M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2013, 11:37:36 AM
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I thought I had a topic on this guy but I don't see one.
Need to make up some cribbing, I couldn't get 3 Ford Fiestas on there, the frontend is too low. They're 6" longer than a Mazda2 but could still be crammed on in tres with 3-4" ramps for the front tires of the front car.
Nick and I adjusted the brakes when I picked it up from him, they were all pretty loose. They still suck - but less, and seem to be improving a bit.
Lowered the coupler a notch (beware bedsides, those who may borrow) to level it out a bit. Still slightly uphill on my new truck so I may drill another hole. Not sure if that might bring it to 'too low'
Needs some spring hanger work after that piggy Cummins rode back from NC on it, and I need to check spring bolts and equalizer bars on both trailers. Miles are adding up! I may try to get that done tonight.
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yeah going to need that to bring the aston for service soon too
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I was wondering if QP gets any miles on it and would need service again. There's an Aston, too? Fun stuff
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qp was so 2 years ago..
aston is the obnoxious daily driver of choice
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Nice.
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Got stud measurements.
1/2" fine thread stud
17/32" x1 1/8" knurl
23/32" dia head
2 1/2" length
Need +1/4-1/2" thread. Knurl could be up to 3/16" longer
Both trailers need equalizers, pivot bolts, and slipper pads rebuilt. 2" springs 3/4" pivot bolts 1/2" spring bolts, low pro.
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equalizers and pivot bolts ordered for both trailers. a triple axle kit from etrailer was the easiest and cheapest way to purchased that I found. ($152)
2 1/2" studs are the longest 1/2" studs they list, not sure if there is a 3" long 1/2-20 out there.
Enlarging 32 holes to go to a 9/16 or 5/8 stud seems like more work than $800 in new LR F wheels and tires, when I may be able to sell the Grabbers that are on there for 150-200. On the other hand, I come back to the fact that sticking near a grand into the wedge seems a bit silly.
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suspension parts showed yesterday.
shopped hard for brake parts, think I found the best deals I'm going to. Expensive to go to better brakes. Looking at just under a grand plus plumbing to stay with drums and go hydraulic, or about 1250 to get disc brakes on there.
Anything would be a serious improvement, but I'm leaning to discs. If I'm spending the money already I may as well upgrade as far as I can. The pump is about half the cost of the upgrade so as long as it proves durable it should be a pretty long-term investment and either increase the value on this unit or be able to be moved to the next trailer should things change.
Of course getting great brakes on this will really make me hate the wedge. I just need to cut the neck off and make this a step deck, then I have no need for the wedge.
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http://parts.mirageinc.com/175-in-radial-tire-and-silver-rim?gclid=CJWTzOWYmLcCFXN0MgodYScALQ
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http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/Vaseline-Jelly?skuId=100610
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gota pay to play
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Gonna be working on some wiring and suspension on this tmw along with tow rig ebrake and checking on some 300 things. Maybe fire late?
Not too late, 07:30 Sunday on campus to work.
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You'll be around during the day tomorrow (sat) for tailgate pickup?
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I would be down for fire later. Probably shat ton of m4 work bah!
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You'll be around during the day tomorrow (sat) for tailgate pickup?
yup
Peeling myself out of bed shortly
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Works well
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/3yjyhunu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/ujaguty2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/ypy4a3ys.jpg)
Wiring:
Y/gr +12
Blk grnd
Br out
Bl in
It supplies +12 when triggered. Run-on is maybe 100-200ms. Well less than a half second. Totally useable.
If I had a hard wired winch, I would want a switch on the +12 to the wireless receiver if it was wired like I did mine. wouldn't want any chance of interference triggering it while not in intentional use.
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That looks almost identical to the warn
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Probably pirated their design and put different stickers on it
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I got one side torn down today and that's it. Far cry from finishing suspension. Didn't even get to the welding part. So much for finishing before the rain :(
Hoping to pick up spring bushings from Brad's today, they're shot too and bolts are too sloppy to bother reassembling without.
Front hanger holes are egged out, going to try to do a lil fill-n-drill before welding washers over to reinforce. Hopefully that works out well. Otherwise I could just cut out new hangers....
Going to pull hubs too. Brake issues need checking. Rear brakes sound like something is broken in the drum.
I'm half tempted to overnight bushings and a disc conversion for Sunday install but I think I'll do one more go-around on these stupid electric drums. I hate trailer brakes.
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big tow comming up or?
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fucking fed up with shit brakes that work poorly and are a maitenance headache from hell
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picked up brass bushings and lube bolts this morning from Brad's.
didn't get bushings for the wedge. dumbass.
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god damn I'm lazy.
due to weather I guarantee I'll be in a mood to wrench n weld on it tonight. So tired of not having a shop!!
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Fucking pain in the dick.
Driver side is all done. Haven't looked at brakes at all.
At least it's mobile until I tear into the px side. Will be easier now that I know what not to do and now to make less scrap. Need extra brutality.
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With lessons learned on the left I did the right side in 2.5 hours including setting up and tearing down shade and cleaning up. It was in very slightly better shape to begin with; one fewer wollowed hole.
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disk brakes ordered.
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Never got shipping notification, but just checked and it went out fedex on monday. eta tomorrah. schweet
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Fuck me. Calipers don't clear the trailer/ suspension. Axle would probably need to be 1-1.5" wider. on. each. side.
So! So much for great brakes upgrade. Guess I'll check into Southwest Wheel return policy. Of course I paid about $150 in shipping an have already packed all 8 bearings :-/
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This is the only clocking where bolts lines up but that's not a big deal at all. The caliper hits the springs or frame no matter where it is.
I'd be okay it it was spring over or had a narrower frame. I'm short at least an inch of clearance. Shitty!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/13/ysesade5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/13/rymy6upa.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/13/y6y6y9an.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/13/a8y2apy5.jpg)
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Reminds me of my Jeep. Back to drums?
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Nothing fits your jeep?
Yeah, back to electric drums and crap brakes. I can hardly wait.
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Spring over that bitch. Your already in the $$ and plan to keep the trailer some perches and bolts will be lime another 100$
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Can't you drill some new holes and put it sideways so the caliper is between the spring and frame
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Doesn't fit between spring and frame. There is no rotation where it clears.
No interest in making it the height it a deckover. I'll just get a deckover if I want that.
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If I move the brake line fitting to where one of the bleeders is, cap that hole with a flush plug, and trim the outside u bolts, I could run the caliper at 6 o'clock. May do that...
Still would need new grease seals for the smaller dia spindles.
