts..
tired of the old 2" body lift I installed when I was 16 and just wanted bigger tires..
no need for such a high body lift anymore.. made up for it with suspension and now larger wheel openings.
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Body mounts and ARB arrived...
still waiting on body protection...
issue is now with paint...
thinking about options and how a fresh coat will look on 24 year old patina..
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here is an old picture...
issue is the sliders might have to be trimmed.. should I remove and paint?
accent on tube fenders or body color?
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/IMG_3573.jpg)
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IMO, fenders will look better if matched to body color. The flare part should be painted an easily repairable color, like flat or gloss spray-bomb black.
Won't the sliders be tied into the fenders?
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I like the industrial black fender look meself
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my sliders are AtoZ.. I don’t know how well the front or the rear fenders will incorporate with the sliders...
So I guess that answers my question.. sliders have to come off so I can line everything up.. will make painting easier..
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more and more I think about it...
between
fenders, corners, hood, tailgate, sliders and windshield frame (all the easily or required removed parts) Im practically down to the complete vehicle...
i really hope I'm not in one of my spiral out of control projects again...
sounds kind of familiar to where I was with the Rover last year about this time...
This might be a job for a combined effort of Arie taking some personal days and M4WD and Fab working around the clock..
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few people actually know what im capable of.... ;D
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arrived today
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120208-00093.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120208-00096.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120208-00097.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120208-00095.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120208-00094.jpg)
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Smike..
if I were to drop off the YJ this weekend or early next week...
I would want the body mounts done while also removing the rear axle..
How long does the jeep have to tie up a bay?
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For the 8.8 Re-Fit
(http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/images/P/ubolt_main-200.jpg)
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why does the rear axle need to come out?
i could have the body mounts done in a night.
pleanty of room in shop right now.
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im sending it away for the ARB to be done...
favors are owed that are being cashed in on..
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gotcha, i miss read. so you need body mounts done, axle pulled, jeep stored till ARB is in and axle is back, and then install axle with now mounts. no problem.
does it need to be stored inside?
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either way not an issue. a D35 could be under in in 2 min to roll around
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ideally..
ARB should be a quick turnaround...
but since I’m the king of storage… what will it take to keep it indoors..
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we talking like 3-4 days or like two weeks. quick turn around is a rather relative term when dealing vendors outside of M4wd.
either way i think we can work something out.
when can i get the jeep and where does the axle need to go?
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I am thinking I can bring the jeep down early next week...
Axle is being shipped out
prob a week turnaround time...
I don’t need to be a prima dona.. the Jeep can go out if needed..
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seems like it would make sense just to pull the axle at carter street if your shipping it and getting it shipped back.... but whatever you want to do.
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agreed...
may not drop off for another week or so...
some carefully placed jack stands and strap I don’t even need to take it off the trailer..
just wanted to get the ball rolling.. but not out of control...
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happy to work off my tab, pulling an axle without good air is annoying. just drop the jeep off ill take care of it.
grab a pallet if you can ill strap the axle down i can load it to a truck or whatever
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like Visa...
its everywhere I want to be!!!
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/air%20cool/th_bb1117.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/air%20cool/?action=view¤t=bb1117.jpg)
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Visa is a good name for that compressor!!
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the little one is really the bees knees...
this one is just slightly used already...
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That is only 2" of wheel well gap! Topsy turvy is this hogs new name!
so I was thinking..
would I be better off ditching the body lift all together...
the new fenders will give me greater wheel openings and I’ve decided to not go larger than 35"s on this truck with current axles and suspension...
thoughts?
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Ditch it!
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Ditch it!
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Only reason not to ditch... If you are installing a tummy tuck. It may make the fitment easier.
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I am ordering a set of poly body mounts...
since they are both coming from amazon I can return them even after a potential test fit...
im siding with the ditch it
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I am ordering a set of poly body mounts...
no stock height body mount kit comes with all the parts...
sleeve, washer, bolts, etc... >:(
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cant believe it...
I just grabbed a set of stock rubber mounts that come with the mushroom washer and sleeve...
still have to grab a box of bolts if I go this way..
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m4wd is a fully stocked hardware shop with way better locking hardware than the zink under sized junk any body kit comes with :)
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so is the warehouse.... ;)
just irks me when they dont include hardware... like they expect you to re use any of the old shit anyway.
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Well I didnt kill myself getting the jeep off the trailer
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rochester-20120213-00111.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rochester-20120213-00112.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rochester-20120213-00113.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rochester-20120213-00114.jpg)
Rear axle out and off to SVE for ARB install..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/Rochester-20120213-00115.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/Rochester-20120213-00116.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/Rochester-20120213-00120.jpg)
Rear inner fenders and flares removed for TnT corner install...
kinda surprised at the lack of rust and rot.. a little scale and flake but not bad for close to a 25 year old vehicle..
everything unbolted even.. no cutting or cursing..
not going to go crazy with it.. just some sanding and POR for good measure..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120213-00117.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120213-00118.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120213-00119.jpg)
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you just did like 7 years of chip work right there, not bad.
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yeah all from 12:30-2:30
and that after busting a Hyd line on the forklift and band aiding it together... because dont you know.. I dont have a floor jack up there and my engine hoist is on perm loan...
I got some M4wd speed and efficency when I need it..
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I think I might have a couple hours in my hands tomorrow...
Might start clearing off the front fenders and possibly removal...
Made some mistakes with the rover painting before fitting...
not going to go through that again here..
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stripped and got the front fenders off this morning...
awesome to work on something thats not rotted and everything just unbolts...
took about 90 min to remove all the acc. from the inner fenders and unbold the wings...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00130.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00124.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00123.jpg)
did some test fitting of the new front fenders and we have an issue..
the A to Z fab sliders extend way to far.. going to have to cut them down..
I want to see if I can use the bottom portion of the slider and just cut the horizontal section with a grinder or sawzall while still on the vehicle.. I have a feeling I will just be cutting off the complete excess flush with the body tub.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00126.jpg)(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00129.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00128.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120215-00127.jpg)
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i would cut them to fit that angle to look matched.
looks like a job for the plasma
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is the plasma 110 and portable?
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I kinda think the saw and grinder would be cleaner... do you agree?
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I'm with smike. I don't think his is multi voltage though. but it's the best cutting tool ever!
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220 and needs good air
i dont have a suicide cord to run it 110, it is Dual Voltage though.
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im going to see how one cuts with a sawzall...
might go through a couple blades and wheels..
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standard dewalt cutoff will zip through both sides i just dont like the mess, noise, and cost of consumables when i dont have to. i am spoiled with my band saw and plazma now :)
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Put the sawzall down! Lol
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topsy turvy is getting cut up with the sawzall!!!
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ohh the call to work....
have no idea when I may see this thing next :'(
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going to try and get some work done on this over the weekend..
I want to mock up and get the metal into paint asap...
just incase smike was right I pulled the trigger on a new tool that might move the process along..
(http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/399644_lg.jpg)
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Rywan has one of those, it's sweet!
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axle is in the warehouse...
got to figure out when ill be able to throw it under the Jeep..
Band saw came in... opening is a bit smaller than I thought...
might be able to get creative with how I angle it..
either way sliders will get cut next week.. front fenders need to get mocked up so I can get them into paint..
found these the other day....
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/bolt-hinge-to-hood-fender-to-cawl-fender-to-grille-4004455.html (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/bolt-hinge-to-hood-fender-to-cawl-fender-to-grille-4004455.html)
you can really build a CJ/YJ from a catalog if you had the $$$$$$$$$$$
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Down to the bolts... Wow.
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just from experience...
the taper on the end of those bolts help to thread into the nutserts...
Im sure i could prob use bulk hardware...
but the old ones have been removed and installed so many times with ease... why fuck with it...
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Definitely. The tapered tip is nice, I wish it was more common. The captive washers are always good too.
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damn...
im even good at price shopping bolts..
http://www.drivetrainsuperstore.com/product/4004455/1976-1995-Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-Jeep-CJ-BOLT-HINGE-TO-HOOD-CJ-YJ-WRANGLER-4004455/ (http://www.drivetrainsuperstore.com/product/4004455/1976-1995-Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-Jeep-CJ-BOLT-HINGE-TO-HOOD-CJ-YJ-WRANGLER-4004455/)
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ARB installed but not functional as of now.. still need to plumb the lines and run the switch.. will prob wait till its home in the driveway and its a nice day to work outside...
I eliminated the claws of doom... no more getting hung up on stumps and rocks...
still need to trim them down..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/th_Rochester-20120229-00178.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00178.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/th_Rochester-20120229-00179.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Rear%20ARB/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00179.jpg)
Cut the front portion of the slider to mock up the fender...
went easy with the 4.5" cut-off.. going to go in and clean it up with the saw and wheel.. going to have to remove the horizontal portion as well and make it flush with the tub.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00181.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00181.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00180.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00180.jpg)
Passenger fender mocked up..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00182.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00182.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00183.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00183.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00186.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00186.jpg)
and the issue with the bottom portion..
looks like the 2" body lift is deff going away and stock rubber mounts will be put back into place... wheel openings are THAT much bigger..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00184.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00184.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120229-00185.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120229-00185.jpg)
Dropped off front fenders to get painted this week..
going to be able to work on the rears later this week and hopefully swap out painted front fenders for bare rears with the painter..
