M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on May 21, 2020, 12:16:34 PM
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What could possibly go wrong?
Serious answers.
is it overkill? sure. I don't need 17 acres per hour cutting speed, and I'll surely not be able to achieve that anyway with trees and narrow spots.
But - could I get a functional similar hours/quality zero turn for less? I'm not sure. He already said he'd to $2200. I don't know that I can get him better than that.
Hoses are generic, hydro motors are generic.
blades and spindles could be tough
belts are generic
it's a Cummins and a Dana 60.
They sold this as a snowblower too, with hydro drive hubs on the steer axle. Doubt I can find those parts but it would be plenty of snowthrower to do all needs here if I could.
I think the parts issues are probably people who want to go to a dealer and buy a thing without thought.
The issue is the weight on my lawn. I don't know distribution but I'm guessing by tires at 60/40 front biased? engine is pretty far back though. Duals on the front may solve, or the rear steers may be an issue as well.
Would certainly take some time to learn how to drive it.
other down side is that if it doesn't work it'll probably take a good while to sell.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1817172161749876/
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http://www.howardpriceturf.com/specsheet_hydropower180.htm
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edging towards yes.
did a little more shopping. cheap $1000 runner zero turn sold in less than a day from craigslist this morning. all other comparables are more expensive than this even at 2200. can put 500 into it and still be cheaper than most zeros - either to have something way cooler or completely useless. that's the debate...
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this is the other "cheap" option - a 50" Ariens with a weak engine for $700
not that replacing an engine is cheap.
and 50" is small for my use, I think
https://rochester.craigslist.org/grd/d/rochester-ariens-zoom-2050-turn/7127860289.html
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Woods 20hp 60" $1200 2060hr
Seems underpowered.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2708202726127618/
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$1500 cub cadet 27hp 60" 430hr
hour south of buffalo though :(
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/567836030812161/
Hey Josh...
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I don't know how I missed this one. 72" 22hp diesel Jacobsen with 1900 hours, 4 miles from home, asking 2k
going to test drive at 10:00 tomorrow
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/517627342521538
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I think that might be perfect.
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I’ve read that people have a great success with “dimple knobby†tires (the kind you see on Honda 3 wheelers) who had issues with zero turns on hills or soggy ground. Far more doable with that Jacobsen
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I don't know how I missed this one. 72" 22hp diesel Jacobsen with 1900 hours, 4 miles from home, asking 2k
going to test drive at 10:00 tomorrow
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/517627342521538
That is a great ad
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Good call Brett!
I’ve got a good feeling on this one. Excited. And unlike the batwing, not scared.
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It’s a winner. Getting cash now.
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o boy!
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Didn’t do continuous, so I don’t have a time. Probably 3.5-4hr? Got it stuck 3x, only when I got the drives in existing ruts from the Cub in wet.
Could use another 10-15hp in tall grass. Could use another 10mph for transit too. Top speed is only 8.
Wonder if I could turbo it?
I don’t know that the ATV tires would clean out. I think at tires are the only way to go if I want to upgrade.
Have to reverse up the big hill at the pond for weight transfer. Works once I figured the technique.
Met another neighbor, he drove the Deere the last time I got the Jacobsen stuck. Doug.
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Is it Rear discharged?
I wonder does it’s top speed changed when mower is running? If not, might can try find that extra oomph of flow to wheel motors for transit?
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hmm HP was first thing i thought of when i read that add.
i would take a look at the blades- a new set of blades or a quick sharpen with a flap wheel will do wonders for the mower.
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the hill is pretty good. i couldnt side hill it, had to go up and over and only about 3' to spare from the pond when trying to slow down lol
how did it do out front with all the trees behind the pond?
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I didn’t duck between every tree. Too damn many.
That’s like an every third mow thing.
It retards downhill no problem! Not scared of the pond, it slows well.
Came with spare blades, just mowed with whatever is on it.
Highest deck setting diagramed on the deck is 4 or 4.5, i forget. I set it there. I think there are more holes and it may go higher if I read the manual. Far more complex to adjust height than my mid mount or your zero.
Got it for 1800, doesn’t need tires or a seat. Well cared for. Most of a tank of diesel too. I do need to fill that already though. Burned well over 1/2 tank.