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Got the exact same seals I already had from Brads last week. That stops me cold, again.
Trim dead ends on the outside unbolt an grind back a bit of the lip on the ubolt plates to clear where the caliper slides go.
Will be annoying to bleed w bleeders on the bottom but that should be a one time issue. it'd damn well better be worth it in the end. I have middling hopes at this point and regret the purchase. If it wouldn't cost me so much to return it they'd have been gone again last week and I'd continue to suck it up with shit brakes.
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Caliper mounts and hubs on driver side. Trailer is a 4 wheeler again.
I'm about 1/3 done since no plumbing is done yet.
Calipers go on/off inside the wheels. That's GREAT news
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Other 2 hubs and backing plates removed. Plumbing roughed and other calipers reconfigured.
Planning to bleed next, mounting the pump will be fun with need to poke two new holes in stainless brackets.
Then I can get brackets on, calipers on, hubs, tires, mount pump, do final wiring. Rough order of operations. Might make it tonight but I bet not. Titan is a good helper!
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Done tested and parked!
Need to double check grounds everywhere since in spite of working properly the P3 says no trailer connected. Apparently a weak ground between tow vehicle and the pump will cause that symptom.
The pump literature warns in several places about voltage spikes so I need to not leave the winch disconnected and switch between the two battery uses.
I also discovered that my trailer connector on the truck doesn't energize the center pin for backup lights so that's something to fix when I put a gooseneck placed plug on it one of these days.
Feels really good to finally wrap this fucker up.
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but does it stop?
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Probably!
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Checked this out further today and found that not only was reverse to the aux pin skipped but so was +12v
Probably bitchy due to voltage mismatch at the pump between trailer battery and truck system? Certainly would cause big issues.
Didn't get as far as rewiring that plug. Going to add one at the hose position as long as I'm opening up the wiring harness. Found the ram body builder guides with very complete practical wiring info. Found my switched +12v in the cab too. That'll be handy to know.
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Wasn't a ground issue. Was a no-load issue. No load whatsoever detected on the output and the controller didn't like that; with the P3 being listed as a compatible controller I'm curious what the two mfgs will say, I plan to inquire. Tempermanantly fixed with a scrap pile brake magnet wired in parallel with the pump stuffed in the j-box with everything else. Gives it a 2a peak load and no more "no trailer connected."
Swapped a bad backup light relay too so they work again. Time to put some lifetime on there soon.
Should get a light test tow tmw night.
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I had to make the dumbest wiring change I have ever made to get my controller to be happy. on the bright side, 8v locks the tires with about 6500 pounds on the trailer.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/06/ude7ygup.jpg)
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I forgot I made that earlier post. Hah
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Brakes stay lit up after being applied by pedal or by breakaway. Black box problem. Need to call on Monday but the trailer is a paperweight right now if the brakes are connected. Boo hiss. Sorry spencer!
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silly electronics!
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Worked fine today. Breakaway did at any rate.
Talked to Tuson, Alan told me where to take it apart to look for bad potting, moisture, ba spade connections... He wasn't familiar with the addition of "warrant void" Mylar stickers securing that panel now though :(
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seems like you spent a lot of money for this hassle to be cutting warranty tape lol
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tell me about it.
seems like I spent a lot of money to go through the hassle of rebleeding brakes for a fuckin bad board that I could swap myself instead of shipping the whole unit back pump and all too though. If it comes to that I'm very much hoping they'll work with me on it.
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Have checked this every week or so with the breakaway, no repeat of failure. Seems fine.
Was also good from the truck brake controller last Thursday before I didn't head to VA with it.
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Repeat of failure, different mode. Breakaway went fine. Shut off fine. Then kicked a few times. Then wouldn't actuate from truck. Nor from breakaway.
Broke the seal. Drained like half an inch of water out of this "sealed" unit.
Washed down w isopropyl alcohol. The board has some weird thin see through sealant potting it. Nothing visually rotted. Pump runs if I hot wire it. But it won't kick. Gets random clickies when I give it power and neither actuation changes that.
Washed it down a third time w alcohol and I'm leaving it open overnight. Hopefully it works in the morning. If not hopefully they'll send me a board or a unit. Pump motor casing has started to rust. There's no vent nor drain on that compartment. And they didn't put any desiccant in there either which seems odd for a sealed place. Not that it would help given the leak size.
More trouble than it was worth for sure. Boooo
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New controller board on its way.
I'm going to see what I can do about adding some splash/ spray/ rain shielding around the unit. the seals look fine visually... Shame they apparently didn't do their job.
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Finally got to swapping boards. Almost did it last week Thursday but a downpour chased me in.
All checked out well after swap. Then I assembled it and nothing would work. Got a few subsequent relay clicks and then nothing but silence. Triple checked all wiring and connections. No difference truck or not, breakaway or controller.
Pump still worked when directly powered; board was giving no voltage to it nor to the control valve.
Unit is off the trailer, hose is capped, it's boxed up and shipping out tomorrow.
Hope round two is less frustration than round 1. Worst $$ I've spent in the last year.
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I don't have a popup thread, so since these are lowboy compatibility updates:
Narrower track width and taller tires. Original eagle wheels and tires, 205 70 15s I think. Maybe 75s. They'll probably run the backs of the wheel wells. Had to open up a xmember at the rear of the well. Had to grind the shit out of the torsion axle arm. I'm pretty sure my method is straight out of the Dexter manual for alt wheel fitment :whistling:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/07/6fd25d35134301c3e80c826daa0c540b.jpg)
Bent & twisted & catch-prone bumper replaced with 4x~.095 tubing. Hopefully I never rip it out of the trailer frame. It's 300% stronger than any other piece of steel on that trailer including its mounts and the crossmember they're attached to.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/07/df347ce4c12da78740f9cf1acf0c07a3.jpg)
Finished painting it now. Only mod left is to move the trailer jack so the buggy bumper doesn't hit it when turning.
Didn't check out the hot water tank or any other propane crap yet. 3 weeks to several day trip w Titan and Kim!
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/d7b4f37362eeb2eb889090a1f25aac27.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/da09c4452f8e0eba571a531c6dfc1842.jpg)
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What's the target weight?
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Is it gonna work?
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That's actually not to far off. Can the truck rear axle take another 1700lbs?
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14k gvw trailer? How can you shuffle another 1700 forward?
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the 4500 wont care at all with another 5K on the pin
ideas are make the trailer a step deck
flip 572 around, and pull 3' more forward so the rear axle is sitting on the goose arms- lower the load and move it forward.
we are close. i think either way its doable.