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thought you were gona cut it to fit the fender?
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you mean like an angled cut?
too much for me.. didn't really have the patience to measure and cut and measure again...
flush with the tub is prob the best and easiest way..
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Smike.. if I take a few more afternoons I might be able to get this thing rolling to the point where I can drop it off for the body mounts...
thats assuming I get the metal back from paint..
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just give me a heads up, shop time is getting booked out about 2weeks it seems.
yj tonight
rubicon tomorrow
Friday personal junk,
not sure about saturday, sunday im free
Monday have a JK coming in
Thursday i have an XJ coming in
man i need a secretary and a calendar!
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man i need a secretary and a calendar!
I bet egg roll would be down!
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spent some more time today with the YJ under the knife... or cut off wheel....
Front section of the sliders cut nice... flush with the body tub...
T square and some blue tape made for easy work..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00192.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00192.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00193.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00193.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00194.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00194.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00195.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00195.jpg)
went to go mock up the rears and there was a bit of an issue...
the rear portion of the AtoZ sliders extend way beyond where the TnT corners mount.
A few marks with a tire pencil and some surgical cutting with the grinder and I had a rough outline.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00197.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00197.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00196.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00196.jpg)
a few trail and error fitments and I finally had it snugged up where it needs to be..
and yes.. nicked the body in a few places, but nothing more than a scratch... little seam sealer and POR and good as new..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00199.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00199.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00198.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00198.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00200.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00200.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/th_Rochester-20120302-00201.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/?action=view¤t=Rochester-20120302-00201.jpg)
In hindsight im glad i didnt take the sliders off. These actually are a fit as you go kind of product..
assuming I didnt have the AtoZ sliders and perhaps the TnT brand or none it would have been an easier job..
Passenger side is all done.. Ready to drill the holes for the mounting hardware and drop off for paint next week.
Still have to work on the driver side... Monday perhaps..
I had to remove the tailgate for this which might add another step to the process of getting the Jeep back together..
Something I've been meaning to do for a while, but havent pulled the trigger...
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Tailgates should drop. Doooo it.
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on it already....
need to find 1 or 2 parts that are not available aftermarket...
Im sure smike could make.. but I dont think anybody has a CJ anymore with a functional tailgate..
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i think i have a couple tail gates under my deck, no hardware from the tub though. i could grab something from J&J also, usually a couple there
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i just looked at the tailgate I have and its bare, but in nice shape...
I would need the factory hardware that bolts to the tub and the brackets that bolt to the tailgate itself..
Seal, cables. latch and associated hardware are already ordered..
If you do fine your self @ J&J can you grab me everything...? Ill blast and clean or use as a template..
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just got the call..
front fenders are done and painted..
I was up at the warehouse yesterday and looking at this thing...
I think I may have decided to go back to a single battery while keeping the dual battery tray.
I think with the decreased inner fender space it might be wise to mount the compressor on the battery tray..
Still undecided.. it might be able to fit under the battery tray, but then it opens itself up to the elements...
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(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20OBA/OBA4.jpg)
here is a good shot from the old thread when I finished the install.
The battery tray is HUGE.. would make a nice flat platform to mount the compressor.
I think the winch/compressor was the reason why I opted for more juice..
I also feel like it had something to do with the FI system… but I have since found the REAL cause of the problem..
Once I get the new fenders mounted I will get a better idea of how much room I have under there to mount the compressor..
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does this guy need some M4 time sooner or later?
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later.....
body mounts for certain...
I don’t work as fast as M4wd, especially when relying on outside vendors for paint, gear setup, and did I mention paint..
plus I’ve been busy as hell at work...
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baptized in the sweet waters of PPG base/clear
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120306-00209.jpg)
will make the rest of the Jeep look like shit unless I act... ::)
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I call the towel on the left for the next pool party!!!!
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lipstick on a pig!!!!
have to work on mounting the fender acc. and hood alignment...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120307-00212.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120307-00211.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120307-00213.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120307-00210.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/Rochester-20120307-00214.jpg)
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Looks sharp.
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like them . i should of had mine painted....
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Cant find anybody that will stamp my original hood locally...
thoughts on other options....
(http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/119099/119099-lg.jpg)
or
(http://www.genright.com/images/products/LVRs11_lg.jpg)
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No love for either...
Upgrade radiator and see how much the more open fenders help...
Swap to a tightly shrouded electric fan...
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Ya
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ick
whats the issue?
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No love for either...
agreed...
crawling speed is ok... but at hwy speed the needle creeps up a bit...
winch and brick like areodynamics prob create a low pressue area and cuts down cooling..
might skip this and see what other options I can do..
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What is creep up? Do you hit 230-240?
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(http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/74.png)
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waste of money, never helped any of my trucks.
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used it in my old bronco with great results went from over heating to just over normal temp. Guess it has mixed results:-)
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What is creep up? Do you hit 230-240?
once its running again I will see...
but year right around there IIRC...
(http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/74.png)
Ive used it, worked, and sell it.. so its a whatever kinda thing..
but i think a proper cooling system doesnt need it..
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Rears are bolted on...
still need to cut the holes for the taillights and wire them up...
Rear fender liners need to be bolted in as well..
engine compartment acc. are still loose...
may need to look into other applications for better fitting coolant overflow and washer fluid res.
My dual battery tray will not fit... only the TnT unit fits these tube fenders... alas they just whacked me for another $120
Still only going to run 1 battery, but a stock YJ battery tray will require modification and wont solve where to mount the compressor..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00237.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00238.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00239.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00240.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00241.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120319-00242.jpg)
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time to lose some lift or get some bigger meats :)
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got to loose 2" from the body and get some spacers for the rear...
Now that I have a flare that covers the tire you can notice the track difference between the 30 and 8.8
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4.5" holes saw worked nicely for the 4" LED brake lights...
installed, wired is another issue..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120328-00271.jpg)
Coolant overflow, Evap Canister, and ICM tucked in nicely behind the fender..
used Nutserts in the firewall for the ICM and Evap bracket
yes, the washer fluid is missing and still under advisement as where to mount... I figured not essential for truck operation at this point.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120328-00270.jpg)
Dual battery tray installed, battery and compressor mounted, OBA manifold mounted to inner fender.. all hoses fit nicely, wires obviously need to be trimmed to fit..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/TnT%20Armor/IMG-20120328-00269.jpg)
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(some of this may sound wordy and redundant.. however I cross posted on another forum and of course gave props to Mike for the awesome work done.)
Going today to pick the Jeep up from a friends shop..
M4WD&Fabrication was nice enough to do some of the misc welding and body lift removal this weekend...
Mike is the driver/builder of the 571 RC race buggy.. more than competent to do my dirty work..
15 year old body pucks, sold originally by JC Whitney were removed.. and replaced by good old factory rubber mounts.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/yj.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/YJ1.jpg)
Light tabs and winch hook catch welded on.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/IMAG0946.jpg)
some issues that arise with 16 years of Jeep modifications.. biggest issues being with the modifications made in the last 16 days.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/yj2.jpg)
All resulting in a much more proportional YJ...
better pics to follow once I pick it up..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/yj3.jpg)
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nice jeep. love the top.
really like the disengage / engage setup on the superwinch. much nicer than the cam levers on most other types.
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looks less Topsy turvey
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Looks great.
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nice jeep. love the top.
really like the disengage / engage setup on the superwinch. much nicer than the cam levers on most other types.
I sell them... discounted..
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Mike did a sweet job rebuilding the rear body mounts...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/IMG-20120402-00283.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/IMG-20120402-00282.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/IMG-20120402-00281.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20Body%20Drop/IMG-20120402-00280.jpg)
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yeah that looks way better with out the body lift!
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ill admit i am not use to working on things you cant slam jack handles and wrenches in to rock rashed paint lol.
i tried not to melt anything and keep your interior smelling as it should, but that was A LOT of plasma torching all that shit out haha.
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my favorite one was the mount right in front of the rear pass tire. after the bolt head snapped off, and the tub was lifted off the frame it was necessary to take my biggest pipe wrench and 3' bar on the poly body mount to separate it however from the tub, i was really confused why it was so happy there. ;D
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you took it from its home!!
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Awesome work and an awesome YJ!
Jealous too! After Mike did your body mounts, he said he'll never do it again! Aww shucks!!
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that sucks..
who am I going to sell my 1" poly spacer pucks to ;D
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but in all honesty.. if they were that "bad" on a clean YJ I can only imagine how they would be on a upstate jeep..
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its just a poor design, made for easy manufacture. CJs with thrubolts are way better!
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update..
some wire cleanup yesterday waiting for people to pull out fo Carter..
(Pauls Jeep was deal... needed a jump...
there are some seriousl thigns wrong there... exhaust hitting the frame and other randon things..)
I think Im bringing the Jeep home today so I can finish with the button up work..
Just ordered
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51P%2BTVMiGvL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
So I can plumb the ARB into the Air system...
Need to order wheel spacers for the rear....
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FML.. went to start on the air system and i didnt have any teflon tape. :o
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That's pretty important.
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got the manifold installed last night..
pressure reg and ARB switch...
need to run air line and wires
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/YJ%20OBA/Brighton-20120423-00393.jpg)
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m4 suggest you put those junk clamps back on the shelf at nuWay, and get some Gator clamps that M4 stocks 8)
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/355.html
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=gator%20clamp&dds=1
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they are the shit!