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And yes it’s rear discharge. I don’t think deck motor steals much from wheel motors. Just wish for more hp to keep deck speed up on taller grass. I think 72†really needs more like 30hp to mow at 5+mph
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Put half a turn, then another quarter turn on the “smoke screwâ€. I may not need a turbo. Found another 5hp I bet. Whether that makes it 20 or 25hp now I don’t care. I think it might be enough.
If I get dissatisfied, I’ll put 2 more turns on it and make sure it’s thick black smoky enough to support more air. Then install a rotary muffler.
Got it stuck testing. Put my spare set of mowzer chains on it and rocked it out. Fun to do that in the mud. Mower a bit with chains on. Not bad. One got crooked so I took them off but they may make future appearances. I’m confident I’d have not gotten stuck in the first place if I were chained up.
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Put half a turn, then another quarter turn on the “smoke screwâ€. I may not need a turbo. Found another 5hp I bet. Whether that makes it 20 or 25hp now I don’t care. I think it might be enough.
Excellent 8)
Got it stuck testing. Put my spare set of mowzer chains on it and rocked it out. Fun to do that in the mud. Mower a bit with chains on. Not bad. One got crooked so I took them off but they may make future appearances. I’m confident I’d have not gotten stuck in the first place if I were chained up.
how exactly the 'traction assist pedal' work? did chains chew up your lawn on turns, though?
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it's a 3' turning radius or so, didn't do bad things when steering as tight as possible. reduced spin when turning increased speed when turning tight. inside tire clearly slips a fair bit. Clearance to the deck and to traction pedal linkage is an issue when chained up.
I'm curious what ag tires would be like. spare wheels would be nice. Shame the bolt patterns between the deere and jacobsen don't match, since drive tire size does match. Steer tire size might even match, didn't check.
traction pedal is a left tire brake, and that's it. It's not a locker engage that I'd hoped for. a right side brake with matching pedal was an option.
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no complaints at all after I finished mowing. If I see/hear my neighbor Mike go mow the vacant house I may join him, looks like that's a good 6-8" tall and would be a good test.
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Thats great!
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my big girl is rear. It's not even though and that makes me not like it. It leaves cuttings in 2 stripes, where the three blades overlap. I think it's worse than side discharge for leaving clippings piles, and I think it's a big source of my bogging in tall grass, since it just fills up inside the deck. I do love it for edging though.
what type blades you're running now? and is the deck clean underneath? packed deck (less space for grass to fly around & re-cut and bog down also) and low lift dull blades tend to do that.
I get "Gator" blades whenever I need to buy a blade. worth the money, better mulching and for some reason they're much more resist to bending when hitting foreign objects.
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read around on frustration with similar issues briefly earlier in the week - many said that low lift blades made their mowers suffer more from similar bogging, while others disagreed. I think what works best has more to do with deck design than anything else. I have not had a close look at the bottom of the deck, since I couldn't pick it up on a 2 post lift and haven't removed the deck. It doesn't pick it up very high. Car ramps plus deck at max height should give me OK access.
I have rubber edging around the deck front and rear, I wonder about adjusting that so it can puke more grass - hopefully without covering the operator or hucking rocks.
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I just had a thought - I think backspacing may be an issue, but I almost bet my rear tires on the brolite could be a fit for a more aggressive drive tire on the Jacobsen. That'd be a funny swap back n forth. I think they're a 26x12.50r14, and they are certainly 5x4.5 which I bet is right. Not sure about that diameter clearing.
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my ferris is 5x4.5 lug (jeep/ranger) too
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Had to rinse off the radiator last night 3/4 done. Lots of crap on it, just I can hear the high temp alarm at 225-230, over hearing protection.
Have all new filters, probably flush coolant too. So much maint to do!
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Fan blows towards the front, with rear radiator. Probably crapped up when I ran it without the hood for a couple mows while tuning.
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Found an okay cross reference for Gator blades. 1/16†longer. One center hole, not three. Way cheaper than my discontinued NLA blades. Order actually went through so we’ll see if better.
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would be nice to send the jacobsen and mow with whatever tractor instead of having machinery multiplication, and that's not the right unit for that I don't think. Too big, too weird.