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Those ramps worked WAY better to step up to the neck than I expected.
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ya, that was easy. i wonder if my belly would hit the 3" round support if the car was backed on till the diff hit the V
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Probably...
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only metal
im all for the step deck, but it seems a lot of effot with how big my truck appears with a tap measure
move the round support, pull my car on 4' forward and rescale i think is our next easy step.
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target weight is <14000lbs on trailer spindles no fuckes given any other weights
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What is the weight rating for the rear axle on the truck
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12k or 16k ill check tomorrow
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Even with a longer neck if needed for your silly huge bed, a stepdeck is something that actually helps me out in my goals for two rigs plus pop-up so I'm a bit more inclined towards that if mods are actually taking place.
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i am gona vote i need a bigger welder if we are gona tackle that lol
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im open to options. i think my deck is going to make the swap not as good though.
im up for anything if it saves me $7k in trailer expense this year
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Your welder is plenty. I think the absolute thickest parts of the beams are only 3/8"
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Nick did his with a 211!
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/d7b4f37362eeb2eb889090a1f25aac27.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/da09c4452f8e0eba571a531c6dfc1842.jpg)
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haha
i just diagramed out a model, and got 15636 on the trailer axles with approx weights and distances
car1 2 3 trailer axles
weight 4600 4600 4500 5500 15637
pin R 9 23 33 23 27
41400 105800 148500 126500 422200
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calculations show flipping my car around and 2' forward, with CG 4' now forward, and other 2 cars 2' forward on deck, axle weights will be at 14200
we can leave your heavy ass ramps on the tail of the trailer home also since they are not needed
therorecticlly my car will be 4400lbs, but plan to have 4 spare tires on truck bed and under my car on from of trailer deck.
car1 2 3 trailer trailer axles
weight 4600 4600 4500 5500 14281
pin R 5 21 31 23 27
23000 96600 139500 126500 385600
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my 4 spare tires, then yours and matts to make 2 steps under my car, probably dont even need any ramps
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| |O
|O O
O O
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still leaves 2500lbs in rear truck axle weight rating for cargo
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That doesn't seem too bad at all. Predicting within a couple hundo sounds damn accurate, good work on the modeling!
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last unknown would be if we need to cut your neck support tube and move it down a foot or not.
decided to run real numbers today after i realized my car wont move again for about a month on its own....
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probably 400lbs of fuel can be left out till CA also on the trailer
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yup.
trailer spares will be a good idea too. I think I have one broken belt that should get swapped out, odd wear on inboard shoulder on one. Has been that way for a long time.
I think I have 2-3 loose 225s; no spare SRW 19.5s. Not sure I have any good-enough E/F 8 lug 16s, they may have gone with the wedge.
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probably steal one or two F's from Matts collection if needed
loose 225s are probably good. maybe we can come up with a CO2 tank to bring.
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N2 for shocks is fine for tires, not sure on capacity though? I know CO2 lasts a hell of a lot longer but would N2 be dead after seating and filling a couple tires and then have nothing left for shocks?
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ya thats what i was thinking, i have 3N tanks, but they are big and heavy
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i think Tom has a Co2 tank maybe we can borrow
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I'll throw you a tank and reg.
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even if its just a tank i think i have a few low pressure regs
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i already have it set with a hose your good to go
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Dexter pump doesn’t kick on at as low a voltage. Also never lets off when on breakaway, just holds at highest pressure.
Rolling w 3 calipers this weekend. Fix that and bleed it all next week.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/30/61b8c22ed331efa9c47916e5771737b0.jpg)
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your hubs 4.75" pilots?
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I think they're smaller. We measured sometime after the stud issues but I don't remember.
Or maybe it was 4.75 hubs and 5" wheels?
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ah, ok. i am ordering wheels- and want them to fit all of our trailers
i guess i could measure it when i measure mine haha
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what's your wheel price? I wonder if I should think about a spare.
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http://www.boarwheel.com/evron-single-19-5x6/
160$ shipped, in stock ready to go. Joel answers phone and sounds like a shop mechanic that knows his stuff actually.
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hmm maybe shipping is not free, website wont allow you to add to cart without clicking in store pick up
thats pretty lame and misleading.
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I’d take one for 160 for sure so I guess it depends on shipping. That could get expensive depending on how far they’re coming.
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Axles and springs slung under. Brakes bled and half of brackets mounted. Need to drill flanges on other side and verify caliper clearance on new spring plates. Need to check condition and regrease bearings.
9/16 studs will have to wait. Couldn't find a 39/64 bit at retail, 2 will be here next week. Need to get a needle scaler and take care of completely failed powdercoat on wheels too.
Deck needs to be redone. Then the thing will essentially be a completely new trailer (and ready to sell in favor of a big enclosed in the next 18-24 mos...)
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new deck sounds like a lot of work
how much resale do you really think you would gain with a redeck vs, an hour of repair welding and fresh paint?
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it doesn't need an hour of welding repair. it needs a new deck. It's swiss cheesing everywhere, and getting worse. I think salt gets trapped under the deck edges above the beams and rots it from there. Fix for future longevity is probably to seam seal inside and outside of the beams after welding on new treadplate. The centers of the spans are still fine and even have some paint left, but from the edges in for 4-6" are scale and getting some holes.
Probably no gain in resale from someone who doesn't look up from underneath and see the daylight, repaired at all or not. The top looks great and it's still solid right now and probably for a while yet, but it needs it for my continued peace of mind. Since the top does still look juuuust fine, it's going to sneak up when it really does become an issue.
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send it!
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not till after we move.... still good for what it's for. 3 into 1 once there's a place to park what's needed.
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I have HF's needle scaler. Best money spent. Cheap too.
It's probably the only one my oil less air compressor (so loud I can hear it) can keep up with it.
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I bought the HF one for Keith when we did the long arms on my TJ, definitely an awesome investment. pretty sure I bought one for myself after that also.
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Thats pretty scary, Brett! Haha
You’re probably the 6th and 7th good things I’ve read about them. I’m already sold. Haven’t picked one up yet though
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this looks like something you might be interested in
http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/5163061463.html
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not a terrible price for a 1 year old trailer. would be nicer if it had tandem 10Ks with 19.5's and hydro brakes instead of tripple 7s
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Melted some marker light wiring again. Far rear marker shifted up, and its power shorted to the edge of the hole. Fixed again.
I want to run some plastic conduit the length of both sides for carrying the wires to eliminate short points even if wires do chafe through. I also want to switch to flush 3/4" grommet mount markers to eliminate that failure point.