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picture please...
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check the manufacture link, i get them from summit in 2 days.
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Had a Jeep nostalgia afternoon...
reminiscent of 1999...
dropped on windshield frame for paint today...
forgot how fun it is to remove the windshield hinges... (nutserts broke off many years ago)
found where some more rust/rot has been hiding..
prob caught it in enough time to wheel down and paint.. metal is nice and solid.. just crusty...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/IMG-20120424-00394.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120424-00396.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120424-00397.jpg)
in sticking with the theme of the afternoon I mocked up the PIAA lights I was gifted 18 months ago...
havent thrown lights on the jeep since the late 90's as well...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120424-00395.jpg)
All while in my college sweatshirt and listening to phish...
everything was there except the :-X
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Hahaha nice. Thought you sounded relaxed when we talked after work :)
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something I was thinking about yesterday....
Might be looking into different seat options...
I love my 97-02 Sahara seats.. not only are they comfortable, but I think they compliment the color scheme of the Jeep. I still have my old 88 Sahara seats, but they are well worn and not up to the task...
Thinking as a father, I might also want to reintroduce a back seat into the jeep... and a TJ back seat will not fit in a YJ..
what do people think about color options at this point?
Solid Spice is hard to clean and doesn’t really match the "Almond" interior...
Black gets hot in the sun, about the only time I drive the jeep..
I am also looking for a center console so seat color would inevitably decide the color of the console..
back on seats...
what style?
street comfort or safety first...
harness for the front?
going home at lunch to get my Quadratec bible..
thoughts?
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I have no intelligent thoughts beyond flipping through the QT bible...
harnesses in front would depend on the seat and whether they work. Need the rear cross bar to attach them to which can limit rear seat access. Safe and comfortable are FAR from exclusive...
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So after much debate....(and I'm still not sold)
I think the mastercraft are prob the better option, but the corbeau offer a more practical seat in terms of performance, fit, function and color...
http://www.corbeau.com/products/reclining_seats/moab/#
Can get these in spice Neoprene with a matching back seat... Close enough to the original almond dash and roll bar pad.
Have the ability to upgrade to some better seat belts as well...
Looking into the 5th slot option.
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Before you buy give PRP a call, they can do full custom seats, or standard. I would have bought them for my buggy if I knew about them before I bought the Corbeaus.
http://www.prpseats.com/Default.aspx
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prepping the cowl for paint I got a little over zealous and wanted to try out my new tool...
no more contorting like Gumby....
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120430-00404.jpg)
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everybody lurves riv-nuts!
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Sanded, de glossed, masked, and primed the cowl area today... had some nice weather that cooperated with me..
Seats removed and new risers installed..
Mastercraft test seat came, still waiting on the Corbeau...
Black in the YJ isnt horrible and the seat is deff comfortable..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120502-00408.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120502-00409.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120502-00412.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120502-00410.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120502-00411.jpg)
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I dont think im going to win any prizes for best in show...
but the paint didnt come out half bad.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120507-00468.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120507-00469.jpg)
have to wait about a week before I can hit it with rubbing compound and make it shine.... 8)
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nice job
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I was home this past weekend at my parents house..
I was going through some things (my room is a time capsule from the late 90’s to early 2000’s)
And found some baby pictures of my Wrangler…
Since there is no lift and just lights I assume these were taken around 1997-1998
Bottom "winter"' pic might be as old as 1999 since there is a shackle lift there
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Baby%20Pics/AriesJeep3.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Baby%20Pics/AriesJeep1.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Baby%20Pics/AriesJeep2.jpg)
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i like the new color better,should paint the tub
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cool winter pic!
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its the same color.. just 24 years newer...
tub really doesnt need to be painted because of the full armor on back..
tailgate is fresh paint as well as you will shortly see..
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Mastercraft seats + stock sliders + Stock risers = goofy sitting postion....
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of all freaking things....
what I thought was a low gas issue ends up is a NO START...
my luck this week I assume...
went to start the jeep and it kicks over, but wont stay running..
almost like its backfiring...
nothing has been touched during all this essentially cosmetic work..
Howell isnt throwing any codes.. and there is gas in the tank.. I can see a nice spray from the injectors...
Smike.. It ran at your shop right... doesnt idle well before its warm, but it started and would run???
ran for me just fine getting off the trailer and into my garage...
Just damn dont get it..
any ideas?
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Welcome to my life
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well that coupled with a douchebag officer yesterday and a surprise trip to NJ tomorrow and 3 months of work on the heep.....
not to mention that i cant even work on it tonight since the garage is right bellow Michaels room...
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ok.. problem potentially solved...
Sprayed the TB down with some Carb cleaner in order to clean the soot from the small fire that was in the barrels..
tried one more time before the baby got into a deep sleep and it fired right up and ran quite well with a smooth idle...
then died...
after a repeat start attempt it stumbled and failed just as before..
Fuel issue
traced the fuel lines back and discovered that when the body was dropped the fuel lines are nice and sandwiched between the tank and the frame....
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huge relief.
come look at Swamp Thing and find something as simple?? :)
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I have plenty of 258 starters....
These motors are simple.... Even when you throw fancy electronics at it....
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what idiot did that when they took the body lift out lol 8)
i honestly dont remember if i pushed it into the shop, and you picked it up when i wasnt there. glad its easy fix.
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Well haven't done it yet... But I'm 99.9% positive that's the issue....
Might even be able to only loosen 1 mount bold to wiggle it into the groove.
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almost done....
all buttoned up and partially back together...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00476.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00477.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00478.jpg)
New Mastercraft seats and Tuffy console installed...
Rear bench on order...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00479.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00480.jpg)
Drop down tailgate all buttoned up and completed.. thanks to Erik for the brackets I couldnt find anywhere...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00481.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00482.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00483.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00484.jpg)
conversion went fairly easy...
only problem is the angle of the tire carrier.. I think i vaguely recall landing hard on the rear bumper a couple years ago.. I think the frame tweek'd upward a bit in the process.. so the swing away comes into contact with the tailgate.. probably happened with the old tailgate but it was so "well used" I may not have noticed it..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120513-00485.jpg)
Might be looking into fixing this in the near future..
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Tailgate doesn't look like it seats quite as tightly as before, too. May lend itself to the problem...
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The black and tan looks great.
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Tailgate doesn't look like it seats quite as tightly as before, too. May lend itself to the problem...
thats true... but a few shims where the latches catch will solve that... but thats not the issue... its 100% that the bumper is not at a true 90 deg to the body...
The black and tan looks great.
who doesnt love Black and Tan
(http://thecolumbuswench.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/brutul-black-tan-tool-3.jpg?w=316&h=328)
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Mmmmm
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Best I could do with dark and darker. Actually very very good....
The porter is heavier than the bock, interestingly. I expected otherwise and the first halfs mixed.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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(http://thecolumbuswench.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/brutul-black-tan-tool-3.jpg?w=316&h=328)
Forgive my ignorance, but what is the metal turtle thing for? Decoration or does it have a function?
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To my knowledge it is to defuse the stream of liquid to make it easier to layer. A spoon could also be used. Atleast that's the thought with other drink making
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Yup. Otherwise they tend mix as you pour. I don't have a turtle, just a bent spoon.
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I had a short stop situation today on the way to work in the YJ...
kind of an oxymoron since the short stop took a long time to happen...
I know this is probably a fleeting thought.. but it pops in my head ever so often...
what have people done to increase the stopping power of their rigs..
I know I have the early style booster and MC... I run good brakes all the time and have disks in the rear...am I missing anything simple?
complicated?
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What's the limit? Pedal hit the floor or run out of leg strength/pushin power?
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Seat adapter installed and modified further...
I know have a centered seat.... might take the whole assembly out again and weld the seat frame to the riser... wallowed out one of the counting holes something good...
Cleaned up the engine bay a bit with the addition of a 6 circuit fuse block.. battery terminals are now free and clear..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120609-00523.jpg)
PIAA lights installed on front bumper.. all wired and nice and clean looking..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120609-00524.jpg)
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nice, those light tabs work out ok?
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did you ever upgrade your prop valve to a disc/disc when you swapped
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i think i did... it was so long ago..
might look into that, but even that wont give me the stopping power I use to on a daily basis.. I think thats %50 of the problem...
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Haha stopping power.
That reminds me, just before I got to the Midtown, there was a van waiting to make a left on green and two busses stacked up on the shoulder at a bus stop. I was in the left lane. I start to move right to go around the van and the lead bus throwsonhissignalandGOES.
I smoked 'em but stopped 25-0 in about one bus length. Not a close call but a sweet panic stop. Light turned red and second bus pulled up next to me. Driver and I shrug at each other.
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Been playing around with some engine tuning options to see how I can get off the crack (100 octane gas)
I contacted Howell yesterday to see if the pinging could be a result of fuel delivery. Seems I may be on to something however small..
My motor is prob @ 9.8:1 compression.. well within the specs of pump gas.. but I have always pinged even with 93..
my real solution was moving to race fuel (100 octane) and some playing with the timing.. Jeep runs like a bat out of hell, but @ 7.99 a gallon and only 2 fueling station in the Greater Rochester area I’m kind of soured on the idea.
I was told to look for certain specs on the scanner while driving and although I’m within specs, I’m right on the fence of being out..
