'61 MG Midget

[mr.mindless]

Looking at this tomorrow. Plan to bring it home.

Last new thing for a while, I swear.
Not a runner, but appears largely complete. Will probably make it work as it is, and go from there on flip vs keep, with or without a re-power. Might be enough to get Sarah to finally learn to shift, she's wanted a little British sports car since forever.

[cracker]

Last new thing for a while, I swear.

lol...lol...lol...

[etk300ex]

oh lord

[M]

oh lord!

Fixed 

[Callelle]

Needs to be a custom plate with that for this

[mr.mindless]

If I can’t find a 1961 vintage plate, that might be worth it.

Appears to be super solid. Lots of spare parts. Front bumper and bottom seat cushions might be the only things missing.

It’s about the size of your shoe, Josh

Doubt I’ll find a reasonable price on any wire wheels for it, probably get some 155/??R13 on the way for it

[cracker]

Facebook says he bought it...

[mr.mindless]

Yup. Motor is freed up, was a tiny bit stuck. Some atf in the bores while the battery charges. Valve train is still oily wet. Going to start with a compression test. It has run on the plugs that were in it.

Under hood needs a good vacuuming

I need to set up some tables to catalog the parts that came with it. Two small totes full of seals and gaskets and brake parts and parts catalogs.

[Wingman]

Do yourself a favor and send it down the road. It will be the death of you and/or your wallet…

[jaysenodell]

Do yourself a favor and send it down the road. It will be the death of you and/or your wallet…

I can verify the truth of this.


There is a motor shop in Macedon/Walworth that build high end motors for these guys. Last motor I purchased was from him. Last contact I have for him is: Ben Jacobs -- 315.986.9037 (British Auto Recycling is the name I show on the invoice)


For general assistance with difficult problems, talk to Darryl at Charleston Import Automotive -- 843.552.6555. He can get unobtainium parts and even manufacture components that are no longer available. Tell him you received his info from me.


There is also https://www.mgexp.com/forum/. Generally good guys, but it is the internet. Darryl (who I take madge to when she's broken) says it's about 75% right. I figure you're smart enough to see the 25% that is fecal matter.


Wire wheels are available. Moss or Darryl for "certainty of product" over price. You can find them on the net without too much trouble.


if you get that silver bumper running, it will get some $$ at resale. Those things are the ones everyone wants.

[mr.mindless]

Unfortunately the front bumper is about the only thing that's missing. I do have 4 matching MG wheel covers for it with the mounting flanges on these wheels though.
with the mower issues, I didn't get back to it yesterday to check compression and make sure it's oiling yet. With the shape it's in I expect it's a runner. Just need to reconnect and refill and bleed all fluids, and go from there.

[etk300ex]

You have 4 days

[carchameleon]

these look like fun, but I remember the electrical headache that started Jason's MG's stop at my house 

if I were to get another MG, I'd buy a shell or a non running something to put modern drivetrain and new wiring that's not British haha

[mr.mindless]

Anything more advanced than switchgear is not to be trusted. Making sure everything is properly fused is on the important things list for 60 year old wiring anyway.

Factory setup appears to have 4 or so Buss fuses in open air on the wet side of the firewall. No wonder everything always fails.

[mr.mindless]

Wet compression numbers not great. Probably good enough to run, maybe.

110/190/145/140

Didn’t get oil flow at the top end while cranking. Only oil up top is what I squirted on when I started rolling it over. No pressure on gauge either.

Electronic switchgear basics seem good. Couple bulbs out is all. Left signal intermittent. HVAC controls seem mostly missing. Blower and heater core under the hood…

About as exciting as the Stovebolt in the Chevy: Seemed hopeful, and then not.

I think I’ll try to get it oiling, and then see if it’ll run. Maybe bore scope it and see what I can see inside. Unless the oil pump failed it ought to be decent at 45,000 miles.