Both of those changes are slated for re-deck time, along with welding shut any unneeded holes in the frame and reworking the inner fenders. I don't see a need to deck it any wider.
I'm looking for ideas on painting and rust cleanup for the project. I think I'm settled on a paint process for the final product (hplv spray some rustolium or implement black, w hardener) but:
- what can I do to clean up the existing structure? It has some rust showing through and needs some love. Tow it to someone, un-decked and stripped, and have it blasted? Same, but with the new decking installed, and just have them paint it too? I got a quote for $90/hr actual time for that work once. No idea how long it takes though.
- if I paint it, what best to do where the decking meets the frame? Paint the frame and decking first and then touch up after welding and pretend the interior is fine? Somehow even though it's pretty rotten now I don't have any rust jacking between deck and beams. I'd like to keep it that way. Maybe I don't even need to worry about it.
Also, is anyone aware of self etching primer by the gallon to spray? I've only seen that in spraybomb.
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Give chad a call there was a guy in Syracuse we went to once that has a big sand blasting and painting operation that paints a lot of the DOT plows and their low boy trailers. He had a combo for some crazy paint where he would actually warranty his work for a bunch of years. Might be worth having it done professionally if you want to keep the trailer really nice
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That may be the way to go. The place I called was in Syracuse. Wonder if it was the same. I don't remember the name.
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Not sure of their work, but there is one in Lyons too. DeLoka i believe is the name.
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Anyone you could ask around to feel out their value and quality of work?
I'm really leaning towards a solution at this point where I strip and replace the deck and drop it somewhere. It comes back pretty.
Bonus if they can work around wiring and brake lines but I could deal with replacing that later.
If I'm ambitious I'd pull the Ram flatbed and have it redone too. Rust under the powdercoat all over the place :(
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Deloka has a very good reputation. Classic car restorers use them. I've used them for the truck-side plow frame on the Sierra (six years ago now?) Exposure to all kinds of NY winter nasty and still looks good. I was going to take the plow blade to them but it's too far gone to care...
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The prices I received for sand blasting and painting cora's 16ft flatbed trailer were in the 1200 range. We were originally discussing having it done after stripping wood deck and removing all wiring and then re installing all new.
Final decision was cheaper and less time involved to sell the trailer and invest the money in a new purchase.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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This is what I like for running trailer lighting wires http://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-1-2-in-x-100-ft-Non-Metallic-LiquidtightConduit-6002-30-00/202286688 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cable-Systems-1-2-in-x-100-ft-Non-Metallic-LiquidtightConduit-6002-30-00/202286688)
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ouch! That's pretty insane, I can buy some fresh wire cups and a lot of beer and pizza for that price. But I can't do it when it's raining or snowing or cold :-\
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pull the deck off
strip the junk wiring
wire cup wheel it
paint the trailer and bottom of new deck. KSD can shear a stack of panels to size
weld
finish painting.
Spray the frame, and roll on the deck black rustollum.
could be done in a Saturday, and rewired Sunday.
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Not free until 12/5, unless kim and I only head up to her folks for one day on thanksgiving weekend.
Probably has to wait for spring unless warm weather lasts into december for some reason.
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Link to brakes you have?
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dexter actuator from etrailer
kodiak brand brakes, cheapest coating option since I'm not dunking it in saltwater (only driving in its spray)
http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/
etrailer sells them, they sell direct, eastern marine usually has great prices on things as well. sets vs piecemeal prices sometimes go either way.
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how do you choose 1000-1600psi?
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worth looking at the hydraulic drum? or just suck it up and do the disk?
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this looks like an oil bath hub? https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Kodiak/K2HR79.html
9/16" studs avail too
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Not sure if hyd drum is much better than electric drum? I just went all the way.
1000psi=drum 1600=disk.
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this looks like an oil bath hub? https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Kodiak/K2HR79.html
9/16" studs avail too
That does look threaded. Weird. Mine are not.
You can always just grease bearings even behind an oil bath cap. Mine are not though - and it seems odd for a 7k
Tapatalking in traffic
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ya not thinking the drum is worth braking up grade even with the 1K cheaper appeal.
i think the pics are messed up, if you look at "whats included" no mention of caps
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Bandaids applied!
Ought to tide me over to painting weather. Still want to get a wet media blaster for my pressure washer. The paint that's on there is actually pretty tenacious.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/ae1728583aec4b2d4b018ece173b063a.jpg)
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Ordered wire from wire barn for this thing last night. Picked out lights for an arie order, and ordered the ones that Peterson doesn't make.
Need to gather blasting place info to compare, and maybe just have them paint too?
Need to order decking.
I was thinking about widening it to 100-102" but I think Id rather replace than engineer that and cut a million 6" long ribs, and figure out how to remove the rub rail. If that food truck guy comes calling again though... low deck is super useful for that.
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Not to be blunt but why not just send it and start fresh? New ones are $6k. Nice used ones around for $4k. Steel + blasting + paint + time is going to close that gap quick.
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New don't have good brakes and 19.5s and drive over fenders and the sweet hitch.
Without redecking it is worth scrap price. Send it time was a year or 18 mos ago. Redeck and paint and I can send it for 5 - 6 with the upgrades it has, then spend 8 on something 102". If I keep a low boy around.
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Why not move everything to the new one. Build fenders. Seems a lot less work
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Because I don't get paid for my OT
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Get new/newer one like KingtheZJ suggested and transfer "good stuff" to it in an afternoon. Seem to be best for someone who don't have much time for wrenching and dealing/hassling with someone you have the work done for you. Less "last minuting", more time for racing and wheeling.
Or just rewire and redeck where needed, wire wheel loose paint rust off and repaint it every spring just to keep it presentable and call it good enough?
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I wish I had as much money as you guys think I do.
Big difference between spending a grand on making this good again and scrapping it while spending 6 to replace it regardless of how much time I don't have.
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Folks seem to forget that salary workers are actually fixed income. 😉
At some point though you need to make sure you aren't throwing good money at bad money. Based on my "guy in the corner" status I think you need to take one more shot at getting it usable for you then plan to dump it and maybe live with a downsize. I know that cuts into some of the extracurricular activities but then you might have some time back to work on the other things.
Just my 2/100ths. Feel free to flip me the bird and move on. Got adult kids now. I'm used to it.
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MikeMike I truly hope your work's situation will improve ASAP. I did understood your point regards cost more to get new one and send the old one but our recommendations were what we think is best use of your time.