Going to contact Howell today and see if burning a new prom wouldn’t be worth a shot before I start the machine work on my new head..
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yeah that's definitely sounds like a pita
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too bad you dont have Chevy TBI on this thing
hook up the laptop and take some data driving
send the ECM to Mike U to modify and burn you a custom tune
Done
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It's only at 9.8:1? I thought it was actually high compression. I wouldn't expect issues until around 11:1...
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I do have a Chevy TBI on this thing...
that comp number was only an estimation from other builds I have seen…
I’m going to get with Howell first since they usually do right by me… but I would love to do the laptop thing if possible..
It’s an OBDI connector…
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o, i thought you had the pos howell injection system.
Gif has the ALDL cable we might be able to borrow.
i have a computer that the labor is done to it would just need a new flash
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it is the Howell... but the Howell is basically a middle man taking all the S10 parts and putting it together for lazy people with more money than time.
The CPU is a 89 Chevy S10 4.3L TB and all connectors are GM
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I dont even mind buying a cable...
would be sweet to be able to tune this thing...
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do you have a knock sensor and where is it mounted?
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I don’t think there is a knock sensor in the Howell system... I might be wrong
I just talked to them and they thing they can bump my air to fuel ratio and get some good response..
I talked to him for about 20 min with all my data from this morning’s drive.. just need to pull the PROM ID number for him so he has something as a baseline..
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well jeep guru told me 258 stock is 9.2 : 1 compression ration...
I am prob pushing 10 : 1 if not more...
so fuel delivery might not be a 100% fix...
thank god i know where a virgin head is...
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time for an LS motor yet?
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That car's no virgin, she's been around the block!
Next week I hope. I should get a valve cover gasket for you too. Saint Michael has a nice smoky show of oil burning on the manifold when he idles.
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New chip being burned and mailed out this week...
Red anodized aluminum throttle body spacer installed.....
I didn't mount the supplied sticker so I guess that makes it a sleeper?
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new chip installed and running a bit better in all gears..
idle has seemed to smooth out at cold start and WAY WAY more power in 1-4th over 3K RPM..
just from that it seems that it WAS running lean... my temps are a little lower than they were previously..
almsot done with my tank of 100... will fill up with 93 and be able to test my detonation issue next week I hope..
Rear seat installed as well.. fits nicely in the stock mounting locations...
have to re check my storage boxes and possibly buy new ones if they dont fit...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120630-00063.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120630-00064.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/New%20Acc/Brighton-20120630-00065.jpg)
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little update on the engine tuning...
Ran a tank of 93 octane (well 16 gallons of 93 and the remainder of the 100)
No ping
Today 50 miles into my full tank of 93 I had some ping issues once the temp got to ~205 deg.. It was also HOT as anything here today and I was purposly trying to lug the engine to see if it would ping..
I threw a bottle of octane boost in the tank and will see where that lands me..
I have two avenues to explore..
1. get it on a dyno and have a local shop sit with a laptop and really tune the engine.. the ping might be entirely related to a fuel delivery issue or lack there of..
2. with the EPROM I have in there now I can prob get away with swapping a virgin head on the motor and reduce the compression a bit.. (I would gain .015" back)
Knowing that I can run a normal day on pump gas (even with octane boost) is great.. I can always fuel up with 100 before a hot week or Aug wheeling trip (CoolRide) Its not my DD by any means and it really only sees local driving.
Funny thing is I have heard form several people locally that their normal DD cars are pinging when filled up with 87, but stopping with 89..
I think there might be a bad supply of fuel currently.....
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maybe the 10-15% ethanol?
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Stock tune, Dakota would always ping on 87 except from Mobile. 89 needed from other vendors. Similar thing?
Could take a degree or two out of the distrib too?
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I want to get it on a tuner and see...
tired of trial and error.. if its tunable let somebody tell me..
if its not, off with its head this fall..
-
can you list specs of the system again, with symptoms, complaints, and wishes, i will pass on and get a quote for some outsource work though M4 i have a guy that is the TBI man
-
Jeep 258
Isky 260 super cam
.015" taken off the block
.015" taken off the head
Howell TBI system (gm obd1)
Engine pings on anything less than 100 octane
New EPROM was burned increasing air fuel ratio, ping was reduced, but not eliminated.
I want to have the motor tuned and see if the fuel delivery system is causing the ping ( lean condition) or its too high a compression engine..
Either way the tuning will benefit the situation if I end up swapping heads. Gaining the .015 back should drop the compression..
-
for the sake of argument...
what are the thoughts here on an Atlas Tcase?
looking into different creepy options...
-
for you perfect, for anyone else useless as all hell.
-
If I hadn't picked up the Rubicon, I would have swapped in an Atlas or Stak. Crawler gear for wreck wheeling is nearly the holy grail!
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for you perfect, for anyone else useless as all hell.
please explain
-
expensive
bolt in
weak
you can say you have an atlas though!
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you are the second person to tell me its weak...
It was suggested to me to go with a T18 and keep the 4:1 NP231...
I dont think weak is perfect for anybody.. but I will give you the other 2.. I do like turn key, easy things..
-
well there is a lot of speculation i don't really care to read up on pirate about-
they had oiling issues, and supposed fixed- so careful about what gen you buy. Seems like Racers still cant make them last- which would make me be cautioned on a street rig at highway speeds.
-
exactly what was said to me.....
I agree... if this was a dedicated trail rig it would be another story..
but then again if it was a dedicated trail rig I wouldnt have this problem because I would have deeper axle gears...
I need to spend some time with the jeep in 4th and see if I can live without an overdrive... I have a feeling its going to be a new tranny
-
Swapping in a Rubicon case would be a better option.
NV4500 or SM420 would be a better choice if you are swapping transmissions. You get a good low first and overdrive with the 4500.
-
what’s inherently the difference between the rubi case and a tera low unit? same ratio right?
T18 keeps it all relatively simple.. plus I have a source..
-
Ratio is the same, but the Rubi case has larger internals, its a 241 not a 231.
-
got it.. but same mounting pattern...
so in the grand scheme of life it can be an upgrade for later while addressing a different issue now..
-
I think the only thing the Rubi case would give you is a slightly beefier chain and gears, it is the same ratio as you have. T18 sounds like a good way if it has lower gears then your current trans.
-
would jump from 63:1 to 104:1
-
wait... 63:1 isn't low enough for you? :o
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Thats what I thought....
but im telling you there was more that 1 time this weekend where sombody asked
"not to be a dick, but you are in 4 low"
lot of clutch slip and throttle was used where it shouldnt have been needed..
just not creepy enough...
-
way too high :)
-
I guess. Going from the stock TJ 34:1 to the Rubicon 65:1 was a real boost for me! Not often now do I get into a spot where lower gearing is needed. Can't imagine 100:1.
-
If I was in a comp crawl then I can see 100:1 but for trail riding now I'm in 3rd- 4th 4low and I'm about right pace. If I get to a good section I want to take my time I'm in 2nd first is almost to slow
-
what do rubi's have for first gear? Tom was much slower than I at big dogs and I'm like 90:1. I could use lower occasionally, especially down hill.
-
all what I always thought..
but I’m telling you.. I needed more slow for what I was doing..
100:1 is a lot.. but the lesser of 2 evils.. If I can’t get the gearing I desire from a Tcase I need a trans...
granny gear trucks are the only option..
Funny, because when I had to move Pauls CJ this winter in storage I forgot how much I loved a deep 1st gear.. (had one in a previous CJ)
it’s all about the overdrive at this point....
only way out there possibility is that the case isn’t 4:1....
but that would have taken some serious "Fuck you" ability by the PO of the Tcase to swap the planetary back into the Tera housing...
plus I’m fairly certain I checked it before I installed it..
-
what do rubi's have for first gear? Tom was much slower than I at big dogs and I'm like 90:1. I could use lower occasionally, especially down hill.
NP241OR t-case = 4:1
NVG3550 trans = 4.01:1
D44 axles = 4.11:1
Must be a Jeep thing :P
-
65:1
AX15 is 3.83 (where im at..) 62:1
need more slow.. less go
-
that's really weird cause I'm 3.95, 5, 4.10, must be the 38's. More like 75:1 I guess...
-
that's really weird cause I'm 3.95, 5, 4.10, must be the 38's. More like 75:1 I guess...
your at 80:1
I dont think tire size effects the calculation.. just the real world application..
-
i'm
6.32
2
3.55
only 44
i want lower
6.32 is pretty cool though :-D
-
Put that thing on jack stands and verify your t-case gearing?
-
I typo'd. 3.95, 4.7, 4.10
-
The only thing I can see is tire size messing with things.
-
toms tires to 38's is huge diff lol
-
thats it, i'm going to 33s!
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2 pi r man! its real!
-
I don’t think tire size effects the calculation.. just the real world application..
2 pi r man! its real!
of course it’s real... just doesn’t affect the gear calculation.. just its application
i.e. a 400 HP motor still produces 400 HP if it’s in a car or a tank… the application will produce different results.
-
ya why would we want real world app when we are trying to drag trucks over rocks slower haha
my CJ5 was 6.32 2 4.88 with propane and the idle set at like 300rpm loaded it was pretty nice crawl lol
-
nice one..
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html (http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html)
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it's silly to ignore ground speed when talking gearing as it relates to wanting to go slower. gears get you there but it's ground speed at idle that you really actually care about and judge by.