It is nice to be able to hold a cold beverage while mowing. Another vote on belly mounted mower. Although it’s nice to not relying on one equipment to do everything.
You’re welcome to ‘test’ out my 44†hydro walk behind w/ sulky to get a feel on what one can do for you as if in conjunction with a mower tractor. I suppose a WB can temporarily the primary mower during the wet and soggy in spring
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are you down to mowing a 1/2 acer yet instead of 5?
then sure mow with X
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zero interest in a walkbehind, that's silliness for a property this size that's mostly clear, not darting through trees.
that crazy batwing thing that started this thread is more appealing all the time.
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Couple bolts rattled loose. Minor issue resulted. Lots of things attach to the front axle so when it moved 1.5†relative to the chassis i could no longer disengage pto, lift the deck, or move backwards.
Has top locks now. No damage done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200831/de9df9a3f703ee06a4c8f38c4a8c7fc3.jpg)
I would be unhappy if I hadn’t paid under 2 grand for this. But it’s good enough for now. Still clumpy discharge. It’s just not built for how I mow; I cut too much off at once and want too fast of travel speed. Not lacking for power anymore though. Tackled 8†long wet ditch grass and loaded up and rolled coal, but did not bog down.
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ready to hawg come springtime. or a wet fall.
25x10-12 replacing 23x10.5-12. they're really squished width-wise from shipping.
may or may not need to push the deck forward a little, that's an easy adjustment if I do. I think fenders will clear without modification. will need to determine how far to lower the rear of the deck to compensate, expect 1" but will see. If I move the deck forward I think that will complicate that due to how its suspended.
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Had to swap fuel filter today. Didn’t pick up a bunch of power from before. Hopefully not a problem going forward with my fueling station! Not sure how it could be with the 10 micron between pump and nozzle?
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Zero stucks. Smoother ride. Had to air up a bit over spec (7psi) to not tear up on every turn. Do have to be careful with acceleration when cornering to not tear things out but overall a springtime success. Mowed straight through the big center backyard puddle without hesitation. 3-4†deep. I was aiming to skirt that one but saw it through the grass a bit late and committed. Probably could do a few other places I avoided.
Now if only I were dragging a heavy assed loan roller and could squish down some of the high spots into the low spots….
Mild rub on one side. Did have to push the deck forward an inch. Drilled one hole a tiny bit too low and annoyed myself. It’s fine.
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nice. did the fence holes fill them selves in yet?
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I filled those with the backfill I pulled away from the foundation last year. Can’t see them at all anymore.
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No way I could have mounted these without tubes. I gave a valiant effort.
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Another plugged fuel filter? Sure running like it. Fuel in the bowl looked fine. Guess I need to keep a filter on the shelf if that is the issue. Hmm.
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Was drawing down fuel level in the bowl. Got that bled and now fine. Cause unknown. Bad tank to filter line? There is a post filter lift pump so air leaks could be a thing.
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I just noticed US General tool chest oh-shit handles. Nice touch 😎
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My yard is annoyingly rough to mow. It’s mostly dried out now and goes from sopping mess of nearly getting stuck to concrete. How the F to smooth that out? I think I could take a roller compactor across most or all of it now but it seems likely that there’s only a couple day window where that’s true before the roller would do nearly nothing.
Damn horses and low spots.
I guess I should just re-grade and fix the low spots to delete the mud so it stays flat once it’s smoothed out mechanically. Then I just need to deal with getting something other than weeds to grow in the concrete after re-grading.
So I just need better suspension
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i dont remember it rough when i mowed, but im sure chains on forklift and UTV tires on the mower are not helping compared to the turf saver tires on mine.
not sure what the solution is
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2205797656219650/
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sheep :P
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Parts of the pastures were rough to begin with. Ruts from mowing and otherwise crossing the wet areas compound it. The couple forklift stucks and heavy trailers haven’t fully smoothed out.
I put a yard or two of topsoil in the holes this spring but the rough parts are still rough. I could lower pressure in the ATV tires and get a good ride but it increases tear out. There’s no suspension on the deck idlers up front so it beats that framework up pretty good if I don’t slow up.