My offer is still on the table, I will help you to get old decks off, install new decking. IMHO best time and cost efficient will be to use power washer with blasting kit to strip it, repaint with POR-15 or Cassis Saver then top coat. Pretty sure one gallon of POR-15 will cover whole trailer 2-3 coats.
I'm 99% sure there's a spot at my place to power wash blast the trailer to not worry about the mess it'll leave behind.
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have the decking you want sheared at KSD to width
4-5 guys on a saturday could strip decking, knot wheel, weld, and paint in a Saturday
you could have it wired sunday.
do it in my lot if you want- Matt and I could help along with Brett, im sure a few others that have used the trailer.
just need to plan and execute.
i wouldnt bother with POR and top coat. mop on some black rustoleum and call it good for another 5 years.
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Well said Smike. Paint choice is entirely up to MikeMike. Although POR-15 or Chassis Saver will make it to look good much much longer, mainly because it's hard to stop rust completely with ordinary paint. It will keep the new deck from rot on bottom for sure.
My POR-15'd D80 in the dodge still look perfect after 3 winters and over 50k miles.
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I was thinking roll rustolium or spray thinned rustolium, either with enamel hardener added. Would be nice to find roll on etching primer.
Was also thinking shortcut to just needle scale and wire wheel rust and paint over existing paint.
Agreed it's a weekend or three day job especially w some help. It shouldn't really be THAT bad.
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i like the rustoleum, it bonds to rust, mud, oily steel much better where POR will just flake and peel. the level of prep (and huge material cost) to get a functional POR coating is not practical for a trailer in my opinion.
spraying underside will speed process, while rolling top side and flat surfaces will speed there.
i would guess 2+ gallons to do that trailer also.
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Me too. Lots of surfaces.
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sandblast
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Winch dead. It clicks only. Will test with charger hooked up. Maybe the battery is just shot and I had super low voltage. Brakes were good though. Hmm.
Gotta do the deck, I’m tired of bridging rot with 2x6s, it’s a little embarrassing. I think complete usage has been achieved. Ordering steel Monday, and probably call around for blasting options and maybe paint too depending on price. Probably start stripping this weekend. I’m sure it’ll take a full day plus to completely strip decking wiring lights brakes and winch. Even if it doesn’t I’ve got more than plenty else to do.
Might go to Attica and scare jeeps Sunday?
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I got a guy. Perhaps this could be a maint charge?
Buying this round of fall cars
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Make an intro Monday? Or just shoot me contact info...
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great chingrish on an amazon ad for a solar battery maintainer that I'm about to buy (5w for $20, hoping to wire it in and hopefully make trailer batteries last a lil longer):
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Portable-Battery-Charger-Batteries/dp/B015ZGDYII/ref=sr_1_3
I'm not sure why you posted that on dumb cl thread. Anyway, I was reading through HF's wireless winch remote reviews and one reviewer said the controller is a parasite draw to the battery. For the time being I'll just disconnect the battery when not in use. I'll add a small switch to the solenoid box to cut off power to the controller to keep it from killing the battery while sitting for extended period of time and to avoid accident winch operation. My multimeter is dead so I can't just check the amp draw right now to confirm.
Other option is to do like what I did when I installed my battery box. I put the quick disconnect 'harness' to the battery for my battery trickle/maintainer charger (cost like $20 from TSC, work GREAT).
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This is the battery maintainer I have. The 'harness' can be seen on top of it in the pic.
(https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/1030951?$300$)
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/schumacher-6-12v-battery-maintainer-15a?cm_mmc%3DSEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSCCirc1718TSExtAd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImqnW78vS1wIVlNlkCh1RSw2ZEAAYAiAAEgLZn_D_BwE
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I'm not sure why you posted that on dumb cl thread.
because it was a seller looking stupid, that's all.
My winch is only connected when in use, the reason for swapping cables back and forth is that my previous brake pump warned of voltage spikes from winch operation being a potential killer, so it gets swapped back and forth. I do wonder if the brake controller is a tiny parasitic draw, I have not checked. It sits for long periods disconnected and I seem to kill a battery per year on it, so this would be an easy addition while not requiring anything to be plugged in while parked. If it works well I'll make it a standard feature on anything with a house battery (popup if I keep it, real battery on the enclosed for at least lights while parked and disconnected even if I never outfit the damn thing)
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Trailer decking was just moved to immediate importance. Going to try to do it today and tomorrow. Klein has ignored my electronic communications, I’m going up to order steel in person as soon as I finish breakfast.
Probably just chip bad rust patch with rustolium given timelines.
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need help? couple guys could make quick work.
get klein to shear down 8 or 10' sheets to strips as wide as the deck?
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Yes, of course.
Just picked out paint. Going to strip and chip and donframe paint today. Hoping I can paint back of decking pre install. Will advise....
Going to rewire from underneath later I guess. Unless I’m left without things to do due to materials at some point.
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I owe you (M4wdFab) and I'll like to haul Commando and brolite to storage for you. Also, mr.mindless keep me in the loop and I'll try my best to be one of those 'couple guys' on the re-deck job.
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Picking up paint now, picking up steel at 1400.
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pull your battery and hydro pump, flip the bitch over !
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Picking up paint now, picking up steel at 1400.
take pics of your progress! Or at least before/after.
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we also had pretty good luck lifting matts enclosed 4' in the air with two cherry pickers in back and the goose still hooked to the truck, blocked.
im not saying it was the safest thing, yours is probably lighter and less sketchy to do that to haha.
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Oh god that sounds sketch. Hah.
I should not need to lift now. Maybe for wiring.
This is the area that forces the issue:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/121ab8830c8d0be3d7fc110dd6194194.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/e8da69739c94e0068205d40959781b53.jpg)
Overall:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/af73b3ac3df02984defbd3d4aa9717d4.jpg)
Brett, my brolite is ready to go any time if you’re able to move them.
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boo hiss!
lets fix those inner fender tire cutters well at it also!
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at least it looks like you dont have 50' of weld to cut though, only about 10 :o
welcome to do it in my lot if you want
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Going to use the 4†drop from the 48†width for those. (Treads are 20â€)
Can I borrow your welder extension cord?
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ya
er 8" drop should work cool.
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Yeah that’s what I said ;)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/5161e5e0adefd30cb20eaf5e414cbab2.jpg)
I’ll move these posts into the lowboy thread later...
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machine!
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Moved for you, almost correctly.
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Gross.
I'll swing by to pick it up? Do it need to be stored indoor immediately?