-
Arie- You have 35's right? Our jeeps should be pretty close. for comparison you can look at my video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cA1tEZoOQRo&feature=relmfu at about :45 I take my foot completely off the gas and just let it idle in 1st gear low range.
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what do rubi's have for first gear? Tom was much slower than I at big dogs and I'm like 90:1. I could use lower occasionally, especially down hill.
NP241OR t-case = 4:1
NSG370 trans = 4.46:1
D44 axles = 4.11:1
crawl ratio of 73.32= awesome down hill descent and awful wheel spin in mud!
Must be a Jeep thing :P
[/quotewhat do rubi's have for first gear? Tom was much slower than I at big dogs and I'm like 90:1. I could use lower occasionally, especially down hill.
NP241OR t-case = 4:1
NVG3550 trans = 4.01:1
D44 axles = 4.11:1
Must be a Jeep thing :P
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agree..
there is also an aspect of leverage....
I just don’t really plan on changing tire size so I wasn’t trying to complicate the issue.
-
Just got off the phone with AA...
seems they have addressed some of the early issues with the 4 speed case...
my rep was very honest about their shortcomings in the early stages...
Either way.. have some thinking to do....
also got a quote from Novak on a turnkey T18....
there is a significant price difference, both with advantage and drawbacks...
-
agree..
there is also an aspect of leverage....
I just don’t really plan on changing tire size so I wasn’t trying to complicate the issue.
right, but only Aaron of those making comparisons is on 35s, Tom is on 33.5s I think, Eric is on what used to be 38s... Apples to apples means you gotta go all the way to the end, not stop before the last step.
-
Hahaha 37.5s
-
i was only paying attention to aaron ;D
-
Arron is the only one on 35s so that the one to watch.
-
what is the axle gearing? Or do you not want to touch the axle so you can still cruise down the street at like 65?
-
65... thats in 4th... i can go back to the future with this heep...
axles are @ 4:10... i'm not opposed to swapping either, but more bang for the buck working with the drivetrain..
-
New Belly skid on the way... my stock one was so beat that I’m sure my driveline was not aligned properly..
(http://www.onboardair.com/images/product%20photos/YJ-BSP-AT-1.jpg)
Rear shock and new belly skid should be in place this week..
at that point I can sit and nail down what direction I’m taking this winter...
-
I think you should get out and wheel some more this year!
-
i think the rover should make it out to jareds this weekend!
-
prob going to Western Mass in the fall for a weekend...
thats why I couldnt pull the trigger on the drivetrain yet...
I have the UK car show sunday if no lake...
-
this kid getting 1tons or something? ahaha
-
no...
keeping it streetable and semi normal still..
if I ever wanted anything more it would be buggy time....
I thought about Ryan’s for 15 min...
just incredibly not the right time in my life to be dumping that much cash on something so not needed
-
skid arrived.. think is beefy as hell....
no provision for torque arm as in the stock picture... unsure if it’s a problem or not
-
new skid in place, new downpipe on the motor....
drove to work today....
Skid isnt as flush with the frame as I would like it... Might need some nutserts redone :o
Jeeps going up to Carter today to get swapped out for the Rover..... :'(
-
common problem, easy fix.
i weld in 1/2 top locks, you will never have a problem again. shitty design from factory
-
when you slow down...
might have some other, bigger stuff by then as well....
-
ill be dead when i slow down haha
-
couldnt agree more.....
just debating pulling the trigger on a front axle...
-
for you perfect, for anyone else useless as all hell.
M4....
great fabrication and foresight....
-
bret showed up at the shop last night, he is in the market for a 231 with 4:1, i mentioned i had a guy on the fence.
what are you looking for that thing?
-
Yeah Bret texted me yesterday, said he was gonna be around last night and Sat night. Figures!
-
he needed a chevy old school dist for his new project.
-
depends..
I cant order the Atlas till mid october.. (and depends on how long they take to ship)
pending my time frame or M4 getting the old one out is easy..
-
just pulled the trigger.. they are 8 weeks out.. as long as this guy can wait or I can get the jeep on the trailer w/o A tcase in storage Im game
-
need a number to pass along to see if he can swing it first
-
Atlas ~2 Weeks out...
would like to book some time over at M4... im sure I only need 2.5 hours of your time and that would include the nutsert fix...
Does M4 off enclosed trailer drop if the weather goes south between now and then?
-
No salt for my trailer, but I'm sure we can figure out something. Have two buggies to build...
-
pulled this guy out of moth balls yesterday...
forget how much I love driving it...
Scottys did a fair job on the oil pan.. started leaking from the rear... going back on wednesday for them to do it again..
Once I can confirm no leaks I want to start thinking about an engine/oil pan skid....
one that bolts to crossmember and comes forward... any thoughts Smike?
-
all the new oil pan gaskets are stupid large. you have to take 3M spray adhesive and glue the gasket to the pan before putting it on..
i screwed around with 3 gaskets and two new pans on mark ross tj before making it work.
-
as for skids, its only metal
-
all the new oil pan gaskets are stupid large. you have to take 3M spray adhesive and glue the gasket to the pan before putting it on..
i screwed around with 3 gaskets and two new pans on mark ross tj before making it work.
THIS is why I didnt do it myself.. ;D
-
and that is why it initially costs 3X to do it wrong 2twice before its right at a monkey shop :)
-
the guys are good there... but skimming time on doing the oil pan right is an art only Jeep people know..
the inspection cover wont allow for a strait up and and down of the pan on install..
needs to go in on an angle..
all FSM call for separation of tranny and engine to ensure a good fit by all of even the dumbest techs.
-
control mod on the electric fan bit the big one today...
didn’t overheat, but coolant wasn’t happy..
ordered a few fans and an aluminum radiator from Amazon…
going to try and get this sucker down a few degrees
found some good reviews on these guys...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051GSDKC/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item
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WOW..
flex a lite is sending a new control mod to me free of charge...
still might swap out the rad... but no hurry assuming the mod fixes things
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New Rad is in...
most wrenching I have done in my new garage to date...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000136_zps325f77eb.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000136_zps325f77eb.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000135_zps7ff76436.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000135_zps7ff76436.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000134_zps1254c268.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Alum%20Rad/IMG_00000134_zps1254c268.jpg.html)
-
fancy. bet she cools like a boss now.
-
after about 3 weeks and 4 failed engine skid plate designs I am ready to admit a M4 custom job is the way to go....
all the prefab ones were either too big, too small, to 91-06 4.0L or just plain stupid...
thoughts?
-
Engine skid and trailer fab this week?
I remember you saying one that you were good at fixing the belly skid nuts....
I would like to see if the engine skid could be a modular component of the belly skid...
I can drop both off at the same time....
-
sure, post up links or picks of what you have and what you want.
whats the trailer fab?
wednesday drop is good
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I want to get the submersible LED lights from hanging off the fenders and a 4" round LED in its place..
I keep trashing lights and its pointless to think I wont trash another pair...
I use my fenders as steps, work platform and garage door feelers ::)
I was thinking a light housing just as tough as the fender and a recessed 4" LED...
as far as the YJ...
I have a Kilby flat tummy skid with attachment points (2 threaded bolt holes) for an engine skid they never developed....
I have always likes the simple 9th degree skid: attaches to the engine block and transmission lower bolts..
they no longer make for the 4.0L and as you know the 258 has a different sump position so the other guys 4.0L skid doesn't work either..
(http://www.nakedjeep.com/Products/OilSkid/Media/njOilSkid01.jpg)
not opposed to a more mad max style either.. attaching from the belly skid and going as for forward as possible without sacrificing ground clearance or suspension flex. But I think one would need to be more removable for easy access to repair or weight savings when just driving on the road.
(http://ok4wd.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/j/k/jk_oil_pan_1.jpg)
i guess we will see wednesday... could go either way.. depends on what your up to...
I have a trail cover for the jeep if it has to sit outside...
-
its only metal.
plenty of enclosed trailer space at M4.
-
im not crazy about bolting a skid to an engine block, that sounds like asking for things to break. The TJ's i have done, tie into the chassis side of the motor mounts... we can figure out something that removes with 4 or 6 bolts you can slam the truck on with no worries
-
yeah I always wondered about that...
a good strike and the block could have some issues...
Motor mounts, or frame in that area sound good to me...
still driving around in this stupid JK.. (more thoughts on that jeep later) so I might drop YJ off and trailer later...
-
thoughts on moving your exhaust inbetween oil pan / trans to help out?
got 3 body mounts rubber exploded ill fix and a couple other things.
what your A piller tied to the frame with a peice of tube and diamond welded to frame?
-
you’re the Dr.
the only reason I haven’t done anything with the exhaust is it’s still the stock downpipe and easily replaced.... but I’m open to ideas..
for some reason those body mounts never want to stay whole.. I can order ones ASAP…
frame tie in probably isn’t a bad idea… body lift is removed so I don’t see there being any big body movements in the future…
there are also (2) 1†holes on the drive side frame where I cheated years ago when the nutsert spun…
-
ill take a look tonight.
-
Decided to move exhaust. It was just killing a slick install. Rather do the extra work and have it stronger and flatter with better clearance. Exhaust cut out of way and mounting cross member bent up with tabs welded on. Will be 6 bolts to pull skid. 1.75 tube skined with 3/16". Should be shrong.