I wonder if I could just tow a roller when I mow now that it’s not soupy and just peck away at at or if the concrete clay won’t move.
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My tractor pulling out 100 fence posts probably didnt help either when it was mushy!
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Rolling smooths my yard out for a week then it’s right back to bumpy. Had it done three weeks in a row last year with one of those mini rollers, same results.
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My lawn is so damn bumpy... so when I bought my zero turn a couple of months ago, I opted for the suspension system (Toro's MyRide). Absolutely love it! It really made a difference in how I felt after cutting my lawn.
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My sitework guy offered to let me use this big guy for a weekend to flatten out some of my pastures last fall when he was on site to give estimates, but I have not asked if he was really serious or not.. my whole property is also extreme clay soil, and very punched up from all the horses. I am just not sure if the roller will pack the soil to much and hurt the grass.
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I used one of those big boys on my yard years ago. Didn’t bother the grass one bit. Also didn’t seem to make a difference - too dry.
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yeah there's definitely a narrow sweet spot where it's hard enough to support but soft enough to make a difference. I wonder if maybe a good watering before rolling during late season dry times might be the ticket?
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Well that might be the worst mow job since springtime mudbogs but it's done for a couple days and shorter hayfield will dry more quickly.
Played with deck angle a bit since clumping was criminal. Higher in front was way better. May go another notch.
Deck has a very slight twist. Had been dead level on one side and front low on the other. I still think my blade speed is too low and bogs. Haven’t looked at plumbing in pressure gauges or trying to measure rpm.
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Before and after adjusting
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theory: front should be the lowest, else you are cutting the same blade of grass over and over again...
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There’s a relief valve somewhere on PTO hydraulic circuit? Maybe the valve or worn hydro motor bypassing when under load slowing down blade tip speed?
I reckons the rear discharge don’t help any. It has to do with either deck design or insufficient spindle speed. Id close off the rear discharge to keep grass in the deck and mulch.
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worn motor not unlikely.
I'm familiar with that concept mark. but I noticed while avoiding making big ruts today that it cut way cleaner in reverse. so I thought I'd try going against that logic instead of going stronger to front down when one side was already 1/4" lower in front, and it improved significantly. so...
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needs more fuel plate 8)
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i have found during this rainy season, im more happy to mow ever 6 days instead of every 7, because i like to go full speed instead of 80% speed haha
Thats an impressive amount of uniform silage for rear discharge! how long was it since last mow? lol
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I probably cut off 60% of length.
had probably been 2 weeks. day job issues.
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lol @ 2 weeks
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Flat on one side :(
(It is tubed)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210923/77ee528a2385b03e505cede05795b6f0.jpg)
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Tire leaks down in a couple hours.
Didn’t fix it yet. Did mow until dark and then put a couple lights on it, then fill the tire and mow a bit more.
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i have now patched and tubed both my zero turn drives- they have been holding up so far this year.
im really tempted to just spend the money on the tweels, but havent yet.
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Pulled the tire, felt nothing inside. Soaped the tube and saw nothing. Reassembled and finished mowing. Now already flat in the garage an hour later.
Guess I’ll either squirt some Slime in next time i fill it, or just swap the tube. Must be something small enough to only open up at operating pressure but be sealed at naked tube inflated to non sketchy stretch size.
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Check the valve stem. I have had ones got me good when the valve core or stem leaks
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Stem and core were checked twice before first tear down. Still good now.
Tube at 2x static size exposed a pin hole. Unknown source. Surprised it didn’t leak when soaped at inflation but even at scary balloon size it’s like 4psi, so just a learning experience/ reminder I guess. 95% of my tube knowledge is on bike tires.
I appear to only have radial patches. Will order spare tube and a couple tube patches.
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Stopped leaking once it shrunk down. Slimed it and mowed for an hour or 90. Hopefully it takes.
Patch and spare tubes late next week.
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Nice! I added lights on my zeroturn earlier in the year and love it.
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Not flat!
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Not flat!
Yea!
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It’s now a week flat instead of a day flat. Will have to pull it again. Went from 15 to 11.5psi in an after dark rip roaring record setting 1.9 hour complete mow.