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Good days work today. Bottom of new steel primed. Wish tomorrow was warmer but it’ll have to do. Got about 2/3 of decking stripped.
Plan to paint bottom, finish stripping deck, needle scale and quick roll paint, install decking.
Worry about new lights and rewiring and top side/outside paint later. This weekend is kinda busy but maybe.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/64704a5e14f2c9b1f26ccae8d97c88c6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/16e1e7f8d8bd030175f7b0eab4bf5628.jpg)
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im going to say it again... your neighbors must love you
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No paint yet. Welds 96-98% cleaned up. Inner frame 50% needle scaled. Back pain. Hangry. Lunch.
Lotsa neighborhator today with hours of needle scaler and grinder and compressor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/cd6d5f000054e370a9c48ef6911fa5bd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/fae28d2f554121c33e42a341b7600da6.jpg)
Be a late night but should be able to finish loud work before dark, paint, at least place deck if not weld.
Meeting not looking good. Good for election. Ciest la vie
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Insides and undersides all scaled and sprayed. First time with the HF HPLV gun. Once I figured out what was lose and sucking air instead of paint it laid nice. 4:1 black and acetone plus 2oz hardener per mixed quart. Have about 1.25 gal left. Will need more gardener and acetone before painting the rest but I see no reason to farm it out at this point.
Hopefully 35F is close enough to 50F. (Temp when I finished painting and recommended min temp). I don’t care about finish. Hopefully it cures right. The gardener is supposed to reduce dry time so I’m hoping that helped. I’ll need to trim the tails a bit. I think I can weld it all as I back it in next to the garage. Would rather it be blocked level as I weld but I’m sure it’ll be fine. No matter what I do it’ll be better than the brolite.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171129/3f4a31dc63383e2085f4768fcd1a53b9.jpg)
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Didn’t quite get it done. Between 2&4 more hours of welding to do. Everything placed and tacked. Not quite trailerable yet but only a foot or two of bead and it will be. Going to be close on gas and wire both, I think. May visit m4 to wrap up if I kick consumables so I can be ready ASAP to pick up that tractor when it’s done.
I did a test secton on the goose uprights with paint over needled rust, I don’t think I like the inconsistency between coating over rust and good paint. Might get the top side blasted. Or might see how bad wire wheeling would be - not sure if anything but sand would get a consistent finish texture though.
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Looks really good. What about using a brush on hammered paint to get some texture in the paint to help hide stuff?
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I'd rather just roll or spray plain enamel with hardener. I'd also prefer a semigloss, but they didn't have any in gallons when I was shopping. I'll see how I feel about that once it's set up too.
I'll probably do a quickie top coat on the decking as soon as it's warm again too since I'll be towing in salt in the winter...
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huge improvement already, keep it up
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HF sells the reflector tape if you didn't know already. not DOT but reasonable$$ for something always way over priced.
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it was on my Peterson list, didn't check the box for it yet. have all new wires, heat shrink connectors, lights.
don't have great options for wiring and brake lines that run down the right side. I got large stainless band clamps, was thinking about just welding them through the bolt hole but I figure I wouldn't get it painted well enough and they'd rot off quickly. so I was thinking of drilling/tapping frame or welding 1/4" bolts inside. all options seem like a lot of work, and more work now that decking is welded in. I'll figure it out somehow. Saturday project hopefully.
I do think I'll drill/tap the frame for light mounting with stainless screws - not as critical now since they will be wired ground instead of mounting-grounded but I'd like them to be removable for paint. Need to hit fastenal for that.
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oh - I think I used that HF tape on Gus for corner reflectors, and the red is faded to white.
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Welding the drizzle is ok. Welding in outright rain is no good.
That’s all.
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I learned years ago that welding while kneeling in a water puddle is no good. To a human, to clarify.
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I got no zaps. Just too wet for MIG, water flow seemed to be contaminating, very splattery.
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i was very pleased to find out an XJ with no axles on the back of the 49 just squeezes into the shop and can be picked up by the lift!
shortened my expectation of a cluster fuck transferring to chassis table in the rain then rolling into shop
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Daily bs: achieved! ;)
Welding before going in to work. See what I can do in 3hr. Hope to be either finished or on a supply run.
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Changing out of work clothes and into work clothes, grabbing the Lib key and some welding wire omw to the office for a drastically understaffed day!
One is taking the afternoon so I took a partial morning. Welding 97% done. I have 80†of bead left to run on 4 decking seams. Could run it as-is if necessary but I’d rather make the runners solid front to back.
I think what I thought was rain issues last night was some poor prep. Paint on the rail under the plate coming out and contaminating. I had to grind a couple back, particularly when I didn’t run relatively exaggerated circles.
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I have never worked on projects for a couple hours before coming to work. I don't like this.
I want to smell the sweet scent of CO2/Argon and steel. Now.
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Inner fenders done last night. Shit welds, too much wind and not clean enough on the fender side.
Slight bend over the axles on both sides. Guess I should chock the rear once in a while when loading heavy.
Weather doesn’t look like I’ll get to paint the top side this fall, I think we’re out of warmth. I think I’ll redo the marker lights only and call it done till spring.
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Paint it while in Johnson Valley
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not the worst idea I've ever heard. but I don't think so :)
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Tired of working on this thing. Almost done. Lights and wiring 2x the work decking was. As expected.
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bo hiss!
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Fucker is finally done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171231/927cbe0939204e8bb7f8e80fa934675a.jpg)
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brake pads ordered, they're thin.
16 of 32 studs swapped out. Super easy as long as the ones being removed don't fall inside the rotor hat. fishing for them requires way too much patience.
needs hubs greased and air checked.
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If it’s not in this thread where the hell did I post about which calipers were shitty? Damnit.
Smike just texted me that one vacated. I was hoping it was one with a bad seal and rusty piston.
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Winch apparently dead. Solenoid pack clicks. Voltage goes places. Didn’t look up a circuit diagram, just put 30’ of 5/16 chain together and pulled the trucks up the long ramps with the seller’s powerstroke.
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Letter from the town on this waiting in the mailbox when I got home. Really ruined my mood for the evening. Johnny law is piling on me, ready to just fuck it all and watch tv as a hobby.
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so stupid! fuck those moron neighbors
my neighbor just let me know his neighbor is selling in the spring. 3 acers and house with 2.5 garage across from my shop. i plan to discuss with him and buy before its on market. dont care what it is. zillow says 130 so def in range.
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They have an issue with your trailer?
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ready to just fuck it all and watch tv as a hobby.
I had one of those moments the other day...