-
Any pics?
-
we have available in 2" Diameter
18†24†36†sections
90 and 45 deg elbows…
Lmk soon so I can get it by 2pm
-
1 piece 18" is all Ill need
Thanks
-
2" OD right?
-
yes, thats what i measured
-
if you have mandrel bent 90s, send two over, otherwize i can use the "kinked" ones i took out easy.
-
Matt and I were looking this thing over its pretty neat and has just about everything done to it for a sweet trail street machine.
Nice jeep. Matt loves to cowel dent that matches his YJ lol
-
That cowl dent save me from tipping on my side.
..
Paint didn't even flinch so I decided to leave it.
.
-
yes, thats what i measured
so the ID would be closer to 1 7/8 th
silly how they sell this shit...
-
i believe most exhaust is .083 wall so ya, 1 7/8" ID would make sense
-
just checked the 5 million im sitting on top of and we have 2 90 deg mandrel and 24" sections of 2" OD...
love when I overcomplicate....
ill have it at south for you...
-
cool!
-
exhaust all at south.. plus some of your bearngs and seal...
-
time for trailer this weekend or no?
I also have the rest of the axle seals..
-
sure.
Can this heat go away?
when Matt left at 11 last night it finally cooled down. i decided to hog on this in the good temperatures to 2am haha. skid is done just need to bolt back up and mark for an oil drain hole, and full weld the 4 nutserts i put in the bases of your motor mounts. looking good
-
Did you do your typical legs up to the motor mount for the skid?
I was going to do that for mine, but the driver's side leg was going to have to do some funky stuff to avoid the exhaust, driveshaft, and upper link/mount
-
i think my exahust got tweaked...
-
i think im going to drop off shortly... have to go to West Herr @ 10ish...
might leave now
-
there is a ton of room under this thing to get to, and the motor is lifted up an 1" also. i ran a piece of tube across under the pan with two bends to go down around the pan. should be cozy to the pinion housing at full driver bump, but fine. No links or exhaust in the way. exhaust will be tucked up between the oil pan and flywheel dust shield.
-
Trailer dropped.. Box of parts in landing gear of white trailer.....
West hen construction sucks associated.. they are using Inn parking lot as home base....
Srt and trailer driving skills must not come hand in hand.. impressed some yellow shirts.
-
What are they doing on W Hen? I haven't been down since it started.
Sofa King tired of construction. My house, work, kims house, apparently M4, between any of the above....
Tapatalking in traffic
-
its weird, they have shut down north bound the last three mornings, but its clear and everything gone when i go home.
think the are just doing shity repairs.
-
hmm thought i took a pic of the skid, meh. all i got.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Looks like nice piece of pipe there.
I think the exhaust tuck might also fix the cat rattle on the belly skid if not addressed already.
-
body mounts on way down to south....
-
ohh yeah.. cursed at my landing gear for the last time...
have this coming in from Dayton...
http://www.curtmfg.com/part/28570
(https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/28570/images/28570_1024x768_a.jpg)
this one from Buffalo...
http://www.curtmfg.com/part/28305
(https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/28305/images/28305_1024x768_a.jpg)
2,000lb jack is plenty for my trailer, no? I mean it’s just for the tongue weight right? The axles hold the lions share if there is a Jeep on it..
-
Ya. You only need one though ;D
-
ya should be fine. those things seem to all suck. love whats on goose trailes. the big trailer even has a gear reduction one.
-
my HF unit is working just fine
-
well duh one or the other...
rather go with the braket one like I have currently.
-
M4 is the shit...
Would fully back him in any automotive business endeavor
-
we will get it!
fixed this little issue yesterday. was sucking my thumb to the manifold in two places. found howell gasket has 2 cap heads right in the edge of a TBI gaskety surface. sucked the gasket in. (red spacer exact print of GM TBI, used for air cleaner height help)
[attachment deleted by admin]
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TBI guru #1, Bret from Semper FI racing stopped over and agreed the leaky aftermarket injector has to go. the left side pod is just dumping fuel like crazy idle to WOT.
i swapped in some 350 injectors but they are just way too much fuel for this girl.
-
got a NEW STANDARD unit coming this morning..
can get another, but won’t be till the night truck..
unbelievable... not dealer or even our stores carries a NEW GM unit..
I guess 88-95 is obsolete in the auto parts world.. If I was doing inventory I would disagree and have at least 1 set in the Main DC
TB gasket easy.. can get as many of those as needed..
TB rebuild kit.. just as difficult as the injectors..
can always go Amazon prime..
-
glad were sorting out the FI gremlins after all...
cant believe things like this just happen on a moment’s notice... truck was running awesome for the past few weeks since tube up.. and I logged several hundred miles..
-
this weekend, mechanical wise the list got knocked out pretty good.
6 new cross member nutserts welded in, replaced G8 hardware
exhaust rerouted between pan and inspection cover to help tummy height
o2 bung welded up
crossmember clearanced for CAT (still pretty tight)
Mid exhaust hanger to trans mount added
front oil pan skid fabbed and installed
A pillers tied to frame with plate/tube/rubber isolation
TBI spacer installed and sealed up vac leaks
added a light throttle return spring.
-
would have taken me 3 months @ 45 min intervals sporadically through the week
-
got a couple of new healthy TBI gaskets as well...
-
will the new injectors come with new orings? 3 of yours were torn, i used the ones from the POD i had, but it would be nice to put new ones in. not leaking now, but new is nice.
-
should.. Ill check
-
injectors on way down to south...
1 new standard
1 reman
couldnt pull another "new" one by noon...
if you think it makes a difference to replace both I can get..
-
Motor specs...
Block and Head milled each .015
Bored 30 over
Isky 262 HYD Supercam
(I can get full cam specs if needed)
-
(1) realized .188" i lifted the TBI with spacer to fix vac leaks caused your mechanical linkage contraption to bottom out ever so slightly and peg the IACV trying to get below where it was stuck at 900-1100rpm idle. adjustments and fixed
(2) 350 injectors removed, new 4.3 injectors / gaskets installed- spray is good- all is good.
(3) from cold start, laptop through ALDL shows it could not go into closed loop with current 160 stat, and settings on efan controller. we tweaked up the efan controler so it kicks on and off when the motor is 185-190. (temp the ECM sees, not the gage on your dash)
(4) all sensor feed backs look clean- other than O2. should be .75ish volts steady at 14.6:1 O2 reading noise from 0v t .4v entire time. unplug goes to 0.4V. Good ground to sensor, wire harness appears ok. 0.4volts measured on ECM pin between ground. need to check if that is typical. Suspect bad O2 even though it looks brand new.
-
new o2 on way down...
im betting same.. i dont nderstand everything you said... but i think ive been here before...
-
just out of curiosity.. did you reset the CPU? I thought that needed to be done to wipe the codes and or memory…
again.. Im and Carb and points guy...
-
poor fueling leaky injectors not good for any system -fixed
HUGE vac leaks and unmetered air not good for any system- fixed
ECM has no feed back from 02 not good for any system in closed loop.
Hope we dont have a computer or harness issue, but regardless ECM needs 02 feed back
TBI's dont really matter with "codes" they are more like indicators. Reading real time with the lap top makes the problem obvious.
-
Once we get all the sensors functioning in the system- we can road test or even have you take it back for a little bit to get a feel. If its still no good in performance id like to get Mike Universal out here to start messing with timing and fuel maps- no sense in that until the system is happy.
-
and i really like to get the coolaid smelling fuel out of this thing to start with a base line on pump gas
-
could upgrade o2 also
Q6. How do I wire up a 3 wire 02 to replace my 1 wire 02.
A6. Using a 3 wire for a 95 S10 4.3L TBI GM part number 19178959(I now use Walker AFS-74 because GM raised their price over $20), wire the dark colored wire usually purple to the computer and the other wires to a ground and 12v ignition on HOT. A relay and a 10 amp fuse would be nice too. Also on the wiring connector C is the one for the computer and A and B are for the 12v and ground. I now carry this O2 sensor in my ebay store to help you get the AC Delco version as cheaply as possible as I really have had too many issues with the Bosch units sold in most auto parts stores.
go delco!
-
I can send one of those down as well...
-
you know way more about this than me...
and I like the smell of race gas... just dont like the price...
-
i like to keep it simple. back to basics, to many things thrown at this poor little jeep, all it wants to do is rock crawl and mall crawl!
-
I don’t go to the mall....
work and dinner yes... rock and trail a plus...
ok so no 3 wire until base is achieved..
-
(https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/28570/images/28570_1024x768_a.jpg)
sent down the drop foot one.... less moving parts to wear out and fail.. might be overkill...
but when those things pivot it’s always a recipe for disaster...
-
Bad O2
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/ALDL_CO2_zpsab151232.png) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/ALDL_CO2_zpsab151232.png.html)
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Good O2
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/CO2_GOOD_zpsefdb795d.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/CO2_GOOD_zpsefdb795d.jpg.html)
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Cant get my dam cable to work. Got some noise but then took a step back.
-
Runs and drives pretty good, still has a wandering idle
-
Could that be the cam?
-
i dont think so, you can watch the IACV go in and out for no reason. if you unplug the iacv it steads out. so somthing in the EMS is not happy
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I'm assuming it's running as good if not better than before... perhaps a new computer?