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about to tear into the transaxle. actuating the H-N-L shifter directly does not feel broken. With cold fluid after sitting about 18 hours, the travel control does load up the engine.
No funny noises at all, but it will not move.
No funny feelings or noises when it stopped either, and no preceding abuse.
Found a service manual directly from Jacobsen, its diagnostics for "will not move" say only:
a. Differential bevel gears broken.
b. Stripped teeth on gears.
c. Broken input pinion.
there is no PTO cover or other viewing option unfortunately, so this is just about a complete teardown :(
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I just added a bunch of slime to that same right side tire before I started mowing yesterday, it was flat again.
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Eaton model 11 hydrostatic transmission output shaft sheared. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/55cedc7b1e6d2f3eb13250bfa5540e17.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220508/911d8bbd34e7422e6c3f3039f439ec46.jpg)
Some disassembly required
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I have not been able to find the part or a part number for this output shaft yet. Concerning…
OD is just under 3/4, minor dia of the splines is about .535
Ratings on this Eaton model 11 range to 20hp. I’m supposed to be 22hp and have turned it up a little. That doesn’t seem great, either.
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Ebayed a complete used model 11 trans for like 280 with tax and ship. Silliness.
I bet that part would retail for 100+ anyway as new old stock. Probably unsellable trans without a good output shaft, but I’ll try… definitely feel like I should have a spare output on the shelf right now and plan send the whole unit with stock size tires if it happens again. Will have to keep an eye out for cheap spares I guess.
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Notably bad packing job on the eBay trans but no damage and part was a match.
Seemed to take forever to put back together but no issues and it’s operating great.
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This worked pretty well. I kept the Jacobsen in low range the whole time, hopefully saving load overall on that tiny transmission output, and finished my first mow with this setup about half an hour quicker than usual. Done right, I bet I can get to 2hr instead of 2:45-3.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220605/174ff25aba5574b80a23a6abac7bcdd8.jpg)
I need to make some adjustments and deck repairs. It operates fully on its own, hydrostatic drive. The oil looked like SHIT: very shiny. So maybe the Kohler is on its way out, maybe just neglected. I have changed it twice now. Splash lube/ no filter.
I picked it up CHEAP along with another similar unit (belt drive, not hydrostatic, but deck is perfect). I don’t think I could run with two of these at once without impressive complexity, so I’ll get the other running and probably sell whichever goes first. Turning left moves the towed mower off track quickly and leaves a stripe. If I wanted to run two wings like this I’d need to make a compensator of some sort to adjust track of the rear decks to compensate for the steering.
To run further forward in the middle of the wheelbase where off-tracking wouldn’t be an issue, all 4 wheels must be swivel casters. To do that, I could absolutely use these decks but in that case I’d want to drive them with two more hydraulic motors like the front deck. I don’t think I have the flow to do that and I don’t think I have an easy option to get more hydraulic power. I see very clearly why the machines with wing mowers are twice or more the size of this one.
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I need more pictures of this setup please
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F pictures, we need a video
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You’re a machine!
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Got the other walk behind running today. Needs a main seal, ordered parts. Needs one tire fixed too. Not sure what it’ll sell for. Probably make it the towable and sell the Woods after deck repair(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220613/8ebd5763ad8c4f81b0c99c7f634c25b2.jpg)
Mowed on Friday and did it all in 2.5hr in low, instead of 2.75-3hr in high without the “wing”.
Not the speed up I was hoping for but I bet it’ll make the Jake transmission not break again.
About 2 gallons of gasoline on top of the Jake’s diesel. It’s probably burning just as much as without towing.
Idk.
Probably test a zero turn sometime and just keep eyes out for a great deal on one.
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blade RPM dropped to about useless today. need to diag hydraulics. I have a service manual but not the necessary gauges.
Anyone have hydraulic test stuff, or tees and plugs?
There's a likely good test stand on ebay for relatively reasonable money https://www.ebay.com/itm/265849695469
but I'm still short lines and adaptors to 37? JIC, according to the service manual:
a. #6 9/16 18
b. #8 3/4 16
c. #10 7/8 14
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Finished mowing with the Mowzer. Blade and deck both on from pushing some stuff around whenever I last did that. Oooooof does it need power steering to ever do that again. My hands feel like I just stripped half a roof of shingles.