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my neighbor just let me know his neighbor is selling in the spring. 3 acers and house with 2.5 garage across from my shop. i plan to discuss with him and buy before its on market. dont care what it is. zillow says 130 so def in range.
patience pays off.. that's a score
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my neighbor just let me know his neighbor is selling in the spring. 3 acers and house with 2.5 garage across from my shop. i plan to discuss with him and buy before its on market. dont care what it is. zillow says 130 so def in range.
that's excellent news! 130 for 3acre sounds really cheap.
I'll pull up the regs again but IIRC it's too long for storage in residential district. letter was about "accessory use" not allowed. you know, things that you do other than live at a house. They're accessory uses.
fucking city, mind your business and let ME be on MY lawn.
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I would find out who is the town code person, and get to know him on a first name basis and have a few phone calls or invite him to the property when you are there. This was very helpful in my situation.
you would be surprised on how responsive they are to people with common sense and manors as opposed to the assholes they deal with daily.
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I got a nice response when I responded to the Eagle complaint.
No point in having a guest when I've got 2 parts cars in the driveway.
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You live in Brighton....
Town code says you can't have anything longer than 24' in your driveway. Also you're not allowed to park on the lawn...
There's a fire chief who lives near my parents who has a car parked on the front law... Bothers me every time I drive by it... Don't know if it's double standard or no one has reported it...
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Doesn’t make me any less angry after being fine for ten years.
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You live in Brighton....
Town code says you can't have anything longer than 24' in your driveway. Also you're not allowed to park on the lawn...
There's a fire chief who lives near my parents who has a car parked on the front law... Bothers me every time I drive by it... Don't know if it's double standard or no one has reported it...
report it if you're going to be "that guy"
I sent my neighbor a letter to stop rutting out their driveway by the sidewalk..
guy has a lifted JK with 24" rims..
if anybody on my street deserves an obstacle to get in the driveway its me..
whole neighborhood talks about him..
whole neighborhood talks about me for other reasons.
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I'm not "that guy", justbugs me that a fire chief would not follow town code..
I do all I can to follow the town code..
I agree it doesn't make it any less annoying when someone is "that guy"
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Send me the info. I’ll be that guy ;)
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Engraved-VIN-Plate-Dorsey-Fruehauf-Great-Dane-Hyundai-Kaufman-Load-Rite/182723840759?hash=item2a8b308af7:g:kAoAAOSwmCVY-sGL
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-BLANK-TRAILER-ID-DATA-PLATE-VIN-NUMBER-DATA-TAG-NAMEPLATE/152804985323?hash=item2393e309eb:g:5LYAAOSwiDFYQizw
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Literally dreamed of another DOT check this morning (I was admiring deep drifts of snow around a pair of e250s on the trailer while at a rest area. I'd left the passenger door open, and as I was about to leave and was walking around to shut the door and take off, DOT walked up...)
So I woke up thinking about a 12k tag, and adding up to under 26. doesn't solve any of the commercial compliance stuff, but completely simplifies everything when on my own, and avoids IFTA reporting when commercial.
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Retag trailer as 12k?
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Skies opened up before I had a chance to pull the winch but trailer is at m4. Full continuity test completed on winch solenoid, one Buss bar was no good. Fixed that and it did NOT fix the winch. Now passes all continuity externally. Didn’t get to verifying voltages (and thereby solenoids) but I still suspect dead winch motor. Solenoids click healthy both directions.
Left the wireless remote in the key drop just in case it fixes itself and becomes useful.
Maybe while I type it’ll stop raining. Not looking good for that.
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replacement vin tag ordered.
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Some fucking tweaker piece of shit stole my ramps. Just noticed my ramp holders were in backwards walking the dog just now. Fuck Brighton! Surprised they didn’t steal chain from my chain basket too.
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no bueno >:(
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Stole right out of your yard?
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Carter St. lot
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/d4e33b97fa8a05cb7a205260f1f7a0d2.jpg)
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Nice!
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plan to grab from carter this afternoon.
where is the remote for the winch?
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Been in touch w arie to confirm its unloaded and outside?
Winch is still dead per recent texts, unless somebody else fixed. My temp ramps should be with it.
Remote is in my ram.
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Arie will unload at 330...
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i had clicky now no clicky. inside relay box does not appear burned or any magic smoke loss.
arie is a machine on a forklift with the rear of a gooseneck in motion :)
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Solid clicks and no goes has been my result since initial failure. Cleaned and tightened bus bars, no improvement.
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both the 9K and 12K are on sale this week
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hmm seems cheaper than HF. they have a few other winch options also
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-wireless-control-with-big-emitter-117230799--1?cm_vc=-10005
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20% (or 25%) off coupon work on winches.
I bought the 9k winch for like $260 OTD with the July 4th 25% off coupon.
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Solid clicks and no goes has been my result since initial failure. Cleaned and tightened bus bars, no improvement.
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Have you checked the ground bolt on bottom of the motor? It came loose on my trailer's winch and did similar.
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just got as far as continuity (incl ground), not voltage drop.
still expect I just need to get new or repair motor. that alternator place is where I've been planning to go.
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same result at first with a new 9K winch installed. wiggled POS pos connection since i had already changed and cleaned negative frame connection and went from clicky and no go to clicky and go.
did not reinstall since i had already stowed old winch in the green monster.
had to use my truck to bend back my ramps to fit into your slightly smaller stake pockets on the trailer but worked well.
tools and supplies prepared for full cluster this trip as i haven't had one in a while and am due.
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Good luck! Sorry for the additional necessary prep.
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interested in a new winch for this unit? 300$ installed?
if not we can swap back yours to trouble shoot only 5 bolts easy. I have to remount one of your cube lights too that i needed to disconnect for van bumper clearance.
I should be around most of this weekend. tuning 5.3 Saturday with John at shop also.
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Looking reasonable to not work this weekend, maybe I can get that bolt swapped and trans leak fixed from a month ago and shuffle the car over.
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Ramp steel bought. That was a ~$250 theft, plus labor. Boo hiss.
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Finally
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181015/c2e1bd49e0a7175c999bb46819cff8b1.jpg)
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Need to adjust one of the ramp holders. Front stop is too low on passenger side. So ramps are done but now trailer isn’t.
Wind sucks for welding weather.
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Shame it didn’t get a paint job but it’s ready for service. Bleh.
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I have a sprinter that can test it
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Still waiting for details :)
To Boston MA tomorrow night, back weds evening.