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today one last cold start, and id be happy with it. Working on trailer tonight, then you should be pretty set.
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Got a reman standard ecm in buffalo..
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Still had a lopping idle st cold start. Smart people at work say its because of cam. Trailer all set.
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thats what ive been fighting with since day one...
just for the record.. it was NOT the cam I requested..
the machine shop built race motors... its kinda all he knew..
Jeep is going to SVE this fall/winter for motor work...
Cam, new unshaved head from eagle (thanks Mike)
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also let it go on the record... I can’t thank you enough for all the time effort and energy you put into troubleshooting this...
I really couldn’t never have done it..
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well, its not really the cams fault its the incorrect fuel map that the iacv is fighting before closed loop. too much air for the fuel being put in off a dumb table
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trailer has been mad maxed with light guards, new LEDs, and trailer jack!
after it close loops she crawls pretty sweet in 4 low now at 600rpm!
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I always fought that rough idle before it warmed up...
I don’t think I was able to maintain a good low idle...
this will greatly help when I swap the cam out with a better lower torque curve.
the guy in there now is way too high.. that’s why it rips so well on the road.
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I need a mad max trailer when backing up hill in carter st. warehouse... always seem to miss judge the opening..
winching orphaned jeeps out of fields has also taken its toll on the poor lights...
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M4 work is Sucken Fick....
you even sweept the shop for me...
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Smike wont brag so I will...
Trailer needed some work..
I hate the landing jacks that fold and always break...
the lights have also had a few run ins with the warehouse door and my passenger tire...
problem solved..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/Trailer/IMG_00000329_zps83251ef8.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/Trailer/IMG_00000329_zps83251ef8.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/Trailer/IMG_00000328_zps3fbbdda6.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/Trailer/IMG_00000328_zps3fbbdda6.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/Trailer/IMG_00000326_zps459a3401.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/Trailer/IMG_00000326_zps459a3401.jpg.html)
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front cage tie in...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Cage%20tie%20in/IMG_00000331_zps3cfca963.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Cage%20tie%20in/IMG_00000331_zps3cfca963.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Cage%20tie%20in/IMG_00000330_zps3587f8d9.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Cage%20tie%20in/IMG_00000330_zps3587f8d9.jpg.html)
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Some pics of the skid in place..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000339_zps03e48ee2.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000339_zps03e48ee2.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000338_zpsf878bf2e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000338_zpsf878bf2e.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000337_zps6a794fc1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000337_zps6a794fc1.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000335_zps6669464c.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000335_zps6669464c.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000334_zps668494d1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000334_zps668494d1.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000332_zps56a9b4b7.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Engine%20Skid/IMG_00000332_zps56a9b4b7.jpg.html)
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I like those light guards a lot. nice skid too.
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any chance brake wire was touched?
got en error code from the brake control...
have to check monday or this weekend...
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hmmm, i only checked the lights worked on my ZJ which doesnt have a brake controller. i dont think i was near the brake wiring at all and wouldn't imagine the wires are anywhere near where i was welding- let me know what you find.
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I like those light guards a lot. nice skid too.
i was just going to run a piece of 1.25 tube from the fender to the frame, but after Matt broke the band saw blade and Arie confirmed backing up and driving over were both failure modes- out came iron work with bar.
The skid turned out pretty good. should be pretty bom proof. i would suggest if you ever need to pull, only pull the skid, or only pull the cross member. installing both at once takes a trans jack and some HD wiggling.
Cage tie in should stiffen up the tub mounts where OE mounts were getting nuked, but the rubber pad should kill any vibes / rattels.
All else looks in good working order on the jeep, everything else pretty tight and lubed good.
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yeah I got a red dot on the control...
unsure
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brake control question....
I have a delay unit.. not inertia...
when I push down on the brake there is a red dot..
CURT manual says thats what should be without a trailer hookup.. as it currently is.. can somebody confirm..
need to grab trailer tomorrow and double check
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its always a ground issue with a trailer...
what are the odds.... both brake ground wires torn out of there eyelet crimps...
who knows might have been driving around with only one brake for god knows how long.
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It's always the ground on a trailer!
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Jeep is running like a raped ape with 100 octane and smikes fixes last year..
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need to run some ATF and Techron in this guy...
noisy lifter starting to bother me.... I think its lazy
still running like a champ.. just sounds like a sewing machine....
Smike, any chance there could be a pinhole exhaust leak from the front pipe we did last year?
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no chance with a bench welded exhaust
please do not run ATF through that motor
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explain... people swear by it
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I have never heard of running atf , what is it supposed to do?
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my educated guess is ATF has a high level of detergents
you cant clean a motor back in to spec
its a 258, change the oil with some 10/30 and turn the radio up
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1 qt in the motor oil.. run for 15 min and oil change...
the relative thinness of the fluid will help pump a lazy lifter back up....
theory
my educated guess is ATF has a high level of detergents
you cant clean a motor back in to spec
this too....
with all my vac leaks, timing issues, 100 octane fuel there could be some significant build up around the valves already... could be causing a sticky valve or lifter..
I actually went to advance today... we don't carry techron, advance had buy 1 get 1 for a dollar...
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Old Jeep thing? The ATF does contain more detergents and in theory will clean the sludge out. Haven't heard of it being used on anything newer than 1970...
One quart ATF and the rest regular motor oil.
I wouldn't do it with anything that I own currently.
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258 is a 1964 technology engine....
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I dunno.. going to run a bottle of techron in the reminder of my tank..
I might get ballsy after that
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I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt anything if run for such a short period. Start the process with a warm engine and go for it.
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i have a 4.2 at the shop now to replace it for sale :)
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I'd do it on something new to me and suspected of sludge, or something that I know I've gone to a 5 year old change cycle on and was trying to rescue. Definitely not on a motor that was something I cared about. It's a last ditch to desludge.
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this motor is the devil I know...
its staying put..
if it wasn't for the CJ6 it would have had the new cam and head I have sitting all brandy new..
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There's a bottom end from under that head still under the hood too. Little hot tank action and it's nicely seasoned too...
And smike's new collection. And the other '84 4.2 I have complete.
They're growing on trees!
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this motor is perfect for a street application...
want to swap it in the eagle?
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If it ends up sitting around at some point I'd consider it but I think more exotic and economical options are my plan
Tapatalking in traffic
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spent too much time and money here to make it a boat anchor...
going to do some old skool mechanic shit on this lump....
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this is going down tomorrow AM @ scottys
success will results in driving around, failure will result in otter lodge
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oh boy
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I was assured everything will be fine... as im sure it will
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tick has potentially been identified as loose manifold bolts… ???
carbon build up around 6th cyl and loose bolts…
no chance to run with the rain today..
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quick spin at lunch reveals that tight manifold bolts make ticks go bye bye..
amazing how it ran on 5 cyl....
runs and idles better on 6 ;D
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almost 2 years since my last post...
almost 2 years since its last car wash..
This thing is back in my cross hairs... stay tuned ::)
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Oh yea?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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looked good in the parking lot today
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should I even try this or is it all hopes and dreams?
Was thinking about scanning in the build sheet, cam specs, pictures and video..
AMC and Eagle forums? Jeepforum?
Dropped off my extra head.... moving in the right direction..
1985 258 4.2L Engine
Rebuilt in 2008 by T.W. Machine
Approx. miles on motor 5-7K (generous estimation)
Installed in a Jeep Wrangler with Howell F.I and Motorcraft ignition.
Head and Deck milled .015
Isky 262-HYD supercam installed
All new Sealed Power bearings and lifters, rings
ARP hardware
Balanced and blueprinted
Melling oil pump
Westside Performance Valve cover.
High Amp alternator
etc..
Engine runs incredibly well for street and highway use.
I can easily pull 75 MPH all day in 5th gear with 35†tires. (4.10 axle ratio)
In fact it has too much top end for my application. I am now looking for a more low end prominent motor. Why you might ask... Pure and simple... Mistakes happen.
The wrong cam was installed in the engine when being built and it wasn’t until a few thousand miles later it was discovered. I got lazy, ran what I had and was happy until today. I want something different.
So before I go tearing into a fantastic motor that I spent thousands of dollars building, I wanted to see if there was any interest as is.. This would be an IDEAL motor for an AMC car, Eagle, or Jeep for that matter that saw more street use.
I am looking for $3000 as a drop in Engine (minus Throttle body)
$2500 as a long block
This isn’t a tired old lump, this is just what I would need out of it to justify not tearing into it…
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Doesn't hurt to try but I bet you'll still have it when the ad expires.
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1 cruddy eagle 258 head dropped off yesterday..
making cam decisions this week
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something hot and nasty!!
oh wait, already have that.
something low end and nasty!!
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was very surprised when I called the machine shop today to follow up..
Head appears to be all done and clean..
pressure tested and only .004" taken off to make it strait.. valves done and waiting on springs..
guess I have to get the show on the road here..
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Smikes a machine..
Jeep back at my house, Cooling system burped, cam run in....
temp gauge inoperable, whatever for now...
Motor still "hunts" for idle..
Started square one with Howell instruction (I mean i installed one recently that works just jiffy)
Engine starts but runs poorly at idle or dies.