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Swapping in a tdi tonight? ;D
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bad mechanical cooling fan bearing confirmed, removed, ordered.
hydraulic motor removed.
I have no idea where I'm going to find stuff to plug this with. I guess I need to browse TSC for hydraulic fittings and plugs? I think it's -12 ports? Not sure if I'd rather find out it's the pump or the motor, the motor was easy to pull. pump doesn't look too bad if I have to.
Mowzer on mowing duty sometime this week. Definitely with the gang mower setup.
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i finally mowed a nice full green lawn yesterday. it was looking pretty dead and dry for the month of august.
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2hr mowing and mowzer is out of gas. Lawn nearly done with gang mower setup on it.
Mowzer is working hard to not be pushed around by the gang mower. But absolutely does cut time in half if I have to cut with it, compared to almost no time savings going slower with the Jacobsen.
Got some 37* JIC plugs and caps yesterday and plugged up the motor. I suspect the motor is bad, it’s stiff to turn one way and not too difficult to turn the other way using the 8” pulley. So probably will throw a motor at it, and depending how much that hurt$, maybe still get the hydraulic tester and set the relief valve to spec or a smidge tighter and maybe get it cutting much better. I hope?
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And like another hour to finish mowing the hills where Mowzer can’t handle the gang. Including removing the gang and fueling.
Definitely only a temporary solution.
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New cooling fan bearing here. Couldn’t get old to budge at all out of mount. Can’t see any clips. Out of small tank propane to heat and expand. I really need to get a press
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I keep forgetting to grab the hydraulic motor to see if cylinder service can match it up.
I might want to borrow my neighbor's Ferris and see how a ZT does my yard... I think the front deck is awful nice for the pine trees. but meh if it's quicker overall
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i didnt have any problems with my Ferris on your lawn, just watch the ROPs on some of your trees and the ditch up front!
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I keep forgetting to grab the hydraulic motor to see if cylinder service can match it up.
Dropped this morning.
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$450 and 23 week lead time
Fuuuuuck.
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jeez
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lame. at least its end of season in a few mows.
id still like a bit more HP, but i dont think im at the trade in point for my initial investment of 7800 to upgrade, although its been nice to just mow and no issues for 4 seasons.
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Got half mowed in 6hr with the Mowzer today. Deck drive belt issue and then 2 trips and 6-8 belts later it’s still an inch small.
Length didn’t match published specs I found of either 64 or 106 for primary or secondary. What I took off measured 80 and was under tensioned so I got a 79
Then went back for 80 through 84 and got it running. I think it wants an 85 or maybe 86
Neighbor with the Ferris is away.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220918/0771534170d10f391a7b9c038eb09a90.jpg)
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Snapped the 84 today. Traded in the rest of that pile for a pair of 85s. They don’t seem to like to stay twisted like the mule drive needs and run on the wrong face. May need to get a Deere belt if I can find the right part number. Failed in that so far so we’ll see.
Expect it’s a 4 hour cut without problems. Tolerable for another month I guess. Annoying.
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Found a used pump on eBay for 300. Hopefully pick up on my way to f&f on Friday. Overpriced but availability is what it is I guess
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Fully buggered. Going to have to waste half the day mowing with the Mowzer one day this weekend.
The motor I got is supposed to be from the same model tractor. Textron dealer I contacted said the motor comes with the tractor, not the deck, so i figured by application should be safe.
This motor had 2 different size ports, and was a shade shorter in height than the motor being replaced. I went up to PowerDrives today and got the needed fittings and got everything put back together. It spins the blades fast as fuck! To the point the mower engine is loaded up a bit and hazing under moderate load as i take a test pass. Blades sound like they’re really flying but cut quality doesn’t look great… could it be backwards?
I had to change fittings after all…
Sure enough, blades are spinning backwards.
Flipped the hoses and it just puked fluid through the seal. Probably blew that seal out in that quick test.
So back to hunting. And hopefully find a seal and a proper application for this motor to sell it.
I wish hydraulic motor part numbers weren’t just made up out of nowhere to intentionally make cross reference difficult. Fuck.