Then maybe plan to go visit Joe and investigate pulling a radiator and seeing about what I can do to freshen any cracked or crusty things I find plumbing-wise. No other plans till wheeling nov 3
Would probably be nice to see if I can gets done heat out of it for that trip...
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its a driver (runner).. at UCI buffalo.. need brought to Carter..
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let me know what you want me to do to make this right ::)
sheet of ice shifted and pulled out the brake away cable. open trailer. smoked a good flat on at least one of the front newer tires. 2 quick looks didnt find any other damage but needs another look over. if it were mine id like what ever damaged to be replaced. happen supper quick nothing i could do to pull over safely faster.
trade the winch or i can order new Gs that i run on my trailer depending on whats up.
bah!
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What a shit luck.
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ya happens when you borrow things, differed rental maintenance program lol
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that sucks, stupid ice.
depends how bad the flat spot is/are. Empty trailer, it might be ignorable if lucky. I'm not super worried or hurried. I've owed you long enough for that winch as it is
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meh still annoying!
was quite the surprise to hear my truck wind out to full boost and full load at 70 like a house just got dropped on it up hill..... then look back to black locked smoke show. :o
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LOL
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Just replaced the wiring pigtail. Plug end was trashed and they always seem to rot out so I got a molded plug.
Much to my surprise the wiring colors were fucking random. Aside from green and yellow not being either signal, red not being backup, and brown not being lights at any rate. Black white blue were at least what they were supposed to be.
Red was a signal, yellow was backup, that’s all I remember.
Stupid china.
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I feel your pain. I dealt with that color identifying problems few times now.
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and hear i was thinking i was cool
yeLLow has L in it for LEFT
gReen as R in it for RIGHT
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And 5 letters each in green and right.
When green is right. Which on the trailer it isn’t and on the pig trail it’s not.
Bunch of feedback on the Amazon about mismatched colors, now that I read reviews.
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whats the plan with the winch. id like to get mine back or ill get a knew one for my equipment trailer. im half temped your old winch is fine.
i owe you for two flat spotted trailer tires
i put a winch on your trailer
i never got paid for a chevy 205
let me know how to resolve
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smittybuilt 9500 is 290 to my door amazon. the one i put on your trailer is HF unit no? looks like 320 plus tax minus coupon.
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Brett traded me a winch of some sort a month or so ago. it's in Joe, but not buried. Assuming it's both good and good enough (8k Smitty, maybe?), that make us square? Didn't realize I was sitting on that, sorry!
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im already in the hole for a bad 5.3 from brett and storing a lift gate i guess so ill pass (sorry brett) ::)
id rather get my new and know good winch back, 100$ for the 205 or the 205 returned since matt needs one and mount you two used 19.5s from my Ram i have saved for you when needed. but im in no hurry as usual.
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i know your tied up with home stuff i can always grab the trailer sometime and swap junk around for you
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Shit’s all seriously parked in. Not likely to change organically until I’m clearing the driveway for photos/showing.
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ok no worries, carry on.
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I think I just did my last major painting. Probably get joe home again for a few more things loaded out but that organic moving of things may come soonish. Within a couple weeks I figure.
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I love reading all this.
Reinforces my decision that I’m never moving and it will be my kids problem to clean out the house and garage when I’m too old.. ::)
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i plan to never move, from my barn. i could clear my house out in 3-4 hours. really trying to keep it clean and simple.
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I love reading all this.
Reinforces my decision that I’m never moving and it will be my kids problem to clean out the house and garage when I’m too old.. ::)
Amen
I should have done a lot of this years ago on a slower schedule.
And the place still needs siding and at least a few windows
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Moving sux
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I've been taking a box/week to Good Will since Abigail moved in 2 years ago. There's always more stuff to go somehow.
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we're working on getting rid of a lot of stuff too..
sasha found a group on fb called buy nothing, just post stuff and someone comes to get it, she's had a bunch of sucess with that, just kind of slow going. we also have a pile for goodwill or such, just have to take it...
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I don't really want people looking for free stuff coming to my house lol.
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true enough..
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Straightened, cleaned, welded and ground. Still need to plate the inside and squirt some paint on it.
Could run as-is short term. Nice.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/93a7d5566526858a30158477289a7784.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/c41875cb1bced384ced4a50babe5d33f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/57dbab613ef01b3468dc83608f8b7547.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/e7c768d0d74d5c433aed468d2d0f2ae9.jpg)
Top of the webbing and the deck was keeping it together. Inner rail fine. Other side fine.
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I'm glad you caught it before it folds! :o
Wires been like that? gonna secure it up after the repair?
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maximum slack for work clearance
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It is nice to have all the right tools(lift & forklift) to make the job easy!
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It sure is!
Job’s done.
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Tested.
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Brake job time. Nick is grabbing a couple 4runner trucks with it. He got it home and it had no brakes.
one caliper must have siezed. wore rotor down to nothing, spit pads, spit piston.
I had brakes coming back from Maine a month ago. Had to have been very recent.
I knew it was due but did not realize it was that far into and past due.
found a cross-reference to GM car brake parts that Kodiak published.
Last time brakes were touched was caliper loss in April 2018.
It got pads before it went to Hammers the first time IIRC but I didn't see a receipt for that.
I bought pads January 2018 - so maybe it got them before its second Hammers. I think that's when I pulled it out there.
I lost 2 calipers summer of 2015. Then I safety wired them and it's been mostly good since.
replaced the actuator in April 2015.
those brakes have been on there since October 2013.
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Ordered a ton of the cheapest GM caliper off Rock. Wholesaler closeout for loaded left calipers. I have to run them upside down so I don’t care right/left.
8 of them and one new hub.
Chatting with Brett about maybe flipping U bolts for clearance, particularly if the GM calipers cause any extra clearance issues.
What Nick found:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201210/61a8b93f8c391258a72a25ab5b22d613.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201210/14be0d61794b79db91918b8bafb7f920.jpeg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201210/6a8bee2e4429c85fb4261c75aace465b.jpeg)
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ouch!
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I need to be better at PM
I certainly don’t have much of an excuse anymore.
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at least you can work on it in the air now
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All good for the trip.
Parts on the way.
Battery swapped for another new Interstate blem under warranty at 5 months old. It failed at three months.
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Finally pulled in for fix on this brake issue and a once-over. Hasn’t been getting much use at all, but needed for a buffalo area fetch.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221214/af5883e110a4fcf13fc6c1b4d29b5811.jpg)
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nice!
i just ordered more 19.5 wheels for my equipment trailer and it will get some new deck boards in the spring to be back to 100%