Check: System voltage at ECM fuse block. Must be within .5V of battery voltage while running. Possibly poor connection through Jeep firewall to Jeep fuse block, or inadequate wiring to ECM fuse block. Temporarily run bypass 14 gage wire from battery to ECM fuse block to see if that improves running. If so, supply ECM fuses power from battery through an ignition-controlled
relay.
I cleaned up some scotch locks and ran a dedicated power to ECU fuse block... still hunts...
tomorrows trouble shoot before calling Howell...
Check: If you are having problems with decel off-idle stall and idle drop or low rolling
idle, refer to Idle Air Adjustment Instructions.
Idle Air Adjustment Instructions
Before beginning adjustment, grind the throttle stop screw plug, flat and drill into the
plug to allow a T-20 Torx driver to access the screw.
1. Jumper A and B terminal of the ALDL connector.
2. Turn ignition key on-engine off.
3. Disconnect 4 - pin idle air control connector from the TBI unit.
4. Remove jumper from ALDL connector.
5. Start engine.
6. While idling, adjust throttle stop screw to increase base idle rpm
as desired.
7. Turn engine off.
8. Reconnect idle air control connector.
9. This will complete the adjustment.
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Thought just occurred to me that I mounted the ICM (problem part on CJ6) with nutserts on the firewall..
Might throw a dedicated ground on that first...
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I've decided emotional attachments to vehicles is just f'n stupid...
normally its easy to throw the PO under the bus... but when you owned, learned, and butchered everything yourself over the years its kinda hard to do that... ::)
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hahaha
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Amen. Reasons to miss the Dakota just a little less
Tapatalking in traffic
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My first jeep deserves more love than its gotten lately...
I think this jeep will be parked in the garage this winter.
Throwing no codes and simple Howell troubleshooting got me nowhere.
Started under the dash cleaning some wires up...
The rats nest the radio was is hanging by the speaker wires..
Power window wiring ( for doors that never go back on) removed..
Purposefully leaving jeep outside in driveway to poke me to get Howell under control
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New ECU from work today and found my old prom from 2008..
Howell thinks its a fuel delivery issue.. too much/too little...
hose clamps on the feed/return line to test.
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the TBI guru will be at the Attica event.... i have a programable ECM on hand also.
does that thing have a ALDL port still?
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Hose clamp on return line got me a steady idle....
Have connected, no codes.. needs a different prom.
Have a OE sending unit coming Wednesday for coolant temp.
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hose clamp on return line?
that should not affect engine unless it caused a fire from leaking lol
those 14psi check balls are way over engineered to not care. i can have the guy call you that designed it :) he is a hoot
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troy@ Howell said I am either not getting enough fuel or getting too much.. thats why it was hunting and eventually stalling out..
i tried supply line first, nada...
threw it on the return line, leveled right out..
calling back today for a new prom
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"bypass fuel filter and see what's going on"
volume issue... something isn't right..
I pulled these old pictures up when I built my in tank pump setup..
only other viable thing I can think of is that the pump is sucking the bottom of the tank and reducing volume, not pressure.. wondering if I have been having this issue since I landed on the tank skid oh so many years ago.. :-X
grabbing a hi volume filter and some bypass stuff today to poke around.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/Fuel%20Pump/IMG_3564.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/Fuel%20Pump/IMG_3564.jpg.html)
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troy@ Howell said I am either not getting enough fuel or getting too much.. thats why it was hunting and eventually stalling out..
i tried supply line first, nada...
threw it on the return line, leveled right out..
threw what?
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Hose clamp
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im still confused, was it leaking at the supply or return on the TBI? more less or changed hose clamps should effect anything unless it was leaking?
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Sorry I guess I wasn't clear...
Hose clamp restricting supply or return line to adjust fuel going in or ou of TBI.
With a fully restricted return line (hose clamp cinched down on it) I got a smooth running motor.
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all these fuel issues on 2 of your jeeps and you still don't have a 20$ HF fuel pressure gage to tap in? get some data to make some educated next steps?
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got a $15 amazon FP gauge... 8)
pressure is fine.. volume @ idle seems to be the issue..
Troy said bypass the filter and remove the clamp.. (easiest test fix)
if that doesn't cure, will have to run a volume test on the pump before dropping tank and investigating further.
I got to have some amount of trust in them.. they sell hundreds of kits to bigger idiots than me and they run successfully..
unlike the 6, I have stock location fuel lines, exhaust, a poly tank with a drop in pump already..
the only issue is the amount of fuel getting to the TB.. there has to be a restriction somewhere.
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quick check when i got home..
same high flow WIX on truck as in my hand..
noticed a possible restriction in the supply hose coming from sending unit..
i think there is a groove on the top of the poly tanks where the fuel hose is suppose to curl... mine isn't in there
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I wanted to get a better view of what was going on back there..
Removed the back few body bolts and lifted the body off the frame a bit with the floor jack..
jiggled the fuel hose around some and started engine.. (body lifted)
slowly releasing the restriction on the return.. had a few stall outs, wiggled fuel line some more in the back..
finally got it to idle relatively smoothly..
didn't have a barb to bypass fuel line and there isn't enough slack from the sending unit..
left for a few hours and came back later this evening, fired right up and idled steady for a few min before hunting again. ???
going to bypass the filter as instructed today and see what happens.. not looking to drop the tank without more testing, but Im going to need more than 12" of hose from sending unit... probably another previous owner mistake ;D
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need to teach you how to split the dictionary sometime.....
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does that mean I cant spell?
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Filter bypassed, status quo...
Fuel pressure @ TB 13psi
Back to Howell in AM
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It's also becoming a project.
Elimination of all scotch locks and hack wiring.
Rebuilding the main gauge cluster and dash controls.
Pressure of it being in the driveway is forcing me to keep it moveable.
Everything will function or i'm burning it...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/return%20to%20glory/IMG_4041_zps7rom2ohn.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/return%20to%20glory/IMG_4041_zps7rom2ohn.jpg.html)
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I hope you invite me to the fire!!! :P
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man you are pulling a chip! one problem avoided with tearing into 14 non problems to disable the jeep!
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all issues are related to the same root problem..
shit doesn't run correctly.
- had to pull glovebox for engine CPU
- daisy chain of hacks into a column Crank/Run wire... need dedicated circuits, and some things can go away for good..
- gauge pod didn't want to register temp.. thats kinda a problem with a fresh motor/head
Jeep still runs and drives and its not locked in a building somewhere...
you gave me a nice (and much appreciated) head start on this. I would have wandered down the path of coating manifolds, painting stuff, engine compartment cleanup, etc. that would have been Chip worthy..
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haha
it will live again. fun jeep.
just poking you along! :)
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I'm not getting enough fuel at idle.
Howell sending me a new "stock" prom with a touch richer mixture at cold idle
Troy says cam chips are normally leaner and that could be the issue I am having.
If this chip and traditional engine tuning doesn't resolve there is something going on with pump in tank.
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Coolant temp sender swapped out for OE
Valve cover removed for re seal.
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Some weekend work while waiting for new prom...
- Valve cover resealed
- gauge pod back together
- fuel lines will need to be rerouted
Temp gauge still inoperable... New sending unit tests ok, ordered a new gauge
Ran engine to operating temp and no leak from back of valve cover..
Not happy with where fuel line is. I feel it's getting cinched between body and frame.
Pulled it ontop of frame in wheel well to have unrestricted flow..
Back of the Land Rover has become YJ workstation.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/1988%20YJ/return%20to%20glory/IMG_0029_zps1jtsepe8.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/1988%20YJ/return%20to%20glory/IMG_0029_zps1jtsepe8.jpg.html)
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New chip and a new set of problems..
engine runs great... have smoke.. something is fucked..
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like mosquito clearing smoke.. I'm so over this shit
OBD has coolant temp right where it should be, good oil pressure.. haven pulled plugs yet
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stop guessing and get a laptop on this thing
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unless a laptop can tell me whats going on inside the motor its going to be useless...
Fuel delivery is running best it has in years..
white smoke coming from tailpipe and breathers is telling me this thing is fucked.
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live data will show very quickly what is unhappy. still sounds like fuel delivery issues.
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spotted on FB today!
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??? Where?
I'm not on the book
Dropped at Scottys for them to play with
Seems there might be an external oil leak from back of head.
Shop might have missed crack or bad head gasket. Evaluating more this week.
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looked like starbucks parking lot across the street
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Yup that scottys. But who's page?? I don't understand how that works
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some one takes a picture of a jeep and tags their jeep group asking
"Who's?"
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Jeep runs awesome.. best idle and throttle response I can remember having ..
will hold 65 in 5th gear right around 2K RPM.. very happy with cam and setup.
Still fighting the oil cloud though..
Leak down test performed and engine passed 100%
compression test same results..
still have smoke after long idle
#3 spark plug was the only cyl that appeared to have an issue.
last resort will be to replace the valve seals this winter since that's the only thing it could be at this point aside from a crack or other machine issue..
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That was the eagle head? I'd certainly suspect valve seals given what it looked like...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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it was cleaned, fluxed and rebuilt...
human error always a possibility, or a bad seal...
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Possibility of wheeling list....
Temp gauge... need one, even if temporary mechanical one...
Re connect rear ARB switch (I went ape on the dash)
Winch plate modification and new winch install..
Dig out trail box and recovery
Drive home from carter was uneventful and fun... some oil smell, but no smoke
Engine and Howell running (knock on wood) awesome