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i can run out tomorrow with my ferris if you need help im free let me know.
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I spent 4hr on the little Deere yesterday getting it done.
That machine isn’t meant for the duty cycle. That’s 2 full tanks of gas and one stiff back!
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Brought some parts machines home today. Also found a maybe perfect machine roadside “for sale” on my way to the second machine.
I have a groundskeeper to call tomorrow and may part out everything I have now and buy a ready to run big boy. AWD low ground pressure 50 horse. I need to read up on it. I hope the price I was told today is right…
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Swapped the deck drive motor from the spare identical mower I brought home last weekend. Mowed no issues. Yay!
Same blade speed I had before and lots of windrowing still there. Meh!
The spare mower came with a super fancy articulating deck. It's a bit incomplete but I'm going to try and use it. Seems to be in reasonable shape. Should give a much better cut, following terrain which is a bit of an issue with some spots with the 72" deck, and more importantly should bounce a lot less too the way the casters and rollers are set up. Looking forward to that. Bearings all good, needed all rollers and casters and belts. I have new rollers on the way and should be able to move casters and blades to it from other things here. Belts might be OK for a test run, TBD.
Now that grass is mowed, going to swap starter onto the new to me mower and see if it'll start. It cranked once or twice and then wouldn't, but compression got better while cranking... I have my doubts. I should have beat him up a little harder on the price but I think it'll be OK. Need to get the other one I brought home brought in to start parting out too. Greens reel mower that didn't work out for the previous owner, and he harvested the Kubota out of it. Didn't want to part it for some reason and sold the whole machine for the price of the hydraulic pump.
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found a maybe perfect machine roadside “for sale” on my way to the second machine.
Superintendent got back to me and said "it should be sold"
¯\_(?)_/¯
I'll call again next week and if it's not gone I'd still pick it up.
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Oh I wish I had both earplugs in for that. Tire slice too long for tube. Ouch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221104/64d13fdd633dcad5b06ced9f2ad7b9d1.jpg)
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I layered up the popped tube over a new one and didn't bother to seat the beads. Holding. good enough for maneuvering.
engine runs well once I got it fired. air filter housing was FULL of water, mud, rust and maybe seeds and shit? That was probably the firing fail before the started failed: it was choked. no idea how, housing is complete.
hydraulic pump is good, engine bogs with the lines plugged if I tickle the PTO.
Travel is super slow. will check linkage adjustment closer in daylight but it looks OK-ish. goes backwards way better than forwards so maybe it's linkage.
Should be good parts, hoping that transmission is good and not just the transaxle, but so far so good, really.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221105/ba7733646fc52bb36d32c5d3e4e4302a.jpg)
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im confused
you bought another of the same mower semi broken/fixable other than the fancy deck, or is it bigger/more power?
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Another of same with the fancy deck, it got me the hydraulic motor i needed. Part out the spare bits.
I was hoping to get to part both turfcats if I could get the big one but that’s looking not good. I’ll follow up on that next week.
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That’s a sweet turf cat!
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Was worried the hydrostat was shot on the new to me turfcat. Wasted hub and axle shaft, was taken apart and brake was gutted once. Shaft spinning in the hub. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221106/a3cba129b4b62d626474b18a9da0aee8.jpg)
See the wear in the bottom bracket from the back of the drum too. Someone did a lot of hours in oops mode.
Hub is totally wasted. About 20% of the shaft is broken out.
That and a bad starter is all that’s really WRONG
Time to put it all on the shelf and get it on eBay.
Came with a full tank of diesel too.
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When I can’t find the Mowzer later, I left it in the stable
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230624/ed02bb40695e677064aeb28c45bae6f9.jpg)
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Have had a hard start on this unit for the last 2-4 mows. Seemed like low volts, was expecting a charging issue. Needed to move it last night, battery charger on START didn't help. Figured battery must be shorted, but it tested good. New battery that also tested good didn't help. Booster box hooked directly to starter didn't help either.
Figured it must be the starter, then. Pulled it and found the bushing in the snout of the starter is just about gone.
May be able to get away with just replacing that bushing but I'm unsure. Presently intend to check with that alternator/starter place. not sure I'll make it there before closing today.